Mintgrun
Well-known member
I'm guessing you're right, RTM. It'd be the first aluminum one I've seen. It does look like aluminum where the plating remains, but the bare spots look more like pot-metal.
I thought that it would be Union when I picked it up and was surprised to see the MF markings on the rule. I did the magnet test on the square part but I wouldn’t swear to it being aluminum. It seems slightly heavier than expected. It’s definitely not magnetic though.Are you sure aluminum and not that die cast zinc or pot metal?
Does the square part match any of your Stanley or Union heads? That pattern with the loops makes me think Union, but I thought someone found a Stanley reference too.


Yeah, unfortunately with *85% of rules being interchangeable, and only about *20% of heads being marked, the chances of swapped pairs is huge. In shops where more than one square exists, and they are different brands, ……I thought that it would be Union when I picked it up and was surprised to see the MF markings on the rule.



I couldn’t pass these up, about 5 mi down the road and begging me to rescue. They “feel” very nice in the hand. Lighter then my Starrett and B&S’s … but not to light, and silky smooth. Now I need MORE… lol. I’ll welcome beaters…^ very nice. and in far better shape than the beater I picked up a few years ago.
Exactly! I’ve spent 30+ years in QC/ Inspection. My pockets feel empty in the land of “What If’s?”^ I only bought that thing because it was crazy cheap. I am definitely not a machinist. I suppose at some point I might actually have a need to use it.
Yes, I believe you’re correct. Thanks for the reminder.Looks to be in good condition. I think they are called points, not drill bits. Drill bits have a spiral flute, the points just have a hollow along one side. Probably a better name for it. They drill surprisingly well.
How about a push point/drill… because that’s what I revised it to…So, should a "push drill" be called a "push point"?
Thanks for the explanation. That would definitely make my tool has drill points as the shank is designed to fit the chuck of the push drill.Back in the early 1900s, when these push drills were a recent invention, the catalogs called the bits being discussed "drill points". and the early push drills were called "automatic drills". Drill points were sold with either a shank to fit the chuck of the automatic or push drill, or a straight shank to fit drills with three jaw chucks. (Goodell Pratt and Millers Falls used one style in early years, and North Bros used a different style of shank in Yankee tools.)
Well guys, whatever is the correct terminology for this tool, I have one. I’m calling it a Miller Falls 188A Push Drill. Mine also comes with 3 Fluted Shank Drill Bits. They are all different sizes. I believe my drill bits are a drill point style.And now they are called drill bits. The drill is the tool you hold in your hand, the point or bit is the piece that makes the hole.


That compass or keyhole saw shows up in their 1974 catalog, just to point you to an era to start





Cleaned up nicely.
Thank you! I just can’t get over how smooth this thing is. If you set the crank at say 12 O’Clock it falls right to the 6 O’Clock position. Precise not sloppy at all. Same with the chuck, closes up tight and holds very well. Amazing longevity.
It's missing the side handle, I'd find one and make it complete and easier to use.Cleaned up my Grandfathers No.2 tonight. I remember my father using this while growing up by his side. Always fascinated by it as a kid, and it still moves smooth as butter today. I degreased, hit with some 0000 steel wool and finished with some Wenol & Paste Wax. Add a few drops of Starrett oil and she’s good for another 70 years…
Steve![]()
I've never found the love of the side handle. I find I have better control with the main handle. How do you use it (hold it) that you feel the side handle helps?It's missing the side handle, I'd find one and make it complete and easier to use.
If you can use your chest to push on the handle then the side handle is in a good location to steady while the other hand cranks.I've never found the love of the side handle. I find I have better control with the main handle. How do you use it (hold it) that you feel the side handle helps?
I upgrade to a breast drill for that work. Don't want bruises ony pencil chest from the pointy end (except from a MF #2, which is dang near a breast drill)If you can use your chest to push on the handle then the side handle is in a good location to steady while the other hand cranks.
That explains the screw hole in the rear ! I have never seen one with it & this one has been A.W.O.L for at least 60 years. Was it Std. on the No. 2’s? Thank you for the info, guess I need to get busy looking!It's missing the side handle, I'd find one and make it complete and easier to use.