Show us your sewing projects!
- Thread starter nine4gmc
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Wow! That looks "as good as new," as they say.
Funny you should mention that. I have been meaning to ask you if you were working in latex gloves with all that white. I don't have a pristine workshop to begin with and while I was of course aware of inadvertently transferring grease, grime, oil, sweat etc from hands to leather work pieces, one thing I have noticed is how easy it stains even when it's darker.
Thanks! No latex gloves lol but I hope it holds up OK. I read a ton of reviews and supposedly this vinyl cleans pretty easily.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
By no means a pro just learning really. I love those wallets and that you repurposed the old gloves. Ive been holding onto my dad's leather briefcase going on four decades thinking about what I could make it into...
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
While I was in a groove, and had materials, I made two more, both also Rawlings, for fun (and perhaps flipping!), and the last one - a Louisville, for myself!
My youngest son posted his on Instagram - and I got bombarded with requests from his friends, former teammates, and/or their dads. I will cease and desist from spamming the thread with my new side gig cottage industry products.
My youngest son posted his on Instagram - and I got bombarded with requests from his friends, former teammates, and/or their dads. I will cease and desist from spamming the thread with my new side gig cottage industry products.
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kerrynzl
Well-known member
Great work.
Here is a little tip for you [please test this on an off cut first] Use a green colored Bic ballpoint pen to mark the vinyl.
With green pens the ink washes off with methylated spirits and doesn't leave a shadow mark
Also methylated spirits is a good cleaning agent for vinyl.
Vinyl [PVC] will constantly dry. Which is why you get that "new shower curtain smell" ,so dress that vinyl with Armor-All
This is the reason why the tops of the rear seats in cars perish [the most lucrative repair in the car upholstery business]
Thanks for the compliment ,but we all learn something from others.
I've only just learned how to do "baseball stitching". [I posted a shift knob previously ..... It was my first attempt ever]
If you want to up your game , use a ruler and a pocket calculator to mark and space the stitching evenly. [I did this on my shift knob] People only see the surface.
Even though this thread is about sewing, 90% of it is preparation, and not actual sewing. The one I previously posted was all about woodwork and shaping foam
Like a paint job, the cover will accentuate the flaws underneath.
At my last job interview ever , I was asked what skill could I bring on board if they hired me??
I said "In the last 20 plus years, I have developed the amazing skill of measuring **** properly" [true story and exact words]
I got the job.
This ^^^ skill applies to everything [woodwork, mechanics, engineering etc etc]
Also not all fabric jobs involve sewing skills. [you can do amazing things with a heat gun and stapler]
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FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Yeah, I know, and they make a punch now that looks like a very wide fork, with evenly spaced tines, you strike it and it makes all the evenly spaced holes at once.
Yes! I just forgot to post. He just started his first job out of college, living with his brother, our oldest son, and family in Chevy Chase, MD. Of course that son saw it and now knows what is inside the present I wrapped up and left for him when we dropped the younger one off. LOL.
Thanks. I can't take credit. I will take a little by saying that neither the source I was tipped off to or the numerous ones I saw on eBay do the lacing. I personally think that makes the whole look.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Asking opinions of you "cushion" guys:
I have that 16" square "pillow cover" and now have the 2" foam to make it a seat pad. While I've stuffed many, many such cushions in my HS upholstery days, those were cut and stitched with some depth and sides, and were setup for deeper foam, 4-5" or more.
And yes, in theory I can make a new back and get that depth, but I'm lazy and cheap don't want to invest more $$ or fabric or time on this.
I have that 16" square "pillow cover" and now have the 2" foam to make it a seat pad. While I've stuffed many, many such cushions in my HS upholstery days, those were cut and stitched with some depth and sides, and were setup for deeper foam, 4-5" or more.
And yes, in theory I can make a new back and get that depth, but I'm lazy and cheap don't want to invest more $$ or fabric or time on this.
- For just 2" thick do I cut the foam to 16" square and count on the cover to taper things at the edges?
- Should I cut the foam smaller, say 15"?
- Should I stay at 16" ad "bevel" the foam to make it easier to fit and stitch shut?
- Other?
