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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

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rattle_snake

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I had considered the trapezoid idea above, however it removes the adjustability of the y-axis rails in the gantry slots. The gantry width is very close to ideal, maybe a 1/16 long and could be made to work with some shims.

I also have some 2x4x0.188 aluminum that would make a decent spacer. Just use longer bolts in same location. The 3x3 extrusion slots are same as the 3x6, 1.5" apart which is a bit much for 2" wide translator plate. Could be made to work also. Several options, no hurry so letting them process as a background task.
 
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ntsqd

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It could be T shaped, but I'd make the radius in the transitions as large as will clear that which needs to be adjusted. The angle aluminum also addresses the lack of rigidity in the flat plate tying the two linear bearings together.
 
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rattle_snake

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4" lift kit. Added two fasteners on the bottom side toe to align the block to the guide carrier.
wFPH4672tRvUi0g7VZ1sQ=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

tOJWtMo2rXZrj8JGS-8Og=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Countersunk M6 for guides
jXZYRjRz1erkn1WO1YdhA=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

qSUXGYjc-VE05oXIrK5Eg=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Longer bolts and done. Reversed the x-axis ballscrew to have motor on the other side where the stepper drivers will be mounted.
7f739o7H4ViRIYs9UmkpA=w455-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Got the router reassembled with the proper flat/socket fasteners for the guide blocks. I am able to mount the z-axis in the lowest position which is really the only ideal location. Can get six fasteners in. Next step was to attach the drive arm to the plate. Used one of the existing tapped holes for z-axis.
hU6acZpiWfn_P9kxh19iw=w455-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Added a 2nd bolt in blind hole
E5ytDnZngeIcfI2QNXnwQ=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Connected the y-axis ball screws to the gantry guide blocks with some 3/8"x2" bar stock. Now all three axis are mechanically complete.
Eb6s0_Hi8Za3ADbjbpgWg=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Mr.zippy said:
Justin, the stuff you do is all next level! Good grief, it just blows my mind how varied and precise your projects are. I feel especially inadequate on this thread!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the complement. Yes a wide range of broken stuff to fix. Ruptured pipe in the mud to laptop cooling fans.

The CNC router is quite the project. Had to think about it before committing the time and money.
I spent a fair amount of time just trying to figure out what I have and how to use it. I tried to connect to the more basic controller. Can't find any documentation at all. I have a unlabeled 'CD'. Gave up waiting for only machine with a CD drive just to boot. disc is warped. Tried installing a CAM program, won't connect. Guess I'll use the other one. Not sure exactly how the spindle speed will be controlled either. Need relay for the coolant pump. So many unknowns and items to solve. One at a time. I worked on the machine all day Saturday, and was burned out on it on Sunday. Chips everywhere time to clean up.

Circled back to tool and material organization. Moved some stuff around and into the new box but got overwhelmed and took a break. Spent some time reorganizing tools, like items together, more used stuff in easier to reach drawers. Then did a deep dive into hardware and fasteners. Bought some more divider bins like the existing ones. Sorted every one of them. Threw away most all of my old stash of fasteners that was sorted machine/screw, flat/pan, nuts, washers. Kept only the new stainless stuff. Tossed every split lock, nylock, slotted head. Nails? nope. Emptied many of the half empty product packages into bins of like items.

Went through my entire 'metric' collection, which was only one bin. Sorted and threw away most all of it. Didn't even need another bin. Organized the 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 drawers. Went through all of my SS and labeled. Expanded AN fittings into larger bin. Still have some more work to do but over the half way mark.

I'm not a hoarder, but I struggled to not keep every nut and bolt from everything. I went through my lifetime collection of **** around 2018 ish and threw away most of it. Now almost all of it is gone, never used. If I need a special fastener I don't have, go buy it. It is unlikely I ever have enough of the 'perfect' bolt, maybe something to mockup, but still have to go buy what I need.

