xtremek
Well-known member
What brand of AC will you be using on your work truck? And why that particular brand?
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Bowtie4life
Well-known member
Got it now.........I was looking at the rear and thinking that was the front. I must have been half to sleep.
an update on the shop truck, when I took delivery of the truck last year, the rear bumper came with two hitch balls already installed (and welded in place). If the dings in the tailgate serves as a clue, I saw this as a recipe for a bent up vintage license plate.
If I had any plans at all of pulling a trailer, those needed to go in lieu of a receiver style hitch. I had full intentions of fabricating a Reese style that would attach to the frame, but after inspecting the rear frame, the existing bumper had those same features. So option B, lets hang the receiver below the bumper. Some 3/8 plate was bent at a 90, RotoCut cutters used to add the safety chain slots and the corners for the receiver, and a jigsaw connects the dots.
A vertical section was added to attach to an existing crossmember in front of the bumper
tucked under for just a bit of subtlety
After a powder coat finish of satin black
installed with some grade 8 hardware
Touched up with some period correct oil base enamel aluminum paint....
I wanted a brake controller that was as old as we could get without tapping into hydraulic brake lines. This NOS version from ebay fit the bill
and then a test run with the car trailer to test everything out. The lights all worked out of the gate and the pendulum style brake control worked flawlessly.
all ready for towing duties, the trailer was returned and we did a couple of photo ops.
Point Lookout lighthouse...
and Buzzy's store....
If I had any plans at all of pulling a trailer, those needed to go in lieu of a receiver style hitch. I had full intentions of fabricating a Reese style that would attach to the frame, but after inspecting the rear frame, the existing bumper had those same features. So option B, lets hang the receiver below the bumper. Some 3/8 plate was bent at a 90, RotoCut cutters used to add the safety chain slots and the corners for the receiver, and a jigsaw connects the dots.
A vertical section was added to attach to an existing crossmember in front of the bumper
tucked under for just a bit of subtlety
After a powder coat finish of satin black
installed with some grade 8 hardware
Touched up with some period correct oil base enamel aluminum paint....
I wanted a brake controller that was as old as we could get without tapping into hydraulic brake lines. This NOS version from ebay fit the bill
and then a test run with the car trailer to test everything out. The lights all worked out of the gate and the pendulum style brake control worked flawlessly.
all ready for towing duties, the trailer was returned and we did a couple of photo ops.
Point Lookout lighthouse...
and Buzzy's store....
Hellpig
Well-known member
an update on the shop truck, when I took delivery of the truck last year, the rear bumper came with two hitch balls already installed (and welded in place). If the dings in the tailgate serves as a clue, I saw this as a recipe for a bent up vintage license plate.
If I had any plans at all of pulling a trailer, those needed to go in lieu of a receiver style hitch. I had full intentions of fabricating a Reese style that would attach to the frame, but after inspecting the rear frame, the existing bumper had those same features. So option B, lets hang the receiver below the bumper. Some 3/8 plate was bent at a 90, RotoCut cutters used to add the safety chain slots and the corners for the receiver, and a jigsaw connects the dots.
A vertical section was added to attach to an existing crossmember in front of the bumper
tucked under for just a bit of subtlety
After a powder coat finish of satin black
installed with some grade 8 hardware
Touched up with some period correct oil base enamel aluminum paint....
I wanted a brake controller that was as old as we could get without tapping into hydraulic brake lines. This NOS version from ebay fit the bill
and then a test run with the car trailer to test everything out. The lights all worked out of the gate and the pendulum style brake control worked flawlessly.
all ready for towing duties, the trailer was returned and we did a couple of photo ops.
Point Lookout lighthouse...
and Buzzy's store....
Buzzy's was our go to when fishing Pt. Lookout at night. But that's no more and not coming back.
And the earth is slowly reclaiming Rick's Marine...
Dang, I must be getting old!
YJ4000
Well-known member
Wow! Great job as usual. Looks and works great! Thanks for the update.
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Very nice work!
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for sharing.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
even powder coated! You always have to go to the next level 
. Are you doing powder on your own also or sending it out.
The truck looks great !!
. Are you doing powder on your own also or sending it out. The truck looks great !!
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
It really is all about the fit-up and pre-prep when asking someone else to finish something for me. My go to guy for when I need real welding done doesn’t charge me for the work he does for me because he says my fit up is perfect. He says that when others hire him to weld something he spends an hour fixing their stuff before he strikes a arc. With my junk all he has to do is flip down his hood! His nickname for me is “Sir Tacks-A-Lot”!
