Denwood
Well-known member
Nick that experience at the dealer to deal with the suction pump, *****! Oh, and damn you for sending me down the HA rabbit hole. The sound of a toilet flushing is very much present in my cranial area now, daily 
Joking, aside, it's pretty cool so far, and I'm literally just tickling the surface at this point.
Now, on the rust issue. No car that I've worked with has any significant OEM prep or treatment for rust. Seam sealer, some paint...that's it. The one exception I would cite is finding some waxoyl in the chassis rails of my 84 Scirocco! I'd only say it's getting worse as most OEMs have stopped plating fasteners altogether on the chassis. On the aluminum bodies of the newer F150s, the frames have definitely been dialed back for thickness likely due to FE analysis, and they rust. The aluminum oxidizes too. I would argue that ANY vehicle in the rust belt needs to be treated from day one, unless you're leasing and don't care...
Pretty much every vehicle with a windshield has a weak point for corrosion at the rear of the front fender liner. Water, leaves, needles etc. are carried in the water drains out from the right/left corners of the windshield lower cowl, and directed down into the fender. It invariably clogs up the drain holes in the fender liner, and that area stays wet. I saw variations of this on my Audi, Toyotas, Subaru, and Nissan. This is why I remove fender liners when doing corrosion management. It's also not a bad idea to block those areas at the top of fenders (with some eavestrough foam) in summer and just vacuum that area regularly to clean it. That way the seeds/needles/leaves can't drop down and repeat offend. You could try a combination of water fed in at the top, and a wet dry vac at the drain holes to try and clear some of that crud out.
To fix that area, for sure the fender will need to be removed. If you do decide to jump in DIY, at least the paint work will all be low, and not that noticeable. For now you may want to just (carefully) brush in some Ospho, let it dry, and then follow up with woolwax or similar to at least slow it down until you fix it. I would remove the fender liner too (easy job) and see how nasty things look on the inside. I had a long chat with the Canadian distributor for Waxoyl and his honesty was refreshing. On new (as in zero rust) cars, they do recommend Waxoyl's hard wax/cavity wax products, but he was very clear that on existing rust, you're better to stick with a product like Woolwax, as it's not going to have adhesion issues. This plays out with what I'm seeing with Noxudol 300 (the heavier, black chassis wax) over existing rust. Their cavity wax (Noxudol 700) is great inside panels, and from what I've seen, over existing rust. But the heavier 300 on existing rust does not adhere as well is it should.
Joking, aside, it's pretty cool so far, and I'm literally just tickling the surface at this point.Now, on the rust issue. No car that I've worked with has any significant OEM prep or treatment for rust. Seam sealer, some paint...that's it. The one exception I would cite is finding some waxoyl in the chassis rails of my 84 Scirocco! I'd only say it's getting worse as most OEMs have stopped plating fasteners altogether on the chassis. On the aluminum bodies of the newer F150s, the frames have definitely been dialed back for thickness likely due to FE analysis, and they rust. The aluminum oxidizes too. I would argue that ANY vehicle in the rust belt needs to be treated from day one, unless you're leasing and don't care...
Pretty much every vehicle with a windshield has a weak point for corrosion at the rear of the front fender liner. Water, leaves, needles etc. are carried in the water drains out from the right/left corners of the windshield lower cowl, and directed down into the fender. It invariably clogs up the drain holes in the fender liner, and that area stays wet. I saw variations of this on my Audi, Toyotas, Subaru, and Nissan. This is why I remove fender liners when doing corrosion management. It's also not a bad idea to block those areas at the top of fenders (with some eavestrough foam) in summer and just vacuum that area regularly to clean it. That way the seeds/needles/leaves can't drop down and repeat offend. You could try a combination of water fed in at the top, and a wet dry vac at the drain holes to try and clear some of that crud out.
To fix that area, for sure the fender will need to be removed. If you do decide to jump in DIY, at least the paint work will all be low, and not that noticeable. For now you may want to just (carefully) brush in some Ospho, let it dry, and then follow up with woolwax or similar to at least slow it down until you fix it. I would remove the fender liner too (easy job) and see how nasty things look on the inside. I had a long chat with the Canadian distributor for Waxoyl and his honesty was refreshing. On new (as in zero rust) cars, they do recommend Waxoyl's hard wax/cavity wax products, but he was very clear that on existing rust, you're better to stick with a product like Woolwax, as it's not going to have adhesion issues. This plays out with what I'm seeing with Noxudol 300 (the heavier, black chassis wax) over existing rust. Their cavity wax (Noxudol 700) is great inside panels, and from what I've seen, over existing rust. But the heavier 300 on existing rust does not adhere as well is it should.
