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kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,295
Location
Upstate New York
Put up sceened in porch tent.

Drained generator gas, drained carb, added new gas, no start. Used happy juice, starts right up. Opened carb drain, no gas. Took carb off, has electric kill on bottom of carb, can't get screws loose.

Replacement huayi carb will be here Friday, 20 bucks.

Can I buy ethanol free gas ?
Sunoco has ethanol free high test.
 

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
11,976
Location
Southeastern Pa
Removed wiring harness until I could get the 12ga purple wire from the neutral safety switch to the starter S terminal loose.

IMG_9353.jpeg

I think this is where my intermittent hot no start issue is hiding. When I bypass it, starts fine.

Tomorrow I’ll get some new wire and start working on putting it back together.
How many amps is the solenoid drawing to have a 12ga wire on it?
 

OccupantRJ

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
10,865
Location
Eastern North Carolina
As I was waiting for hoist paint to dry I rolled the Mongo blast cabinet out from the corner to give it and the corner a five year deep cleaning. It is amazing the monster dustball/cobweb bunnies that accumulate under and behind it over time, even with cleaning what can be reached while it is in position. I previously unitized the blast cabinet and filter baghouse system into a rolling dolly to make things easier in cleaning and relocating. There is a floor mounted angle iron guide rail along with a ball bearing roller on the corner of the base dolly to assist positioning when going back into the corner. That was all well worth building. Link to the guide rail project.

 

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DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,237
Location
DeKalb, IL
How many amps is the solenoid drawing to have a 12ga wire on it?

Google suggests an SBC starter has a 10-15a draw after an initial spike of 30-50a.

So 12ga should be enough. And it was. I wired the car with a Painless harness in 2016. It was fine, until last year.

I think this wire is heat damaged. It runs from the top of the transmission (NSS is mounted on the floor shifter base), down along the case to the pan where it picks up the other 700R4 wiring and comes up the firewall. Transmission is hot. It runs past the exhaust pipe, another heat source.

From there, it crosses over the engine, along with the wiring for the oil pressure sender, distributor, carburetor choke, and A/C compressor. On the drivers side, this bundle was laying on the back of the engine. Passenger side had it secured to the firewall.

I think over time the heat got to it. The symptom is that it’ll start great when cold. When hot, the key turns and nothing happens. When cold, there is 10-11V at the S terminal while cranking. When hot, it’s around 6.5V, not enough to get the solenoid to pull in, so the starter doesn’t engage. If I connect the battery terminal directly to S with the end of a prybar, it cranks fine and starts right up. If I sit with the hood open for a while, it cools off enough to start.

I added a second wire to S, ran it inside, and used an alligator clip to connect to NSS, starts fine, hot or cold. That additional capacity, on this specific leg of the circuit, is what convinced me that this specific wire has failed. It confirms what the meter shows with voltage drops along the circuit path from battery to fuse panel to column key switch to NSS to starter S.

There’s no visible damage to this wire, I suspect that the heat damaged the copper over time. Without stripping the insulation off, I can’t see it. I may do that, once I get it all back together.

Last year, before the season ended, I added some heat shield sheathing, and pulled the harness up off the engine on the drivers side. In re-running this circuit, I’ll put the shielding stuff back on, and secure the harness off the engine. I’m also going to step it up to 10ga. This circuit runs in some hot places, I can’t change that, so I’m thinking that the additional capacity of the larger gauge wire can only help with any heat related degradation.

Only time will prove me right or wrong on this one. I think I’m right. But I’m doing Power Tour in a couple of weeks. That should provide some nice hot driving conditions to prove it. I’ll bring my jumper wire and my prybar just in case.
 

Hooked

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
417
Location
League City, Texas
Spent time disassembling a daughters Shimano 200 (greenie) reel which hadn't been cleaned for unknown years. Removing the left side plate was the only stubborn piece which, after soaking for two days with Kroil refused to move. After removing everything else I put the frame in the sonic cleaned filled with Simple Green/water and heat for 16 minutes which works as I had hoped and the piece easily unscrewed. So, only have to replace the locking disc on the side plate (which she had broken trying to remove..lol).
Then grandson came over with his F150 which he'd just gotten back from Caliber Collision after a lady wiped out the passenger side of the truck. He needed help reinstalling his 'speaker panel' but this time around he wanted it mounted in a more permanent fashion. Previously, it was simply sitting above the rear seat held in only by the headrests. It's now secured in place with minimal "cosmetic influence" to the interior upholstery.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,490
Location
Far NE Oregon
If I connect the battery terminal directly to S with the end of a prybar, it cranks fine and starts right up.
Well, there's your solution! Just keep a prybar handy! Better than a kill switch!