Fwiw I'd start slightly oversized maybe 1/4" or so on each face and let foam compress a little so it expands inside cover and completely fills in. You can always cut smaller or contour edges if needed. In my project I'm reusing old foam which seems true to size. I'm also covering foam with a "silk" (really some sort of plastic) cushion film which makes it a bit easier to get cover on and provides some water protection. You can use a vacuum with the film to reduce size of foam to make it even easier to get inside the cover but I haven't actually done that.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The cover is 16X16, and as mentioned no sides,m so "filing" the cover won't be a problem, and at 16" is likely too big as I'l "lose" an inch on each side, top and bottom. thinking about it I'm more concerned with having the foam over compressed in length and with and being wavy/lumpy.
Yeah we used to cover the foam with a thin layer of dacron. I was never told why that I recall, just to do it, but I suspect partly to allow us to get the fabric smooth.
We also steamed the old foam to "fluff" it - It was always amazing how well that worked. I even bought a steamer decades ago they are so handy...
kerrynzl
Well-known member
When you say "no sides" but it is 16 x 16 with 2" thickness the best method is to "box" the corners.
You turn the cover inside out, pull the cover out and sew a 2" dart on the corners.
But seeing you are self confessed lazy
I would taper the foam [but this will show up lumpy]The best method is 2 pieces [1"] and taper it in the center and glue them back to back.
I was going to suggest dacron [hollow fill] , this is normally used to push out wrinkles but doesn't cause distortion of shape.
Another trick is to use pieces of plastic bags on the corners [it reduces friction and allows foam to push into the corners easier]
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I like this solution! simple and quick. I was thinking remove the back and full remake, - too much hassle, for a camp chair cushion.
It also eliminates all the guesswork from the foam size.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Finished the cushion, I went all out and installed a zipper too:
Pillow converted to seat cushion, for the folding wood chair I fixed up for camp:
And completed the quick sheath for a new to me hunting knife. - I may redo the strap, it's not exactly what I wanted. The blade section is three layers, the folded top an bottom and I "laminated" in a spacer so the grip doe not cause the belt loop to band back permanently:
Pillow converted to seat cushion, for the folding wood chair I fixed up for camp:
And completed the quick sheath for a new to me hunting knife. - I may redo the strap, it's not exactly what I wanted. The blade section is three layers, the folded top an bottom and I "laminated" in a spacer so the grip doe not cause the belt loop to band back permanently:
kerrynzl
Well-known member
Finished the cushion, I went all out and installed a zipper too:
Pillow converted to seat cushion, for the folding wood chair I fixed up for camp:
And completed the quick sheath for a new to me hunting knife. - I may redo the strap, it's not exactly what I wanted. The blade section is three layers, the folded top an bottom and I "laminated" in a spacer so the grip doe not cause the belt loop to band back permanently:
Fantastic Results!!
WoodsTruck
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Not sure if this counts as sewing but repaired sagging headliner in wife's car (sunroof shade). The fabric was pretty dirty from old foam/glue so I used a piece of silver vinyl that I bought for my boat. Matches pretty good!
Old cloth
New vinyl
Old cloth
New vinyl
logical
Well-known member
First (and so far last) time I ever touched a sewing machine was a few years back. I draped a dozen or so Delta Airlines blankets on my car the way I've seen designers use a dressform....and just started marking, cutting, and sewing.
WoodsTruck
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My dad is getting thin in his old age. He bought some dining chair seat cushions but couldn't find anything for the back.
He cut out a template and marked the stiles for me then sent it via USPS.
I picked up some plaid fabric that didn't quite have to match and put together a couple back pads for him. He's more than pleased.
He cut out a template and marked the stiles for me then sent it via USPS.
I picked up some plaid fabric that didn't quite have to match and put together a couple back pads for him. He's more than pleased.
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That's awesome I'm sure it means more to him than you realize. Well done.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I made several bags this summer for motorcyclists who want light, yet strong luggage options. A lot of the motorcycle luggage market geared toward off-road riding pushes overly complicated and overbuilt stuff. Yes, it's very rugged, but the empty luggage can weigh 15+ lbs. When riding a light dirt bike or dual sport on a multi-day trip, camping off the bike, many are craving something that will cut the carried weight. It makes a huge difference on the trails when you can cut packed weight.
