xtremek
Well-known member
Looking pretty good
Finally back to work in the shop My C.O.E.
- Thread starter don long
- Start date
Swanny1953
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looking great! Thanks for keeping us all updated with your progress on this one - It's one of my favorites of all your projects.
Slackerzinc
Well-known member
Coming along nicely!!
Time sure goes by quickly, as I look back to the last time the old truck was in the shop.
Well today is the start of another round of work on the C.O.E. My SIL is here for a week to help push this project forward.
A couple years ago I got the grille bars chromed but then put them away so not to loose them before putting them on the truck . Problem was that I forgot where I put them. I found them by chance last week so I put the truck back in the shop and invited my SIL to come back and help me get this old bomb running now that I have the motorhome frame under the body with all the running gear (motor, trans and rear end ) together.
Well today is the start of another round of work on the C.O.E. My SIL is here for a week to help push this project forward.
A couple years ago I got the grille bars chromed but then put them away so not to loose them before putting them on the truck . Problem was that I forgot where I put them. I found them by chance last week so I put the truck back in the shop and invited my SIL to come back and help me get this old bomb running now that I have the motorhome frame under the body with all the running gear (motor, trans and rear end ) together.
Everything starts out with good intentions. Today we managed to put the bling on the motor while we wait for the wire harness to arrive.
With some down time today Rob (my SIL) and I started studying the truck more closely and discovered that the steering has an alignment problem and it was agreed that a Rack and pinion system would be the best solution for the problem. Then we moved our attention into the cab of the truck where I had welded in a 4" square tube to raise the floor hoping to get a little more leg room. After setting a seat into the cab it became obvious that we have a serious problem with leg room.
We settled on the solution of repositioning the motor lower and further back under the cab. So tomorrow we start tearing the body back off the frame
Pictures to follow
With some down time today Rob (my SIL) and I started studying the truck more closely and discovered that the steering has an alignment problem and it was agreed that a Rack and pinion system would be the best solution for the problem. Then we moved our attention into the cab of the truck where I had welded in a 4" square tube to raise the floor hoping to get a little more leg room. After setting a seat into the cab it became obvious that we have a serious problem with leg room.
We settled on the solution of repositioning the motor lower and further back under the cab. So tomorrow we start tearing the body back off the frame
Pictures to follow
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
That COE is definitely going to have some bling!
xtremek
Well-known member
Funny timing. I'm getting all the big pieces to mine finally together. I'm hoping before the summer gets here to start it. Please keep this up to date so I can steal some ideas. Like what's the plan for engine access when it's all done?
Today was a very productive day out in the shop. We started at 7A.M. and quit at 7 P.M.
We started by pulling the cab off the frame.
Then the motor came out and the steering box was removed along with all the exhaust, gas and brake lines and several brackets were cut off the frame
With the motor out the mount brackets and Trans X member were retally available The goal here was to move the motor back 20 inches and drop it down 8 inches.
The trans x member was our first target. It was bolted to the top of the frame so it got unbolted and moved back 20 inches and bolted to the lower lip of the 8" frame rails.
Next was the motor mounts. They too were bolted to the top of the frame rails and also supported by the suspension cross member. Well they to had to move back 20"s and dropped down to the lower lip of the rails and we started building a support x member to add support for the motor.
We had to mount the motor back into the frame after moving the mounts to be sure that everything lined bak up and could be rebolted into the frame.
The motor looks much lower now so tomorrow we will remount the cab and see if we gained enough leg room
Before
After
We started by pulling the cab off the frame.
Then the motor came out and the steering box was removed along with all the exhaust, gas and brake lines and several brackets were cut off the frame
With the motor out the mount brackets and Trans X member were retally available The goal here was to move the motor back 20 inches and drop it down 8 inches.
The trans x member was our first target. It was bolted to the top of the frame so it got unbolted and moved back 20 inches and bolted to the lower lip of the 8" frame rails.
Next was the motor mounts. They too were bolted to the top of the frame rails and also supported by the suspension cross member. Well they to had to move back 20"s and dropped down to the lower lip of the rails and we started building a support x member to add support for the motor.
We had to mount the motor back into the frame after moving the mounts to be sure that everything lined bak up and could be rebolted into the frame.
The motor looks much lower now so tomorrow we will remount the cab and see if we gained enough leg room
Before
After
Last edited:
jbmatth
Well-known member
WOW is not a strong enough word, when you said you were moving the motor back and down I expected it to be an inch or two in either direction. I would have never guessed back TWENTY inches and down eight, that is mind blowing. Hopefully it nets you what you need and once again I love this project.
JB
JB
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Change the plugs/cap/rotor/wires before you put the cab back on 
Enjoying the progress!
Enjoying the progress!
Put the cab back on the frame this morning to check for more leg room and we did get a bunch
It looks like the motor will be below the floor and the carb will fit in the console area
After some long discussion we decided that the cab needs to be sand blasted before we start welding the floor braces in so now the cab is back off and the fenders dissembled and ready for the mobile sand blast co. To show up on Tuesday
It looks like the motor will be below the floor and the carb will fit in the console area
After some long discussion we decided that the cab needs to be sand blasted before we start welding the floor braces in so now the cab is back off and the fenders dissembled and ready for the mobile sand blast co. To show up on Tuesday
Michael B.
Well-known member
Don a friend of mine is building a 58” Chevy LCF. He mounted the engine under the sleeper and then put a hydraulic bed lift on it. With a removable floor in the center of the sleeper, he has complete access to the Duramax/Allison combo.
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casmurbax
Well-known member
I can't get over how low you dropped that motor.
Have you used mobile sand blasting before? How had it turned out if you did?
Have you used mobile sand blasting before? How had it turned out if you did?
bowtiguy
Well-known member
That’s THE definition of Cab OVER right there!