And now for the reason we got the trailer hitch all squared away. A friend of mine has a 35 Ford PU that he bought out of OH, where it had been sitting inside a building for a number of years. He had just started the disassembly for starting on the frame mods, and there was a benefit car show locally last weekend that I thought WE should attend. I tried twisting his arm into bolting things back together so we could take it to the show, but it really helped that his wife agreed with me. He and his wife have a local horse farm, and when I stopped after loading up to grab a picture, he says to wait a couple minutes as the horse in the adjacent pasture was nosy and would walk over. Sure enough, and it really made the picture..
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Nice shot Robert, it looks like an ad from back in the day.
I'm sure you got people giving you thumbs up during the drive.
Thank you for sharing.
I'm sure you got people giving you thumbs up during the drive.
Thank you for sharing.
jon72vega
Well-known member
That is a GREAT picture!
steves_001
Well-known member
How is the green wagon coming along? Gone to the owner yet?
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I was thinking the same thing.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Robert, that’s a great picture. There is a lot to see if you study it. The morning fog, the sun peeking and lightning the background, and of course the horse with the trucks.
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,018
I bet that truck sounds good with a load on it.
Wiring... hard to show all the details, but hope some of this is of interest...
Our rear sub uses those spring loaded connectors, which aren't very friendly to stranded wire. We've got these pin contacts (McMaster) so we eliminated the insulation to be able to use a W crimp, and added some glue lined heat shrink for strain relief.
We have a bundle coming up the passenger side of the block, mainly power to alternator and fuse block, and didn't want this resting on the front edge of the intake. We were leaning toward an adel clamp but wanted to isolate it a bit from the engine heat. We opted for a standoff, machined out of phenolic and uses a heli-coil for the internal threaded hole.
Next, the length of our pre-made spark plug wires limited the routing path. They needed to cross over the valve cover but keeping them there was a challenge. None of the available loom guides worked, so let's make our own out of 16 gauge stainless.
We also had a temperature feed for the fuel injection that needed to follow the spark plug wires, so the wire separators were modified to secure this as well.
for the oil and temperature sending units for the gauges, the stud with a terminal lug doesn't look clean, so we used these barrel connectors (McMaster) with some glue lined heat shrink to provide strain relief.
the FI Tech has some downright fugly fuse holders as part of its harness, so we used some lacing cord to dress that mess up the best we could. The barrel connector at the front is for our AC compressor.
Next, we'll get started on buttoning up all the under-dash wiring.
Our rear sub uses those spring loaded connectors, which aren't very friendly to stranded wire. We've got these pin contacts (McMaster) so we eliminated the insulation to be able to use a W crimp, and added some glue lined heat shrink for strain relief.
We have a bundle coming up the passenger side of the block, mainly power to alternator and fuse block, and didn't want this resting on the front edge of the intake. We were leaning toward an adel clamp but wanted to isolate it a bit from the engine heat. We opted for a standoff, machined out of phenolic and uses a heli-coil for the internal threaded hole.
Next, the length of our pre-made spark plug wires limited the routing path. They needed to cross over the valve cover but keeping them there was a challenge. None of the available loom guides worked, so let's make our own out of 16 gauge stainless.
We also had a temperature feed for the fuel injection that needed to follow the spark plug wires, so the wire separators were modified to secure this as well.
for the oil and temperature sending units for the gauges, the stud with a terminal lug doesn't look clean, so we used these barrel connectors (McMaster) with some glue lined heat shrink to provide strain relief.
the FI Tech has some downright fugly fuse holders as part of its harness, so we used some lacing cord to dress that mess up the best we could. The barrel connector at the front is for our AC compressor.
Next, we'll get started on buttoning up all the under-dash wiring.
67CarGuy
Well-known member
Always impressive to see your work! Thanks for sharing your process(es) 
And that photo with the truck, trailer, horse, et al is great!
And that photo with the truck, trailer, horse, et al is great!
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Wiring looks spot on Robert. It looks nice and clean and well laid out.
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for sharing.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
The wiring looks great ! I always appreciate when people post some details that I fight with.
v8nutz
Well-known member
The plug wire holders are really nice!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Damn Robert, these two pictures just made me drool. The truck and trailer combo look amazing and screams at me, perfect stance on both, perfect overall appearance and perfect patina all in one picture.
Well done.
Well done.
Thanks for the comments fellas! Mike, can't wait to see what you come up with for your trailer build!
An update on the shop truck, while this radiator made it across the USA last year, it has seen better days and I'm in the market for a replacement.
