Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Another big mowing run this week.

Two weeks ago, I was mowing Kikuyu lawns after 60mm of rain and steamy humid conditions. After that massive soaking and another 6mm this week, I'm back doing those same lawns under the same conditions. The amount of grass I took off was the most for this season! It's hard on the body, hard on the machinery.





The ProCut has been working ****** hard this month. It was last serviced in October 2025 before the season really took off, so between these two marathons I decided to do a little maintenance. These engines never really burn oil between changes, even when running hard and hot, however the oil drained out pretty dark this time. Fresh oil, a new plug and a set of blades and it's cutting nice and clean again.

With rainy days and a big mowing run this week, combined with puppy carrying duties, the Ranger was genuinely dirty and in need of a wash.

The tyres were cleaned with Optimum Power Wheel & Tire Clean, finishing the bottle of this excellent product. The wheels were cleaned with KCx Active Foam, which I also used as a pre-clean on the lowers and tray sides. The contact wash was done with Koch Chemie GSF, dosed using my new Pressol squeeze bottles...................pure bliss.









I know gushing over a plastic bottle might seem ridiculous, but trust me, the images above represent a sense of achievement and satisfaction. Again, many thanks to my fellow forum friends for making this happen.

After the wash and a hit with the EGO, I decided it was time to top off the protection with a layer of ADS Ceramic Spray Sealant, another fantastic product.



From there, the door jambs were wiped with ADS Adapt, the tray sides with Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine, interior cleaned with ADS Pilot, glass with P&S True Vue, wheels wiped with ADS Amplify and OG Tire Dressing for the rubber.

Being such a lovely Autumn day, I thought it was about time to get the XR8 out of the garage for some exercise. Probably not smart to be out burning through 98-ron with limited supply and ever rising prices, currently $2.70 per litre where I am, diesel is just under $3.00 per litre. But...................the half a tank in this car will last me several months. And what do you do, save for a rainy day that may not come, or just enjoy now and see what happens?

Well, I caved to fuel anxiety situation like the rest of the population, both Mustang and XR8 have a full tank of 98-ron.

I don’t normally fill the tank on these cars, always $50 worth when required. Because they sit around so much, I’d rather have fresh fuel more often than have a full tank go stale. Well, who knows how this is going to pan out, so I’ve rolled the dice.

Mustang – 37.6-litres @ 2.699 per litre = $101.50
XR8 – 44.9-litres @ 2.699 per litre = $121.19
Total – 82.5-litres = $222.67

I can’t remember the last time the XR8 had a full tank, probably since it was new. Got to laugh though, a full tank only gives an estimated range of 392km’s from a 68-litre tank at 20.2 L/100km. Mustang’s range is even worse, 346km’s from a 61-litre tank at 18.4 L/100km.







Please note that I’m not complaining here, just showing the reality of the current situation when it comes to enthusiast cars with thirsty V8 engines. If these were daily drivers, it would be a different story.

I also generally just put $50 worth of fuel in my '66 Mustang for the same reason. And no ethanol. No fancy distance to empty function in mine but I get very similar mileage from about 400 hp/300 kw of dinosaur Ford Windsor.

With both a full EV and a plug in hybrid occupying the rest of the garage, we're not too fussed about the present dramas.

Four Koch Chemie solvents that all do basically the same thing, but at varying degrees of aggression.



Fleckenwasser (FW) –
An organic based solvent for safe removal of greasy substances including oil, tar and waxes, even paint and ink residue.
https://autobuff.com.au/products/koch-chemie-fleckenwasser-stain-wax-remover

Teerwasche A (TEA) –
Well done if you managed to pronounce this mouthful, probably why it gets abbreviated for TEA. This next step up is a solvent based product that will dissolve oily and sticky substances in quick fashion. Again, think tar and sap residue, but it can also strip road film and adhesive. A nice middle ground.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collection...al-tar-bitumen-remover?variant=42078975950937

Eulex (EU) –
The Sledgehammer! A super powerful solvent, reach for Eulex when all else has failed. Think heavily contaminated surfaces, thick tar deposits and heavy-duty adhesive removal. Use with caution, be that yourself or the vehicle.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collection...emie-eulex-powerful-adhesive-stain-remover-1l

Eulex M (EUM) –
Another powerful solvent used in the same situations as Eulex, however this version is specially suited to satin and matte surfaces that can be damaged by solvents.
https://autobuff.com.au/products/koch-chemie-eulex-m-eum-glue-tar-remover

Out of curiosity, today I did a little digging into Stihl serial numbers, namely the that of my 028 AV Super.



In 1981, Stihl went to an 8-digit serial number system, confusingly this also included a 9th digit that was for internal use. This 9th digit was used at the start of the number sequence and denoted country of manufacture.

1 = Germany
2 = USA
3 = Brazil
4 = Austria
5 = USA
8 = China

So, going off the number stamped on my 028 - 415462376

Country of Manufacture - 4 (Austria)
Serial Number - 15462376



But what does the X mean, something I've wondered about for several years. Well, it's another one of those "makes perfect sense to the Germans" situation.

A large X prior to the serial number means to disregard the first digit as it was simply used to denote the country of manufacture. So, if a dealer was looking up the serial number during service or to order parts, they were to start via the second number of the serial number. Got that?

A small x after the serial number denotes the machine was inspected during or after the assembly process. This usually meant the saw was pressure/vac tested for leaks, test ran, or if other defects were found.

And thus concludes today's session on completely useless trivia relating to OPE.

Standing on those big Brembo's...............

I can hardly believe it, but the Ranger turned 10-years old back in January, although I didn’t take delivery till April 2016. I remember the day I placed the order because I happened to also ask about the Mustang, which at the time was at least a 12-month wait. I signed the contract for the Ranger……………….then went back in afternoon and placed an order for a Race Red Mustang GT manual with no options, the cheapest V8 Mustang you could buy. Two cars in one day.

Right off the showroom floor, April 11th 2016 –



The first job…………………..



