GrayFlattop
Well-known member
Glued more maple to MDF. Put some tools away along with the contents of a few Bezos boxes. Made plans that didn’t quite match up with my available energy, so I called it an early day after some time in the garden.
I think I bought four of them when the local Radio Shack had their clearance sale years ago. I can still account for two. Lenses from the magnifiers have all been repurposed as solar cigarette lighters.I have one of those. You can have it when you pry it from my cold dead hands.

Well, there's your solution! Just keep a prybar handy! Better than a kill switch!
Seriously, with the wire path you describe and the battery and starter being so close together, I'd add a simple relay between the battery and the starter to keep that wire as short as possible. Already having a wire from the key/fuseblock makes it easy enough.
Another thing that never hurts is a ground strap directly from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame of the rig. Aluminum/magnesium isn't the world's best conductor.

Since you used a harness made by others, it's possible that your starter wire is copper plated instead of actual copper. Those are really prone to oxidizing off the plating and becoming resistive under continued high heat/load conditions. Adding a heat shield and a length of woven heat tube, like they use on oxygen sensors, over the harness, should defend it from future damage.

There's a reason for that.....
This isn’t a unique problem. There’s a common hack fix adding a Ford starter relay, and wiring it between Batt and S.....
There’s a common hack fix adding a Ford starter relay, and wiring it between Batt and S. I don’t yet want to do that.
This explains an issue with a relatives 77 Corvette that I encountered last year. I may help him connect a relay to it next time we're at his house. I guess the feed wire comes from the Batt terminal on the starter to the relay then S terminal and the trigger is from the ignition switch to the relay then to ground?The battery itself is in the trunk.
With the ignition on, a pry bar fits between the battery lug and the start (S) lug
while being long enough to keep away from the hot exhaust pipe running past there.
This isn’t a unique problem. There’s a common hack fix adding a Ford starter relay, and wiring it between Batt and S. I don’t yet want to do that.
This explains an issue with a relatives 77 Corvette that I encountered last year. I may help him connect a relay to it next time we're at his house. I guess the feed wire comes from the Batt terminal on the starter to the relay then S terminal and the trigger is from the ignition switch to the relay then to ground?


Don't forget to add a Fuse or CB between the relay and the battery.I believe Painless basically copies the old GM wiring scheme. There’s really only one way to do this, given the pieces to be connected. They definitely on purpose copy the wire colour codes.
As supplied, the Painless harness start circuit looks like:
Your Corvette should be very similar.
The idea is that the old wiring, switch contacts, connector contacts, have all degraded somewhat with age and heat cycles. Pulling ~15 amps through all of this old stuff is unreliable. The wire gauge was barely adequate when brand new, the connectors, at best, were just good enough. So now, many years later, the circuit can no longer deliver what it could when new, and starting is now unreliable. Or maybe doesn’t work at all after being unreliable for some time.
You can go through the circuit, replacing switches, replacing connector contacts, run new wire. That’s a lot of work. Or, you can reduce the load on the old circuit by adding a relay to create new circuit. With new terminals, heavy gauge wire, located close to the load, now your old circuit just has to enable the relay. Like:
It’s relatively quick and easy, and generally should work pretty well with a minimum of hassle. The Ford starter relay is the traditional addition, though any relay capable of handling a ~15a load with nice big beefy terminals for some 10ga or even 8ga wire will do the job. Mount it “near“ the starter, and use short lengths of heavy gauge wire to connect it to Batt and S and away you go.



