Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
It is! Kudos to whoever thought of it first.
That's what I was thinking. Thanks, John.
Show us your sewing projects!
- Thread starter nine4gmc
- Start date
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@Private Lugnutz
Thanks for sharing this, I'll be buying a couple used ball gloves and doing this. Maybe able to get it done before Christmas as both kids played and love baseball!!! Thanksd
Thanks for sharing this, I'll be buying a couple used ball gloves and doing this. Maybe able to get it done before Christmas as both kids played and love baseball!!! Thanksd
WILD-BILL
Well-known member
I can't wait to see the finished product. Very cool.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Cool! Maybe we can trade notes. You might have better ways of doing things than me.
Thanks, Bill.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
UPDATE:
Phase II, Part 1: Outer Piece Prep, Patches
Just a couple quick notes...
/ Gloves/mitts are not just sewn and laced. There is a lot of glue/contact cement holding the leather to the backing and padding inside, and, believe it or not, it's still tacky years later after pulling it apart! I did not want to use any kind of solvent (acetone, etc) to dissolve it, out of concern for it seeping through to the good side. I settled on heating it up with a torch and scraping it off with a very sharp vintage SEECO blade scraper. I didn't get it all, but what remains is pretty much burnished smooth. These surfaces will be the inside of the billfold pouch, so I didn't want them even a little tacky.
/ I got the outside piece finished. I can see why some people are charging $375 for these. Removing the patches was tedious work, lifting each stitch, etc. And the sewing wasn't easy, either! I didn't have a leather/upholstery punch big enough for the Wilson "W" circle, so I had to cut that out by hand with a vintage No. 22 X-Acto. Same for the little MLB logo patch. I punched the stitching holes by hand, too. (I know there's a tool that has a line of them evenly spaced in various sizes, but I don't have one.) I did not measure and space, I eyed it up as best I could, and I am telling myself the imperfections will remind them I did it by hand.
Phase II, Part 1: Outer Piece Prep, Patches
Just a couple quick notes...
/ Gloves/mitts are not just sewn and laced. There is a lot of glue/contact cement holding the leather to the backing and padding inside, and, believe it or not, it's still tacky years later after pulling it apart! I did not want to use any kind of solvent (acetone, etc) to dissolve it, out of concern for it seeping through to the good side. I settled on heating it up with a torch and scraping it off with a very sharp vintage SEECO blade scraper. I didn't get it all, but what remains is pretty much burnished smooth. These surfaces will be the inside of the billfold pouch, so I didn't want them even a little tacky.
/ I got the outside piece finished. I can see why some people are charging $375 for these. Removing the patches was tedious work, lifting each stitch, etc. And the sewing wasn't easy, either! I didn't have a leather/upholstery punch big enough for the Wilson "W" circle, so I had to cut that out by hand with a vintage No. 22 X-Acto. Same for the little MLB logo patch. I punched the stitching holes by hand, too. (I know there's a tool that has a line of them evenly spaced in various sizes, but I don't have one.) I did not measure and space, I eyed it up as best I could, and I am telling myself the imperfections will remind them I did it by hand.
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Posted more pics in another thread but have been wanting to post here for a while now. My very first piece (repaired piping) on the new to me Juki!
Reupholstering boat started with a relatively easy cushion. Sides are a little loose in a couple spots but its all between other cushions. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Twelve more to go...
Reupholstering boat started with a relatively easy cushion. Sides are a little loose in a couple spots but its all between other cushions. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Twelve more to go...
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
UPDATE on the Baseball Wallet Glove Project
Phase II, Part 2: Sub-Assembly and Final Assembly
/ I sewed the credit card pockets and the ID/Other pocket to the interior, using contact cement along the edges first.
/ If you're wondering why the stitching is so far from the edge in some cases, I've been holding out a surprise on final assembly design, integrating the laces from the gloves/mitts. Here are the pieces punched out for lacing.
Unfortunately, the laces were very dry and brittle, even after soaking in Neats Foot oil...
...and I discarded the idea in favor of fresh, store-bought leather lacing. It was smaller than the lacing in the gloves, which slightly affected the overall look, where they seem just a tad farther apart than I would've liked, and I did have to deal with/cover up a few mistakes. I'm pretty happy with this, but I am giving myself a B.
Phase II, Part 2: Sub-Assembly and Final Assembly
/ I sewed the credit card pockets and the ID/Other pocket to the interior, using contact cement along the edges first.