I like using Challenge Sailcloth's Ultra800 for saddlebags, and Ultra400 or 200 for tail bags or tank bags. It's a very tough material, with abrasion and cut resistance that is better than equivalent Cordura fabrics, while being slightly lighter. It's also completely waterproof when seam taped properly.
Most of these weigh around 250-350g, a tiny fraction of the commercially available options. I run a pair of Ultra800 saddlebags on my dual-sport rides, and have been down a few times with them. They hold up very well. The most likely damage to occur is from the contents of the bag - hard edged items rubbing on the laminate layer. Careful packing can easily mitigate this issue, but any damage is easily repairable with PET tape that is also used to seam seal the bags.
Here are some that I've made recently:
20L roll-top saddlebags:
18L roll-top saddlebags and Cordura tool pouch:
35L double-ended duffle (tail bag) in Ultra400:
15L roll-top bags in 1000D Multicam Cordura, all USA made components:
Small (~10L) backpack/carry-all in Ultra200. The gentleman I made it for ended up requesting another for his friend because he liked it so much:
Tank panniers in Ultra800 (13"x8"x4"):
I am working on an EDC sling bag for a friend next, then a new backpack for myself.
I like using Challenge Sailcloth's Ultra800 for saddlebags, and Ultra400 or 200 for tail bags or tank bags. It's a very tough material, with abrasion and cut resistance that is better than equivalent Cordura fabrics, while being slightly lighter. It's also completely waterproof when seam taped properly.
Most of these weigh around 250-350g, a tiny fraction of the commercially available options. I run a pair of Ultra800 saddlebags on my dual-sport rides, and have been down a few times with them. They hold up very well. The most likely damage to occur is from the contents of the bag - hard edged items rubbing on the laminate layer. Careful packing can easily mitigate this issue, but any damage is easily repairable with PET tape that is also used to seam seal the bags.
Here are some that I've made recently:
20L roll-top saddlebags:
18L roll-top saddlebags and Cordura tool pouch:
35L double-ended duffle (tail bag) in Ultra400:
15L roll-top bags in 1000D Multicam Cordura, all USA made components:
Small (~10L) backpack/carry-all in Ultra200. The gentleman I made it for ended up requesting another for his friend because he liked it so much:
Tank panniers in Ultra800 (13"x8"x4"):
I am working on an EDC sling bag for a friend next, then a new backpack for myself.
WoodsTruck
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Good to know about that material. I'm the build it overkill camp on most of my projects and yes, they get heavy.
Very nice.I made several bags this summer for motorcyclists who want light, yet strong luggage options. A lot of the motorcycle luggage market geared toward off-road riding pushes overly complicated and overbuilt stuff. Yes, it's very rugged, but the empty luggage can weigh 15+ lbs. When riding a light dirt bike or dual sport on a multi-day trip, camping off the bike, many are craving something that will cut the carried weight. It makes a huge difference on the trails when you can cut packed weight.
I like using Challenge Sailcloth's Ultra800 for saddlebags, and Ultra400 or 200 for tail bags or tank bags. It's a very tough material, with abrasion and cut resistance that is better than equivalent Cordura fabrics, while being slightly lighter. It's also completely waterproof when seam taped properly.
Most of these weigh around 250-350g, a tiny fraction of the commercially available options. I run a pair of Ultra800 saddlebags on my dual-sport rides, and have been down a few times with them. They hold up very well. The most likely damage to occur is from the contents of the bag - hard edged items rubbing on the laminate layer. Careful packing can easily mitigate this issue, but any damage is easily repairable with PET tape that is also used to seam seal the bags.
Here are some that I've made recently:
20L roll-top saddlebags:
18L roll-top saddlebags and Cordura tool pouch:
35L double-ended duffle (tail bag) in Ultra400:
15L roll-top bags in 1000D Multicam Cordura, all USA made components:
Small (~10L) backpack/carry-all in Ultra200. The gentleman I made it for ended up requesting another for his friend because he liked it so much:
Tank panniers in Ultra800 (13"x8"x4"):
I am working on an EDC sling bag for a friend next, then a new backpack for myself.