I emptied many bins and drawers, and separated things into their own little block of the bin. No more digging. No clutter. Then why the extra toolbox if I got rid of stuff? Everything was over packed and stuff was stored all over the shop, wherever it would fit. I'd say I'm at 85% capacity now.
 
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rattle_snake

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Pulled the trigger on a TIG machine. Primeweld 225X. AC/DC lots of single purpose knobs. Gas cooled torch. Tired of swapping the spoolgun in and out of MIG for a small aluminum job. Doesn't do thin or fragile things.

So this opens up the conundrum of what to do with the machine, welding carts. At this time I have one cart with two mig machines and two fairly big bottles, C25 and Argon.

Possible options:
  1. Add TIG to existing cart. Build a 3rd level. Cart is even heavier, less mobile.
  2. Build a new cart for the TIG and argon bottle. Bigger footprint for two carts. Leave the MIG cart alone, lighter, better mobility.
  3. Move small 110V MIG out of existing cart and store someplace else. Modify cart to accept TIG. Still heavy with both bottles.
110V MIG is setup with flux core for welding fencing and things around the property. No need for gas.
220V MIG stays in shop but I move it around to weld on the lift or other bays. So it needs to remain mobile.
The old TIG I had was not really movable. wheels worn and undersized. So it never moved. Not sure I ever needed it to. Not sure making the new TIG mobile is of any use other than it not being on wheel like everything else in the shop.

I have a HF 22" side drawer with welding stuff in it. It has small casters. It would make a nice basis for a welding cart. build chassis, bigger wheels, secure bottle. Set TIG on top.

4. Set the TIG on the cabinet unmodified and strap the argon bottle to the wall.

:unsure:
 
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I was coerced into a duplicate tool purchase by @lilscorpion, along the lines of this post below. Efficiency. Both money and free time are limited resource have to pick one or the other.

$76 Dewalt DCD794 1/2 drill. Also bought 2 more 2AH batts so the tools can remain usable. I have one floater battery in the charger for all of the limited use tools.
I damaged the chuck of a drill trying to release it. PITA to swap out and chuck expensive so bought a new compact brushless hammer back then. The old drill always has a countersink in it. But that left me with essentially one drill and I swapped bits constantly. Now somewhat less.

LilScorpion’s Fab Space

:bowdown:
www.garagejournal.com www.garagejournal.com
 
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I've been making an effort to have everything on wheels even if it doesn't need to move on a regular basis. With only 400 sq ft to work with indoors I have to reconfigure according to the project, and I like to do all my dirty work out back to keep debris out of the garage itself. Yeah moving bikes, and machines around is kind of a PITA, but it beats having to clean abrasive dust off things. Would love to have separate clean, and dirty shops.
 
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I have all of the messy stuff in an 8x15 Tuff Shed. I added 120VAC & 240 3Ø power, insulation, and sheetrock to the walls; and lighting to the ceiling. It all plugs into outside outlets, nothing is hard-wired.

My city sees conex boxes as trailers, not buildings. We're limited to one shed of no more than 120 sq. ft., but we could literally pave the backyard two layers deep in conex boxes and as far as I know there's nothing that they can say about it.
 
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rattle_snake said:
I'm not a hoarder, but I struggled to not keep every nut and bolt from everything. I went through my lifetime collection of **** around 2018 ish and threw away most of it. Now almost all of it is gone, never used. If I need a special fastener I don't have, go buy it. It is unlikely I ever have enough of the 'perfect' bolt, maybe something to mockup, but still have to go buy what I need.
Click to expand...

@rattle_snake I'm sitting next to you. Having retired and the opening of a new Ace hardware 15 minutes away, the realization that various web shops can have it here in a couple days. I am strongly considering letting the accumulated hardware go away. Recently needed an almond 2 gang plate and an almond screw, none in the boxes of plates and screws, what good does it do to have all this and not what I need.
 
