Sump Pump Gurus Step Inside
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Good points! For me the pump is submersed in Cold water and during the winter Ice Cold water so the heat in this application doesn't really apply for me. As much as I'm a fan of Cast Iron and being built stronger and possibly better, I had to replace a Cast Iron Pump years ago due to Excessive rust and Corrosion. So I went with the Heavy Duty Plastic Pump with Stainless Steel Impeller and that was in 2014 and it's still working and I know that I'll be probably replacing that one soon as nothing last's forever.
LtF
LtF
Looking at all the Sandy grime on everything that you pulled out of the hole. If it were me I would install homemade filter fabric inside the Sump to filter the water coming in before it got to my pumps and increase the life span of the pumps! JMO!Took the cover off, and I do have two pumps with two switches
Power to the outlet is fine
Yes, it is battery backup........
The backup pump and pump switch does not have a plug, it is wired directly into the backup panel
The main pump and main switch have a plug..........I plugged the switch in, plugged in a lamp, and lifted the switch. The lamp turned on
I then plugged the main pump in and can definitely hear and feel it hum.......how loud should it be?
Everything was coated in sand, some thick and some areas barely any
I will go test the back up battery
LtF
Project done......under 3 hours
I think the Master Plumber pump I removed was still good and the float was only bad. After I removed it from the pit, I manipulated the tether float and the pump worked. I'm going to see how much a new float is and keep this one as a backup.
Anyways, the new pump and new check valve are installed
The old check valve was definitely shot, the valve was stuck open about 3/8" and was very hard to move back and forth
The bottom of the pit had a good amount of sand, that I scraped out really good and used the shop vac to get any leftovers
There also was not any bricks on the bottom, so after I cleaned the bottom out, I used 3 bricks and made sure the main pump and backup pump were supported good and both were not sitting on the bottom
I patched the gap around the incoming pipe, as I think this was the source for the sand......with hydraulic quick set cement.
Tomorrow it's supposed to rain a decent amount, so I will watch the pump area and I'm also curious if there's and change in sound levels. Also hope the vertical float works better than the tethered float setup
Total price was around $200, for the Ridgid 1/2 hp pump, a new Zoeller check valve and a tube of clear silicon
I think the Master Plumber pump I removed was still good and the float was only bad. After I removed it from the pit, I manipulated the tether float and the pump worked. I'm going to see how much a new float is and keep this one as a backup.
Anyways, the new pump and new check valve are installed
The old check valve was definitely shot, the valve was stuck open about 3/8" and was very hard to move back and forth
The bottom of the pit had a good amount of sand, that I scraped out really good and used the shop vac to get any leftovers
There also was not any bricks on the bottom, so after I cleaned the bottom out, I used 3 bricks and made sure the main pump and backup pump were supported good and both were not sitting on the bottom
I patched the gap around the incoming pipe, as I think this was the source for the sand......with hydraulic quick set cement.
Tomorrow it's supposed to rain a decent amount, so I will watch the pump area and I'm also curious if there's and change in sound levels. Also hope the vertical float works better than the tethered float setup
Total price was around $200, for the Ridgid 1/2 hp pump, a new Zoeller check valve and a tube of clear silicon
Just a tip. If your gonna keep it as a Spare you might want to think about storing it in a 5 gallon pail of water with some simple green or something similar after you clean it good. A friend of mine didn't and it seized up. Just an FYI.
LtF
LtF
Naturally it's like anything else and the more you explore the more you discover and find out.
Are sure that the pipe is not separated and interrupting flow as a broken or clogged, or blocked pipe will also act like a completely frozen pipe. Just another thought as I've chased many a blocked pipes in my lifetime. A Sewer snake and or camera comes in handy also. Have to be careful with the camera as I've seen and heard some get snagged and lost under different conditions and some were retrieved by digging them up and locating them. Just some thoughts.
LtF
Anytime we're gluing any kind of PVC pipe we always use 2 coats of the specified cleaner with the provided dauber and it not only cleans but softens the pipe and really allows the glue to weld itself together with the pipe!
LtF
LtF
buzzworth
Well-known member
Nice job. Now you can sleep well.
roc_on_the_rocks
Well-known member
ishiboo
Well-known member
The Ridgid is definitely the same as the Wayne stainless pumps I've had. I have been through probably a dozen of those on several properties. I mentioned it above, but on the Wayne there is a thin rubber strap which connects the bottom of the float's stainless shaft to the pump - on a nearly brand new Wayne purchased to replace a broken one (<1 month) the rubber strap just allowed the float to come right off once.
I will say EVERY Wayne failure other than two have been the failure of the switch. Before I switched to Zoeller, I used to keep a few spare Wayne switches on hand - at the time they could be purchased from Fleet Farm. Looking online, they are no longer cheap though. Wayne/Ridgid parts are absurd. The other two times, one was the motor (I think the seals failed) and the other time was the rubber strap I mentioned - only available for purchase in a $50 kit with the stainless rod and float.
I wouldn't use these pumps anywhere that flooded quickly or in any type of finished basement or one with storage where things could get ruined if they get wet.
I will say EVERY Wayne failure other than two have been the failure of the switch. Before I switched to Zoeller, I used to keep a few spare Wayne switches on hand - at the time they could be purchased from Fleet Farm. Looking online, they are no longer cheap though. Wayne/Ridgid parts are absurd. The other two times, one was the motor (I think the seals failed) and the other time was the rubber strap I mentioned - only available for purchase in a $50 kit with the stainless rod and float.
I wouldn't use these pumps anywhere that flooded quickly or in any type of finished basement or one with storage where things could get ruined if they get wet.
ishiboo
Well-known member
Just looking out, but did you remember to drill the 3/16" weep hole in the ABS above the pump?
