lilscorpion
Well-known member
Takes me back. So many hours spent on what ends up the finer details very few will ever notice. Really nice build. 
Building a buggy: nobggrnchvy
- Thread starter bggrnchvy
- Start date
Picking away at the front end.
Turned down some HMS's so the rod ends on the mini tie rods will fit in tot he welded plates on the steering knuckles. I took it all off on one side to bias them just little bit closer to perfectly horizontal @ center.
I fit up the low profile upper shock mounts and mocked up a coilover to verify before I welded out the bump stop mounts. I should have 1/4" of clearance on the shock shaft even accounting for the bump stop integral pad deformation and the plate dipping 1/4". Also gives the upper control arms about 1/4" of clearance from the engine crossmember and the driver side upper link from the accessory bracket.
It all got welded out and my daughter stopped in for a few minutes to stare. Yes, I shouldn't be wearing sandals and she should have something to cover her legs, but she gets more UV rad swimming at my in laws for an afternoon
Waiting for a shipment from Goatbuilt with the front sway bar (and a bunch of other remaining items) to finish the front suspension so I jumped to the easy task of assembling the engine accessory brackets they make. Bolt on stuff is almost as fun as weld together kits
I went with Radial Dynamics for PS stuff this go around.
With the coilovers in front and back now I can figure out limit strap placement and get the adjusters in and the straps ordered.
Turned down some HMS's so the rod ends on the mini tie rods will fit in tot he welded plates on the steering knuckles. I took it all off on one side to bias them just little bit closer to perfectly horizontal @ center.
I fit up the low profile upper shock mounts and mocked up a coilover to verify before I welded out the bump stop mounts. I should have 1/4" of clearance on the shock shaft even accounting for the bump stop integral pad deformation and the plate dipping 1/4". Also gives the upper control arms about 1/4" of clearance from the engine crossmember and the driver side upper link from the accessory bracket.
It all got welded out and my daughter stopped in for a few minutes to stare. Yes, I shouldn't be wearing sandals and she should have something to cover her legs, but she gets more UV rad swimming at my in laws for an afternoon
Waiting for a shipment from Goatbuilt with the front sway bar (and a bunch of other remaining items) to finish the front suspension so I jumped to the easy task of assembling the engine accessory brackets they make. Bolt on stuff is almost as fun as weld together kits
I went with Radial Dynamics for PS stuff this go around.
With the coilovers in front and back now I can figure out limit strap placement and get the adjusters in and the straps ordered.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I don't do a huge amount of welding but I do it sitting down and I've given up wearing low shoes. One bit of molten metal landing between the shoe and sock was a painful lesson but I didn't learn (fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me). I do wear a leather apron.
Radiator showed up and I dropped the e-fan I procured onto it. The shroud fits great...just a little tall.
Off with its head. I put the fan on upside down (I'll have to close secure the flaps, but likely would have anyways) so it extends past the radiator on top instead of on the bottom which would interfere with the ram at full bump. A little time with the oscillating tool and an aluminum burr on a 1/4" grinder cleaned it up.
Got to work fitting the rad so I could see how the fan would fit the chassis. A little chunk of 3" al channel works to align the two tank saddles combined with some ratchet strap fixturing.
Test fit the fan and rad and it all clears. Not much room on top of the ram, but to be expected.
I already drew up the filler plates for the fan and grabbed some aluminum rod to turn into threaded bungs to weld to the rad tanks to secure the fan.
Off with its head. I put the fan on upside down (I'll have to close secure the flaps, but likely would have anyways) so it extends past the radiator on top instead of on the bottom which would interfere with the ram at full bump. A little time with the oscillating tool and an aluminum burr on a 1/4" grinder cleaned it up.
Got to work fitting the rad so I could see how the fan would fit the chassis. A little chunk of 3" al channel works to align the two tank saddles combined with some ratchet strap fixturing.
Test fit the fan and rad and it all clears. Not much room on top of the ram, but to be expected.
I already drew up the filler plates for the fan and grabbed some aluminum rod to turn into threaded bungs to weld to the rad tanks to secure the fan.
Lots of little bits.