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rattle_snake

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M.Brane said:
I've been making an effort to have everything on wheels even if it doesn't need to move on a regular basis. With only 400 sq ft to work with indoors I have to reconfigure according to the project, and I like to do all my dirty work out back to keep debris out of the garage itself. Yeah moving bikes, and machines around is kind of a PITA, but it beats having to clean abrasive dust off things. Would love to have separate clean, and dirty shops.
Click to expand...
We all need a least one more shop.
I'm very lucky to have the space I do. 3 cars in clean garage plus two bikes. Shop has to do double duty, dirty fab and park trucks & more bikes. I have an outdoor workbench with vice and air/power/water for the really dirty stuff.
bugnut said:
@rattle_snake I'm sitting next to you. Having retired and the opening of a new Ace hardware 15 minutes away, the realization that various web shops can have it here in a couple days. I am strongly considering letting the accumulated hardware go away. Recently needed an almond 2 gang plate and an almond screw, none in the boxes of plates and screws, what good does it do to have all this and not what I need.
Click to expand...
Congrats on retirement!
I have an Ace HW and Autozone roughly 1 mile away. HD, Lowes, O'reilly's within 4 miles.
I have a few bins of electrical stuff. I purge often for same reason. Even if I have what will work, it might not be 'right'. Same for plumbing. Have 3 need 4 and glue is dried up.
 
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rattle_snake said:
Circled back to tool and material organization. Moved some stuff around and into the new box but got overwhelmed and took a break. Spent some time reorganizing tools, like items together, more used stuff in easier to reach drawers. Then did a deep dive into hardware and fasteners. Bought some more divider bins like the existing ones. Sorted every one of them. Threw away most all of my old stash of fasteners that was sorted machine/screw, flat/pan, nuts, washers. Kept only the new stainless stuff. Tossed every split lock, nylock, slotted head. Nails? nope. Emptied many of the half empty product packages into bins of like items.

Went through my entire 'metric' collection, which was only one bin. Sorted and threw away most all of it. Didn't even need another bin. Organized the 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 drawers. Went through all of my SS and labeled. Expanded AN fittings into larger bin. Still have some more work to do but over the half way mark.

I'm not a hoarder, but I struggled to not keep every nut and bolt from everything. I went through my lifetime collection of **** around 2018 ish and threw away most of it. Now almost all of it is gone, never used. If I need a special fastener I don't have, go buy it. It is unlikely I ever have enough of the 'perfect' bolt, maybe something to mockup, but still have to go buy what I need.

I emptied many bins and drawers, and separated things into their own little block of the bin. No more digging. No clutter. Then why the extra toolbox if I got rid of stuff? Everything was over packed and stuff was stored all over the shop, wherever it would fit. I'd say I'm at 85% capacity now.
Click to expand...
Your making me doubt my current efforts. I just recently got enough space that I could be get my hardware organized and into a lista cabinet. Damn do I have a ton of random hardware. Maybe I should have purged it instead of spending 10hrs organizing everything by size.....
 
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rattle_snake

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Clemson13 said:
Your making me doubt my current efforts. I just recently got enough space that I could be get my hardware organized and into a lista cabinet. Damn do I have a ton of random hardware. Maybe I should have purged it instead of spending 10hrs organizing everything by size.....
Click to expand...
Well I just did the same thing. Bought more chests/cabinets before sort/purge.

I have trolled for listas for a long time. So you **** if you found one for a good deal.

Kinda have to inventory and have a place to put things before or during the purge though. I had stuff from 10, 20 years that never got touched. Statistical probability of finding a use for it within next year or 20 asymptotically approaches zero. So reluctantly I watched it fall into the trash can. The extra space can then be used to have a single item in a location, so no digging or trying to figure out what all is in there.

So I'd say try to find another Lista, or I can help by taking the one you have off your hands.
 
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Did some more sort/org/purge of materials. The top tray of main toolchest is full of random stuff. Can't really see, have to dig. So it all came out for evaluation and re-homing. The trash bin can be a home. Need some more organizer bins but used the existing HF molded organizers for now.