Seriously, with the wire path you describe and the battery and starter being so close together, I'd add a simple relay between the battery and the starter to keep that wire as short as possible. Already having a wire from the key/fuseblock makes it easy enough.

Another thing that never hurts is a ground strap directly from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame of the rig. Aluminum/magnesium isn't the world's best conductor.
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,019
Location
The Badlands
Well, there's your solution! Just keep a prybar handy! Better than a kill switch!

Seriously, with the wire path you describe and the battery and starter being so close together, I'd add a simple relay between the battery and the starter to keep that wire as short as possible. Already having a wire from the key/fuseblock makes it easy enough.

Another thing that never hurts is a ground strap directly from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame of the rig. Aluminum/magnesium isn't the world's best conductor.

Samurai's have a chronic problem with the starter circuit, and the issue is actually the key switch and its inadequate contacts. The relay Timm describes is the "clicky starer fix" and works well. I've seen start switches at the key literally melt down from the resistance in the switch.
 

Jakeweldsalittle

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2024
Messages
57
So you're the guy that washed and detailed his truck causing it to rain this weekend and make my life miserable since the wife is pissed about the rain ruining her annual picnic that she's been preparing for the last 3 weeks🤬
My apologies to your Mrs. Mine isn't thrilled about the weather forecast, either. Apparently, it didn't help when I told her I can drink beer in the rain just as well as I can in the sun. I've seen me do it! :LOL:
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,490
Location
Far NE Oregon
So you're the guy that washed and detailed his truck causing it to rain this weekend and make my life miserable since the wife is pissed about the rain ruining her annual picnic that she's been preparing for the last 3 weeks🤬
I have worse news for you all: I'm spraying the parking lot for weeds. While it's perfectly clear, blue sky right now, this always brings rain.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,295
Location
Upstate New York
Google suggests an SBC starter has a 10-15a draw after an initial spike of 30-50a.

So 12ga should be enough. And it was. I wired the car with a Painless harness in 2016. It was fine, until last year.

I think this wire is heat damaged. It runs from the top of the transmission (NSS is mounted on the floor shifter base), down along the case to the pan where it picks up the other 700R4 wiring and comes up the firewall. Transmission is hot. It runs past the exhaust pipe, another heat source.

From there, it crosses over the engine, along with the wiring for the oil pressure sender, distributor, carburetor choke, and A/C compressor. On the drivers side, this bundle was laying on the back of the engine. Passenger side had it secured to the firewall.

I think over time the heat got to it. The symptom is that it’ll start great when cold. When hot, the key turns and nothing happens. When cold, there is 10-11V at the S terminal while cranking. When hot, it’s around 6.5V, not enough to get the solenoid to pull in, so the starter doesn’t engage. If I connect the battery terminal directly to S with the end of a prybar, it cranks fine and starts right up. If I sit with the hood open for a while, it cools off enough to start.

I added a second wire to S, ran it inside, and used an alligator clip to connect to NSS, starts fine, hot or cold. That additional capacity, on this specific leg of the circuit, is what convinced me that this specific wire has failed. It confirms what the meter shows with voltage drops along the circuit path from battery to fuse panel to column key switch to NSS to starter S.

There’s no visible damage to this wire, I suspect that the heat damaged the copper over time. Without stripping the insulation off, I can’t see it. I may do that, once I get it all back together.

Last year, before the season ended, I added some heat shield sheathing, and pulled the harness up off the engine on the drivers side. In re-running this circuit, I’ll put the shielding stuff back on, and secure the harness off the engine. I’m also going to step it up to 10ga. This circuit runs in some hot places, I can’t change that, so I’m thinking that the additional capacity of the larger gauge wire can only help with any heat related degradation.