/ If you're wondering why the stitching is so far from the edge in some cases, I've been holding out a surprise on final assembly design, integrating the laces from the gloves/mitts. Here are the pieces punched out for lacing.
Unfortunately, the laces were very dry and brittle, even after soaking in Neats Foot oil...
...and I discarded the idea in favor of fresh, store-bought leather lacing. It was smaller than the lacing in the gloves, which slightly affected the overall look, where they seem just a tad farther apart than I would've liked, and I did have to deal with/cover up a few mistakes. I'm pretty happy with this, but I am giving myself a B.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
In the "No rest for the weary" category, my schedule may have changed!
My wife, noticing the flurry of activity - and the pounding, asked what I was doing. I showed her, and she suggested giving it to our youngest son for his birthday this Saturday. He is fresh out of college, starting his first ever "real" job on September 10, down in Washington, DC, for a large accounting/consulting firm. The other two sons' birthdays are in September and November. The issue is that I wasn't making this one for the youngest. He was a catcher, and I've already hacked up a very old catcher's mitt and played around with a layout with him in mind. (It's hard to see but there's an illustration of a catch in his crouch ready to receive a pitch.) I have two days to make this one or spurn the missus!
My wife, noticing the flurry of activity - and the pounding, asked what I was doing. I showed her, and she suggested giving it to our youngest son for his birthday this Saturday. He is fresh out of college, starting his first ever "real" job on September 10, down in Washington, DC, for a large accounting/consulting firm. The other two sons' birthdays are in September and November. The issue is that I wasn't making this one for the youngest. He was a catcher, and I've already hacked up a very old catcher's mitt and played around with a layout with him in mind. (It's hard to see but there's an illustration of a catch in his crouch ready to receive a pitch.) I have two days to make this one or spurn the missus!
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snorvet
Well-known member
Just a little bit of hand stitching for knife sheaths and wallets.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Now THAT is A+ work!
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
^ Right? A frisson of excitement like electricity ran through me when I saw it. Too perfect. He was a catcher from 8 to 18!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'd bet neatsfoot oil would "raise" the catcher's image.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
I had the same thought, Outlaw. Right now it's drying from a very delicate cleaning with warm water and soap. But I am loathe to make the unembossed leather around it darker, which would have the opposite effect. I plan to experiment with the other embossings you see on the mitt that I am not using.
Three down ten more to go. Still getting used to machine. Some wrinkles but way better than before. Coming along as good as expected.
The vendor that I bought vinyl from sent me a yard of wrong color (red) figured I'd use it for the fabric pulls inside cushions since nobody will ever see it.
Had to modify the new staple gun as well it was shooting right through the vinyl. I pulled trigger and the driver was about 3/16 proud of the nose. Took a file and brought it down flush. Works fine.
The vendor that I bought vinyl from sent me a yard of wrong color (red) figured I'd use it for the fabric pulls inside cushions since nobody will ever see it.
Had to modify the new staple gun as well it was shooting right through the vinyl. I pulled trigger and the driver was about 3/16 proud of the nose. Took a file and brought it down flush. Works fine.
WoodsTruck
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You should be able to regulate the air pressure to calm down the stapler.
Tried that first. It was still overshooting at 60 psi but with pressure that low the driver wouldn't fully retract. It was driving staple straight through the vinyl even with pressure turned down. Works pretty good now.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I just started this one - got this at an estate sale as I liked the embroidered elk. but I'm not a "poofy, throw pillow guy":
So I ripped the bottom seam and un-stuffed it (tossed that and the case needs carefully cleaned) I'll get a new seat pad type cushion and after re-interning that, it will become the seat cushion for my small folding wood camp chair.
So I ripped the bottom seam and un-stuffed it (tossed that and the case needs carefully cleaned) I'll get a new seat pad type cushion and after re-interning that, it will become the seat cushion for my small folding wood camp chair.
rlitman
Well-known member
If the driver extends past the nose, perhaps there was supposed to be a non-marring plastic nose-piece that it staples through that's missing. That's how my Grex pin nailer works, though I can't find anything like that on Meite's site.
IDK I bought it new didn't come with a nose piece. It's a cheap China knockoff get what you pay for I suppose. I did read in comments before I bought that this may be an issue. I would have loved a Senco or Bea but they were 5x the price. Anyway its all good works fine just needed a little tuning.
WoodsTruck
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Sometimes there is a narrow ribbon of non-corrugated cardboard to help distribute the load of each staple. Not suitable for wet environments like a boat. I have used thin plastic to do the same thing. Again, some vinyl is rather thin and doesn't hold staples well.