Went through all my brass fittings. Threw away things I couldn't identify. Moved some things into inverted flare/ORB/AN bins. Sorted by size instead of function. Tossed most of the 45* flare fitting and compression. Can't remember last time I needed either of them. Kept one of a given fitting not four. Had a bag of hinges, moved to a divider now everything is visible and I can see what I have or not. Same for chain, rope, pulley, links, hooks, shackles, yolks and so on.

Went through my stash of automotive specific fasteners. Tossed one-offs, bolts I won't spend time to clean. Kept the good stuff and put bolts in corresponding sized drawer, and the rest in a divider bin.

Purged my prized collection of plastic & rubber plugs and caps. Went through the random o-rings, square rings, rubber washers, grommets, plugs and put them in corresponding bins.

Went through 7/16, 1/2 and larger bolt drawers. Tossed all the split locks and random sized washers. Kept only a few regular nuts, G8. I use kept nuts now instead of nut+washer.

Went through all the **** in main toolchest side cabinet. PPE, gloves, bags, pads, lights, masks. Moved the rest of the tools out of it into drawers.

I'd say I have 20 hours into this re-org. Not the most fun job, but it feels good to have things sorted. I know what I have and where it is. Well except that I moved everything and can't find anything.
 
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rattle_snake

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Been processing the welding cart debacle in the background. Trying to consider the usage of the TIG in relation to my welding bench and the 220V receptacles. Two on left and one on the right side of bench. Can move the press someplace else now, doesn't really need to be where it is anymore. So maybe the TIG can go there, which is where the previous TIG machine was.

Turning the side chest into a cart negates the additional footprint issue, so maybe that is the path and I get to buy/fab stuff. TIG on it's own cart with bottle. MIG cart lightened up, maybe even store the 110V machine under the plasma table. It's a PITA to get in/out of the current cart and the leads fall on the ground even wrapped up. Could enclose the lower portion to store weld wire spools and/or the spool gun.

Not that I need another project right now in addition to CNC router. Trying to buy a CV IFS today for F100 as well.
 
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rattle_snake said:
I'd say I have 20 hours into this re-org. Not the most fun job, but it feels good to have things sorted. I know what I have and where it is. Well except that I moved everything and can't find anything.
Click to expand...

:lol_hitti

The struggle is real. I have several organizers with random hardware that I've picked up over the years, as well as drawers, cabinets, and toolboxes. I started putting like with like over the winter, but got bogged down by other projects. My big issue is a large part of the stuff in the organizers I'm sure is useful to somebody, but not to me. Like miscellaneous audio bits and bobs, or a bunch of slotted wood screws. I'll never use them but hate to just pitch them!
 
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I have two bins for "suspiciously Toyota bolts" and "suspiciously ACVW bolts". Both are very useful when I need an OEM bolt to replace one missing or to make what I'm adding look like its factory. The rest is scattered all over the place. I might have gone a little overboard when my last employer closed down and I could have it if wasn't capital property and I could carry it out to the truck.
 
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It's only a couple miles into town, and the local hardware stores have decent stuff. It's just the basics though any special type fasteners I'm driving 10 miles to the bigger town or looking online. I try to keep a decent collection of stuff in my fastener cabinet, but it always seems no matter how much you have it's everything except what you need.
 
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rattle_snake

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After better understanding the y-axis range, I decided it could be better. Moved the rails back about 3" which increases the range by 3, now it is 43". Moving it farther won't help. Moving one set of the old hole was too much (6").
juWDBS48-4t7DJMyn7mqg=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

The guide carrier plate seemed to banana when the bolts were torqued. I added another fastener on both ends to provide more even clamping. The real issue was that the countersinks were not deep enough, preventing the plate from sitting flat. The fasteners I used in the end are taller that the one I used to set depth. I went back and re-machined all 32 holes on x and y.
NwgxyQIB3g-Q6cSjQWpeQ=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

I also moved the gantry back farther on the guild ends. This doesn't increase travel, but it centers it better on the table.
ggPjoVyEWpCQ7k2WxjRBQ=w683-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

So going backwards but that is how it goes.