Only time will prove me right or wrong on this one. I think I’m right. But I’m doing Power Tour in a couple of weeks. That should provide some nice hot driving conditions to prove it. I’ll bring my jumper wire and my prybar just in case.
Since you used a harness made by others, it's possible that your starter wire is copper plated instead of actual copper. Those are really prone to oxidizing off the plating and becoming resistive under continued high heat/load conditions. Adding a heat shield and a length of woven heat tube, like they use on oxygen sensors, over the harness, should defend it from future damage.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,490
Location
Far NE Oregon
Since you used a harness made by others, it's possible that your starter wire is copper plated instead of actual copper.
Trying to find LAN cable that's pure copper will drive you up the wall. I think I returned four coils of CAT5 before I finally got one that was, as advertised, pure copper instead of copper-plated aluminum. The aluminum is not very resistant to bend stressing and breaks at the bends due to expansion/contraction cycles.
 

rzims

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
448
Location
Grass Valley, CA
I've got a couple slabs of beetle kill pine and the designer/boss/wife, wanted some shelves for the bedroom instead of nightstands...
Cleaned out the holes with a dental pick and vacuum, then filled them with some drown epoxy and coated with poly....
 

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Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,019
Location
The Badlands
I've got a couple slabs of beetle kill pine and the designer/boss/wife, wanted some shelves for the bedroom instead of nightstands...
Cleaned out the holes with a dental pick and vacuum, then filled them with some drown epoxy and coated with poly....

I'd have fumigated the wood as well - a gas soaked rag and seal it up in a bucket or barrel will do the trick.

We inherited my moms Jewelry cabinet, (the four legged free standing type) and one leg had gotten termites up from the floor of her house, I removed all the legs (bolted on) and that leg was al that was infested. I actually injected gas into it and had termites coming out.

That leg was less than half the weight of the other legs and only like 2 hols in the bottom of the foot.

White gas, camp fuel, or zippo type lighter fluid work as well and won't stain/stink as bad. - well Colman Fuel may as they added a green dye,
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,490
Location
Far NE Oregon
I'd have fumigated the wood as well - a gas soaked rag and seal it up in a bucket or barrel will do the trick.

We inherited my moms Jewelry cabinet, (the four legged free standing type) and one leg had gotten termites up from the floor of her house, I removed all the legs (bolted on) and that leg was al that was infested. I actually injected gas into it and had termites coming out.

That leg was less than half the weight of the other legs and only like 2 hols in the bottom of the foot.

White gas, camp fuel, or zippo type lighter fluid work as well and won't stain/stink as bad. - well Colman Fuel may as they added a green dye,
"Beetle kill" pine is a completely different critter. Once the larvae turn into adults, they leave--for good. Termites, carpenter ants or powder-post beetles all stick around 'til the wood is gone and need some killin'.
 
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Snip's

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,829
Location
Ohio
Not much in the garage today...

I was watching Eric O on S M Auto do some wiring repair today and noticed he was using what looked like a DIY soldering aid using it to do a **** solder joint on some broken wiring... I thought, hey that's good, I would try and make one too...

I seem to recall that these Pinces Crocodile clips were a very popular item used for another purpose back in the 60's...

Spare alligator clips in my junk drawer...
IMG_5546 2.jpg

"U" Bent a copper roofing nail...
IMG_5548.jpg

And a bit of soldering... And voila, "Helping Fingers"
I know you can buy these on the Jungle site, but what's the fun in that?
IMG_5549 2.jpg
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,739
Location
Northern Virginia
Not much in the garage today...

I was watching Eric O on S M Auto do some wiring repair today and noticed he was using what looked like a DIY soldering aid using it to do a **** solder joint on some broken wiring... I thought, hey that's good, I would try and make one too...

I seem to recall that these Pinces Crocodile clips were a very popular item used for another purpose back in the 60's...

Spare alligator clips in my junk drawer...
IMG_5546 2.jpg

"U" Bent a copper roofing nail...
IMG_5548.jpg

And a bit of soldering... And voila, "Helping Fingers"
I know you can buy these on the Jungle site, but what's the fun in that?
IMG_5549 2.jpg
Nice job!

I've been wanting one of these. Nice magnet swivels and base.

Some ideas for your Rev 2 version.

I think @zmotorsports showed this tool a long time ago.

1779309470481.jpeg
1779309555356.jpeg
 

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
11,976
Location
Southeastern Pa
Google suggests an SBC starter has a 10-15a draw after an initial spike of 30-50a.

So 12ga should be enough. And it was. I wired the car with a Painless harness in 2016. It was fine, until last year.

I think this wire is heat damaged. It runs from the top of the transmission (NSS is mounted on the floor shifter base), down along the case to the pan where it picks up the other 700R4 wiring and comes up the firewall. Transmission is hot. It runs past the exhaust pipe, another heat source.

