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The Best Light Fixture Ever!

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Dh3256

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Messages
1,134
cybrdyke said:
click here

several studies are referenced in this article. Literally thousands of studies on the effects of lighting on humans have been done by a wide variety of medical institutions.
CD
Click to expand...
OK, but those "studies" aren't scientific studies or credible. Even setting aside the research issues, none of those studies support your comment that "extremely overlit spaces re harmful".

I still haven't found any credible research that supports that "overlighting" is harmful in any way, and there is a LOT of research that shows "underlighting" is actually harmful.

Thanks for the additional information, though, just wanted to confirm there was no substance to the assertion and no actual risk.
 
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Dh3256

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Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Messages
1,134
cybrdyke said:
Interesting response.
I would have thought that the American Aging Association ( click here ) would be fairly credible.
Maybe one of these groups is more credible:
Heart.org
Psychiatrist.com
University of Texas Medical
Harvard Health
Monash University
NPR
Oregon State University
Click to expand...
Credible research is published in peer reviewed journals. Website articles aren't credible research.

Regardless, none of those articles support your assertion. If you were to post specific conclusions or better explain how you are reaching conclusions that don't seem to be documented in the references you have cited, that may help us understand.

Light pollution is not "overlighting", and so far no one has presented ANY evidence that it's possible to light a workspace bright enough to pose any health risk or danger. If that were true, why would they light operating rooms brighter than daylight, or why would brighter light of specific colors be the preferred treatment for many disorders, including SAD and depression?
 
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julesthegreat

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Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
118
Location
MACOMB, OK
cybrdyke said:
Interesting response.
I would have thought that the American Aging Association ( click here ) would be fairly credible.
Maybe one of these groups is more credible:
Click to expand...

Thank you for the concern and warning man but none of that really confirms you original concern.

Anything that says "light pollution" is propaganda in my opinion

Heart.org
Does not talk to the age of the participants or any control group, also choosing the most air polluted area and blaming it all on the light seems misleading. Being in china where they pour heavy chemicals and other industrial waste into the water doesn't seem like this will give you good data on what caused all the mentioned ailments.

Psychiatrist.com
"participants averaging 62.4 years of age" this seems like its a useless study as this is when people develop heart problems anyways.

University of Texas Medical
this one is just talking about circadian disruption and sleep

Harvard Health
Talking about blue light, melatonin and sleep

Monash University
"Nearly half of the homes in the study had bright enough light to suppress melatonin by 50%. But the study also found that the effect of artificial light on individuals varied greatly – by as much as 50-fold – and was difficult to predict."

NPR
Also talking about sleep and circadian rythm
"The study suggests getting bright light in the dead of night, specifically between 2 a.m. and 3 a.m., was the most harmful."
WOW shocking that getting blasted in the face at 2am with bright light will mess you up.

Oregon State University
They talk about torturing flies with blue light and others etc but they don't mention a control group of how the flies lived in normal sunlight conditions?
 
OP
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Platonic Solid

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Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Messages
3,587
Location
CT-USA
FTG-05 said:
Anyone?
Click to expand...
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light distribution regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
 
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D

dave*99

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
4,225
Location
Coastal NJ
Platonic Solid said:
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light output regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
Click to expand...
Welcome back!
 
F

FTG-05

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
1,500
Location
TN
Platonic Solid said:
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light output regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
Click to expand...
YAHOO!!!! Welcome Back!

:giggle:
 
T

TheEquineFencer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9,267
Location
Farmville, NC 27828
Platonic Solid said:
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light distribution regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
Click to expand...
I just happened back to this tread. I was just talking to another potential GJ member about you the other day. I was telling him how helpful you were with the poor average guy that doesn't really know WTF they are doing...