In 10-years, this vehicle has been my daily driver of varying duties. For 8 of those years, it would transport me to and from the nursery at least 4 days per week. In a pinch, sometimes I’d use it for deliveries as well. For the remaining 3 days, it would be moving me from job to job with a mower and garden tools in the tray. If I had to go anywhere far, I’d take the Ranger so that I didn’t have to stress about one of my nice cars. Yes, I’m well aware how ridiculous that is, but I’m not the only one who thinks (suffers) like this. No way I could ever attempt that in my old PK Ranger, that thing was so uncomfortable, be that the brutal ride quality or the rock-hard bench seat.

This Ranger is not perfect though and has had a few hits along the way. The first was when I reversed into a power pole trying to squeeze into a park in Melbourne. The steel tray barely registered the hit, a testament to the rock-solid build quality of that locally made tray. I once put a massive dint in the C-pillar after levering a bamboo pole that got stuck in the window protector, thankfully my PDR guy managed to remove dent despite the tight confines between the tray and body panel. Then while parked at work, some fool didn’t apply the handbrake and allowed her car to roll into the drivers door. Because of the low speed, no paint was exchanged and you can only see the barest imperfection in certain light, not worth the insurance claim.



In 10 years, very little has gone wrong or needed attention. It had a Field Service Campaign for the exhaust heat shield recall, not that I was at risk as I never drove it off road. The lower fan shield needed replacement as it wasn’t seating properly and rattled. I replaced the wheels and tyres at the start of 2024, mainly as an appearance upgrade, but I also discovered the factory original tyres were dry rotted. The Michelin Agilis were a significant upgrade over the crappy Dunlop’s. The most annoying issue happens every 6 months, the screen, audio and Bluetooth will completely lock up and require a hard reset via a battery disconnect. Apart from that, it's had a battery, two sets of wiper blades and a new rubber mat in the tray.



Even though its only done just over 47,000 km since new, the 10-year mark in the service book is a big one. Ordinarily, the service schedule alternates between an A and B service, the later includes additional inspections as well as fuel and air filter replacement. The last service was a B, so in theory today was an oil and filter change, and brake/clutch fluid as well (every two years). However, the book recommends coolant, gearbox and diff fluid replacement at 10-years. You could argue that the lack of milage would negate the need to do all that, and even the mechanic said it probably wasn’t needed. And I nearly went with that advice, however after asking a fellow forum member, the consensus being that fluid is cheap, I drive the thing HARD because it’s so ****** gutless, and I want this vehicle to last because of how overpriced Ranger’s have become since I was last in the market.

Just like the XR6 service a few weeks ago, I went ahead and purchased the parts and fluids myself. Apart from the fact I enjoy this aspect of servicing, I then know what’s in the car. I feel like I have a trusted mechanic now, so I just hand it over and let the experts do it for me. The Ranger is the car I don’t stress handing over, if this was one of the Falcon’s or Mustang, I’d be on edge for days……………..welcome to my world.



Even with shipping, those Motorcraft parts and fluids were cheaper than aftermarket. Finding the correct fluid for the Getrag MT82 gearbox proved to be a little difficult, of which the Castrol option was quite expensive. In the end, the Motorcraft was cheaper, and if you take a look at the bottle shape, its clearly made by Castrol anyway. For the amount of work that was done, that’s a pretty decent price.



Ready for another 10-years.

That doesn't seem too bad for a service that extensive.

Geoff289 said:

That doesn't seem too bad for a service that extensive.

Click to expand...

nope - last one we had done (full service) on a 2010 Ford Focus was £275 and that was engine oil change only, none of the other fluids

While I waited for the Ranger to be ready, the XR8 got a wash.

My favourite wheels to clean! Simple design, plenty of room for brushes. In this case, they were cleaned with Active Foam, tyres with Brake Buster. Some Hydr02 followed, then Atom Mac for the rotors.



For today's wash. I decided to go rinse-less, on this occasion the ever-reliable ONR. My process of late has been the following -

1. Rinse the car first, I had the pressure washer out for the wheels, so why not.

2. Pre-spray the whole vehicle at 128:1, which helps account for standing water after the rinse.

3. Wash using multiple Eagle Edgeless 500 towels at a 256:1 dilution. I do the whole car at once and dry at the end, I find this more efficient.

4. Use the EGO blower to blast trapped water/rinse-less solution from the grills, panel gaps, badges ect. Wheels are also dried at this step.

5. Dry using two Microfiber Madness Chip Mounk Jr. towels and ADS Amplify. Any ONR polymer spots that happened to dry are easily removed at this step.

6. Dry the door jambs, again with Amplify.

7. Hood up, the engine bay gets a general wipe down, drying off any pooled water while at it.

8. Go over the glass with Carpro Eraser.

9. A quick wipe of the wheels and exhaust tips with Amplify.

10. Apply OG Tire Dressing.

The interior only needed a vacuum of the driver's floor mat, otherwise job done!





I was going to keep the XR8 out for the weekend, but **** weather has been forecast, so back under the cover it goes.

Another thread regarding rinse-less washing got me curious about products you can use to "pre-treat" or pre-soak dirt and grime, and lift if off During the winter months our vehicles are trashed by salt and general filth. I feel bad not being able to use my pressure washer (I only have a gas pressure washer, and wash vehicles in a heated garage), and curious if any product lend themselves well to being applied using a pump sprayer.

Look back in this thread for Bilt Hamber Touchless

touchless in a foam cannon works wonders for pre treating a vehicle. It's one of those products that I tried after seeing used here so much and was thoroughly impressed with the results.

jonshonda said:

Another thread regarding rinse-less washing got me curious about products you can use to "pre-treat" or pre-soak dirt and grime, and lift if off During the winter months our vehicles are trashed by salt and general filth. I feel bad not being able to use my pressure washer (I only have a gas pressure washer, and wash vehicles in a heated garage), and curious if any product lend themselves well to being applied using a pump sprayer.

Click to expand...

