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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

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rattle_snake

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Being horribly impatient I like to rush things to final assembly.
But that doesn't stop me from doing things multiple times.
I went ahead and painted the weld cart before committing to a method to secure the machine. Hard to know what is the most-best-est way is until you do it the 2nd or 3rd time.
Anyhow, I decided to put a pair of riv-nuts into the top and bolt the MIG down so I can use it's handles to move the entire rig. While I was there the top had marginal paint so I touched up the visible area.
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Drilled holes in the bottom of the case not where the 'legs' were to provide room for rivnut. Both bolts are inside the access door.
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rattle_snake

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So this guitar project....
I know better, but I like to rush things to final assembly.
It's a kit, just put it together. Ready to go.
So I went ahead with paint. Primer/sand/repeat, not going to fill every pore, no mirror finish. It's made of wood and is OK to look like it.
yyP83moqbQC65jo-X8ueg=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

I painted the headstock black and put lots of coats of Lacquer on the neck.
uzUFcJNd2nzzRPctA_mA=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Put down lots of coats of GM garnet red base
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Made a sticker to let everyone know what it is. But before I could put it on, the lacquer had already cracked. You shouldn't assemble immediately after dry to touch, but I did anyhow. Didn't even tighten the nuts, just snug. Some people 'age' new guitar finishes with heat cycle to crack the finish. So that is what I was going for, or something like that.
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Lots of coats of semi gloss clear. but coverage not quite good enough. So light sand and re-spray, but now with runs. Going backwards. Sanded with orbital and cooked a few chips on. Now exposed primer on the face. Touch up and respray again. Too windy and ran out of paint to get a complete wet coat. Finger prints. Failure. Shot a coat of satin as I had it. Don't like it.
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At this point to get a high quality result need to start over. Instead, continue to damage soft finish installing the hardware. Lots of holes to drill, things to fit. Should have done all this before paint, but I rushed the job. So now just enjoy the final assembly, and plan to repaint at a later time. Build the 2nd guitar the right way and come back to this one later.

Installed the Floyd Rose bridge and it's spring anchor plate.
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Put the pickups on backwards. No directions, just have to do it. Wired it up.
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Put the strings on and started to adjust the action. Plugged it in and made some noise to call it a win for the day. I do like the feel of the body, guitar, it is different than the typical strat.
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rattle_snake

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Got the bridge tension set, action adjusted and the guitar tuned. Learned the spring anchor plate is adjustable as an tension offset (spring change is a tension multiplier) to set the bridge angle, balance string tension. Sounds good to me.
 
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The best guitars are the ones you can beat on, and they say: Is that all you've got? I had an old Electra Strat copy like that back in the day. I eventually killed it with mods, but it wasn't easy. Current victim is an early 80s Gibson V that I broke the neck out of at one point. It just keeps coming back for more.
 
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rattle_snake

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I went ahead and did what I said I didn't want to do. A CV IFS like everybody else.
Comes down to cost. I paid $500 and didn't have to pull it. To make something custom and bad *** was thousands.
I think this is a 2007 P71 setup. Most of the cars being parted out are police versions.
jze6SkJW_NUeSVGLpRQA=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Saw a set of ridetech air struts for $500 on fbmp for a long time. Picked them up next day after getting the CV IFS. Adjustable shock, adjustable ride height independent of bag pressure. They go for about $1200 now.
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rattle_snake

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Picked apart the CV IFS. Surprisingly clean for a 20 year old car that likely went a lot of miles. All the bolts-n-nutz just come right off. No Titanic **** here in AZ.
The only suspension parts that need replacement are the lower ball joints. They have up and down play.
The left upper control arm is damaged from a hit. It pushed the arm off the rear bushing. It is repairable, bushings and upper BJ are OK. I kinda want the forged arms instead of the stamped/boxed versions. Debating just buying a new set of arms. Probably would make no difference other than wasted money.
The trailing lower bushing have some deflection but look OK.
Sway bar ends and bushings are good. Bar is 28 mm, 1.10"
Steering rack looks like it wasn't leaking. Ends are good.
I managed to **** up one of the caliper seal rings cleaning them. The pistons and bores look good. no rust, plan to just replace the seals and paint. Slide pins good.
The rotors cleaned up decent. I blasted, ground the ridge off the outer edge, broke the glaze and painted the center. They are 27.9mm out of 28. Min is 26.5 mm.
Plan to use power stop Z26 pads.
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And then there was only one part left. I think the plan is to hit it with oven cleaner, then paint it black.
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rattle_snake

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76 F100.
Everybody does bumps, 67-72. I'm doing a dent.