Radiator and fan are buttoned up. I welded together the blank off plate and riveted to the fan shroud. It hooks to the radiator top lip. I turned some bosses and those got welded to the rad tanks to bolt the fan body on.
Otherwise it has been laying out the engine compartment.
I flipped the intake and made a hole in the firewall to bring the air filter into the people compartment. It's going to be louder, but it makes room up front, keeps water off the filter (as much as can be expected) and lets me run a good sized paper element filter. A long 4" aluminum 90 was cut down and I rolled the ends to retain it and then stuck the MAF on the end with the filter. It's all together but still needs an under dash mount.
The steering reservoir and vent PRV were mounted with an off cut from 4" exhaust section from mounting an exhaust brake in the Dodge, a leftover T-bolt clamp from the intake and section of 2x4 box tube.
Rad overflow went on with some shock reservoir mounts and a chopped up generic tab. Some 3/8" heat shrink, some measurement and trimming helps hose clamps not look so...much like hose clamps.
The DSC reservoirs fit the only place these long things fit.
Howe power steering cooler got the same treatment.
I took another section of 2x4 tube and made a mount for the steering filter.
The next mission is to mount the oil cooler and oil filter housing.
Radiator and fan are buttoned up. I welded together the blank off plate and riveted to the fan shroud. It hooks to the radiator top lip. I turned some bosses and those got welded to the rad tanks to bolt the fan body on.
Otherwise it has been laying out the engine compartment.
I flipped the intake and made a hole in the firewall to bring the air filter into the people compartment. It's going to be louder, but it makes room up front, keeps water off the filter (as much as can be expected) and lets me run a good sized paper element filter. A long 4" aluminum 90 was cut down and I rolled the ends to retain it and then stuck the MAF on the end with the filter. It's all together but still needs an under dash mount.
The steering reservoir and vent PRV were mounted with an off cut from 4" exhaust section from mounting an exhaust brake in the Dodge, a leftover T-bolt clamp from the intake and section of 2x4 box tube.
Rad overflow went on with some shock reservoir mounts and a chopped up generic tab. Some 3/8" heat shrink, some measurement and trimming helps hose clamps not look so...much like hose clamps.
The DSC reservoirs fit the only place these long things fit.
Howe power steering cooler got the same treatment.
I took another section of 2x4 tube and made a mount for the steering filter.
The next mission is to mount the oil cooler and oil filter housing.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking good. The little details take the longest, but will make or break a build. The devil's in the details and you are doing a great job with the details. 
Graham08
Well-known member
The heat shrink on hose clamps is a good trick! This is the sort of build thread I miss from the old offroadfabnet and Pirate 4x4 boards.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed. I liked offroadfabnet as well. Some really amazing work and talent on there.
Work continues and has.
Drew up and welded out an oil cooler mount. This plus mounting the oil filter housing on the firewall allowed me to start routing power steering, oil and reservoir hoses.
That lead to pulling them all out after marking clocking and depth, one at a time to crimp and then put them back in their homes. I dipped some 1/4-20 G8 cap screws in vinegar and welded them to tubes to use some cushioned stainless hose clamps to force some of the routing. Working on 3D printing some hose to hose clamps to help cleanup the pathing, but of course the nozzle jammed printing overnight Friday and took out some other parts, so I'm hoping to get those done this week now.
I bought the Goatbuilt exhaust kit and built out one side, added a v band to make install and clocking easier and then was promptly informed I might hate how loud it is. So the exhaust is now at a standstill. Considering putting the rear axle to full pump and seeing if I can fit a dual in/out chambered muffler under the rear seat and then putting mini-cats where the straight through mufflers are now. That means a lot of heat under the front seats though. Alternatively, I could switch these out for some Flowmaster Super HP2s, but I'm not sure how much quieter the 17" ones would be than the straight throughs on now. And yes, the tips will be trimmed back, just not sure where it's coming out now.
Front sway bar slid in. Knocked the last holes off the arm and cut down the provided axle side tabs. Also made some little skids/supports to try and keep them intact.
Other item of note, compressor fits behind the rear seat. I drew up another bracket, fudged the hole spacing (again), fixed it and got the compressor bolted in. Have not started thinking about wiring or plumbing on it yet.