While I can talk about rinse-less wash products and procedure, I'm probably not the right person to ask on this one. I've never dealt with snow and salted roads, and my rinse-less threshold is extremely low. Once a vehicle has become dirtier than some dust and perhaps a few bugs, I'm going with a traditional soap and water wash. But that's just me and I realize not everyone has access to water and pressure washer inside my garage. So use these suggestions as a guide, not gospel -

On truly dirty vehicles, you can pre-treat the dirtier sections of the car with an APC before going back with your rinse-less pre-soak. As mentioned, Bilt Hamber Touch-less is going to do an amazing job here, however you really need to properly rinse and flush away afterwards to prevent causing damage. So unless you can rinse, I'd probably stick with APC.

In this scenario, this would be your workflow -

1. Pre-treat the lowers with APC, allow to soak but not dry. (I'd use KCx Green Star at 1:10, or ADS Clean at 1:10)

2. Go around the car with spraying with your rinse-less pre-soak. (The normal 256:1 is fine, but I'd do 128:1 for extra lubrication and cleaning)

3. Commence the wash, preferably using the multiple towel method.

4. Dry using two large towels, you can also use a drying aid.

Rinse-less product choice in this situation, you could go a couple of ways. From what I've seen, the polymer-based Optimum No Rinse (ONR) seems to encapsulate better than some of the others. ONR also seems to drop contamination to the bottom of the bucket better as well, although that's not really a consideration if you use the multiple towel method because each towel never returns to the bucket. I'd also consider the surfactant based-McKee's N-914 or DIY Detail Rinse-less products seem to offer that "squeaky clean" feel. While I've never used it, I know of some ******** rinse-less guys who swear by Feynlab Pure Rinse-less v3, of which is probably the strongest cleaning on the market.

If it were me, I'd go with ONR and team with Green Star as the pre-treat. But again, treat my advice as a guide.

This video is worth watching as it shows the capabilities of rinse-less on a filthy vehicle -


This next video is a little newer and worth watching as well -


And this one is focused on ONR -


I hope that helps.

BISSELL STEAM SHOT 2635M

Over the years, there have been several situations where I’ve thought a steam cleaner would have been useful for a particular task. I’d then go looking at highly capable industry benchmark models from Dupray and McCulloch, you know, bigger is better. But then I’d bring myself back to reality, that the price and bulkiness was too much for the amount of use it would get.

So this little Bissell is the compromise, sweetened by a 20% discount.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...HulT6Bxs9gT13nA2SdNMmdOQkgdUiGAdZ27TyTHXo_sq_







Weighing just 1.4kg, the unit holds 360ml of water, filled with the supplied measuring cup. The power cord is 4.8-metres long, allowing you flexibility. Once filled and powered up, you’ll have steam within 2 – 3 minutes, with up to 120-degree temperature and 58-psi pressure. Warranty is 12-months.

In the box, you get the steamer unit itself, a measuring cup, two crappy towels that are destined for the rag pile, and an attachment piece for the nine accessories –

- Extension hose
- Grout brush
- Fabric steamer
- Window squeegee
- Flat scraper
- Angle concentrator
- Microfiber cleaning bonnet
- Green detail brush
- Red detail brush
- Black detail brush





You’re not going to tackle massive clean-up jobs or PPF removal with this thing, but that’s not the point. Instead, this is a compact and convenient grab and go solution for occasional use. And yes, I already have its first use planned.

For decades, Stihl sold push mowers under the Viking brand, both petrol and electric. From what I can gather, in Australia those mowers were based on Masport's, just painted green and white. In 2018, Stihl discontinued the Viking brand globally, although it had disappeared from Australian dealers before that.

https://corporate.stihl.at/en/press...awn-mower-in-green-leaves-the-production-line

Note the Masport catcher and snorkel -



Since then, Stihl have transitioned to making and selling lawn mowers. In the USA, that's both push mowers or zero-turns.

https://www.stihlusa.com/en/c/zero-turn-mowers-1027877?scroll=1300
https://www.stihlusa.com/en/c/lawn-mowers-1027889

In Australia, we only get the battery powered units, the zero turns are off the table as well. The most popular of these would be the 18-inch steel RMA 348 powered by the mid-tier AK batteries, and 21-inch steel chassis RMA 510 powered by the professional AP battery system. Neiter of these I recommend, they are based on a generic steel chassis that forms the basis for multiple brands, I actually had the 21-inch version on John Deere JS48. They also don't cut low enough, some have resorted to spacing the blade down with washers to limited success. Apart from their battery and motor tech, these aren't really a Stihl product.

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/p/lawn-...2#rma-348-without-battery-and-charger-1011402
https://www.stihl.com.au/en/p/lawn-...mower-ap-system-79221#rma-510-skin-only-79221

For the petrol-powered push mowers in the US, these are mostly powered by Stihl branded Kohler engines. The most recent models caught my eye, the RM 453 and RM 453 V (self-propel).






As you can see, this is not a run of the mill lawn mower, clearly a lot of thought went into the user interface and visual design. The handle ergonomics look innovative, especially how it folds away for storage or transport. I kinda like the clever (if flimsy) mulch flap and variable drive system. The 21-inch polymer deck has 4 cutting modes (mulch, rear discharge, side discharge, catching) and integrated lift points......................

So, all of that effort into creating a bespoke, innovative product, then they go and put a shi.ty Loncin engine on it. :doh The two blokes in the above video think that this is a good choice, but then they would do................they are a Stihl dealer looking to sell mowers.

Like, I get Stihl not making their own 4-cycle engines, but for goodness sake, a premium mower with such a premium look and feel, then they cheap out on the most important part of the mower. I'm no Honda man, but a GCV170 or GCV200 would be the logical choice here. Or even the Kohler HD series. But what would I know, I'm just lawn mower man.

DFB's OVER & UNDER 2026

The following is list 5 overrated and 5 underrated detailing products on the market in 2026. Depending on how you see it, this could also be a do and don't buy list, or just a jaded detailer having a rant. I'll leave that up to you.

OVERRATTED –

Bilt Hamber Trace-less –

I’m not going to fully document my struggles with this product, but this is easily the most disappointing detailing product I have tried. After hearing all the hype, how this was the greatest glass cleaner ever made, when it finally arrived in Australia I bought the large 5-litre bottle, I was that confident.