As for stuff rubbing from the inside, a lining can help a lot. Lets everything move relative to each other. It can also gives a way to add a pocket, which can make finding small things easier, and you can use a different color, either as fashion (team colors?) or practical— it’s easier to see inside a light colored bag.
draco_1967
Well-known member
For sure! I tend to use smaller stuff sacks to group gear together within the main bag, but I have used a liner for the bag that carries my cook kit, as that is has the most hard-edged stuff in it.
I line my tank bags with a bright colored lightweight rip-stop to help see the contents and protect the laminate.
I line my tank bags with a bright colored lightweight rip-stop to help see the contents and protect the laminate.
danielbuck
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not that complicated, but working with this big fabric was interesting. my lady and I made a curtain to close over our main firewood rack to keep the rain spray off of it during the winter (we pretty much only get rain in the winter). waterproof fabric, hopefully it lasts more than a few years, I think it will. This fire wood rack is 16' wide and about 7' tall or so.
The debris from the tree on the right side has built up so much since I made the fire wood rack that I need to rake it back, the curtain will then not touch the ground on that side.
The debris from the tree on the right side has built up so much since I made the fire wood rack that I need to rake it back, the curtain will then not touch the ground on that side.
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
I dabble in leather.
Francis the shrunken head.
Fanny pack made entirely from a Springfield Leather “Ugly Bundle”
A bunch of odds and ends I don’t have photos of.
Francis the shrunken head.
Fanny pack made entirely from a Springfield Leather “Ugly Bundle”
A bunch of odds and ends I don’t have photos of.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
GarageHobbyist
Well-known member
They still sell it. Roughly 50 Square feet total. Really wild always changing mix. Pieces are all decent size and not "scrap" type cuts. You get one piece of Veg Tan big enough for a wallet, and they throw in a small piece of exotic leather (Mine was a piece of Teal Gator).
Ugly Leather Bundle - 50 ft
Now includes a piece of veg tan leather large enough for a wallet back!Springfield Leather just bought another incredibly large bunch of really nice leather...but it was contingent upon us taking some other leather that was somewhat less than really nice.... Actually, it's not that bad, because...
springfieldleather.com
Off the top of my head there was the white leather and black animal print shown in the photo, a piece of patent teal, heavy matte black (almost rubber like), a small piece of teal gator, 1 black kidskin, 1 blood red kidskin, a medium gray piece, a rustic sheepskin, thick perforated black (will make a great camp stool), an off white piece, a "vintage denim" color, lime green suede, and some others I am forgetting.
The only piece I thought was a dud out of the whole thing was a metallic pink and orange piece with a pattern over it. I started making my daughter a small purse/bag and it was just flaking/rubbing off the pattern. Luckily this was a smaller piece and didn't make up a lot of the bundle.
Still a great deal otherwise, and it's a great way to challenge yourself and have some unique/weird/fun leather on hand.
JP_CA
Well-known member
We installed seat covers on my wife's CX-5 a few months ago and they've been great so far. The one exception is that the seatbacks on the rear 60/40 bench rub together when you drive, and the material on the seat covers has a bit of "tooth" to it, so you hear a pretty loud fabric rubbing sound.
Really quick and dirty, but I bought some softer material and sewed it in between. Machine-sewing this was not an elegant process at all, and it shows in the result . . . but it worked! Quiet so far! Keep in mind, this also goes between the seats and can't be seen in the vehicle.
Made a super rough pattern:
Serged it out:
Pinned:
LOL . . not my finest . .
Really quick and dirty, but I bought some softer material and sewed it in between. Machine-sewing this was not an elegant process at all, and it shows in the result . . . but it worked! Quiet so far! Keep in mind, this also goes between the seats and can't be seen in the vehicle.
Made a super rough pattern:
Serged it out:
Pinned:
LOL . . not my finest . .
JP_CA
Well-known member
Next up . . making a garment. I've been wanting to make a pair of "puffy pants" for camping etc. But you know what they say - you have to start small.
So I started small. Really small.
I freehanded a pattern which definitely did NOT match up. But the point of the exercise was to determine which seams need to be done in what order. I could've looked this up but much prefer to learn by doing.
First and second seams done. I stitched these SUPER loose in case I had to pick the seams and redo them in a different order.
Pants finished (and trimmed to match front to back, LOL)!