Looks like the donor hit a curb or got hit hard enough to sheer the bushing sleeve
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The rear LCA mount is specific to the CV chassis, and looks out of place when mounted (correctly or not) on the F100 frame. Can't have that, would be too easy to replace as it is a wear item. Instead make something custom out of the old junk. Cut off the bracket and slicked out the bushing shell. The slot is intended to be horizontal for alignment purposes. Slot is not ideal, but going to use it.
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Did 1st round of cleanup on the k member, oven cleaner. Pourus so still have to brush it to get the grime off. Test fit the ride tech struts, which are baby sized Fox shocks.
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The upper strut mount adapter is SS. But the HW is not. In an effort to waste time and money, have to get SS fasteners and TIG them captive for minimal loose HW.
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rattle_snake

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Ya same disease. :cool:

I can't help myself. I have to turd polish things. Poor example here with brake calipers. They are wear item, shouldn't waste time on them, may have to replace. But I had to grind off the casting seam flash and break all the sharp edges. Media blast. Slick out the area that is visible. Paint and install new seals, $30. I wasted an hour or so doing something I enjoy to save $200. Was it worth my time?
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Same story on the knuckles. Etch, grind, break edges, blast, slick. Not even visible on the truck. But I want it clean and nice when I bolt it together. or something like that.
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senlow

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rattle_snake said:
Ya same disease. :cool:

I can't help myself. I have to turd polish things. Poor example here with brake calipers. They are wear item, shouldn't waste time on them, may have to replace. But I had to grind off the casting seam flash and break all the sharp edges. Media blast. Slick out the area that is visible. Paint and install new seals, $30. I wasted an hour or so doing something I enjoy to save $200. Was it worth my time?
_s5ZonCYg8GUtMal1ZLQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Same story on the knuckles. Etch, grind, break edges, blast, slick. Not even visible on the truck. But I want it clean and nice when I bolt it together. or something like that.
VHL8Qg1_PHweNKDJ_yWA=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
Click to expand...
Hell yes!! It was worth every second that was spent on it! It's called taking pride in your craft.
 
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ctandc72

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rattle_snake said:
Ya same disease. :cool:

I can't help myself. I have to turd polish things. Poor example here with brake calipers. They are wear item, shouldn't waste time on them, may have to replace. But I had to grind off the casting seam flash and break all the sharp edges. Media blast. Slick out the area that is visible. Paint and install new seals, $30. I wasted an hour or so doing something I enjoy to save $200. Was it worth my time?
_s5ZonCYg8GUtMal1ZLQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Same story on the knuckles. Etch, grind, break edges, blast, slick. Not even visible on the truck. But I want it clean and nice when I bolt it together. or something like that.
VHL8Qg1_PHweNKDJ_yWA=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. Last time I was this deep into a front end, I tore the calipers apart - the certain model I was working on is famous for the phenolic (plastic) caliper pistons swelling and sticking in the bore, essentially making the calipers wear items. After some digging found out that I could order steel pistons to fit the caliper w/ seals for cheap. Did that. Blew the new calipers apart, cleaned and painted them, reassembled and installed. Was feeling good about it after it was all back together.

Buddy of mine looked at it and said "You did all that work and painted the calipers black - you can't even see them."

Yeah - that's my preference. So yes, I'm going with "At least I know it's right." or more famously the "Since I'm already in here, I might as well do ____________" disease.
 
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rattle_snake

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Installing new ball joints in the CV LCAs. One side has a larger BJ and corresponding hole, 1.770 instead of 1.750. How does one find an oversized ball joint?
 
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rattle_snake

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I assume both the LCAs have been replaced. One takes the standard BJ the other a larger one. I also assume the larger size is so that the arm assembly is not serviceable, instead disposable.

I can replace the whole arm assembly, but it may have intentional odd parts that are not serviceable.
 
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ntsqd

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Looking at RA (guessed a 2010 donor) there's two different LCA's, a std duty and a Heavy Duty. At first I thought that you got one Cop Car part (have to say that with John Belushi's voice) and one std part, but I'm not seeing two different listings for the Ball-Joints.

It's galling to consider it, but are you likely to drive the truck enough to wear out that unreplaceable ball-joint? Perfect being the enemy of done and all of that. Nevermind that I'm completely hypocritical in asking that..... :)

OR turn a new insert of the correct size for the replaceable b-j and modify the LCA?
 
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zmotorsports

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I think that was the best way to go Justin. I know "custom" is cool and everything, been there done that and built enough to know there is also something appealing to be able to buy a part off the shelf such as a ball joint or bushing and not have to reinvent the wheel. Plus, that is actually a decent looking front end, and you've made it even better looking. Being modular it would be easy and look custom enough just by painting all of the components separately and then assembling.
 