And on first acquaintance, Trace-less is certainly a wow product, namely how quickly it flashes. Afterwards, you assume its left a perfectly clear glass surface. But then you notice light ghost marks in certain light, then you drive into the sun and you see all of the wipe marks. So………….Trace-less is NOT traceless. And trust me, I tried everything to make this product work, be that different towels, different application methods, different temperatures. Nope, it streaks.

My big problem with Trace-less is the dream I was sold at a considerable price, then having it completely fall well below its promise.............................it’s not actually "traceless". Maybe I expected too much? Maybe I'm too critical? Maybe I see what others don't? Maybe I've tried and compared to many products and brands? All I know is that I'm not the only one who has had trouble with Traceless, be that in AU or the USA.



McKee’s N-914 -

Several years ago, N-914 became the MUST HAVE rinse-less wash product. At the time, it was marketed as a product that “left nothing behind”, something certain people though was important. Compared to something like the polymer-based Optimum No Rinse (ONR), N-914 is surfactant based. Some of the early ONR competitors were simply watered down soaps (surfactants), however N-914 wasn’t and that’s where it gained a foothold over the former benchmark, ONR. But that notion of “leaving nothing behind” is flawed, especially how hybrid products with Si02 have become so popular, or the fact people would then go and spray a ceramic-spray sealant all of the car and called it a “drying aid”. Can you see where I find the nothing behind thing ridiculous?

To be fair to McKee’s, N-914 is a nice product. But I don’t think it's markedly better than the competition to warrant the hype, then or now. I found it lacking slickness, to me it had a sticky surfactant feel under the wash media. And despite the claims, you ARE leaving something behind, its simply unavoidable unless you follow with a prep spray or rinse the car afterwards (which defeats the purpose of a “rinse-less” wash).

The funny thing is, I’m seeing multiple suppliers drop the product from their stores.



Koch Chemie GUF –

This is another product that came to market with lofty claims. GUF is a dedicated dressing/protectant for rubber floor mats, one that doesn’t create a slip hazard. As far as I can tell, it’s the only product of its type. So, as soon as it became available in Australia, I ordered a bottle.

Prior to application, you clean the floor mat as usual, then dry. From here, you liberally mist with the product and then level with a towel. GUF has a strong solvent/alcohol aroma, which would explain why it flashes off the way it does. And yet, I can never really see an enhancement after using GUF……………which to me is a complete waste of time and money. And because of that IPA content, I’ve had it kill spray heads.

For rubber floor mats, I have much better luck using a product like P&S Swift, which contains a very mild dressing, so mild it doesn’t cause slipperiness. But at least you can see an improvement.



Koch Chemie Motorplast -

This will be a controversial one, simply because everyone seems to like Motorplast. This product was designed for easily dressing an enhancing engine bays, of which can be applied to a freshly cleaned and still wet surface. Koch Chemie would have you believe that this self-leveling wet application is unique to Motorplast………………but it isn’t, Meguiar’s and other companies have offered something similar for decades.

So why don’t I love this product. Look, its super easy to apply, smells nice, levels off well. But its too glossy for my taste. In theory, you’d just dilute it down………….which defeats the purpose of buying a RTU product. No, something like Megs Hyper Dressing does this task just as well, if not more so than Motorplast, and can be tailored to your taste. For the record, Hyper Dressing at 5:1 (4:1 is considered “natural”, so I go even further than recommended) is my preferred engine bay dressing for a “barely there” look.



P&S Pearl -

Right, so this one is probably relevant to a specific buyer type. On face value, Pearl looks like a screaming deal, easily one of the cheapest high-volume soaps on the market, and one that’s made by an industry favourite. As such, it’s sold as a value proposition, in theory ideal for professional use or those who want their money to go further. For example, 946ml sells for $29.95 ($14 USD), 1-gallon is $57.95 ($26 USD), and 5-gallon is $190.95 ($86.40 USD). But dig a little deeper and that value prospect is flawed.

Pearl is poorly concentrated, which means using 2 to 3 times more soap per application. And even then, it doesn’t foam or provide meaningful suds, lacks slickness, so-so cleaning ability, and the mild lemon scent is desperately dated. What annoys me most is how P&S claim Pearl is a “high foaming shampoo”………………..it’s not even close to that claim, no matter the dilution.

So even if Pearl was more concentrated, it still ***** to use. And that’s not “value” in my book. And those who do, well they obviously failed maths at school.



Dishonorable Mentions -

- The entire Labocosmetic brand, **** bottles with a **** Italian accent, but waaay too complicated.

- Sonax Perfect Finish, laced with fillers to mask the less than perfect finish it leaves behind.

- Gtechniq CSL + EXO coating combination, a so-so base coating that needs another coating to make it slick and hydrophobic, in turn doubling the price to coat your car.

UNDERRATED -

Armour Detail Supply Adapt –

This might be a surprise to have an ADS product listed here, mainly because the brand has rapidly grown to be an industry benchmark. And yet so many sleep on Adapt, which is actually one of my favourites from ADS. I think being classified as a “water-less wash” boxes Adapt into a corner and turns buyers away.

I absolutely love Adapt as a drying aid, the added lubrication for safe water-less washing proves useful here too. It’s great on door jambs and light interior dusting or cleaning gloss trims. I also think Adapt smells nicer than Amplify, and has a slicker feel under the towel.



Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Detailer –

Also sold in the Detailer range as M799 Pro Ceramic Bead Booster, this is a product that I’ve loved using over the years. And yet it doesn’t really get mentioned. And that's a shame because it really is a great product, super easy to work with, available everywhere.

In my case, I use HCD as a drying aid, which provides excellent gloss and slickness with minimal effort required. It’s only failing is the dated fragrance, and the price at full retail. Great product shunned by the brand snobs, which included me before I decided to give it a shot.



Opti-Coat No Rinse –

I believe this is the most underrated rinse-less wash product on the market. In recent years, Si02 infused rinse-less washes have become increasingly popular, and yet Opti-Coat No Rinse has existed long before this fad took off. As with the rest of the Opti-Coat Maintenance Line, this yellow version of Optimum No Rinse was designed to maintain Opti-Coat ceramic coatings, although you can use it on any LSP. I love the slickness of this product, both under the wash media and the final result, and I prefer the mango scent compared to blue ONR.