Drew up and welded out an oil cooler mount. This plus mounting the oil filter housing on the firewall allowed me to start routing power steering, oil and reservoir hoses.
That lead to pulling them all out after marking clocking and depth, one at a time to crimp and then put them back in their homes. I dipped some 1/4-20 G8 cap screws in vinegar and welded them to tubes to use some cushioned stainless hose clamps to force some of the routing. Working on 3D printing some hose to hose clamps to help cleanup the pathing, but of course the nozzle jammed printing overnight Friday and took out some other parts, so I'm hoping to get those done this week now.
I bought the Goatbuilt exhaust kit and built out one side, added a v band to make install and clocking easier and then was promptly informed I might hate how loud it is. So the exhaust is now at a standstill. Considering putting the rear axle to full pump and seeing if I can fit a dual in/out chambered muffler under the rear seat and then putting mini-cats where the straight through mufflers are now. That means a lot of heat under the front seats though. Alternatively, I could switch these out for some Flowmaster Super HP2s, but I'm not sure how much quieter the 17" ones would be than the straight throughs on now. And yes, the tips will be trimmed back, just not sure where it's coming out now.
Front sway bar slid in. Knocked the last holes off the arm and cut down the provided axle side tabs. Also made some little skids/supports to try and keep them intact.
Other item of note, compressor fits behind the rear seat. I drew up another bracket, fudged the hole spacing (again), fixed it and got the compressor bolted in. Have not started thinking about wiring or plumbing on it yet.
Studs and clamps I used to route things 'cleanly.'
Engine oil filter head and filter. Filter clears the tube below it unthreaded by a millimeter maybe so it can still be installed/uninstalled full of oil without spilling. I couldn't make a sweep fittings work and had to resort to the block style 90's.
The nest of hoses I need to try and organize with the clamps to be printed. I'm in the middle of swapping out the steering valve for a larger displacement one, which when in place will help some on the firewall side.
Still plodding along.
I printed a bunch of PETG clamps to try and help route the hoses.
Black Friday bit me. Merry Christmas?
Trying to mount the air cleaner. Went off the t-bolt clamp thread, but I still think I need a support at the other end of the filter.
Goatbuilt brake assembly was welded together.
Then I installed all the driver controls. I've since got the column and gas pedal mounted too.
The limit strap adjusters needed a home so I grabbed a piece of 2x1 scrap I had and made some holes and carved it up to make some simple mounts.
I also reversed course on lighter brakes and went back to OEM big calipers. Too many friends recommended against the lightweight Dynalite calipers for applied clamping force.
I got the driveshaft flanges for the rear shaft, it looks like I can reuse a spare 1350CV shaft I've had for maybe 15 years by just swapping the cardan flange out. Waiting on Goatbuilt to send me the right carrier bearing mount kit (I ordered the wrong one the first time) so I can get the front shaft mocked up and then finalize my exhaust plans.
I printed a bunch of PETG clamps to try and help route the hoses.
Black Friday bit me. Merry Christmas?
Trying to mount the air cleaner. Went off the t-bolt clamp thread, but I still think I need a support at the other end of the filter.
Goatbuilt brake assembly was welded together.
Then I installed all the driver controls. I've since got the column and gas pedal mounted too.
The limit strap adjusters needed a home so I grabbed a piece of 2x1 scrap I had and made some holes and carved it up to make some simple mounts.
I also reversed course on lighter brakes and went back to OEM big calipers. Too many friends recommended against the lightweight Dynalite calipers for applied clamping force.
I got the driveshaft flanges for the rear shaft, it looks like I can reuse a spare 1350CV shaft I've had for maybe 15 years by just swapping the cardan flange out. Waiting on Goatbuilt to send me the right carrier bearing mount kit (I ordered the wrong one the first time) so I can get the front shaft mocked up and then finalize my exhaust plans.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking great. The stud style limiting strap clevis is the exact way we mounted the end of the limiting straps on my son's WJ build. Makes for a nice and slightly adjustable mounting system.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
Slick work on the clevis mount with the rect tube.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
They make it easy when you blow a coilover to 3 wheel back. Flip the threaded portion upside down in the receiver tube and you just made life a lot easier on the limp back.