In this case the math of the y rail travel is (rail - end block length), assuming the rails are properly offset and ballscrew properly offset to not impose any restrictions. I didn't quite understand all this in initial design phase. The end blocks are 10", rail is 53. To get a full 48" travel out of the 53" rail the distance between the y guides can only be 5". The farther they are apart, the better the stability. So a balance.

To do over I'd probably have made them 5", because magic number. 43 to 48 increase in y direction doesn't really make any useful improvement so it will stay as is for now. Move on to the other 37 aspects of the project.
 
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rattle_snake

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Bigblue&Goldie said:
I always look at Justin's projects and think "definitely an engineer!" He's always got unique ideas and solutions. It's cool to watch.
Click to expand...
Thank you Ryan. I enjoy the challenge of finding solutions, understanding the important aspects and incremental improvements. This CNC router is a good example. In the beginning it was overwhelming, many unknowns, a lot of learning needed just to understand if I wanted to take the project on (plus invest $$). I like to watch projects come together but it typically comes back apart 10 times because I'm learning in the process and don't have things all figured out. Hopefully my tone and style are not arrogant. Not wanting anyone to feel inadequate. That said I feel the same way about some of the other member here. They have incredible skills and experience I don't have, so it is fun to watch and learn.
 
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rattle_snake

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Started on mounting the electronics in the 'media' cabinet. I noticed that some of the connectors on the 4 higher current stepper drives were loose. Cold solder joints. China's finest. They look like knock-offs. I have two other w/o heatsink that appear to be much higher quality.
Anyhow, cannot use them as-is they will have intermittent failures. I popped the top off and pulled the PCB for repairs. Looks like design had some ECOs along the way.
nsEyTX-61z1LWcv9wMIA=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

The three connectors do different stuff. Two of them have high current, power input and motor drive. They have big fat traces, which absorb heat and caused the poor/cold solder joints. Leaded components use a solder 'bath', they dip the whole bottom of board surface in the pool for some amount of time. Not enough in this case. And no QC.
I re-flowed all the pins and cleaned all the flux off the PCBs before putting them back in. One unit is missing the heat transfer goo between the heatskink and the drive IC.
Pd1vhrv1wEEF-LBAxdZQ=w1215-h911-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
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Decided to mount the stepper drivers to a piece of aluminum to avoid lots of tiny holes and screws in the mounting cabinet.
mTsx0Vhak90ShcGgSKdYQ=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

Tapped M3 threads in tube to mount the driver.
_9k_oIl85OV6s1yWYOdZw=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

This spaces the heatsinks off the cabinet wall for better thermal transfer and allows access to the cabinet mounting fasteners. The assembly then mounts to the cabinet with just two M4 rivnuts
f2dIuLeh9kEmQkD2MOq7Q=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

The 36 VDC power supply has tapped threads on bottom, so screw would have to enter from behind. But it blocks one of the four recessed cabinet mounting hole. So they prevent one another from being usable.
i_ELW80V_geJSPNRy7dTg=w455-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

I found some HW to external mount and put in riv nut backward to not have the stickout prevent the back wall from sitting flush on the mounts.
9N_-6CukYUAFzNskNjIwA=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg

The coolant pump is a submersible and needs a power source. Luckily the one that came in the box of 'stuff' is 220V. I didn't want to have to use a common wire to get 110V, as the nearest 220V subpanel/receptacle doesn't have a common conductor. Ceiling is not accessible can't add. The pump has a non polarized nema 1-15P, but that is supposed indicate 110 VAC in the US. I had a nema 6-15R which is 220 VAC 15A in my stash so I got creative mounting it in the large knockouts that the enclosure has.
AZMyd3KB4hhKecef1fYow=w809-h607-s-no-gm?authuser=1.jpg
 
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lilscorpion

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Love the progress. Can’t wait to see it move. But you can’t wait to see it move more!