There are three reasons why Opti-No Rinse isn’t more popular. Firstly, up until recently you could only buy the maintenance line from Opti-Coat installers, usually sold as an add on sale to a professionally applied coating. Secondly, its only available in a small 473ml bottle. And thirdly, its more expensive, which relates to lack of a bulk quantity bottle size. Still, I really enjoying using this product, its waaay better than some of the more popular options on the market.



Carpro Reload 2.0 –

Reload was one of the first ceramic spray sealants to hit the market. Like any new and pioneering product, there were some peculiarities with Reload. What many don’t know is how Carpro subtly updated the formula over time, which addressed some of the application quirks. And with the latest Reload 2.0, it’s a night and day difference to the original. And yet, people completely sidestep Reload because someone somewhere once had it be a little streaky. Then there is the supposed lack of durability. I think people expect too much from a spray and wipe product like this, especially those who are hammering down with alkaline pre-wash soaps, then wondering why a sealant doesn’t last long enough.

Reload 2.0 fixed the application quirks, boosted the longevity, while remaining one of the slickest and glossiest spray sealants available. I also love Reload on trim, it producing subtle but long-lasting enhancement and protection without the potential risks that come with a ceramic coating on these surfaces. And I say long lasting because it takes the same effort to apply as a trim dressing, but won't wash off in the rain or at the next wash. And while Reload isn’t as hydrophobic as a full ceramic coating, it’s hardly a disappointment in that department.



Gtechniq Tri-Clean –

Most of what I’ve tried from this brand has been average at best, Tri-Clean is different. In response to the Covid pandemic, Tri-Clean was developed in conjunction with Biocote®, who are said to be a leader in anti-bacterial technology. As the name suggests, Tri-Clean does three things –

- Provide strong cleaning ability
- Provide disinfectant and anti-microbial properties
- Provide odour-absorbing properties that eliminate rather than cover up odours

Tri-Clean is pH neutral, meaning it can be safely used on all interior surfaces, including leather and Alcantara. I like the way this product wipes on, then flashes away to clean, non-greasy residue free finish. The only thing I don’t like about Tri-Clean is the Pine O Clean/Lysol-like scent, it is a disinfectant after all.



Honorable Mentions -

- Opti-Coat M-Wash, such an amazing soap that no one talks about. Expensive though.

- Optimum Power Wheel & Tire Cleaner, extremely capable, well above some the go-to's in this class.

- Opti-coat Clean & Protect, unlike similar products, this one actually delivers streak free results.

Finally tracked down the only missing piece of my Victa 18, the clip-on spark plug spanner.

D.F.B said:

Two weeks ago, I was mowing Kikuyu lawns after 60mm of rain and steamy humid conditions.

Click to expand...

@D.F.B I feel you pain. My record is 3.7 hours for my 5 acres (gross size). Thank goodness we're heading into winter.

The Jaaaaaaaaag is back for another visit.



These are the key reasons why I love this car -

Styling - In 2026, the XE sedan probably looks bland. Being an 11-year-old design and compared to some of what passes as "design" today, well I guess that statement is true. But in my opinion, the restraint, carefully profiled lines, and the loooong hood and stubby tail are what make the XE for me. In a recent interview, former Jaguar chief designer Ian Callum condemned the direction some car companies are going in the name of "styling".

"...............I look a lot of the stuff at the moment, and I really worry there is a lack of elegance with these cars.................."

He also said the following -

"...............Jaguar's need to be beautiful............"

100%

Interior - Again, in 2026 this interior is probably too bland, even back in 2015 the media complained about it.................the same media who condemned the over-complicated BMW user interface. So which is it guys?

In the black on black combo, I can see where they were coming from. However, there were several alternative interior combinations that really lifted the ambiance, creating contrast and highlighting certain design elements. Depending on trim level, the buyer could select from several combinations of leather, carpet, headliner and trim inlay options. This car has the Latte leather with Ebony stitch, Latter and Ebony lower/upper environments, Ebony carpet, and Gloss Figured Ebony wood grain trims.

I also love the base instrument cluster with its deeply hooded circular dial binnacles, something I was hoping Ford would have done for the FG Falcon.

















Gearbox - This ZF 8-speed automatic gearbox is the best on the market. Unlike a DCT, this can shift smoothly in ALL conditions with no resentment for low speed, take offs and steep inclines. But the smoothness isn't accompanied by that slushy, disconnected feel of a CVT. Then put the hammer down and it shifts quickly with a reassuring firmness, and rev matches beautifully going down the box with the paddles. Put it in S mode without the paddles and it takes on a new dimension, running right out to red line and downshifting aggressively under braking. It's so far ahead of the Ford 10-speed that its almost embarrassing. And while not unique to the XE, I really like the circular gear selector dial, far more intuitive than the stupid systems BMW, Volvo and others have gone with.





Meridian Sound - Probably not the best audio system, but it sounds good to me and I'm VERY particular in that department. Crank it up and there is plenty of bass without becoming "muddy" or losing crispness. Oh, and it doesn't cause the whole car to rattle like some of my other cars.



Chassis & Steering - The chassis dynamics are probably the XE's signature. It's almost hard to describe, you can feel how light the car is, meaning it's super responsive and does what you tell it to do, but at the same time it has this planted, rock-solid feel. That's the result of an aluminium body, paired with heavy duty suspension components, all made in hefty aluminium. Even the strut towers are cast aluminium, not stamped steel. The steering in particular is amazing, probably too light for some, but to me it has that lovely "pointy" feel that made the AU Falcon's so nice to drive. Punting the car hard, I always feel as if there is still something left in the table, whereas the Mustang and Falcon's are all over the shop with body roll, pitch and dive, wheel spin, and understeer.