I got the carrier bearing mount from Goatbuilt so I could move forward on driveshaft parts which will let me move ahead on exhaust. To start I had the old front driveshaft from my last crawler, 1350CV head and 2"OD .25w tube. I also had the 3.31 pinion from the SD60. Plan is to adapt the pinion to the driveshaft with a D60 companion flange readily available for $40 so can make a carrier bearing end and then mount another 1350CV head off that down tot he axle.
Step one, cut off pinion head.
Make sure companion flange splines fit.
If I put them next to each other maybe they will just magic into a finished piece? No, no luck.
Burned the GB mount together.
Coped the front bracket to fit the angles of the subframe. I measured it all out and the front and rear driveshafts to the axles should be within 1/2" of each other. The rear shaft has a custom flange from NWF to fit the 34spl shorty 205 output and another custom flange at the axle to convert the 14b to flange mount from Mark Williams. luckily they both use a 4.25" bolt pattern AND 2.68" pilot diameter. I have an old 1350CV driveshaft I bought maybe 15 years ago off Pirate that I've been storing ever since that will need the CV register bored, and will need to be lengthened ~6", but otherwise will bolt in as a rear shaft.
The plan is to either turn or print some spacers to upsize the 1.875" pilot on the D60 companion flanges to 2.68" to match and retain the 4.25" hole pattern. That way if I make a 4th driveshaft that is a carbon copy of the front in small diameter (2") it can be the spare for the front and the back.
I tossed the soon to be reused driveshaft in for mockup. I'll be cutting it off right about where the blue tape is. Waiting for the pillow block bearing to show up so I double check measurements.
This is the goal (stolen from GB), except instead of the yoke and single u-joint in the middle, it will be a second 1350CV. Also the intermediate shaft is longer on mine because of the Magnum crawl box.
Finally I put the GB front exhaust pipe onto the collector flange and slipped a Borla muffler on and it fits! I'll have to rework some of the rear and I'll be installing some V bands to make installation and clocking easier, but knowing it all will package is huge. It won't be silent, but these should be a bit better at deadening sound than the straight through glasspack units.
Continuing to turn boxes of parts into finished products, I rebuilt the 14b hubs.
Then I put in some new ebrake shoes, cut down the hub studs for the wheel spacer/bolt pattern adapter, assembled it all with rebuilt calipers and yes, I Loctite'd the wheel spacers on.
Step one, cut off pinion head.
Make sure companion flange splines fit.
If I put them next to each other maybe they will just magic into a finished piece? No, no luck.
Burned the GB mount together.
Coped the front bracket to fit the angles of the subframe. I measured it all out and the front and rear driveshafts to the axles should be within 1/2" of each other. The rear shaft has a custom flange from NWF to fit the 34spl shorty 205 output and another custom flange at the axle to convert the 14b to flange mount from Mark Williams. luckily they both use a 4.25" bolt pattern AND 2.68" pilot diameter. I have an old 1350CV driveshaft I bought maybe 15 years ago off Pirate that I've been storing ever since that will need the CV register bored, and will need to be lengthened ~6", but otherwise will bolt in as a rear shaft.
The plan is to either turn or print some spacers to upsize the 1.875" pilot on the D60 companion flanges to 2.68" to match and retain the 4.25" hole pattern. That way if I make a 4th driveshaft that is a carbon copy of the front in small diameter (2") it can be the spare for the front and the back.
I tossed the soon to be reused driveshaft in for mockup. I'll be cutting it off right about where the blue tape is. Waiting for the pillow block bearing to show up so I double check measurements.
This is the goal (stolen from GB), except instead of the yoke and single u-joint in the middle, it will be a second 1350CV. Also the intermediate shaft is longer on mine because of the Magnum crawl box.
Finally I put the GB front exhaust pipe onto the collector flange and slipped a Borla muffler on and it fits! I'll have to rework some of the rear and I'll be installing some V bands to make installation and clocking easier, but knowing it all will package is huge. It won't be silent, but these should be a bit better at deadening sound than the straight through glasspack units.
Continuing to turn boxes of parts into finished products, I rebuilt the 14b hubs.