Note on the hardware purge I’ve shifted away from keeping random stuff as well however, I have started to accumulate things that fit into the typical need category. It’s such a freaking waste to have to drive to the store for two bolts even if the stores are only 5 miles away. I’d rather invest in 20 of every size and have what I need as I need it. It is an initial investment but the time optimization feels worth it that said, when I take my final breath, I do feel a little bad for the hardware store I’ll leave behind for my family to deal with
 
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rattle_snake

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lilscorpion said:
Love the progress. Can’t wait to see it move. But you can’t wait to see it move more!

Note on the hardware purge I’ve shifted away from keeping random stuff as well however, I have started to accumulate things that fit into the typical need category. It’s such a freaking waste to have to drive to the store for two bolts even if the stores are only 5 miles away. I’d rather invest in 20 of every size and have what I need as I need it. It is an initial investment but the time optimization feels worth it that said, when I take my final breath, I do feel a little bad for the hardware store I’ll leave behind for my family to deal with
Click to expand...
Thanks Matt. I was quite jealous when you setup your shop sabre and starting making stuff. Dust collection and so on.

Yes I'm with you on stocking the common things in larger quantities. I guess that is where my personal HW store has gone. Toss the randoms and buy kits or bulk.

zmotorsports said:
I thought the same thing. I hadn't thought to use them inverted before. Thanks Justin.
Click to expand...
senlow said:
It's crazy simple and absolutely brilliant. I learned something new today.
Click to expand...
I'd like to take credit for the idea, but I saw them used like that on large import fans I bought. At first I thought what ghetto way to connect the large heavy fan barrel to the mounts. Why? Then realized the fan blades would have hit them on the inside so they just put them in backwards as a band-aid solution. Molded the bushing with holes to fit upside down rivnuts.

The problem with this is that the threads are on the same side as the clamping torque. The normal rivnut design puts the threads on the opposite side of the sheet material, and helps compress the rivnut, clamp the sheet, and prevent spinning.

Using them backwards is fine for light duty use. But they can spin easier or get ripped out. Over compression will just distort the threads in the barrel.
 
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rattle_snake

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Most of the din rail stuff arrived. I have waffled on what to do with the DC power supplies. The kit came with a 36 VDC for steppers. This is too much for the controller, max 32. So I adjusted the voltage down to 30.

The controller used opio-couplers to isolate it's spindle outputs to the VFD and external coolant pump relay. When activated, current to LED, photons make transistor saturate, close the switch. But the transistors are small and fragile, and can only have up to 20 mA flowing through it. The max voltage rating isn't stated. They show schematic, up to 24 VDC. Probably work fine at 30 same as it's main power supply.

All the DC coil din mount relays I could find on amazon used more than 20 ma. 220V AC coil option is low enough current, but voltage too high. I found some phx contact 24 VDC coil relays at digikey that have low enough holding current. Controller doc says STONGLY RECCOMEND USE OF 24 VDC. Current is <0.5 A.
Fine, buy a 24 VDC supply and run the stuff as intended, simple. The VFD has a terminal labeled '24V' but there is no description of it, it's use, restrictions, or specifications. After reading same 5 pages 20 times I see a note in a wiring diagram, 100mA. So this could have been used to drive the relays, but janky and not enough to run the controller itself.

Then found a small din rail 220 VAC to 24 VDC power supply for all things 24 and can run the steppers at 36 like intended. The 36V power supply is only 11 A. Only three motors can move at the same time, and can use all 11 A depending on configuration. When holding position, all four motors use 1/2 current but at 100% duty cycle for duration of cut program. Running this already marginal supply at 30 VDC just makes margins worse, and don't want to further load with other stuff.