It's funny, in that same interview with Ian Callum, he was critical of the direction Jaguar took during this era. In pursuing the Germans, BMW in particular, Jaguar sort of lost some of their aura, in turn losing their old customer base. The new customer base Jaguar was aiming for had issues with the brands prior reputation, be that reliability or the "pipe and slippers set". So even though this XE was the superior "ultimate driving machine", no one knew put it on their shopping list. A true shame because the XE and XF were amazing cars.

Wash day for the Jaaaaaaaag.

Having sat in storage uncovered for a few weeks, it was super dusty. Both the wheels and body were cleaned with Reset, Amplify the drying aid, interior via Pilot, glass done with Eraser.



For the tyres, these were initially scrubbed with Wise Guy, followed by a pass with Eulex. I then applied two layers of Ghost.





These are the factory fitted Dunlop Sport Maxx RT from 2015, which really need replacing even with only 15,000km on them. Ideally, I'd put Michelin Pilot Sport 5 on the car, or maybe Continental Sportcontact 7.

Easter Musical Cars continues.........................

Mustang was given it's first wash in months.

Washing -
Tyres- Shine Supply Wise Guy
Wheels - Brake Buster (foamed) + Hydr02
Rotors - Atom Mac

Details -
Paint - Carpro Reset
Drying Aid - ADS Amplify (paint, exhaust tips, door jambs, engine bay)
Glass - Rupes Reveal Lite (so good)
Wheels - ADS Amplify
Tyres - OG Tire Dressing
Black Trim - Carpro Reload 2.0



From there, Mustang swapped places with Old Blue, back under its cover. Then the Ranger came back home, Jag back into storage.

That all means my long weekend is done with, back to work tomorrow.

D.F.B said:

Styling - In 2026, the XE sedan probably looks bland. Being an 11-year-old design and compared to some of what passes as "design" today, well I guess that statement is true. But in my opinion, the restraint, carefully profiled lines, and the loooong hood and stubby tail are what make the XE for me.

Click to expand...

I can't say I've paid much attention to these Jags but now I look at your pics I reckon the styling has aged pretty well. A good looking car in my view.

D.F.B said:

Gearbox - This ZF 8-speed automatic gearbox is the best on the market. Unlike a DCT, this can shift smoothly in ALL conditions with no resentment for low speed, take offs and steep inclines. But the smoothness isn't accompanied by that slushy, disconnected feel of a CVT. Then put the hammer down and it shifts quickly with a reassuring firmness, and rev matches beautifully going down the box with the paddles. Put it in S mode without the paddles and it takes on a new dimension, running right out to red line and downshifting aggressively under braking. It's so far ahead of the Ford 10-speed that its almost embarrassing. And while not unique to the XE, I really like the circular gear selector dial, far more intuitive than the stupid systems BMW, Volvo and others have gone with

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I have the same transmission, or at least a later iteration of it, in my 2024 BMW 330e and agree that its quite delightful. I'll have to disagree about the Jag's circular selector gizmo though. Rotating a dial for this purpose just doesn't seem natural or logical or, as you say intuitive, to me, just like all the 4WD's that have rotary dials for selecting high and low range, 4WD etc. I don't know about earlier ones, but my BMW's selector interface doesn't seem at all stupid to me.



It's interesting the different approaches manufacturers have taken to this control since wired communication to the trans rather than rods or cables became the norm. My partner's Renault EV has this stalk on the right hand side of the wheel (one of four stalks on the wheel, which I think could have been a lot tidier), similar to the Mercedes approach of the last 10 years or so. Park is activated by a button on the end of the stalk.



Of course, the best gear selection mechanism is like this (I must do something about those overly bright under dash courtesy lights).

Had to cancel the job list today due to the rain, which meant a little tool and equipment maintenance instead.

A few weeks ago, I trimmed back a star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) wall feature. If you've dealt with this plant before you'll know they bleed copious amounts of sticky white latex with every cut stem. In addition to wearing most of it, the stuff coats your cutting implements with sap. To get this off your skin, you need isopropyl alcohol and a sacrificial towel. Getting it off tools is even harder.

Despite soaking them in a bath of mineral spirits, which would normally dissolve this sort of thing, I had to break them down and buff with a wire wheel. I then sharpened the cutting blade, smoothed off the bur on the reverse side, then reassembled with lithium paste.





I then grabbed the hedger to sharpen the blades, which had been cutting poorly of late. I hate doing this job, but it pays in the long run. I like to sharpen these with a grinding stone on my Milwaukee M12 Rotary Tool, which gives more control and better access over a grinding wheel. It doesn't take much to put the edge back on a tooth, but there are 68 edges that need to be sharpened on this 18-inch bar. Can you see why I hate doing this? I'm probably going to replace these blades soon, they are the originals from 2018 and have done a power of work.



That hedge trimmer is the only battery tool where I'd never contemplate going back to petrol power. Blowers **** battery power at an alarming rate, so for my setup I still rely on petrol. Grass trimmers, I feel like I get better control with a petrol engine, and mowers aren't there yet for the size and thickness of lawns I cut. Chainsaws? I like the grab-and-go convenience and lack of noise from battery. But you'll have to prise petrol saws out of my cold dead hands, absolutely nothing sounds a nasty high revving 2-stroker.

Microfiber purge!

These towels and wash mitts have been taking up space in my cabinets for too long. Some of them were set aside for trashed vehicles, I'm not sacrificing my good stuff for use on someone's hacked up car. Some were sidelined because they didn't suit my preferences and therefore rarely used. Some are being replaced with something different/better. Some had reached a wear point I wasn't happy with. Some were odd-bods that I bought to sample or were sent as freebies.





Not pictured, but several made it into the rag pile for dirty jobs, maintenance, servicing ect. What is pictured has been listed for sale.

With towels, I want uniformity rather than a messy assortment from different suppliers, different weave type and different colours. For each detailing task, I want a matching set of towels in the same colour, then stored together in a sealed storage container. This includes Bulk Drying, Drying Aid, Door Jambs, Glass, Polish Removal, Coating Removal, Interior, Engine Bay, Wheels, Beater/Multi-Purpose................... all of the same type and from the same brand. Matching sets.

You may question my sanity by wanting/having that, but it helps keep everything consistent and organized. It also helps with recognition, be that during use, when laundering, or when folding and storing. So, there is method to my madness.