Then I put in some new ebrake shoes, cut down the hub studs for the wheel spacer/bolt pattern adapter, assembled it all with rebuilt calipers and yes, I Loctite'd the wheel spacers on.
Previously I used Goatbuilts exhaust kit and ran the passenger side with a couple of v-bands added for clocking and ease of service (it's tight!).
I was made aware it's obnoxious with these little straight through mufflers. Instead of seeing for myself, I cut that muffler out and managed to fit both sides this weekend utilizing the same exhaust kit and some creative clocking. I made more room on the passenger side as the spare driveshaft is going to live there, where the blue line is. I stole the idea from GB, so don't give me any credit.
It all fits, it's just quite tight. 1/4" of clearance in a couple of places and in one place, that's because the muffler now has a 'strategic' dent.
Finally for the weekend, I got the old 1350CV shaft I've had kicking around forever setup for 4.25"BC and 2.68" pilots on both ends swapping in a Neapco centering yoke, a new Spicer lifetime 1350 (to replace the no-name greaseable it had on one side only?) in the CV head and a a Spicer flange to the straight 1350 end. Now all it needs is to be able 4" longer. I started cleaning up the weld to remove the tube, but realized, maybe I should just farm out the cut and retube to one of the local driveline shops.
Onto the front midship shaft next.
I was made aware it's obnoxious with these little straight through mufflers. Instead of seeing for myself, I cut that muffler out and managed to fit both sides this weekend utilizing the same exhaust kit and some creative clocking. I made more room on the passenger side as the spare driveshaft is going to live there, where the blue line is. I stole the idea from GB, so don't give me any credit.
It all fits, it's just quite tight. 1/4" of clearance in a couple of places and in one place, that's because the muffler now has a 'strategic' dent.
Finally for the weekend, I got the old 1350CV shaft I've had kicking around forever setup for 4.25"BC and 2.68" pilots on both ends swapping in a Neapco centering yoke, a new Spicer lifetime 1350 (to replace the no-name greaseable it had on one side only?) in the CV head and a a Spicer flange to the straight 1350 end. Now all it needs is to be able 4" longer. I started cleaning up the weld to remove the tube, but realized, maybe I should just farm out the cut and retube to one of the local driveline shops.
Onto the front midship shaft next.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
I had two of those Borlas on the Sonoma (6L LQ4, 3" pipe from ****** manifolds all the way back, H pipe) and it was awesome sounding, but LOUD. Ended up switching to dual Flowmaster Delta 50s
Bodj Built
Well-known member
I enjoyed the sound in the dirt, but I drive the truck a few hours on the highway to the desert, so it wasn't enjoyable. It was hard listening to music or talking to passengers. The Flowmasters weren't much longer
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 913
for me, driving is a way to NOT listen to people or music
Yea, that's probably going to be more more obnoxious than I will like. Something to change in the future likely.
Getting ready for a camping trip and fired up the tow rig this weekend to make sure all was well. It wasn't, had to drop in a radiator in a hurry. Got some items checked off though.
I turned down the 60 pinion and fit it to the remains of the old crawlers front shaft to make the midshaft.
Made some tabs with returns and mounted the S2 Pros on the A pillars.
I also picked up some BD dome lights and made some mounting tabs so there some light on demand up front and in the back.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
for me, driving is a way to NOT listen to people or music
I get that, but an offroading weekend will be 3-4 hours highway to where we hit dirt, followed by a couple of 6-8 hour days of high speed dirt driving (higher RPM), and then 3-4 hours back home.
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,018
Would those forward facing BD lights benefit with a wrap around guard to keep them from getting smacked and abused?
Another weekend, more items ticked off.
Intermediate shaft is in.
Snug.
I got a cheap Chicom SxS light bar for tail lights/brake lights. It's ok, low profile which is good. I made some tabs and then loomed the harness after depinning the connectors. I might scrap the deutsch connector they supplied, it's a really really cheap DT copy and the crimping on the pins is meh at best.
I just loomed it because the rats nest out of the box drove me crazy just mounted on the vehicle.
A couple of steering wheels later we identified the right depth and diameter to suit me and my wife in 2 seating positions, so I could mark, cut and then weld on the stub for the quick release.