There are erasers for rubbing glue residue off of leather, like this random amazon one: https://www.amazon.com/Springfield-Leather-Company-Purpose-Eraser/dp/B07T1DT17R?tag=atomicindus08-20
One of the things that surprised me about leather work is how much of it is glued together, mostly with Barge contact cement, so leatherworkers have tools for getting rid of the excess, or for cleaning stuff up when doing repairs.
It's all good. Five minutes with a file and it works fine. It was driving the staples nearly 1/8 below the surface of the backing board without the vinyl regardless of air pressure (enough to get it to fire). I think the driver length was out of spec or installed in piston incorrectly. Anyway, its all good. Stapler actually seems well built and works pretty good especially for the price (believe it was about $75).
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Yeah, I was watching a YouTube video boning up before I dove headlong completely based on nothing but intuition into this recent Baseball Glove Wallet obsession. It was helpful for thinking about the kinds of tools I would need, all of which I have accumulated. It was done by [I-Can't-Remember-the-Name] Leather Goods and basically an advertisement for Weaver tools, their sponsor, with some how-to in between.
Anyway, they had a proper tool that probably has a more proper name than scraper, but my SEECO blade scraper worked just fine.That's what the YouTuber was using. I used Gorilla. I discovered that the farther I went back with donor gloves and mitts, no glue. The catcher's mitt I just cannibalized, for example, which reminds me of a horseshoe crab shell, had no glue.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Back on the boat cushions after long holiday weekend. Four down nine to go. Feel like I'm starting to get into a bit of a groove and becoming more comfortable with my machine.
This cushion is open below and the backer was cracked. Replaced it with a piece of 1/2 PVC trim board, which I think is same as original. I added 1/4x20 stainless tee nuts to replace the original screws. Hopefully it won't crack again.
I'm taking the original cushions fully apart and using them to pattern new vinyl. This is the next cushion up for tomorrow.
Staple remover, pair of diagonal cutters and a single edge razor blade is pretty much all thats needed to remove cushions and disassemble.
This cushion is open below and the backer was cracked. Replaced it with a piece of 1/2 PVC trim board, which I think is same as original. I added 1/4x20 stainless tee nuts to replace the original screws. Hopefully it won't crack again.
I'm taking the original cushions fully apart and using them to pattern new vinyl. This is the next cushion up for tomorrow.
Staple remover, pair of diagonal cutters and a single edge razor blade is pretty much all thats needed to remove cushions and disassemble.
One of the sunpads is done the other cover is just about done but ran out of daylight. Should have these done tomorrow. The sunpads were most challenging yet but they came out pretty good. I made a few minor mods from factory but still follows original pattern.
Playing around with some graphics programs (Inkscape and separate Ink Stitch extension. Seems to be pretty sophisticated software for free (its an open source vector graphics editor and separate program that creates the embroidery files for the sewing machine). I think I actually have the files needed for the embroidery machine but just found out I won't be able to pick it up until next Sat.
Playing around with some graphics programs (Inkscape and separate Ink Stitch extension. Seems to be pretty sophisticated software for free (its an open source vector graphics editor and separate program that creates the embroidery files for the sewing machine). I think I actually have the files needed for the embroidery machine but just found out I won't be able to pick it up until next Sat.
The port side sunpad kicked my **** lol. I had it pretty much done but didn't like how it was turning out so started messing with it and made it worse. Scrapped the whole thing and made it again, this time with a fabric pull under the piping. Still not perfect and piping is pulled down a little too much but it is what it is at this point going to run with it.
Now I have to take the starboard side apart and add a fabric pull lol...
Just one more to go after that and I'll have all the horizontal seating done. The last one is really simple just one piece of vinyl and four seams in the corners. This one fills in the sunpad and is normally stowed away under one of the other pads.
Now I have to take the starboard side apart and add a fabric pull lol...
Just one more to go after that and I'll have all the horizontal seating done. The last one is really simple just one piece of vinyl and four seams in the corners. This one fills in the sunpad and is normally stowed away under one of the other pads.
IndyGarage
Well-known member
Fantastic on the boat cushions. Try using a heat gun on low heat or a hot blow dryer to smooth out the wrinkles.
Thank you.
vpd66
Well-known member
Are you cutting relieves in the seam allowance when sewing the cording on the radius? I also like to use a stitcher style stapler to bast my my pieces together before sewing. This helps keep the material from pulling while sewing.
