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DIY/Wood Car Stands(Cribbing)...Let's see them!

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dscheidt

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Apr 26, 2017
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2,875
I’m not worried about the cribbing, I’m worried about the 6-12" block I have to put on top of my jack to get in the next level of cribbing.


Where did they place the jacks? On top of other cribbing next to the corners? Apologies if I’m being dense.
Jack goes on its own pile of cribbing. that's why you use a jack with a vertical lift, because you don't want the jack moving horizontally.
 

mrvm

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Feb 12, 2014
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PA
Made some mid-height wood cribbing today with some 2x4s and 2.5”-3” construction screws. Built them 16x20 to handle the large Jeep tires 32”-35”. Appreciate any comments for improvement. I may add a center 2x4 at the very top for tire support when used with smaller vehicles in the fleet. Need to pickup a few more 2x4s to finish the last one. IMG_9360.jpegIMG_9359.jpeg
 

mrvm

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Added one 20” center 2x4 on each crib. Probably don’t need it but it looks more complete. The bottom of the big tire barely touches the center.IMG_9371.jpeg
 
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atch

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Apr 4, 2006
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841
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Columbia, Missouri
Just wondering why some guys are making the stands twice as wide as the tire?
I am guessing stability.

Two of mine are 2x8 and two are 2x10; thus 7 1/2" and 9 1/2" wide. They work just fine and when I made them I never considered that they might or might not be stable enough. Of course mine aren't nearly as tall as some shown here.
 
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Just Puttering

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Oct 28, 2018
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Vancouver, Canada
I am guessing stability.

Yup. The closer to square the better for stability, but totally square cuts into work space underneath and tripping hazards beside the car. These 16"x20" ones look super stable. When you see cars up on really high, 4' + cribbing, it is usually much closer to square and considerably wider than the tires.
 

75gmck25

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Jul 21, 2014
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Alexandria, VA
I'm going to hijack this thread with another question.

I want to replace the rear leaf spring bushings on my '75 GMC K25, and I've been trying to figure out how to safely lift the rear high enough to get the rear tires fully off the ground by about 5", then let the axle droop so I can remove/replace the leaf spring bushings. It worked on the front springs with a fairly short stack of cribbing under my hydraulic floor jack, but the frame and crossmember there is much lower than in the rear of the truck. I do not have a high lift (or farmer's) jack and probably wouldn't want to use one.
Removing the old bushings will require drilling out the old rubber bushings and then working under the truck beating on the bolts until they come out. Its not the kind of work you want to do under the truck unless things are very stable.

Possible choices for lifting the rear enough to have the axle hang free.

- Lift at the end of the truck with the jack under the receiver for the Class 3 trailer hitch. However, the bottom of the receiver is about 18" off the ground, and since its at the far end of the truck it takes quite a bit of vertical movement before you get the wheels off the ground. It will require a lot of cribbing to get my floor jack to lift high enough to bring the tires off the ground. It also raises both rear wheels at the same time from a single point, which is not very stable from left to right.

- Lift it under the frame, forward of the front spring eye. I have to go quite a distance forward of the axle to ensure I have space to place the jack and then remove/replace the front spring bushing. The one advantage is that it should allow me to do one side at a time, which keeps the truck more stable.

Thanks. I'm open to any input.
 

ATC

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May 12, 2012
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8,239
Location
VA
I'm going to hijack this thread with another question.

I want to replace the rear leaf spring bushings on my '75 GMC K25, and I've been trying to figure out how to safely lift the rear high enough to get the rear tires fully off the ground by about 5", then let the axle droop so I can remove/replace the leaf spring bushings. It worked on the front springs with a fairly short stack of cribbing under my hydraulic floor jack, but the frame and crossmember there is much lower than in the rear of the truck. I do not have a high lift (or farmer's) jack and probably wouldn't want to use one.
Removing the old bushings will require drilling out the old rubber bushings and then working under the truck beating on the bolts until they come out. Its not the kind of work you want to do under the truck unless things are very stable.

Possible choices for lifting the rear enough to have the axle hang free.

- Lift at the end of the truck with the jack under the receiver for the Class 3 trailer hitch. However, the bottom of the receiver is about 18" off the ground, and since its at the far end of the truck it takes quite a bit of vertical movement before you get the wheels off the ground. It will require a lot of cribbing to get my floor jack to lift high enough to bring the tires off the ground. It also raises both rear wheels at the same time from a single point, which is not very stable from left to right.

- Lift it under the frame, forward of the front spring eye. I have to go quite a distance forward of the axle to ensure I have space to place the jack and then remove/replace the front spring bushing. The one advantage is that it should allow me to do one side at a time, which keeps the truck more stable.

Thanks. I'm open to any input.

Got an engine hoist? Lift truck from the hitch.
 

csp

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Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
I'm going to hijack this thread with another question.
Lift it via the rear axle enough to remove the wheels and tires. Once they are off lower the frame onto jackstands or cribbing in front of the fixed end of the leaf springs enough so that the brake drums are almost touching the ground once you get the jack out from under the axle. Most of the weight will be on the jackstands with just the weight of the springs/axle on the jack and you can muscle that part up enough to get your jack out. You remove a lot of the height needed by removing the tires and wheels first.
 
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