Another order from Detailing Shed.



The order was mostly for the microfiber towels. I've decided to move from Creature Edgeless to Eagle Edgeless for my "good" interior towels. The difference here isn't massive, where the Creature has a long and short nap, the Eagle is long nap each side. I also find the Creature loses softness over time, even with correct care. With so much glossy finishes in modern cars, you kinda need a towel like this.
https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=612b775a2&_ss=r&variant=18475281088569

The second towel is another round of Edgeless Pearl, which I like for coating removal. I have these in both colours, grey and orange, which helps keep track of which is the first wipe and which is the second.
https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=05e7c73c2&_ss=r&variant=18620510076985

Adapt and Pilot are restocks, the Clean APC is new though. I don't use a lot of APC, but so many rave about this stuff, so I thought I'd check it out. Naturally, a matching Pressol and label set was also ordered.
https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...4&_sid=ae5978798&_ss=r&variant=46933808316631

Finally, a set of replacement rubber locking feet for Detail Guardz Dirt Lock grit guards. I bought those Dirt Locks several years ago before sidelining them in disgust because they just wouldn't stay at the bottom of the bucket. Since then, they've redesigned the rubber feet, so here's hoping they actually work this time.

Looking forward to some garage time in the next couple of days, has been a busy week on the tools and from behind the keyboard. I've been working on something new, some here may already know, but at the moment I'm just finding my way.

As planned, I got a few hours of bliss in the garage today.

The first job, applying the ADS Clean label to its own Pressol bottle, then mixing up a batch to use on the Wildtrak.



Clean is a citrus-based All-Purpose Cleaner. Most APC's on the market are heavily alkaline, but Clean is pH balanced and considered non-caustic. The cleaning power comes from the orange oil formulation, and it certainly has that orange-like aroma to it. Clean was designed to have a generous lathering effect, which means it can even be used in a pump action foamer or foam cannon. The lathering ability doesn't necessarily corelate to cleaning performance, but its a nice visual indicator as you scrub.

Clean is supplied as a concentrate and must be diluted before use. Which dilution ratio you go with will depend on the level of cleaning performance you need, and the surface material it will be used on.

Heavy Duty Cleaning - 4:1
This would be suitable for cleaning wheels and tyres, engine bays, bug removal, rubber floor mats and wheel wells.

Medium Duty Cleaning - 10:1
This mid-range dilution would suit dirty door jambs, heavy leather cleaning, dirty carpets and plastics, and spot stain removal.

Light Duty Cleaning and Maintenance - 20:1
This heavily diluted solution would suit mild interior cleaning.

I personally don't use APC on interior surfaces, so my use of Clean would be restricted to exterior use at the full strength 4:1 dilution.

First test subject, the rubber floor mats from the Wildtrak.







As you can see, Clean lathered up nicely when agitated with a brush. After rinsing and drying, the mats were misted with P&S Swift and wiped with a towel. Certainly not as-new condition, but that's not because the products used were lacking, rather the result of being 7 years old. For this task, Clean worked very well.



I also used Clean on the tyres and wheel arches. The tyres weren't too dirty, but the wheel arches were. For tyres, the lather is very important as it's a strong indicator as to how clean or dirty they are, while also giving the impression you are achieving something. My benchmark here is Brake Buster, which lathers up so nicely. Clean doesn't quite hit that benchmark, but its not far off and managed to do exactly what I needed here.











It's important to note that Clean doesn't replace a dedicated tyre cleaner, it's more geared towards well maintained sidewalls, hence not turning brown on this occasion. If you needed more than what Clean offers, that's where the dedicated tyre cleaner would shine. The key here is using the appropriate product for the level of cleaning required.



To finish, I went with the excellent 3D Ceramic Matte Tire from the GLW Series. I think when you have such big sidewalls like this, you want something that isn't too glossy as it ends up being visually too much. This 3D stuff easily fulfills that requirement.



The wheel arches here might look dirty, but they are just beaten up after 7-years on the road. Wildtrak's used a different wheel arch liner to the rest of the range, they have a glossy grey finish instead of black.

Going back to 2019, I bought four new buckets from Waxit. These were sold with either standard grit guards or the Dirt Lock type. Well, I bought two of each because I couldn't decide which one to get.



The concept of the Dirt Lock grit guards is they better trap dirt at the bottom of the bucket. Where a standard grit guard merely stops the wash mitt from touching the bottom of the bucket, the Dirt Lock's allow dirt to fall through but prevents it from being drawn back up to the surface as you dunk. Sounds like the perfect solution.







That theoretical perfection didn't pan out. The whole concept of a grit guard is that it sits at the bottom of the bucket. And yet, these Dirt Locks would not stay at the bottom, they'd just float to the top. Didn't matter how hard I wedged them into the bucket, as soon as it filled with water and started washing, they would just float to the top of the water. I persisted with this for quite a while till I gave up and went with a standard grit guard. Doesn't matter how fancy and superior this Dirt Lock design was, its meaningless if they don't actually stay in the bucket.





This was quite frustrating, especially considering the price difference.

Dirt Lock Grit Guard - $26.95
Standard Grit Guard - $13.95

The only saving grace was the pad cleaning kit attachment that worked with these Dirt Lock items. This is basically a paired down version of a Lake Country Pad Washer. Ever since, I've had two of these things sitting at the back of the cabinet, virtually useless.

It's telling that Detail Guardz redesigned the rubber feet to help keep them wedged against the side of the bucket. This applied to new Dirt Lock's, as well as a retrofit kit, of which has only just gone on sale in Australia. So, I thought I give the Dirt Lock's another try.







The original foam grips.



"Improved" rubber feet.





Installed with a firm push, I filled the bucket with water and got on with the job...........................................................................and..................................................

Yep, as Taryl Dactal would say, Junk Junk Junk.........................




So, another fail, and more disappointment. It's telling Waxit no longer sell these things. I don't know, maybe my buckets are junk? Yet a standard grit guard doesn't float. Meh, junk is junk.

