What did you do “IN” your wood shop today?
- Thread starter RonnieC
- Start date
jar944
Well-known member
why?
Had trouble seeing where it was laying down, plus more over spray then I expected.
Doors are pretty dry and barely coated.
This might be normal, now that they are "sealed" I'll see how the 2nd coat builds later today
jar944
Well-known member
You need a light above and behind the part enough to reflect the glare. The lack of reflection will show where you are thin.
You will go through a lot more paint spraying no matter what compared to a brush or roller.
Spraying color would have been easier too I think.
I know my lighting isn't right, nor are my racks. Really need to setup a dedicated finish "room", but I'm not doing this everyday...
Pellet stove went out around midnight last night and it was -10F out when I got up. Letting the shop get back to high 60's then back at it.
jar944
Well-known member
Racks are easy just a couple 2x6s and emt
As far as a proper booth, I need one myself
And regarding color vs clear, both are equally easy on the first coat. Color is a bit more difficult after the primer and second color coat as the sheen is the only way to see if you had full wet coversge or left any dry spray / tiger striping.
Racks are easy just a couple 2x6s and emt
As far as a proper booth, I need one myself
And regarding color vs clear, both are equally easy on the first coat. Color is a bit more difficult after the primer and second color coat as the sheen is the only way to see if you had full wet coversge or left any dry spray / tiger striping.
What's your sequence on spraying?
I was trying to hang and do all 6 sides in a single go. Brushing I would rack it, definitely stealing your idea.
Sanding now, definitely got coverage, just could not tell when spraying. This stuff goes on "milky" if not fully translucent, can barely tell it's there (which is what I want).
jar944
Well-known member
For clear just sand to 150 and spray 2 coats of Precat, scuff sand between coats.
For color it's 1-2 coats of undercoater or sealer full sand after each, and point up between. Then 2-3 coats of color with scuff sanding between coats.
All spraying is generally horizontal (except boxes/drawers) and on a turntable/lazy susan. Edges and backs then edges and fronts.
Nice.
Still need to work on my racks/hangers but think I've got the gun straightened out. Internal filter seemed to be massively restricting material, yanked it and got a nice even spray this afternoon. Easy to see it wet out the surface
SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 428
Cross post, dressed some lumber, rough dimensions for a small kitchen table bench. Fighting some tear out with the planner and joiner. I've salvaged everything so far. It's Cherry and has been air dried, not kiln dried. Maybe that's causing the challenge? Cherry I find easier to work with than say Pecan/ Hickory, White Oak which I find myself using frequently, but not these pieces. I do not have a moisture measuring tool, but it's plenty dry and proving to be a challenge.
A little Walnut too, came up just a bit short. It's on the underside and will not be visible. Just using it to add some support to thelegs and skirt. The desire is no lower leg bracing or stringer/ stretcher.
A little Walnut too, came up just a bit short. It's on the underside and will not be visible. Just using it to add some support to thelegs and skirt. The desire is no lower leg bracing or stringer/ stretcher.
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Mike65
Well-known member
This past week I finished the top to my older brothers tv table. I cut down 5 2x4's & screwed them together with pocket hole screws making a homemade butcher block top. Then I took it outside & set on a couple sawhorses & used my belt sander, RO sander & my palm sander to get it nice & smooth.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
I don't suppose you know what kind of wood the 2x4s were? I know it will generally depend on where you live. I'm just curious.
Where you're located? I'm guessing it's Southern yellow pine or spruce.
ptt49er
Well-known member
Gotta pick up matching hardware to our desk cabinets and it'll be finished!
Pretty happy with how this turned out.
Pretty happy with how this turned out.
Gotta pick up matching hardware to our desk cabinets and it'll be finished!
Pretty happy with how this turned out.
Awesome color combo.
How'd you finish it?
ptt49er
Well-known member
Thanks! The kitchen cabinets are next, just gotta get finished designing them.
The finish is sherwin williams sher-wood kem aqua sprayed thru an hvlp gun. Spraying the finish has been a big learning curve but I'm really happy with how it's turning out.
Mike65
Well-known member
southern yellow pine.
Yep, I'm trying to get the hang of clear right now...
Got a good coat this afternoon, but have bubbles that didn't flow or dust settled. Looks like a light sanding tomorrow and I'll brush a final coat on
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ptt49er
Well-known member
Those doors look fantastic!Yep, I'm trying to get the hang of clear right now...