In the next few days I'm going to go look at what a guys says, and from what I've read about him, he's usually fairly accurate or gives honest replies, about some LED commercial lighting he has. It's new in the box stuff. From looking at his profile, he's a fellow "picker" of sorts. He says he has over $100,000 average retail price, LED lights and only wants $900 for all of it. From looking at the pictures he sent me, they are 277V lights. When I asked him about that, he said He's wired them to 120V and they work fine. I'm wondering about this.

It looks like he has a whole warehouse of assorted "stuff" mainly farm related. If I'm real lucky, I'll get by there tomorrow afternoon. I'm wondering if I can use or find a cheap 120v/277v transformer to make using the lights he has and still be cost effective or if they actually can run on 120V as he says?

Please explain the abbreviations and such for us less than knowledgeable folks.
 
J

julesthegreat

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Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
118
Location
MACOMB, OK
TheEquineFencer said:
I just happened back to this tread. I was just talking to another potential GJ member about you the other day. I was telling him how helpful you were with the poor average guy that doesn't really know WTF they are doing...

In the next few days I'm going to go look at what a guys says, and from what I've read about him, he's usually fairly accurate or gives honest replies, about some LED commercial lighting he has. It's new in the box stuff. From looking at his profile, he's a fellow "picker" of sorts. He says he has over $100,000 average retail price, LED lights and only wants $900 for all of it. From looking at the pictures he sent me, they are 277V lights. When I asked him about that, he said He's wired them to 120V and they work fine. I'm wondering about this.

It looks like he has a whole warehouse of assorted "stuff" mainly farm related. If I'm real lucky, I'll get by there tomorrow afternoon. I'm wondering if I can use or find a cheap 120v/277v transformer to make using the lights he has and still be cost effective or if they actually can run on 120V as he says?

Please explain the abbreviations and such for us less than knowledgeable folks.
Click to expand...
Most modern DC electronics like LED lights use a switching power supply to go from AC to DC can likely run on AC input anywhere from 50 volts to 300 volts. The reason for higher voltage is lower current and therefore smaller wire.
 
T

TheEquineFencer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
9,267
Location
Farmville, NC 27828
julesthegreat said:
Most modern DC electronics like LED lights use a switching power supply to go from AC to DC can likely run on AC input anywhere from 50 volts to 300 volts. The reason for higher voltage is lower current and therefore smaller wire.
Click to expand...
In the back of my mind, I remember something like this. I "heard" as long as they are run on the same voltage such as 277V they'll work okay. But If you take one down that's been run on 277V and try running it on 120V it'll fail shortly. My guess if they are like he says NIB, and I run them on 120V they'll probably run okay. We'll see how it plays out. I don't have any "real" funds right now, but I'm going to go see what all he has for now.
 
J

julesthegreat

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Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
118
Location
MACOMB, OK
TheEquineFencer said:
In the back of my mind, I remember something like this. I "heard" as long as they are run on the same voltage such as 277V they'll work okay. But If you take one down that's been run on 277V and try running it on 120V it'll fail shortly. My guess if they are like he says NIB, and I run them on 120V they'll probably run okay. We'll see how it plays out. I don't have any "real" funds right now, but I'm going to go see what all he has for now.
Click to expand...
That is certainly not a thing, nothing to worry about!
 
A

AP514

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
768
Location
Pearland, Tx
Platonic Solid said:
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light distribution regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
Click to expand...

Wow-- the Man himself is back in the House. ---- My Hero on the Lighting Front.----- You sure helped me back in the day.
Front Page still has the links and although some are not valid they still get you to the "SITES" with best deals.
 
S

senlow

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
2,219
Location
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
Platonic Solid said:
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light distribution regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
Click to expand...
It's great to see you back here. Based on the knowledge that you have shared, I did a lighting project in my shop last year. It turned out great. I really appreciate everything that you have contributed to this group.
 
M

Mudhog03

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 21, 2023
Messages
102
Location
south texas
Platonic Solid said:
Holy **** – 10+ years and this thread is still going! I haven’t been here for quite a while – it just became too much work.