After multiple layouts, at least one set of wrongly drilled holes (since welded up), I had the shifter configuration that fits. Just enough clearance for the transmission cable to fit through without loading the assembly and I had to get some longer t-case cables to allow the bend I needed to make. I welded bolts in from the bottom to make studs so I can install/remove these easier. The 205 is RIGHT under some of those and I can't even get my fingers in to spin the nut/washer on.
Controls feel really comfortable. I had 3 heights of people sit and test it and they all reported it felt very natural so hopefully I won't have to change it. Still have to work out the e-brake handle/pedal/something.
I don't think I've had an overall shot in...years. Here you go.
Intermediate shaft is in.
Snug.
I got a cheap Chicom SxS light bar for tail lights/brake lights. It's ok, low profile which is good. I made some tabs and then loomed the harness after depinning the connectors. I might scrap the deutsch connector they supplied, it's a really really cheap DT copy and the crimping on the pins is meh at best.
I just loomed it because the rats nest out of the box drove me crazy just mounted on the vehicle.
A couple of steering wheels later we identified the right depth and diameter to suit me and my wife in 2 seating positions, so I could mark, cut and then weld on the stub for the quick release.
After multiple layouts, at least one set of wrongly drilled holes (since welded up), I had the shifter configuration that fits. Just enough clearance for the transmission cable to fit through without loading the assembly and I had to get some longer t-case cables to allow the bend I needed to make. I welded bolts in from the bottom to make studs so I can install/remove these easier. The 205 is RIGHT under some of those and I can't even get my fingers in to spin the nut/washer on.
Controls feel really comfortable. I had 3 heights of people sit and test it and they all reported it felt very natural so hopefully I won't have to change it. Still have to work out the e-brake handle/pedal/something.
I don't think I've had an overall shot in...years. Here you go.
Yanked the front axle out and started the process of getting it geared, aka, making it heavier and harder to move around.
Ring gear torqued.
ARB test fit after I knocked out the SD shaft seals and put some 40spl seals in place.
I think I'm happy with that pattern. Just got my order of pinion baffles in this morning, so I'll put the final shim stack in and see if I can lock it in with a little tighter BL. The pattern seemed to center up heel to toe at .004, so I'll set it up tight and lap them in.
Before I pulled the front axle I drooped it out and took measurements for limit straps. I also added mounts in the back and took the same measurements.
The rear is a little sticky. I might need an elastic keeper to make sure the straps fold up similarly or the tabs swing left/right so it doesn't bind and bend something.
Finally the fuel cell needed modification to fit the larger GB plate. This lets me run a standard 6 bolt in tank sender and makes the opening a lot bigger for easier servicing. I just need a couple of replacement gaskets and a nut plate that's coming.
I think I'm going to leave the filler blank on there and use a recessed cap and put another hole in the back left or right corner. That way I minimize the amount of height a cargo rack takes up vertically.
Ring gear torqued.
ARB test fit after I knocked out the SD shaft seals and put some 40spl seals in place.
I think I'm happy with that pattern. Just got my order of pinion baffles in this morning, so I'll put the final shim stack in and see if I can lock it in with a little tighter BL. The pattern seemed to center up heel to toe at .004, so I'll set it up tight and lap them in.
Before I pulled the front axle I drooped it out and took measurements for limit straps. I also added mounts in the back and took the same measurements.
The rear is a little sticky. I might need an elastic keeper to make sure the straps fold up similarly or the tabs swing left/right so it doesn't bind and bend something.
Finally the fuel cell needed modification to fit the larger GB plate. This lets me run a standard 6 bolt in tank sender and makes the opening a lot bigger for easier servicing. I just need a couple of replacement gaskets and a nut plate that's coming.
I think I'm going to leave the filler blank on there and use a recessed cap and put another hole in the back left or right corner. That way I minimize the amount of height a cargo rack takes up vertically.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
I’ve found that the straps have a natural bend in them. I fold them according to this bend, and it gives the material memory to fold in that direction. I use a pair of 19” straps at each corner and haven’t had an issue. Most trophy trucks run the elastic band pulling them together, though.