Got a good coat this afternoon, but have bubbles that didn't flow or dust settled. Looks like a light sanding tomorrow and I'll brush a final coat on
What finish are you spraying?
Waterborne poly, HF purple HVLP.
Trying to cycle through 4-6 doors at a time, maybe I can get this kitchen finished before I hit the 10yr mark...
ptt49er
Well-known member
Good luck!
Brought 2 more doors up into the kitchen, sanded down the bumpy door from yesterday and brushed a coat. Wasn't happy so gave it a few hours and sprayed again.
I think once I get past 1/2 the can it must evaporate one of the additives, doesn't seem to flow as well.
Ran out of #6 screws so can't install any more today anyways.
Nothing is adjusted yet, so I'm sure a few are off if you stare at it.
I think once I get past 1/2 the can it must evaporate one of the additives, doesn't seem to flow as well.
Ran out of #6 screws so can't install any more today anyways.
Nothing is adjusted yet, so I'm sure a few are off if you stare at it.
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jar944
Well-known member
Ran 60' each of cove and wainscot cap last night.
Bessy
Well-known member
This weekend, while sick unfortunately with a nasty cold, I did get out into the shop to continue working on the kitchen reno, batching out drawer box parts (11 drawers (55 parts) for the kitchen, and eight drawers (40 parts) for the pantry, not including drawer faces and face frames). My rough strategy to batch out drawer box parts in as few set ups as possible, at least as I wrote out on a scrap chunk of 2x6, has been:
- Rough cut parts to length leaving 2-3 inches extra to account for snipe or tear-out.
- Rough cut part to width (for the few boards that are wider than my jointer).
- Joint one face and one edge flat/square
- Resaw the bulk of the unplaned face away, taking each part down to approximately 3/4" thick.
- Drum sand to final thickness
- Cut parts to final width and length at the table saw/miter saw
- Rabbet long-side ends (likely on the shaper, but I have admittedly not decided which tool to use yet)
- Dado all parts for drawer bottoms (again my preference would be the shaper, but I have not come that far just yet)
- Dryfit/Check for Square
- Glue-up
- Paint *(Wife's choice, I would have preferred clear coat on maple, and painting only the fronts and face frames myself)
- pre-drill for slides and install
Unfortunately, I'm not sticking to one process at a time, exactly, but taking each 12' board through parts 1-4 in a round, and then stacking them next to the drum sander (which still needs a new dust shroud built). So much for efficiency...
I took care earlier this week to do a proper set up of the bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, purchased summer 2023) via the Snodgrass method, because i figured it would be easier on the ears and on the back to run the parts through the bandsaw as opposed to taking 3/8" or so off each board in 6-8 passes through the planer. Hopefully less of a racket as well for the neighbours to deal with by running the bandsaw and the drum sander, both of which are considerably quieter than the jointer and planer. (An additional task assigned to justify the newly purchased (used) drum sander was only half in the brain as well. If my wife asks, I need to run them through the drum sander, there's no other way!)
The bandsaw worked ok as set up, but not good enough to run this number of parts through. I have previously resawed (resawn?) oak on this saw with much nicer results while set up stock with very little tuning, but for some reason I was getting an awful lot of chatter and a rough finish out of this poplar. After some reading, I decided it was worth it to try the higher blade speed setting on the saw, so I took a few minutes to swap the belt onto the back set of pulleys. From what I read, the higher speed might be a benefit in harder woods; While I know, poplar isn't the hardest of the hardwoods, it felt like a worthy endeavor to try and run the higher blade speed.
Well the speed increase is noticeable, sounding initially like a freaking jet engine taking off. The saw levelled out but then developed an intermittent squealing sound almost immediately. I reset all of the guide bearings away from the blade, spun the wheels both by hand, played with the drive belt tension both up and down and I cannot reproduce the sound with the saw off, but it's certainly there when it's running, albeit as I said, intermittently. Against my better judgement relating to the ugly sounds the saw made under no load, I set all my guide bearings again and decided to grit my teeth through a test cut on one of the pieces of poplar... The finish quality was noticeably much nicer at the higher speed, but the sound was still ugly.
I determined that I would drop back down to the slower blade speed and see if that solved my sound issues. Alas, it did not, but that brought me to lunch, so I decided it was time to take a break. I have yet to get back out there, but I am under a deadline to get at least the first set of drawers finished here soon. I will have to spend some hours out there this week to pull the saw out into a more open area to start diagnosing, and then see where to go next with the project, because I need to have that dishwasher installed before my surgery in T-minus-6 weeks.