You’ll know it when I kick the bucket as all my thread links will die unless my son decides to maintain my URL.

Reading the last few pages – 300FC is surgical room light level. Not a target anyone should be aiming for unless you have extreme vision degradation.

A very rough rule of thumb I’ve developed over the years:
For 100FC at work plane (30” above floor)
Ceiling height x 100 = max fixture lumen output
Thus 8’ ceiling = 8,000lm max, 15’ ceiling = 15,000 lumen max, …

You need the fixture or lamp IES file to define spacing criteria (max distance to mount fixtures at a given height)
Typical LED strip light spacing criteria = 1.3
Example calcs:
8’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 5.5’ x 1.3 = 7.15’ max fixture spacing
15’ fixture mounting height – 2.5’ work plane = 12.5’ x 1.3 = 16.25’ max fixture spacing

Following good spacing criteria practice ensures even light distribution regardless of lumen output.
Since you often don’t need 100FC, installing dimmable fixtures provides the most flexibility.

Thanks
PS
Click to expand...
15 x 100 = 1500 or am I looking at it wrong. I just started looking at this page because I am going to replace all my T-8s with 8' leds
My shop is 40' with 3 bays 10' 12' 10' wide and middle is 15' high sides 10'.
 
C

cdoublejj

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
167
Location
MO
Dh3256 said:
OK, but those "studies" aren't scientific studies or credible. Even setting aside the research issues, none of those studies support your comment that "extremely overlit spaces re harmful".

I still haven't found any credible research that supports that "overlighting" is harmful in any way, and there is a LOT of research that shows "underlighting" is actually harmful.

Thanks for the additional information, though, just wanted to confirm there was no substance to the assertion and no actual risk.
Click to expand...
blue light but, thats dependent on the color of light and i think it's more cerdanian rythem type of upset not so much eye cancer.

i will say laser beam LEDs make see damn spots, i pretty distributed light which can be achieved with LED if you spread out a decent amount of them. so we have mixed both LED and florescent tubes.
 
B

Brazen Bull

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2024
Messages
114
I have had good results using high bay UFO style industrial LED lights for utility lighting.
They are built very well, and very bright. Sometimes there is a current adjustment pot behind a rubber stopper on the long brick power supply, and I turn it down so its not so crazy bright but it runs a lot cooler.
Personally I think they look awesome, and I understand this raw industrial style in homes is fashionable now.
 
S

Scooter Scott

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
158
Location
McCordsville, IN
Dividing Creek said:
I bought a lot of the 4ft fixtures in Dec 2020. I linked/plugged them together and mounted them to 1/3's and mounted the 1x3's to the underside of my steel scissor trusses with 1/4 20 bolts. I'm now faced with a bunch of burned out 4' fixtures. Being honest I'm kind of disapointed @ the # of failed lights and how short the longevity was. This inside an insulated, heated, and air conditioned space so no adverse condtions to speed up failure.
Yeah we work a lot of hours- but thats not supposed to matter with led's.
Because of how I designed the install I have no option but to replace with the same product without ripping everything down 17' up in a working shop. Like others I thought they were the greatest thing since sliced bread when I initially installed them. Hey they were cheap and bright- until they weren't.
YMMV- your mileage may vary

I used the T5 6500k super brights. Another bundle ordered but not happy about the life I got out of them.
Click to expand...
Mine are doing the exact same thing except they are randomly burning out 1 by 1. It is very frustrating. I had fluorescent tube lights last for 10 years and I barely got 4 out of these.
 
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cdoublejj

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
167
Location
MO
i have recently done so but 4 of the 8 bulbs were duds, china specials of course, i figured by now existed some well known favorite brand name. i will go check homeless deathspot web site for retro fit bulbs.

EDIT: HOLY **** $50 a bulb!