Yes, depending on which side has the final overlap ends return to, it seems to want to fold on the seam between them on the backside so I laid them out that way. These are 14" in the back and 17" up front. The front ones should be easy, as they don't overlap. The rears though with passing over each other even out of plane concern me and I can't cycle the suspension quickly enough to truly see how they will work out. Something to stare at more.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
I wouldn't overthink it. I'm sure it'll be fine.
Among about 10 projects I have going on this rig right now, I jumped off the fuel system cliff.
First step(s) were to fit a GB fuel plate above to utilize an ebay score of a Aeromotive pump assembly that works with a GM fuel level sender. This also uses the normal 22 bolt opening.
Added a fill spot in the back so I don't necessarily have to remove everything to add some gas. I've since added the second gaskets to the fill with some longer G8 bolts and washers as well as the pump plate.
This is about where it came off the rails.
Here is the fuel pump assembly setup for this tanks height. All good.
This is their solution, designed for a factory truck tank for the road, it's a cylinder of foam with a soft sump at the bottom about 3" tall the pump pulls from.
I also have a Holley hydromat I had intended to use until I found this fuel pump assembly.
Now I'm postulating marrying the two ******* children. It has been recommended to me that a big hydromat plus a bunch of ATL foam on top is the winning solution. I'm going to try and machine an adapter to press fit via o-ring onto the 22mm suction port on the bottom of the pump with a 3/8MPT fitting on the opposite side to mate to the hydromat. Then shorten the hanger and move the pump up correspondingly and shove some foam in there to keep it in place...maybe. Still trying to research my way to a solution I'm confident in.
While I stewed there I worked on the fuel sender. I used the hanger Aeromotive supplied with a Dorman level sensor and then welded 2x 10-32 screws as studs to what would have been the fill port blank on the GB bracket. This lets me hang the sender off to the side and back of the pump and still have reach to attach the leads for the wire passthrough Aeromotive provides for.
Working on mounting the fuel reg, coarse and fine filtration and deciding on all soft fuel lines or majority stainless supply/return, started plumbing brake lines, finishing the front diff, and I'm 10 more things that don't come to mind immediately. It's now that stage in this project: have 10 things to do so when you run out of parts for 1, you can just pickup on something else.
First step(s) were to fit a GB fuel plate above to utilize an ebay score of a Aeromotive pump assembly that works with a GM fuel level sender. This also uses the normal 22 bolt opening.
Added a fill spot in the back so I don't necessarily have to remove everything to add some gas. I've since added the second gaskets to the fill with some longer G8 bolts and washers as well as the pump plate.
This is about where it came off the rails.
Here is the fuel pump assembly setup for this tanks height. All good.
This is their solution, designed for a factory truck tank for the road, it's a cylinder of foam with a soft sump at the bottom about 3" tall the pump pulls from.
I also have a Holley hydromat I had intended to use until I found this fuel pump assembly.
Now I'm postulating marrying the two ******* children. It has been recommended to me that a big hydromat plus a bunch of ATL foam on top is the winning solution. I'm going to try and machine an adapter to press fit via o-ring onto the 22mm suction port on the bottom of the pump with a 3/8MPT fitting on the opposite side to mate to the hydromat. Then shorten the hanger and move the pump up correspondingly and shove some foam in there to keep it in place...maybe. Still trying to research my way to a solution I'm confident in.
While I stewed there I worked on the fuel sender. I used the hanger Aeromotive supplied with a Dorman level sensor and then welded 2x 10-32 screws as studs to what would have been the fill port blank on the GB bracket. This lets me hang the sender off to the side and back of the pump and still have reach to attach the leads for the wire passthrough Aeromotive provides for.
Working on mounting the fuel reg, coarse and fine filtration and deciding on all soft fuel lines or majority stainless supply/return, started plumbing brake lines, finishing the front diff, and I'm 10 more things that don't come to mind immediately. It's now that stage in this project: have 10 things to do so when you run out of parts for 1, you can just pickup on something else.
I was able to do some metal whittling on the old Atlas. Poor compound gib needed to be readjusted and I just pushed through without bothering like a mongoloid. I've since brought it in so hopefully the finish quality improves.
Now onto hard and soft plumbing the rest of the fuel system.
Now onto hard and soft plumbing the rest of the fuel system.