Not much in the garage today...
I was watching Eric O on S M Auto do some wiring repair today and noticed he was using what looked like a DIY soldering aid using it to do a **** solder joint on some broken wiring... I thought, hey that's good, I would try and make one too...
I seem to recall that these Pinces Crocodile clips were a very popular item used for another purpose back in the 60's...
Spare alligator clips in my junk drawer...
"U" Bent a copper roofing nail...
And a bit of soldering... And voila, "Helping Fingers"
I know you can buy these on the Jungle site, but what's the fun in that?
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Nice job!
I've been wanting one of these. Nice magnet swivels and base.
Some ideas for your Rev 2 version.
I think @zmotorsports showed this tool a long time ago.
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Next time you run into something like that try 50/50 ATF/acetone. That, and a little heat hasn't failed me yet.Spent 4 hours fighting to get the distributor out of this 289.
With how much this thing is worth, I couldn't just go all brute strength on it. I sprayed, heated, and lightly tapped then sprayed again. Nothing seemed to work. I really wanted to smack it with a BFH but cooler heads prevailed. I walked away from it for a bit and then came up with a new plan. I heated with a propane torch and then used the straw on the can of brake clean to spray the joint and I really hosed it down. It was like it was never stuck. It almost fell out.
After that I got the intake off and checked for rodents nests. There were none. Heads looked good, valley looked good. I'm beginning to believe the story the guy told about this being a 54k mile car. Too clean not to be.
The brake line kit came in the mail today so I started removing the old lines. They are all loose now and I'm ready to start installing the new ones when the rest of my brake line kit and wheel cylinders show up tomorrow.
On the way home from work tomorrow I get the new intake gasket, thermostat and gasket and then the carb kit. My copper oil pressure gauge line kit won't be here until the 6th!! That is what is holding me up from starting it. Soon though!
Glad to see that's the green can--non-chlorinated. The chlorinated stuff... you might not be writing about it. Chlorinated Brakleen + Heat = Phosgene gas. Inhalation of phosgene gas--even a little--means death or a lung transplant. More likely, death.
Almost only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, and atomic bombs.Removed the jointer and planer blades from my Hitachi PR12A. I have never sharpened them. I've had the planer since 1989. Planer blades were still sharp in some places. I almost sliced my finger open. The jointer blades were dull.
I've always known about this and taught it to quite a few people older than me, but I just looked up what temperature it happens from, and it's much lower than I expected. From a CRC Brakleen safety data sheet, it can happen as low as 150°C (302°F). The rest of Google reckons around 300°C (572°F). It is more likely to happen with direct flame or UV exposure.Glad to see that's the green can--non-chlorinated. The chlorinated stuff... you might not be writing about it. Chlorinated Brakleen + Heat = Phosgene gas. Inhalation of phosgene gas--even a little--means death or a lung transplant. More likely, death.
That has got to be a home built rig, I’ve never seen a set of pallet forks that weren’t one solid piece and bent 90° at the heels. Health and Safety won’t even let you waterjet (cold) a hole in the end of the fork let alone weld along the length of them and at the heel. No wonder they broke.I GOT AWAY WITH IT!
I laid down three gallons of weed poison this Am and early afternoon--and IT NEVER RAINED!
Then tried to fix a bent and torn fork on one of the owners' skid steer...
and failed. I tried to use the tilt to bend that gap closed--I cut out all the cracks--with the plan of cutting more, then bending more. It just lifts the front end of the skid steer off the ground.
My 140 amp Miller MIG is a little small for that, anyway.
Looking back at these pics, I can see where I needed to cut some more to be able to close that... then cut some more... then it would be my fault when it broke again. Owner is taking it to the local heavy equipment shop--a much better idea.
The owner was given the skid steer. Go figure.That has got to be a home built rig, I’ve never seen a set of pallet forks that weren’t one solid piece and bent 90° at the heels. Health and Safety won’t even let you waterjet (cold) a hole in the end of the fork let alone weld along the length of them and at the heel. No wonder they broke.
I would guess the equipment shop won’t touch them with a ten foot pole for liability reasons.



Maybe not. That laminated type of pallet fork-ish thing was one of the manufactured options for my Dingo. I went for the classic adjustable L-forks. Quite a bit heavier, but made me happy as I wanted that adjustability to manage different width loads..That has got to be a home built rig, I’ve never seen a set of pallet forks that weren’t one solid piece and bent 90° at the heels. Health and Safety won’t even let you waterjet (cold) a hole in the end of the fork let alone weld along the length of them and at the heel. No wonder they broke.
I would guess the equipment shop won’t touch them with a ten foot pole for liability reasons.
I have started labeling anything that needs a reminder for changing, like vacuum bags....
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Off subject, but how do you like the CRC Brakecleaner? I just started using it at work, seems ok, but prefer the CarQuest that I cant get here any longer. I tried a can of NAPA Macs, nasty, nasty stuff. Made my hands sting through nitrile gloves.Spent 4 hours fighting to get the distributor out of this 289.
With how much this thing is worth, I couldn't just go all brute strength on it. I sprayed, heated, and lightly tapped then sprayed again. Nothing seemed to work. I really wanted to smack it with a BFH but cooler heads prevailed. I walked away from it for a bit and then came up with a new plan. I heated with a propane torch and then used the straw on the can of brake clean to spray the joint and I really hosed it down. It was like it was never stuck. It almost fell out.
After that I got the intake off and checked for rodents nests. There were none. Heads looked good, valley looked good. I'm beginning to believe the story the guy told about this being a 54k mile car. Too clean not to be.
The brake line kit came in the mail today so I started removing the old lines. They are all loose now and I'm ready to start installing the new ones when the rest of my brake line kit and wheel cylinders show up tomorrow.
On the way home from work tomorrow I get the new intake gasket, thermostat and gasket and then the carb kit. My copper oil pressure gauge line kit won't be here until the 6th!! That is what is holding me up from starting it. Soon though!
Looms a little neater than my "scrawled with a Sharpie" labels.Printed label using my Brother Bluetooth cube printer (PT-P710BT). Love this thing....you create the labels from a phone app and it prints out....I'm sure there are other ones out there, but this one has been a workhorse.
I have started labeling anything that needs a reminder for changing, like vacuum bags....
or furnace filters....
Trying to keep up with these dates is for the birds....