EDIT: wierd link shows only one but, URL says 2pk

how often yall swapping out these LEDs? they only last a few years for me. but, auto sensing tools for working on LEDs, maybe ill fix em
 
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H

hike

New member
Joined
Oct 11, 2025
Messages
1
Need some advice on selecting an appropriate wraparound/flat-panel for 27x27 3-car garage, with 8-9 feet ceiling.

Using the calculator with ~50fc target), it seems I would need 9 5000-lumen lights.

Question: for the same lumen output (say 5000), is it advisable to go with 2x4 (wide) future or 1x4 (narrow) futures?

Also, I am considering one of these:
The first two have "micro-prismatic technology" (for uniform lighting, as claimed by the manufacturer), and the last one has frosted. I was worried about the "primastic" thing for the garge; but when I went to local HomeDepot store -- it looks OK from the far and did not have the usual prismatic thing you see in other fixtures. Curious if people have any experience with these.

Will highly appreciate if anyone has opinions or picks from these three choices.

Thanks in advance!
 
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C

cort

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2011
Messages
71
hike said:
Need some advice on selecting an appropriate wraparound/flat-panel for 27x27 3-car garage, with 8-9 feet ceiling.

Using the calculator with ~50fc target), it seems I would need 9 5000-lumen lights.

Question: for the same lumen output (say 5000), is it advisable to go with 2x4 (wide) future or 1x4 (narrow) futures?

Also, I am considering one of these:
The first two have "micro-prismatic technology" (for uniform lighting, as claimed by the manufacturer), and the last one has frosted. I was worried about the "primastic" thing for the garge; but when I went to local HomeDepot store -- it looks OK from the far and did not have the usual prismatic thing you see in other fixtures. Curious if people have any experience with these.

Will highly appreciate if anyone has opinions or picks from these three choices.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
If color rendering matters to you, all three of the fixtures you posted links to have a CRI of 80. They are good for general lighting, but if your work relies on accuracy of color, then you might look for alternate fixtures.
 
S

Short Round

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Joined
Sep 13, 2014
Messages
92
Location
Upstate NY.
Platonic Solid, this is such a great resource. I am back reading this years later, like you for a visit!

I am adding some over the work bench lighting in the house. I already did the garage with the best lights ever in thread post one with the Maxlite two bulb fixtures. I am tired of casting shadows over my work so in the house I am adding Maxlite single bulb 4’ fixtures.
 
R

rd65

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Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,676
Location
Granite Falls, WA
I've had these light around 5 years, now many of them have these dead spots. Any way to repair them?
 

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cdoublejj

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Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
167
Location
MO
cybrdyke said:
Not really, unless you've got supreme skills in micro-soldering, can source the original LED board, and have more time than sense.
CD
Click to expand...
If the driver is good, all you should need is similar specs surface mount LEDs


Maybe ot the cheapst at $13-15 on sale im liking the Hobo Freight linkable LEDs
 
O

OzarkMan

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Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Messages
554
Location
Ozark Missouri

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duneslider

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2013
Messages
2,238
Location
Riverton, Utah
MesaAZguy said:
Got these lights on Amazon. Color selectable. Love the light output. My last house I had 4" LED can lights (27 of them!) but decided I didn't want that many penetrations in the ceiling and a simpler look.


1x4 Led Flat Panel Light, 4-Pack Surface Mount Ceiling Light, 24W/30W/40W, 5200LM Smooth Triac Dimming(10-100%) 5CCT 3000K-6000K, LED Light Fixture for Kitchen Office Garage, White ETL Listed
Click to expand...
THose are interesting, it looks like they can just mount to a round box on the ceiling? I have a bunch of single bulb lights in my garage and this could be a good solution for those.
 
O

OzarkMan

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2014
Messages
554
Location
Ozark Missouri
duneslider said:
THose are interesting, it looks like they can just mount to a round box on the ceiling? I have a bunch of single bulb lights in my garage and this could be a good solution for those.
Click to expand...
Yes, I installed new round boxes to the locations I wanted. Used a laser to line them up and a second spot laser from the measurements on the floor to the ceiling. I removed and patched the old boxes where the bulbs used to reside.
 