I spent the majority of the weekends free time getting the fuel system closed up. I opted to put in 2 filters, a 100µm and a 10µm. The 100 exists solely as a cleanable solution that is easy access in the event the Hydramat breaks down or somehow fuel foam breaks down and gets past it. The 10 micron is to protect the regulator and injectors and hopefully never needs to be field replaced. I currently have 2 gauges, one right on top of the pump before the 100µm and one at the regulator to adjust delivery pressure. I may add a 3rd between the 10µm and the regulator so I can be sure I am feeding the regulator appropriately, but at some point I have to stop adding data acquisition points. Too many filtration skids designed and too many PIDs, I have trouble leaving it simple.
A bracket was made to support the 100µm fuel filter right off the pump. There is also a tab off front side of the same fuel cell capture that now has right angle bulkhead fittings. Then some Fragola 6000 hose and fitting soft connects the fuel cell to the chassis so I can still remove the cell.
Off the bottom of the bulkhead fittings I switched to aluminum hardline and that runs to the middle of the chassis to a union for each so the hardlines are removable. The hardlines go to the front of the firewall to the back of the battery tray. The feed hardline terminates into the 10µm filter and the return terminates into another bulkhead fitting in a single tab off the back of the battery box.
From there both lines connect to the regulator over the engine with more Fragola 6000, this time covered in fire sleeve, and the single line comes out of the regulator in the same configuration to the factory flex fuel rails.
Not sure if I shared this trick, but for all the studs I need to weld to the chassis, I put ~5mL of white vinegar in a medicine cup and put a grade 8 bolt in. Come back about an hour later and the bolt head is clean of coating so you can easily tig weld it on after a water rinse, but the threads are still coated. When you paint the chassis, just tape off the threads and they should be somewhat corrosion resistant.
In the midst of this, the front brake lines from master cyl to front link and on the front axle also got installed. No pictures of the run on the firewall apparently.
A bracket was made to support the 100µm fuel filter right off the pump. There is also a tab off front side of the same fuel cell capture that now has right angle bulkhead fittings. Then some Fragola 6000 hose and fitting soft connects the fuel cell to the chassis so I can still remove the cell.
Off the bottom of the bulkhead fittings I switched to aluminum hardline and that runs to the middle of the chassis to a union for each so the hardlines are removable. The hardlines go to the front of the firewall to the back of the battery tray. The feed hardline terminates into the 10µm filter and the return terminates into another bulkhead fitting in a single tab off the back of the battery box.
From there both lines connect to the regulator over the engine with more Fragola 6000, this time covered in fire sleeve, and the single line comes out of the regulator in the same configuration to the factory flex fuel rails.
Not sure if I shared this trick, but for all the studs I need to weld to the chassis, I put ~5mL of white vinegar in a medicine cup and put a grade 8 bolt in. Come back about an hour later and the bolt head is clean of coating so you can easily tig weld it on after a water rinse, but the threads are still coated. When you paint the chassis, just tape off the threads and they should be somewhat corrosion resistant.
In the midst of this, the front brake lines from master cyl to front link and on the front axle also got installed. No pictures of the run on the firewall apparently.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking good. I haven't tried vinegar, but I use the same trick all the time with Muriatic Acid. I generally do multiples of a size when I'm soaking them and keep a few of each size on hand for TIG welding as it produces a nice clean weld after removing the coating.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 913
I find citric acid (in powder/granular form like what you find in a baking store) to work faster than regular household strength vinegar when it comes to stripping zinc and other coatings. Still plenty safe, no need for gloves or special disposal. dump it down the drain
The vinegar is nice because if you forget, the bolt is still sitting there at the end of the day, not so much with HCl
I find citric acid (in powder/granular form like what you find in a baking store) to work faster than regular household strength vinegar when it comes to stripping zinc and other coatings. Still plenty safe, no need for gloves or special disposal. dump it down the drain
Citric works fine, but mixing anhydrous citric and water in 5mL quantities is a pain and you have to agitate it until it's all in solution. Probably works very well for larger baths.
There's plenty kicking about I guess to trial.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 913
yeah, I'm usually mixing the citric acid in a jar or something with lid, I just shake it a whole bunch, haha