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rattle_snake

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ntsqd said:
Looking at RA (guessed a 2010 donor) there's two different LCA's, a std duty and a Heavy Duty. At first I thought that you got one Cop Car part (have to say that with John Belushi's voice) and one std part, but I'm not seeing two different listings for the Ball-Joints.

It's galling to consider it, but are you likely to drive the truck enough to wear out that unreplaceable ball-joint? Perfect being the enemy of done and all of that. Nevermind that I'm completely hypocritical in asking that..... :)

OR turn a new insert of the correct size for the replaceable b-j and modify the LCA?
Click to expand...
Yes there are two flavors, stamped steel and cast aluminum. They both should use the same BJ.
Correct not going to wear out the BJ. I bought a matching set of BJs, but can't use them.

I am considering some way to use the BJ I have with the arm I have. Press it together, run it.

zmotorsports said:
I think that was the best way to go Justin. I know "custom" is cool and everything, been there done that and built enough to know there is also something appealing to be able to buy a part off the shelf such as a ball joint or bushing and not have to reinvent the wheel. Plus, that is actually a decent looking front end, and you've made it even better looking. Being modular it would be easy and look custom enough just by painting all of the components separately and then assembling.
Click to expand...
Somehow I ended up with a LCA that you can't get an off the shelf part for.
But with more money I can replace the arm, or both arms. Of course I find this after spending a little time and money.

I'm waffling on making my own frame mounts instead of the cast k-member. Took some measurements and made a drawing. Beyond the control arms have to make a crossmember to clear oil pan, motor mounts, rack.

Either way I already beautified the K member.
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rattle_snake

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I tried a shim of the needed size but it didn't handle the press operation. So I bought one new lower arm assembly.

I'm not sure if the aftermarket arms are new castings or re-man. Perhaps they are reman and machine the BJ hole out larger for a clean fit and source whatever joint to make it work.

Did last round of cleanup on the K member and application of acid etch primer.
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rattle_snake

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Thanks. Almost convinced I should use it, do things the easy way.

and then it was black. I have bad luck with spray paint. Now that Krylon is the same as the rest it's a guess if any can will dispense for more than a few seconds even brand new. Tried a new color, nickel satin that is close to raw aluminum without the sparkle or gloss sheen of the aluminum or silver paints. I liked it so naturally the can clogged 5 seconds in and had to stop, drive to store and return it for another. I have a stash of nozzles but that was not the issue.
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Started mock-up of the right side. The brakes are painted with VHT, although I used engine paint I already had instead of caliper paint.
Cleaned up most of the HW but it is not perfect. It seems almost every fastener is different left to right. Nothing matches, no pair of anything. And it is metric, although prohibited there are things that cannot be converted (BJ for example) so going to have to go with it. Where to stop with OEM fasteners vs getting new HW.
Bought a 6AN adapter set for the rack hydraulic lines. One fitting didn't fit but was able to pop it in the lathe and make it work.
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zmotorsports

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Justin, you mentioned not having good luck using rattle cans, they're not my favorite either, but they ARE convenient.

Being a "custom" job, have you thought about investing in a spray gun and some good quality products as they really do make a difference.

When I saw the raw aluminum crossmember that you had spent the time to clean and smooth out, I was going to suggest using some SPI epoxy primer for adhesion and then a good quality urethane black, either single stage or base/clear option, as that would really look nice and hold up well. I have even used PPG black with a flattening agent added to give the semi-gloss appearance for under hood components and have had excellent results. I didn't suggest it because it is an added cost and step(s) in the build process and may require a bit of a learning curve to spray, but now reading your trepidation, I thought I would suggest it.
 
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rattle_snake

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Mike,
I have a spray gun and have used it with many products. I generally use it when there is a large area to spray that would take many rattle cans, and the gun is quicker/cheaper including cleanup. Or a single large surface that cans cannot do well, tiger stripes, minimal wet edge.

As for the cross member, I did just one coat of black as it is going to get beat up during the fab and mock-up process. Perhaps modified further. Once it is ready to go in for good I will paint it again. Probably should have just left it as-is for now, but I like playing with clean, pretty pieces.

I'd like to have a nice powder coating setup for all this type of stuff. Someday....
 
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ntsqd

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disappointed that it wasn't headed for a polishing.........
Just think of how much on-going work that would be!

I bought a cheap (HF) detail HVLP gun for one project because even though I was using a "self-leveling" paint I kept getting brush strokes that I had to sand out. Used it on a couple projects since then. Handing me a Iwata wouldn't improve anything and would put it at risk, so why not mess up a cheapie instead?
 
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