WILD-BILL
Well-known member
Be very careful using a heat gun even on low. There is a very fine line between hot enough to work out and burning the material. Also, no real warning signs it's about to go south.
Like everything else, practice on scrap before committing to your work.
Stem is safer as it won't burn the materiel.
Like everything else, practice on scrap before committing to your work.
Stem is safer as it won't burn the materiel.
All the seats are done! Took apart the other sun pad and sewed in a fabric pull under piping. It's much tighter.
All fits in my truck heading upstate now.
Been working on a panel for a door between two rear seats. Really happy with how its coming out. I so want to Sew this but rather be in the Adirondacks!
This is the door its repairing
All fits in my truck heading upstate now.
Been working on a panel for a door between two rear seats. Really happy with how its coming out. I so want to Sew this but rather be in the Adirondacks!
This is the door its repairing
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kerrynzl
Well-known member
It's been a while since I've posted here.
I did this Job a few months ago.
Me and an old high school friend have been dicking around with a "Racing Lawnmower" for his grandchildren.
This is now an organized sport with a club series in NZ.
This thing we built gets up to about 70kmh [40mph] on a grass oval, but with zero suspension [rules] it knocks you around a bit.
Because the seat has been lowered , we finish the race with really bruised hips [and a huge smile]
here is the problem [red lines]
so we cut some wooden hip bolsters that blind bolted thru into the fenders
I decided to multi layer the foam using high density carpet underlay foam
Whenever foam is laminated together it always looks like **** [the joins are visible]
so the edges get "capped" with soft foam strips, but only on the top visible edges
I did this Job a few months ago.
Me and an old high school friend have been dicking around with a "Racing Lawnmower" for his grandchildren.
This is now an organized sport with a club series in NZ.
This thing we built gets up to about 70kmh [40mph] on a grass oval, but with zero suspension [rules] it knocks you around a bit.
Because the seat has been lowered , we finish the race with really bruised hips [and a huge smile]
here is the problem [red lines]
so we cut some wooden hip bolsters that blind bolted thru into the fenders
I decided to multi layer the foam using high density carpet underlay foam
Whenever foam is laminated together it always looks like **** [the joins are visible]
so the edges get "capped" with soft foam strips, but only on the top visible edges
kerrynzl
Well-known member
Because the wood is seen from both sides I needed to cover the backs .
I used so really soft 3-way stretch vinyl for this.
The secret is not to fully glue it but only the edges AND play the waiting game letting both 1/2's of the contact glue dry.
This is the visible side
I used so really soft 3-way stretch vinyl for this.
The secret is not to fully glue it but only the edges AND play the waiting game letting both 1/2's of the contact glue dry.
This is the visible side
kerrynzl
Well-known member
Here is one side trial fit
With the foam caps .
The Foam stops short of the wood because I need this edge to staple
Marking and cutting out the covers
All the pieces ready to stitch together
Proof that this is a "Sewing Project"
With the foam caps .
The Foam stops short of the wood because I need this edge to staple
Marking and cutting out the covers
All the pieces ready to stitch together
Proof that this is a "Sewing Project"
kerrynzl
Well-known member
Top Stitching the borders was a challenge
Finished cover. I decided to top sew instead of piping because
1: I'm lazy
2: it creates a double stitch which takes more abuse
Trial fit and trim back [this shows the "french seam" used to join the border]
Staple on , then trim.
If you look closely you can see shadow lines from the laminated padding. This is on the underside where there is no foam on the edges.
Then I stapled some "Hidem" to cover the staples [the join was at the bottom side]
Finished cover. I decided to top sew instead of piping because
1: I'm lazy
2: it creates a double stitch which takes more abuse
Trial fit and trim back [this shows the "french seam" used to join the border]
Staple on , then trim.
If you look closely you can see shadow lines from the laminated padding. This is on the underside where there is no foam on the edges.
Then I stapled some "Hidem" to cover the staples [the join was at the bottom side]
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kerrynzl
Well-known member
Finished products ready to installed
Ready to do "battle" [grown men doing stupid ****
]
This wasn't a recover project but a simple "start to finish" project.
Most of the work involved was preparation [wood work, shaping foam etc] the actual "sewing the cover" content was minimal
The cover will seldom hide "sins" underneath , so spend time getting this part correct
Ready to do "battle" [grown men doing stupid ****
]This wasn't a recover project but a simple "start to finish" project.
Most of the work involved was preparation [wood work, shaping foam etc] the actual "sewing the cover" content was minimal
The cover will seldom hide "sins" underneath , so spend time getting this part correct
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