And, now that they're together, I can flip them and mark the seam order. Now these are a tool!
Yeah, technically there are 5 seam operations, but 1-2-3 is clear enough for me.
So I started small. Really small.
I freehanded a pattern which definitely did NOT match up. But the point of the exercise was to determine which seams need to be done in what order. I could've looked this up but much prefer to learn by doing.
First and second seams done. I stitched these SUPER loose in case I had to pick the seams and redo them in a different order.
Pants finished (and trimmed to match front to back, LOL)!
And, now that they're together, I can flip them and mark the seam order. Now these are a tool!
Yeah, technically there are 5 seam operations, but 1-2-3 is clear enough for me.
JP_CA
Well-known member
So, on to the real thing!
I went to 3 thrift stores and grabbed a number of puffy jackets. I ended up with all polyester fill garments, no down, which made this a slightly cleaner process. Down is better, but my wife doesn't get that cold and doesn't need down pants. Anyway . . let the fun begin!
I used some of her jeans to create a basic pattern for one leg on paper, then used that (with added seam allowance) to create panels.
I started by deconstructing the jackets - taking sections of the fronts, backs, isolating pockets, opening up sleeves, etc. The serger was putting in the hours . . or the inches . . or whatever
I made one panel at a time, checking against the pattern to see if I had enough material.
And, just like that (a few days later), I had 4 panels!
I started pinning and sewing them together:
And, voila . . pants. I added a zipper and retained a drawstring and snap from one of the jackets, so that she can get into them and still cinch down the waistband.
To be frank, I am super proud of how these came out, and my wife was even more excited than I was. She was beside herself and hasn't stopped telling people about the pants. It feels great!
The fit is good. I would've liked it to be slightly looser and didn't give myself enough room for seams, but she likes the fit. I'm just paranoid about the seams!
All of the seams are "unfinished" on the inside of the pants (serged and joined, but no rolled hems etc). I didn't line the pants. That's just beyond where I am right now with my sewing and would've required a lot more time than I wanted to put into this project. Room for future growth.
I went to 3 thrift stores and grabbed a number of puffy jackets. I ended up with all polyester fill garments, no down, which made this a slightly cleaner process. Down is better, but my wife doesn't get that cold and doesn't need down pants. Anyway . . let the fun begin!
I used some of her jeans to create a basic pattern for one leg on paper, then used that (with added seam allowance) to create panels.
I started by deconstructing the jackets - taking sections of the fronts, backs, isolating pockets, opening up sleeves, etc. The serger was putting in the hours . . or the inches . . or whatever
I made one panel at a time, checking against the pattern to see if I had enough material.
And, just like that (a few days later), I had 4 panels!
I started pinning and sewing them together:
And, voila . . pants. I added a zipper and retained a drawstring and snap from one of the jackets, so that she can get into them and still cinch down the waistband.
To be frank, I am super proud of how these came out, and my wife was even more excited than I was. She was beside herself and hasn't stopped telling people about the pants. It feels great!
The fit is good. I would've liked it to be slightly looser and didn't give myself enough room for seams, but she likes the fit. I'm just paranoid about the seams!
All of the seams are "unfinished" on the inside of the pants (serged and joined, but no rolled hems etc). I didn't line the pants. That's just beyond where I am right now with my sewing and would've required a lot more time than I wanted to put into this project. Room for future growth.
WoodsTruck
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I think you will enjoy the "puffy pants".
I made something similar about 20 years ago as I got tired of getting cold working out in the elements.
I used a wind-proof/waterproof fleece, it has a name but it is escaping me, and did something similar to what you made.
Releasing side zipper on each side so I can put them on over my pants without taking my boots off. Short legged enough so they stop at the tops of my insulated boots. I don't need the extra layer over the boots and it keeps them cleaner as the mud doesn't wick up the leg this way. If I am using them under my rain pants, no bibs, I can just slide my rain pants down, install or remove the puffy pants and then pull the rain pants back up.
I have used them for various projects including spur climbing trees in 18°F windy weather. I made a pair for my dad which he kept in his boat. Super nice to have a "sweatshirt" for your lower half sitting out in the fishing boat when the cold breeze comes up the lake.