- Rough cut parts to length leaving 2-3 inches extra to account for snipe or tear-out.
- Rough cut part to width (for the few boards that are wider than my jointer).
- Joint one face and one edge flat/square
- Resaw the bulk of the unplaned face away, taking each part down to approximately 3/4" thick.
- Drum sand to final thickness
- Cut parts to final width and length at the table saw/miter saw
- Rabbet long-side ends (likely on the shaper, but I have admittedly not decided which tool to use yet)
- Dado all parts for drawer bottoms (again my preference would be the shaper, but I have not come that far just yet)
- Dryfit/Check for Square
- Glue-up
- Paint *(Wife's choice, I would have preferred clear coat on maple, and painting only the fronts and face frames myself)
- pre-drill for slides and install
Unfortunately, I'm not sticking to one process at a time, exactly, but taking each 12' board through parts 1-4 in a round, and then stacking them next to the drum sander (which still needs a new dust shroud built). So much for efficiency...
I took care earlier this week to do a proper set up of the bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, purchased summer 2023) via the Snodgrass method, because i figured it would be easier on the ears and on the back to run the parts through the bandsaw as opposed to taking 3/8" or so off each board in 6-8 passes through the planer. Hopefully less of a racket as well for the neighbours to deal with by running the bandsaw and the drum sander, both of which are considerably quieter than the jointer and planer. (An additional task assigned to justify the newly purchased (used) drum sander was only half in the brain as well. If my wife asks, I need to run them through the drum sander, there's no other way!)
The bandsaw worked ok as set up, but not good enough to run this number of parts through. I have previously resawed (resawn?) oak on this saw with much nicer results while set up stock with very little tuning, but for some reason I was getting an awful lot of chatter and a rough finish out of this poplar. After some reading, I decided it was worth it to try the higher blade speed setting on the saw, so I took a few minutes to swap the belt onto the back set of pulleys. From what I read, the higher speed might be a benefit in harder woods; While I know, poplar isn't the hardest of the hardwoods, it felt like a worthy endeavor to try and run the higher blade speed.
Well the speed increase is noticeable, sounding initially like a freaking jet engine taking off. The saw levelled out but then developed an intermittent squealing sound almost immediately. I reset all of the guide bearings away from the blade, spun the wheels both by hand, played with the drive belt tension both up and down and I cannot reproduce the sound with the saw off, but it's certainly there when it's running, albeit as I said, intermittently. Against my better judgement relating to the ugly sounds the saw made under no load, I set all my guide bearings again and decided to grit my teeth through a test cut on one of the pieces of poplar... The finish quality was noticeably much nicer at the higher speed, but the sound was still ugly.
I determined that I would drop back down to the slower blade speed and see if that solved my sound issues. Alas, it did not, but that brought me to lunch, so I decided it was time to take a break. I have yet to get back out there, but I am under a deadline to get at least the first set of drawers finished here soon. I will have to spend some hours out there this week to pull the saw out into a more open area to start diagnosing, and then see where to go next with the project, because I need to have that dishwasher installed before my surgery in T-minus-6 weeks.
Been dealing with the fuckup fairy too much these past few weeks.
Several years ago I made a size table of 1/2 overlay doors/drawer faces for my kitchen. Then I made one for 3/4, and a copy of the 3/4....
Guess which one I went off of in December?
Not much fun trying to shave off 1/8" on finished drawer faces. I'm assuming it will be less fun to shave 1/16 of the two large doors. Then I get to respray every thing I JUST finished today!
Several years ago I made a size table of 1/2 overlay doors/drawer faces for my kitchen. Then I made one for 3/4, and a copy of the 3/4....
Guess which one I went off of in December?
Not much fun trying to shave off 1/8" on finished drawer faces. I'm assuming it will be less fun to shave 1/16 of the two large doors. Then I get to respray every thing I JUST finished today!
jar944
Well-known member
I "shortened" all the drawer fronts 1/4" total by running all them through the TS set to 6.125, then flipped the stack around and ran them all set to 6". Not noticable as I already had narrow rails, but sucked because everything was finished.
I need to do stiles on 2 larger doors, plus the false fronts on top of those doors. Would have been easier if I hadn't drilled for hinges already, I think I can get by with 1/16" off the center only. This would leave 1/8" gap and match the rest of the double doors.
Hoping a few stiles "off" by 1/16" isn't noticeable, otherwise have to plug and reconfigure the hinge bore. Thankfully the other door covers a slide out trash bin, so no hinges.