Mounted the din rails on the cabinet. Still waiting on relay.
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rattle_snake

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Started on mounting the CNC controller, VFD and main power switch. My brain likes to work in a corrodinate system with origin in lower left, so that is where the control station will go. Made a flange so it is removable.
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There are multiple ways to control the VFD. Can use it's front panel and have no connection to CNC controller, or let CNC controller do everything. Or something in between. So I mounted it with CNC controller instead with the electronics enclosure on the back.
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rattle_snake

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Sourced a juction box to install controller in. Cut a hole in the lid, friction fit.
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Extended the mount pole and added a flange at an angle. Too floppy have to go back and modify.
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Located the main power switch below the VFD.
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Added some bracing to the bed.
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Moved the gantry out of the way with a pair of drills.
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Added supports for the equipment enclosure. Hit the steel yard and picked up some rems. Ended up with a stick of odd sized sq tube. 0.883 which doesn't correspond to fractional or metric.
I left 1" behind the bars to allow a 1/2 MDF rear wall, and have 1/2 left to support the bottom MDF around the perimeter.
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Made a cradle for the coolant tank out of angle.
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The coolant pump is a submersible, and has to fit into the tank. I bought one that specified a large enough ID opening. But the dimensions were not even close to reality and I had to cut the lid off and enlarge the hole. Luckily the walls are reasonably thick and can support attaching a flange. I cut a new lid on plasma and used riv nuts to secure. Needs a gasket, wish I had a laser to make them.... A blind bottom riv nut would be better. The tank is 5 gallons which is larger than I think I need. Smaller tanks are more expensive, so plan to not fill to the top. Machine is stationary so the lid doesn't really need to be perfectly sealed.
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The tank is secured with a bar at the top. Bought some drag chain but it seemed way to big. Waffled on how to mount for awhile. Cut up some metal for a bed, then changed directions and bought some smaller stuff. Made an upper mount, works but don't really need 180* bend. Might make something else.
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Reworked the the y-axis drive blocks, they were too thin and arms were at an angle. Also reworked the x-axis drive block to have some vertical adjustment and not bind up.
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Still an long way to go. Next step is drag chain mounting for the y-axis. Then can start wiring.
Enjoying the project even though I'm spending time redoing things. There is no timeline. I can make each aspect as complicated and custom as I want or quick and simple. Or circle back and improve.
 
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rattle_snake

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Soft jaws had lost most all the magnets so it was time for a new set. Bough a combo set, hard and rubber faced, 6" but vice is 5. So I cut the rubber faced one down to fit.
The vice had endured a lot of abuse. Hammer, torch. Now with a press and cost of new vices high I treat it better. Might have to restore and paint it.
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rattle_snake

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Started another project, the TIG cart. I usually don't try to have multiple projects going, but the CNC router will take time and I don't want to rush it. CV IFS for F100 fell though, so not started on that. Guitar kits still have not shipped, been four weeks now.

I decided to do the following:
Existing weld cart will get some minor changes then maybe a complete rebuild. In the short term, remove the Argon tank, remove the 110v MIG. I plan to put the Miller 375 plasma back onto this cart to be mobile, which is where it was. But need to get another plasma for CNC table first. Long term, build a better cart with lower center of gravity and larger wheels for easier mobility.

TIG will get it's own new cart using the HF 22" side chest. Build a chassis with low CoG. Step one was to removed the drawers, **** bolted on the sides, and the casters I added on the bottom. I studied the bottom of the chest and devised a plan to mount it to the chassis. It was built to be hung from the side not sit on it's floor. It has a 2" overhang to deal with. I made several sketches of different styles and ended up picking a path with a slightly narrower frame to have the rear wheel be flush with sides. 3" metal casters up front, 8" wheels out back. Using 1x2 16 ga rec tube because I have it, cut, and proceeded to weld the wrong pieces together. Resolved then welded the other end in the wrong spot. Found wrong value used in equations. Resolved that and called it quits for the night. Guess I didn't take any pics.
 
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