I went one piece further though and installed a diamond in the crotch. This gives a bit more room for movement and cuts down the 4-corner seam which is hard to sew and creates a major stress point. Much like the Duluth Trading Post pants (Ball Room Pants - google their advertising).
Duluth:
What is the Crouch Gusset®, and why does it matter?
The Crouch Gusset® is Duluth’s answer to binding and blowouts. It’s an extra panel sewn in so you can squat, stretch and lunge without fear of splitting seams or pinching your private parts. Once you try it, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it.JP_CA
Well-known member
Noted on the gusset! That's smart!
WoodsTruck
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Also, I made the front of mine a little lower than the back. Makes it bunch up less if you are sitting down.
I also used a 2" strip of elastic velcro on each side to help "cinch" the waist band up. I didn't want any snaps/buckles on the sides so these lay flat and allow some take up.
If I end up making another pair, I will likely do a double knee with a heavy nylon section over the knees for kneeling and maybe across the rear to minimize any moisture absorption if sitting on something damp.
I sewed up a coated nylon bag (repurposed material) to keep these pants, a fleece sweatshirt, stocking cap and warm gloves in my toolbox of my pickup. Nice to have an additional thermal layer when I'm out and about.
For context, we took the kids to the in-laws one winter and the wife didn't bring any snow bibs. Drug the puffy pants out of the toolbox and she used them to pull the kids around the yard on the saucer.
I also used a 2" strip of elastic velcro on each side to help "cinch" the waist band up. I didn't want any snaps/buckles on the sides so these lay flat and allow some take up.
If I end up making another pair, I will likely do a double knee with a heavy nylon section over the knees for kneeling and maybe across the rear to minimize any moisture absorption if sitting on something damp.
I sewed up a coated nylon bag (repurposed material) to keep these pants, a fleece sweatshirt, stocking cap and warm gloves in my toolbox of my pickup. Nice to have an additional thermal layer when I'm out and about.
For context, we took the kids to the in-laws one winter and the wife didn't bring any snow bibs. Drug the puffy pants out of the toolbox and she used them to pull the kids around the yard on the saucer.
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WoodsTruck
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JP_CA
Well-known member
I have an old camera bag that I like the size and look of, but the padding has long since worn out, so I made a padded cube insert to give a little more structure and protection to the floppy bag.
Made a plan and went from there!
I cut pieces and marked a diamond pattern.
Started stitching the two canvas layers to the padding. This does crush the padding where the stitches are, but I figured it would be fine.
Also got to use the walking foot attachment for the first time - pretty neat for multi-layer stuff like this!
Sewed the edges quickly to finish them once everything had been trimmed:
And just like that, a cube appeared!
Fits well! A little snug with this camera + lens combination, but should be useable.
Just staving off the desire for a Domke bag if I'm honest . .
Made a plan and went from there!
I cut pieces and marked a diamond pattern.
Started stitching the two canvas layers to the padding. This does crush the padding where the stitches are, but I figured it would be fine.
Also got to use the walking foot attachment for the first time - pretty neat for multi-layer stuff like this!
Sewed the edges quickly to finish them once everything had been trimmed:
And just like that, a cube appeared!
Fits well! A little snug with this camera + lens combination, but should be useable.
Just staving off the desire for a Domke bag if I'm honest . .
JP_CA
Well-known member
Some animal or branch ripped the cover of our backyard couch and the tear really spread. This was a messy and unfun job, but I got it done! Fun to sew outside!
Had to make a little patch, so I used canvas and a piece of a plastic bag to make my own waterproof fabric. Scrappy I guess.
Had to make a little patch, so I used canvas and a piece of a plastic bag to make my own waterproof fabric. Scrappy I guess.
harley jim
Well-known member
Im helping my 15yr old great nephew fix up his first vehicle, he will get his license in two months! Its a 95 chevy.
He came up with this idea for the headliner, his idea, Im making it happen for him.
He's a country boy, and yes the buttons are 12ga shotgun brass, or in this case aluminum, he requested silver as opposed to the brass color.
As you can see, were 30 buttons short of completing it so we found two more boxes of the correct buttons, were going to discharge them saturday at a turkey shoot that a group is putting on as a fund raisers.
Ill post a Pic of it in the truck when completed. Thanks for looking.