Shaved the false drawers 1/16" and taped everything in place. Not sold on it, may take another 1/16" off and open the center up a little tomorrow. Either way start with the cheaper wood first in case this goes further sideways....
This pic is a good reminder that upper right drawer got tightened crooked.
This pic is a good reminder that upper right drawer got tightened crooked.
Finished the last 4 doors today (needed a couple coats of satin, as I had switched after they were done in matte). Kitchen cabinets are done, with the exception of 1 drawer box.
I goofed when I made it a few years back (ran the fronts as sides/sides as fronts, made the dims off 1 1/4") and it's been on a shelf since. Tried to save it with some undermount slides yesterday, no matter what I did something was off. Short of using spacers or mounting slides flat it needs to be made over. I'll get some maple tomorrow, worst part is buying another sheet of plywood
I goofed when I made it a few years back (ran the fronts as sides/sides as fronts, made the dims off 1 1/4") and it's been on a shelf since. Tried to save it with some undermount slides yesterday, no matter what I did something was off. Short of using spacers or mounting slides flat it needs to be made over. I'll get some maple tomorrow, worst part is buying another sheet of plywood
Bessy
Well-known member
Contacted tech support for the Rikon bandsaw issue I was having last week. I send a message to the tech support people and tell them all that I've done to troubleshoot it, and they say "send us a video of the motor running without a load on it, so we can hear the sounds it's making". Cool, easy peasy.
But do you think I can get it to replicate the damn sound for the camera? No dice, purs like a kitten. I put everything back together, and try a few test cuts, and the sound comes back.
Meanwhile I KNOW that it's a motor issue. Yes the sound is worse under load, but while camera shy, it's still present when I detension the belt, and run the motor without the wheels connected. I know that I've had it make the sound while not under load, but I can't seem to replicate it in order to send a video.
I'm going to make hay while the sun shines and continue cutting the drawer parts out while I wait to catch it back in the act, I guess.
But do you think I can get it to replicate the damn sound for the camera? No dice, purs like a kitten. I put everything back together, and try a few test cuts, and the sound comes back.
Meanwhile I KNOW that it's a motor issue. Yes the sound is worse under load, but while camera shy, it's still present when I detension the belt, and run the motor without the wheels connected. I know that I've had it make the sound while not under load, but I can't seem to replicate it in order to send a video.
I'm going to make hay while the sun shines and continue cutting the drawer parts out while I wait to catch it back in the act, I guess.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
I unpacked some new wood (Wenge) and am now pondering if one piece is really Wenge or something else. That front piece is not as dark as I expected. Weighs significantly less as well.
Yeah, one of those things is not like the in other....I unpacked some new wood (Wenge) and am now pondering if one piece is really Wenge or something else. That front piece is not as dark as I expected. Weighs significantly less as well.
I haven't played with any exotic woods in a while. Frankly some of them scare me, I know someone who was severely allergic to a few
Yeah that looks like wenge in reverse. I’ve never seen it look like that, but who knows? Did you buy it online?I unpacked some new wood (Wenge) and am now pondering if one piece is really Wenge or something else. That front piece is not as dark as I expected. Weighs significantly less as well.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
Yes... They are but specifically a hardwood vendor. The weight is way off as well. Someone suggested sapwood to me.
Ohio Andy
Well-known member
I dropped them a message since they're not open right now... The wood arrived while I was working and by the time I stopped working they were closed. We'll see what they say
I've seen that light wood before, can't recall what it was, but it sure as hell isn't wenge, as I've installed a vanity with wenge accents
Edit: Google lense says wenge on the overall pic, and if I narrow the field to the dark. It thinks the light is laminate or vinyl flooring. I have to say, it was damn spot on with the flooring color match too
Cut the drawer pieces down to length. I clearly marked "F" and "S" on both sides of all 4pcs to give my self a chance of not running them backwards this time.
Started to setup the lock bit in the router, got it darn close the first try then started "improvements" and lost it from there. I think my setup block is bad, I remember struggling last time to get it dialed (which is probably how I ran a box worth of stock backwards).
Try again tomorrow. Looks like rain all weekend so probably get a few sheets of plywood at some point to bang out some shop cabinets.
Started to setup the lock bit in the router, got it darn close the first try then started "improvements" and lost it from there. I think my setup block is bad, I remember struggling last time to get it dialed (which is probably how I ran a box worth of stock backwards).
Try again tomorrow. Looks like rain all weekend so probably get a few sheets of plywood at some point to bang out some shop cabinets.
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