D

Denwood

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Joined
Sep 22, 2014
Messages
4,172
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
@Platonic Solid and/or @cybrdyke , I'm doing a YT review of this product specifically for garage lighting, namely the
JOYLIT 24V COB LED Strip Lights 5000K Daylight White Dual Row 16.4ft (affiliate link). I could not make sense of the UL listing information which I'm hoping you can critique. They require a 24 volt power supply, 7 amps miniumum.

I'm putting them on the lower edge of my upper storage, as you see here:

1774881660689.png

I was looking for a 5000K solution with CRI at 95+ (no TM-30 information that I can find).

30 watts/4024 lumens/4 feet length (to compare with a bulb)
125 watts and 15858 Lumens per 16.4 feet strip
Efficiency is at 134 lumens/watt. With a UL listed power supply included in the price for one strip, I'm estimating $.009/lumen.

I'll be putting them in a shallow 18mm aluminum track with diffuser lens as pictured above.

UL listing is claimed. They have a few images like this in their product description, hard to read, none in English.

Specifications

-Color temperature: 5000K±200K Daylight White Strip Lights
-LED Type: COB LED Strip Lights
-Working Input Voltage: 24V DC
-Output power: 125W /16.4ft
-LED Quantity: 960leds/mt
-Waterproof: IP20 Non Waterproof LED Strip Lights
-View angle:180 degree
-Working Tempreture:-20°to 70°
-CRI: >95
-Drive Mode:Constant Voltage
-Package: 1 X 16.4ft / Roll

61WzTqYqssL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
C

cybrdyke

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Messages
3,442
Location
USA
Denwood said:
@Platonic Solid and/or @cybrdyke , I'm doing a YT review of this product specifically for garage lighting, namely the
JOYLIT 24V COB LED Strip Lights 5000K Daylight White Dual Row 16.4ft (affiliate link). I could not make sense of the UL listing information which I'm hoping you can critique. They require a 24 volt power supply, 7 amps miniumum.

I'm putting them on the lower edge of my upper storage, as you see here:



I was looking for a 5000K solution with CRI at 95+ (no TM-30 information that I can find).

30 watts/4024 lumens/4 feet length (to compare with a bulb)
125 watts and 15858 Lumens per 16.4 feet strip
Efficiency is at 134 lumens/watt. With a UL listed power supply included in the price for one strip, I'm estimating $.009/lumen.

I'll be putting them in a shallow 18mm aluminum track with diffuser lens as pictured above.

UL listing is claimed. They have a few images like this in their product description, hard to read, none in English.

Specifications

-Color temperature: 5000K±200K Daylight White Strip Lights
-LED Type: COB LED Strip Lights
-Working Input Voltage: 24V DC
-Output power: 125W /16.4ft
-LED Quantity: 960leds/mt
-Waterproof: IP20 Non Waterproof LED Strip Lights
-View angle:180 degree
-Working Tempreture:-20°to 70°
-CRI: >95
-Drive Mode:Constant Voltage
Click to expand...
For transparancy, I am very jaded against companies that sell their products on Amazon, so when i look at them, I immediately see red flags all over the place. So, keep that in mind when considering my opinions.
LED strip lighting, in the USA at least, is listed under NEC Class 2. This relates to low-voltage lighting, either 12V or 24V. The maximum allowable wattage for 24V is 96w. A 125w product like this one wont meet that requirement, and hence wont get UL, even if all the components have their own UL listing. Companies that make UL products are quite proud of the fact and happily include their UL file numbers in their product description. When that information is missing, it's something to notice. The insinuation in their product description on Amazon that the product is UL when it isn't, is a giant red flag for me and only reinforces my jaded opinion.
When you select a driver, it will likely be maxxed out at 96w per channel to meet the Class 2 requirement. This will carry the UL flag for the lighting system. You'll have to cut the tape to 12'6" to get your 96w limit. Be sure to get a driver that matches the control system you intend to use. There are alot of drivers now that are "multi-dim", meaning they are capable of connecting to line voltage or low voltage dimming products.
Regarding your project, remember that the beam angle will be severely reduced by your channel, even the shallow one. 8w tape is extremely bright and it looks like you might be putting it in direct view. Bear that in mind so you dont blind yourself.

