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Vintage Combination Square

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Old tool guy

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I used a gun blue first. Got several from Brownells a few years ago. My first attempt was the OXPHO-Blue on the smooth backside. It didn't work. Probably because the square is not tool or gun steel but a softer steel. Cleaned that off and used Formula 44/40. It worked better, but still had issues. Cleaned it off and washed the square with denatured alcohol. That worked. I was hoping the gun blue would work because if I used a paint it would fill the lines and numbers more. For the white I used a wax-like lacquer stick. Rub it in and wipe it off. Finally, I sprayed it with a clear lacquer.
Eric … not following you on the dark color. The last thing you mentioned was denatured alcohol … is that what darkened the steel? And can you be more specific on the lacquer stick. How did you get the steel completely clean before starting.
 

crguy

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This looks to be a version of Chaplin's patent center square. In fairly rough shape with a modified locking screw, mounted on a "M F Co" rule
1771891910464.png
Those are beautiful squares. Too bad about the condition. The correct blades are harder to find than the heads.
 

RTM

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This looks to be a version of Chaplin's patent center square. In fairly rough shape with a modified locking screw, mounted on a "M F Co" rule
Wow, haven't seen one of those in years. Forget where I saw it, but I'm guessing Alameda antique flea market.

It was in much worse shape than yours.
 

Eric Brown

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Eric … not following you on the dark color. The last thing you mentioned was denatured alcohol … is that what darkened the steel? And can you be more specific on the lacquer stick. How did you get the steel completely clean before starting.
The OXPHO-Blue and 44/40 are the chemicals that do the dark bluing. Mostly a wipe on wipe off application. Because I polished using a wax compound on a cotton wheel, I used the denatured alcohol to remove all the wax/oils before bluing.
 

Old tool guy

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The OXPHO-Blue and 44/40 are the chemicals that do the dark bluing. Mostly a wipe on wipe off application. Because I polished using a wax compound on a cotton wheel, I used the denatured alcohol to remove all the wax/oils before bluing.
You said the oxpho didn’t work, and the 44/40 had issues.
 

Eric Brown

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You said the oxpho didn’t work, and the 44/40 had issues.
The square was not tool steel and the OXPH didn't cover easily. The first time I tried the 44/40 there were areas that also didn't cover (blotchy). So I did a really good cleaning and wore plastic gloves when wiping down with the alcohol. Had to be really clean. That worked. The white lacquer stick is like a wax. Just rubbed it into the grooves and numbers and then wiped the top surface leaving the stamped areas white.
 
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Beerhippie

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The square was not tool steel and the OXPH didn't cover easily. The first time I tried the 44/40 there were areas that also didn't cover (blotchy). So I did a really good cleaning and wore plastic gloves when wiping down with the alcohol. Had to be really clean. That worked. The white lacquer stick is like a wax. Just rubbed it into the grooves and numbers and then wiped the top surface leaving the stamped areas white.
A handy trick for determining if a piece is clean enough for plating or treatment is the water bead test. If water (I use distilled) beads on the surface--anywhere on the surface--back to cleaning. If the water forms a nice, smooth film over everything, it's clean.
 

Eric Brown

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A handy trick for determining if a piece is clean enough for plating or treatment is the water bead test. If water (I use distilled) beads on the surface--anywhere on the surface--back to cleaning. If the water forms a nice, smooth film over everything, it's clean.
I use the water test when nickel plating. Didn't think about it for the Bluing. Probably because one of them said a little oil or rust would not matter much.
 

leg17

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Starrett made a variety of squares (obviously). I measured a few Starrett rules and most are .090" thick, but one is a fat .092".

The Starrett squares I have all use those big fat ball-end scribes.

The problem with identifying these tools is that the bits and pieces often get mix-matched over the years and they don't often mark the logo on the square itself. I do have Starrett squares that are marked, but even more of them that are not.

That said, I assume the unmarked examples are Starrett based on the castings being the same and the thumb nut design.
I believe that the earliest Starrett square sets used a thinner blade, similar in thickness to the Bates example.
 

Eric Brown

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Here is an interesting steel square. Unmarked. Has slots to mark parallel lines down a board on 1/4" spacing. Several more interesting features, the end of the short leg is at an angle the is equal to a 1:8 ratio for dovetails. The slot with the rounded ends, would mark a slot 1/2" wide 1/2" from the edge of the board. Have no idea about the smaller rounded notch. The edge that rides against the board is staked on. Anybody have knowledge as to who or when it was made? Belongs to a friend who wanted it nickel plated.

Square 1.JPG

Square 2.JPG

Square 3.JPG
 

RTM

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jorp_porp

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leg17

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