D.F.B said:

The wheel arches here might look dirty, but they are just beaten up after 7-years on the road. Wildtrak's used a different wheel arch liner to the rest of the range, they have a glossy grey finish instead of black.

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Do you coat the fender liners with anything?

My old truck has similar liners and I'd use WD40 or Chemical guys Barebones to give them a nice shine (also made them easier to clean next wash).

My current truck has those felt liners so I don't do anything but power wash them real well.

Mark_17 said:

Do you coat the fender liners with anything?

My old truck has similar liners and I'd use WD40 or Chemical guys Barebones to give them a nice shine (also made them easier to clean next wash).

My current truck has those felt liners so I don't do anything but power wash them real well.

Click to expand...

I used to, but I don't bother now.

I absolutely love Stihl packaging!





I'll fit these next time the old blades need a touch up, nothing cuts like a fresh set of blades!

Today I tried a product that's been sitting in my cabinet for a very long time, one that I never got around to using, Bilt Hamber Auto Wash...........................



For the most part, I sidelined this product because it just didn't grab me, the lack of scent in particular. And yet, Auto Wash certainly has some big selling points -

- Multi-award winning
- A super concentrated chemistry (1:2000 dilution)
- Offers up to 100 washes from a 500ml bottle
- Contains no colours, fillers, waxes
- Offers long-term anti-corrosive properties

Maybe this is the perfect soap for those rust-prone Chinese-made MG's and LDV's......................

I used Auto Wash purely as a bucket wash, no foam cannon. To 10-litres of water, you only need to add 5ml of Auto Wash. Even at such a lean ratio, the soap has impressive suds, although not as lush as foaming the soap onto the car. It's slick, cleans well and without the foam, rinses with ease.

Overall, if you bucket wash like this, Auto Wash is impressively cost effective and certainly does the job. But for me, it lacks an X factor.

Do you think it would work well in a foam cannon? Thinking for washing things that I would just want a quick wash like powersports products and such.

moab11 said:

Do you think it would work well in a foam cannon? Thinking for washing things that I would just want a quick wash like powersports products and such.

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Not sure.

If you were aiming to do some foam and rinse style cleaning without agitation, then you'll be better served with Touch-less, which I've used on mowers and bikes before. You do need to be mindful of pairing your pressure washer and foam cannon to this soap so that you get effective/safe cleaning. I can guide you through that if you want, or follow the direction in the below link -

In the words of Britney Spears........................."Oops!... I Did It Again"

Thanks DFB, I do use Touchless and love it as a pre wash, wasn't sure if it would be ok as a stand alone wash as well.

moab11 said:

Thanks DFB, I do use Touchless and love it as a pre wash, wasn't sure if it would be ok as a stand alone wash as well.

Click to expand...

I probably wouldn't use Touch-less with agitation, although you can if its super dirty.

D.F.B said:

In the words of Britney Spears........................."Oops!... I Did It Again"

Click to expand...

@D.F.B that's okay, no harm was done.

So yes, I bought another lawn mower. This Rover Craftsman joins another two on the same square-body 18-inch alloy chassis, a larger 20-inch version, and two smooth-body 22-inch ProCuts as well (one not shown).





This particular one ticks a few boxes. First of all, this unit was made in 1986, the same vintage as me. It also has the old 148cc 3hp Briggs flat-head, which came with the auto-choke and vertical pull recoil. And its this vintage of Briggs that taught me all about how engines worked. At about age 12, my father and I rebuilt one of these engines, something Dad determined was better (read-cheaper) than buying a new mower. The reason for the rebuild? Well, the rings were completely worn out and it was smoking like a freight train. That mower and engine are long gone, so I'd been waiting for one to pop up, which leads us to this Rover.



This example is far from perfect, but its complete. Someone clearly forgot to lay out the drop sheet while painting, its covered in white paint overspray. This is a common theme on a lot of used mowers for some reason. The handlebar locks have been butchered, a new throttle cable with the wrong controller installed, and has leaking fuel cap. But the biggest problem is the lower crank seal, its leaking like sieve. So, I've gone and ordered the following -

- Lower Oil Seal
- Sump Gasket
- Air Filter
- New Rover Throttle Controller
- New Starter Grip (the one on it is incorrect)
- Fuel Cap (which I have NOS)
- Governor Spring (from NOS)

The oil seal I plan to do with the pan still in place, so if you have any seal puller recommendations, I'm all ears. I've ordered a gasket if needed, but I'd prefer to leave it alone.

I'll do the plug as well, probably when I pull the head to de-coke. Wheel bearings as well. Blades are fine.

Overall, its a strong runner. Those old auto-choke carbs had high and low speed adjustments, meaning it can actually idle down nicely and have a strong top end. Actually, its a little too strong up top, the tacho reading above 4000 rpm, they should be at 3600 rpm. I've already slowed it down. There are a few puffs of blue oil smoke, but not crazy. It is 40-years old, and those old Briggs burnt oil anyway, so to be expected. I also think the seller has put 10w30 in it, these engines should have SAE30, so that might cure the oil burn a little. Once I've done the oil seal, I'll swap to SAE30.

I toyed with a total rebuild, but it runs so nice and doesn't leak other than the crank seal, so I'm going to leave it alone.

While I wait for the parts to arrive, I decided to address a few cosmetic issues. The first being the muffler.







The exhaust port looks worse than it was, I gave it a quick clean out before reassembly, as well as cleaning the oil residue from around the valve cover. For the muffler, I used a combination of steel wool and a wire brush, then some Autosol metal polish. It's not perfect but much better than before. The black remaining on the centre was baked into the metal.



On that engine I rebuilt with dad, it also had the large Super Lo Tone, but with the metal all blown out around the bolts. To keep it attached to the engine, dad slung a length of wire underneath and over the top of the engine.................can you tell I don't take after my dad? When it started shooting blue flames out around the bolts, I put my foot down! Off to the mower shop, the guy gave dad two options....................guess which he chose? Yep, the cheap pepper pot cannister type, not the Super Lo-Tone. It just wasn't the same. As a 12 year old, I was so annoyed! That's why I love the look of these Super Lo-Tone mufflers.