Good luck,
CD
 
D

Denwood

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Sep 22, 2014
Messages
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Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
cybrdyke said:
For transparancy, I am very jaded against companies that sell their products on Amazon, so when i look at them, I immediately see red flags all over the place. So, keep that in mind when considering my opinions.
LED strip lighting, in the USA at least, is listed under NEC Class 2. This relates to low-voltage lighting, either 12V or 24V. The maximum allowable wattage for 24V is 96w. A 125w product like this one wont meet that requirement, and hence wont get UL, even if all the components have their own UL listing. Companies that make UL products are quite proud of the fact and happily include their UL file numbers in their product description. When that information is missing, it's something to notice. The insinuation in their product description on Amazon that the product is UL when it isn't, is a giant red flag for me and only reinforces my jaded opinion.
When you select a driver, it will likely be maxxed out at 96w per channel to meet the Class 2 requirement. This will carry the UL flag for the lighting system. You'll have to cut the tape to 12'6" to get your 96w limit. Be sure to get a driver that matches the control system you intend to use. There are alot of drivers now that are "multi-dim", meaning they are capable of connecting to line voltage or low voltage dimming products.
Regarding your project, remember that the beam angle will be severely reduced by your channel, even the shallow one. 8w tape is extremely bright and it looks like you might be putting it in direct view. Bear that in mind so you dont blind yourself.

Good luck,
CD
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for taking the time to look this over. I hear you on the whole Amazon thing..it’s pretty easy to “disappear” when you sell literally via a front. The difficulty in finding UL actual listing was another red flag. I had no idea on the 96watt limit, but I’m assuming that has to with fire risk exceeding that threshold. Does just separating the strip accomplish this? In other words, cutting the strip in half and running power to these components from potential the same driver? I have a corded 24V/10amp sealed power supply for each 16.4 ft strip but it looks like I cannot actually power the entire strip with one power supply/driver as planned. I’m just powering on and off via a Zwave plug rated for 15 amps via motion…no dimming.

Thanks again for looking this over. I appreciate your expertise.
 
C

cybrdyke

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Location
USA
It's 96w per channel from the driver (24V). If your driver only has one output, then 96w is your max. There are larger drivers available...200w, 300w, etc. These drivers will have 2 channels or 3 channels, each channel max is 96w (4.0A).
 
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Denwood

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Joined
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Messages
4,172
Location
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Ok so using the Mean Well LVP-100 (
cybrdyke said:
It's 96w per channel from the driver (24V). If your driver only has one output, then 96w is your max. There are larger drivers available...200w, 300w, etc. These drivers will have 2 channels or 3 channels, each channel max is 96w (4.0A).
Click to expand...
Ok, so I'm thinking the best option is to split the LED strip in two, and use a 96 watt driver per 8.2 foot section. Given that I need 24 volt, constant voltage, what are you liking for drivers/power supplies? It looks like there is one route with a corded 24 volt power supply like the corded Mean Well GST90A24-P1M power supply, or a driver like the Mean Well LPV-100-24 ? The LPV-100-24 I think is a fail, at 4.2 amps, so a 100 watts vs 96. It's the least expensive option though...

With the LPV-100-24 driver and leads, it looks like there is a short section of 120V "exposed" conductors between the driver housing and the junction box...

I can see why a 4 foot bypass tube and fixture is a lot simpler to sort. Again, thanks so much for taking the time :)

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