It hasn't left a puddle yet, and since the engine is running like a top, I can't see taking it out of commission just yet. I do want to get a bit better cooling for when an AC condenser blocks up some of the air flow, and a good friend had a mid-seventies radiator that was 24-1/4 tall vs. mine at 19-1/4 and had a larger top tank. Where the frame rails leave room for the taller to just drop through, it did risk being below the bumper. So I took the donor radiator apart this weekend, and settled for a 4" sectioning of the side brackets. Our recore will be slightly taller at 20-1/4H x 26-3/8, uses three rows instead of 2, and will maintain the 2" in and out that is presently on the 66. No reproduction radiators, aluminum or otherwise, that I've seen have the correct 2" inlet. This donor will get recored and installed when the 410 goes in, unless we spring a leak before then.
An update on the shop truck, while this radiator made it across the USA last year, it has seen better days and I'm in the market for a replacement.
It hasn't left a puddle yet, and since the engine is running like a top, I can't see taking it out of commission just yet. I do want to get a bit better cooling for when an AC condenser blocks up some of the air flow, and a good friend had a mid-seventies radiator that was 24-1/4 tall vs. mine at 19-1/4 and had a larger top tank. Where the frame rails leave room for the taller to just drop through, it did risk being below the bumper. So I took the donor radiator apart this weekend, and settled for a 4" sectioning of the side brackets. Our recore will be slightly taller at 20-1/4H x 26-3/8, uses three rows instead of 2, and will maintain the 2" in and out that is presently on the 66. No reproduction radiators, aluminum or otherwise, that I've seen have the correct 2" inlet. This donor will get recored and installed when the 410 goes in, unless we spring a leak before then.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Excellent work on the radiator support Robert. Should look like it came that when you're done with it.
I also wanted to tell you thanks again for taking the time to chat with me and get me the trailer dimensions I was inquiring about. I greatly appreciate your time.
Mike I just went to have one of my old radiators recored and was “shocked” at the cost. The new core was over $500 and total cost was close to $1000. I could not believe it. I know copper and brass have gotten pricey but DANG. luckily the shop does a lot of work for my brothers business and they found me a new, made in USA, copper and brass replacement for half the price. I kept the old one as it is still all original ford so it will be useful for a correct restoration project in the future.
Rockable
Well-known member
My last recore cost $850 for a Buick Riviera. That was a little over a year ago. Maybe you'll come in a shade under 4, Robert.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Robert, I didn’t start out with a radiator so shopping aftermarket seemed like my only option. Most if not all of the F100 forums I’ve read/watched use and recommend the champion radiators. Was originality, performance, or a combination why you choose to recore? Thanks for bringing us along, the work looks great as usual!
None of the reproductions I've seen had the correct 2" outlet and 2" inlet. All the inlets were 1.75, and they expect you to use a filler piece of hose to make up the difference. This allows me to have that aspect correct, as well as a larger tank on top and slightly larger size for more cooling capacity. Should come in handy down the road when the AC condenser blocks part of the radiator.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Honestly that is something I’ve not researched. I’m running a much newer engine so that may not be an issue. Thanks for the heads up!
Rockable
Well-known member
Nice job! Did you get out for under a grand?
xtremek
Well-known member
Purdy
Hellpig
Well-known member
Guess I haven't had one done in a while.
Was thinking it was MAYBE $200 to get one for a diesel tractor recored. Was at Gilroys, in White Plains, MD
Then, thought about it some more and realized that was in the '90s, lol.
The years DO go by, don't they???
txvwnut
Well-known member
I had four done last year and the highest bill I had was $695 the lowest was $195. I guess its all about location.
Looking at the breather we got for the new 410 engine for the shop truck, the snout opening was 2” diameter, or 3.14 square inches.
The 4bbl carburetor I have for the engine has 1.19 diameter Venturi (x4) or 4.44 square inches. So our factory breather has a built in choke, let’s see if we can open it up a bit
A hammer form was made out of some MDF to match the ends of the opening in the housing, a ball end hammer was used to move the opening outward to match the new snout.
Mocked up….
With the additional width, the snout opening is now 6.14 square inches, should be plenty.
The 4bbl carburetor I have for the engine has 1.19 diameter Venturi (x4) or 4.44 square inches. So our factory breather has a built in choke, let’s see if we can open it up a bit
A hammer form was made out of some MDF to match the ends of the opening in the housing, a ball end hammer was used to move the opening outward to match the new snout.
Mocked up….
With the additional width, the snout opening is now 6.14 square inches, should be plenty.