From there, it crosses over the engine, along with the wiring for the oil pressure sender, distributor, carburetor choke, and A/C compressor. On the drivers side, this bundle was laying on the back of the engine. Passenger side had it secured to the firewall.

I think over time the heat got to it. The symptom is that it’ll start great when cold. When hot, the key turns and nothing happens. When cold, there is 10-11V at the S terminal while cranking. When hot, it’s around 6.5V, not enough to get the solenoid to pull in, so the starter doesn’t engage. If I connect the battery terminal directly to S with the end of a prybar, it cranks fine and starts right up. If I sit with the hood open for a while, it cools off enough to start.

I added a second wire to S, ran it inside, and used an alligator clip to connect to NSS, starts fine, hot or cold. That additional capacity, on this specific leg of the circuit, is what convinced me that this specific wire has failed. It confirms what the meter shows with voltage drops along the circuit path from battery to fuse panel to column key switch to NSS to starter S.

There’s no visible damage to this wire, I suspect that the heat damaged the copper over time. Without stripping the insulation off, I can’t see it. I may do that, once I get it all back together.

Last year, before the season ended, I added some heat shield sheathing, and pulled the harness up off the engine on the drivers side. In re-running this circuit, I’ll put the shielding stuff back on, and secure the harness off the engine. I’m also going to step it up to 10ga. This circuit runs in some hot places, I can’t change that, so I’m thinking that the additional capacity of the larger gauge wire can only help with any heat related degradation.

Only time will prove me right or wrong on this one. I think I’m right. But I’m doing Power Tour in a couple of weeks. That should provide some nice hot driving conditions to prove it. I’ll bring my jumper wire and my prybar just in case.
Have a amp clamp to check it with?
High amp draw is tough on the ign switch as well as the NSS.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,490
Location
Far NE Oregon
I GOT AWAY WITH IT!

I laid down three gallons of weed poison this Am and early afternoon--and IT NEVER RAINED!

Then tried to fix a bent and torn fork on one of the owners' skid steer...

55283731480_b4032d735a_o.jpg

55283554709_a5a6c8d502_o.jpg

and failed. I tried to use the tilt to bend that gap closed--I cut out all the cracks--with the plan of cutting more, then bending more. It just lifts the front end of the skid steer off the ground.

My 140 amp Miller MIG is a little small for that, anyway.

Looking back at these pics, I can see where I needed to cut some more to be able to close that... then cut some more... then it would be my fault when it broke again. Owner is taking it to the local heavy equipment shop--a much better idea.
 

Snip's

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,829
Location
Ohio
Nice job!

I've been wanting one of these. Nice magnet swivels and base.

Some ideas for your Rev 2 version.

I think @zmotorsports showed this tool a long time ago.

1779309470481.jpeg
1779309555356.jpeg
This is what I copied from Eric O...
I need to add a few pieces of heat shrink tubing on mine to the alligator jaws to protect the wire insulation from being pierced...
Screen Shot 2026-05-20 at 6.02.14 PM.png
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,019
Location
The Badlands
and failed. I tried to use the tilt to bend that gap closed--I cut out all the cracks--with the plan of cutting more, then bending more. It just lifts the front end of the skid steer off the ground.

My 140 amp Miller MIG is a little small for that, anyway.

that needs a serious hydraulic press...

And for the smaller welders, something like that needs a good preheat with a rosebud. I'd probably do that even with an arc welder.
 

Ultradog MN

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2024
Messages
727
Location
Twin Cities
Well, I can't do this project IN my garage...
6' Bush Hog® rotary mower. Weighs about 1300 lbs.
I attemted this project last fall but could not get the stump jumper off (big round disc underneath that spins the blades) without destroying it.
But it MUST come off to replace the lower oil seal which is leaking badly. So I ordered a new stump jumper and am finally getting back to the project.
I had to use the sky hook and break out the smoke wrench to cut it off.
Of course there's always mission creep so now I'm thinking I'll get it sand blasted and repaint it.
I ordered 2 speedy sleeves, 3 oil seals and 2 gaskets for the gear box but they won't be here for few more days.
So I had the deck sandblasted and then brushed on primer and 2 coats of paint. The tail wheel needs some tweaking yet but it bolts on so I can put it back on without ruining my new paint.
It will get beat up again so the paint is mostly just for rust prevention.
 

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