36truck
Well-known member
Glad he made it. Parts look good other than the dented one. Now the fun starts.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Seems like the right time to switch back to the Ford 429?
Max Power
Well-known member
I'm blown away with the idea of a mobile sandblaster. But with your experience in the industry you must know a talented person. 40 years ago I was helping on a 53 Ford sedan delivery. It had some light rust / pitting. We peeled off the door skins and a blaster cleaned everything up and we reinstalled the skins and skimmed the pits with lead. It was the only job I ever saw that didn't get warped and was honestly metal finished with no plastic. (I was helping, not my skill)
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Nice work as per usual. I’m looking forward to seeing this big old COE finished but I think I really want to see a thread on your 56 if you put that big engine in it even more.
Hope all is well in your world and best of luck with all the things that you do!!
Hope all is well in your world and best of luck with all the things that you do!!
jbmatth
Well-known member
Don, did you do anything to treat the metal on the inside under the new patch?
JB
JB
+1 - A friend owned a Bizzarrini - Italian body, Chevy 327. There was a cover on the top of the dash you changed the points through. The second time he asked me to change them I insisted we put in a Pertronix electronic kit.Change the plugs/cap/rotor/wires before you put the cab back on
Enjoying the progress!
Finally got the phone and computer together so I can post pictures again from the computer files
Been working on cleaning up the C.O.E. cab, removing the rusty metal and covering the nasty spot welds and repairing dents all around the cab.
Finally got the cab into the booth tonight for a good coat of epoxy primer in the morning
Next I went to work stripping the paint off sleeper
Been working on cleaning up the C.O.E. cab, removing the rusty metal and covering the nasty spot welds and repairing dents all around the cab.
Finally got the cab into the booth tonight for a good coat of epoxy primer in the morning
Next I went to work stripping the paint off sleeper
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Today was a very productive day out in the shop. We started at 7A.M. and quit at 7 P.M.
We started by pulling the cab off the frame.
Then the motor came out and the steering box was removed along with all the exhaust, gas and brake lines and several brackets were cut off the frame
With the motor out the mount brackets and Trans X member were retally available The goal here was to move the motor back 20 inches and drop it down 8 inches.
The trans x member was our first target. It was bolted to the top of the frame so it got unbolted and moved back 20 inches and bolted to the lower lip of the 8" frame rails.
Next was the motor mounts. They too were bolted to the top of the frame rails and also supported by the suspension cross member. Well they to had to move back 20"s and dropped down to the lower lip of the rails and we started building a support x member to add support for the motor.
We had to mount the motor back into the frame after moving the mounts to be sure that everything lined bak up and could be rebolted into the frame.
The motor looks much lower now so tomorrow we will remount the cab and see if we gained enough leg room
Before
After
The Mobil sand blast guy finally showed up this morning after standing me up 3 times over the past week
Two questions for you...
What does that engine hoist look like? It has probably lived a long life and looks quite weathered with patina. I'm just curious as it has lots of character and probably has seen a lot of projects.
Second question...
After sandblasting, how do you prep the body for storage if you're not able to paint it right away? Do you clean it with anything to get the dust off? I live in WA State where we have plenty of humidity, and I'd like to get a WWII Jeep body blasted, but don't have the ability to paint it right away unless I transport it to someone afterward. I'd be trying to avoid flash rusting as well as trying to put in patch panels. I'm just curious what your process and advice would be.
Your COE is pretty sweet.
Well M.A. Fan
The engine hoist is nothing special, just an old snap-on hoist that sits out in the weather until it's needed.
I brought all the sand blasted pieces into the building out of the weather while it waits for some attention. I started with the truck cab and ran a Dual action sander with 80 grit paper on it before spraying an epoxy primer on it. I will follow the same procedure with each piece. I may do a little body work on those pieces prior to priming.
The cab is done for now
The engine hoist is nothing special, just an old snap-on hoist that sits out in the weather until it's needed.
I brought all the sand blasted pieces into the building out of the weather while it waits for some attention. I started with the truck cab and ran a Dual action sander with 80 grit paper on it before spraying an epoxy primer on it. I will follow the same procedure with each piece. I may do a little body work on those pieces prior to priming.
The cab is done for now
WoodsTruck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,018
What kind of floor is the COE fitted with?
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Thank you for the information. I have a project I'd like to do, but my weather window is very short in NW Washington. The 80 grit sanding is to remove any burrs? I assume an acetone wipe-down is also part of the process? Is there a timeframe after blasting the bare metal should be coated to prevent flash rusting or will it happen almost immediately due to the wet sandblasting method used? I found a local guy who does mobile dustless blasting and would like to know a "best practices", and you've done a great job with yours. I had only mentioned the hoist earlier as the patina told a story of work and quality.Well M.A. Fan
The engine hoist is nothing special, just an old snap-on hoist that sits out in the weather until it's needed.
I brought all the sand blasted pieces into the building out of the weather while it waits for some attention. I started with the truck cab and ran a Dual action sander with 80 grit paper on it before spraying an epoxy primer on it. I will follow the same procedure with each piece. I may do a little body work on those pieces prior to priming.
The cab is done for now
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Alright, I appreciate the insight on wet blasting. I thought that you got yours wet blasted, hence the mobile part. I don't know enough about the setups to tell that yours was done dry. Everything seems to rust quickly with the moisture in the air up here. Not rust out like in the Northeast, but surface rust isn't uncommon if you have bare metal. I may not even get to the body by the summer this year. I have an engine to get machined and (maybe I will try to put it) back together. Thanks again for the info, I'm always trying to learn and improve my knowledge.
Steve from Socal
Well-known member
Put a back window in the sleeper Don. It greatly opens up the coffin!