BombShelter
Well-known member
Most new homes didn't start adding drain-tile until the early 80's, yours is most likely a retrofit. The amount of sand is very concerning, are the area ground conditions similar? Does your pump run a lot?
Vertical floats like very clean water or they'll stick, it's probably not a good choice for your situation.
With all that sand, your drain-tile system will eventually fill up and stop working, the water won't be able to make it to the sump basket, I'd start exploring exterior waterproofing solutions and getting roof water away from the foundation. If it fills up and stops working (which is very common), it's hard to fix internally.
I'd also put the pumps on a preventative maintance schedule, pull it out after a big storm, crack the impeller case open and wash it down, getting rid of sand, dirt and pebbles. Make sure the float is clean (and not full of water) and moves easily. Pull the check valve and wash that down at the same time. Most of these pumps will last years if they're not dead-headed or clogged with dirt.
Vertical floats like very clean water or they'll stick, it's probably not a good choice for your situation.
With all that sand, your drain-tile system will eventually fill up and stop working, the water won't be able to make it to the sump basket, I'd start exploring exterior waterproofing solutions and getting roof water away from the foundation. If it fills up and stops working (which is very common), it's hard to fix internally.
I'd also put the pumps on a preventative maintance schedule, pull it out after a big storm, crack the impeller case open and wash it down, getting rid of sand, dirt and pebbles. Make sure the float is clean (and not full of water) and moves easily. Pull the check valve and wash that down at the same time. Most of these pumps will last years if they're not dead-headed or clogged with dirt.
Maybe your talking about PVC Drain Tile which came about in our area in the Late 70's as we started using it and people weren't sure which direction to point the holes. Rule of thumb naturally was DOWN, as Water rises. I always preferred the 3 hole at 6 o'clock and 4 and 8 o'clock. Verses the 2 holes at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock. Not really sure about that. I've seen Older homes with Vitrified Clay pipe in 12 inch lengths butted up to each other and that was the foundation drain tile from the 40's through the 60's and even earlier with the octagon V.C. Pipe.
I do agree with keeping the pit and pump as clean as possible!
LtF
I do agree with keeping the pit and pump as clean as possible!
LtF
ishiboo
Well-known member
That's very dependent on your area. Around here, homes all have basements and have been tiled as long as I can remember - definitely in the 80s it was commonplace. Many have poly pipe from the 60s and 70s that is still in use, and many have clay from well before that!
Sand and dirt is pretty commonplace, especially on the older systems which were less carefully installed. The OP's photos showing that the outside of the pipe has a huge gap is a big source for a lot of that ingress - the tile all collects to the output, and what's sitting at the end of the drain and in the bottom of it doesn't look bad at all IMO. We have a lot of clay here, which is not ideal but there is still a ton of functioning OLD tile. 20 minutes from here, some folks have all sand.
There is nothing to say this has anything to do with roof water or any failure of the waterproofing. Many areas have that much groundwater and the roof may make it worse, but won't prevent you from needing functioning subsurface drainage. If there is an issue with surface water/roof runoff/etc. definitely get that corrected of course, but this could have nothing to do with it.
Agreed.
It's funny how many folks install tile "holes up"... I can see where the mistake happens though.
Yeah I totally get it. Also as a young man I was wondering which way was the proper way until we thought about it and was taught at a young age that water rises and we went from there making money fixing others mistakes and re installing their upside down pipes! LOL!
LtF
LtF
SumpPumpGurus
New member
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- Sep 28, 2023
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If you need a good quality pump, buy from a plumbing supply. The big box stores have beaten up Zoeller and the other top brands to get them to reduce the price. The lower quality Zoeller in HD/Lowes is the same price at the plumbing supply for the cast iron/stainless/brass model. If you put them side/side you can feel the weight difference.
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Well its time to replace the 500RSDS sump pump
Its still pumping water, but i can tell the force it pushes water out has drastically decreased
They most all have a 3 year warranty and it's right around that time
A new check valve will also be switched in
Time to shop online and possibly try a new pump
Its still pumping water, but i can tell the force it pushes water out has drastically decreased
They most all have a 3 year warranty and it's right around that time
A new check valve will also be switched in
Time to shop online and possibly try a new pump
I ended up going with:
Wayne CDU980E 3/4 HP Submersible Sump Pump
I've always ran 1/2 HP pump but my piping runs probably 100 feet to the curb, so I'm thinking the ling run might be killing the smaller hp pumps?
I think the 3/4 hp pump also has a higher amp draw so I hope its a 20amp outlet near the pump......I should have checked
Hopefully it will be here in 3 days
Wayne CDU980E 3/4 HP Submersible Sump Pump
I've always ran 1/2 HP pump but my piping runs probably 100 feet to the curb, so I'm thinking the ling run might be killing the smaller hp pumps?
I think the 3/4 hp pump also has a higher amp draw so I hope its a 20amp outlet near the pump......I should have checked
Hopefully it will be here in 3 days
Last edited:
larry4406
Well-known member
We let all exterior piping flow by gravity. We are required to have a 1” air gap between pump discharge pipe and external piping.
This will reduce the back pressure on your pump which may be a contributor to your repeated failures.
We aim the discharge pipe (we use 1.5” pvc) and aim it concentric to a turned up 3” pipe with a minimum vertical separation of 1”.
This will reduce the back pressure on your pump which may be a contributor to your repeated failures.
We aim the discharge pipe (we use 1.5” pvc) and aim it concentric to a turned up 3” pipe with a minimum vertical separation of 1”.