larry4406
Well-known member
We do 3/4” when we put engineered hardwood on interior ceilings.
It’s nailed and glued in place.
Tongue and groove ceiling layouts and install suggestions
- Thread starter mike93lx
- Start date
It’s nailed and glued in place.
I figured a couple things into that suggestion:
_ its T&G, self supporting to a degree
_ its softwood = lightweight
_ lighter weight ply = easier to install
_ you wanted to be cheap
3/4" is better, if its pulling out of 7/16" youve got seismic concerns
Call me crazy but I would go 18g x 2" nails at a angle
_ its T&G, self supporting to a degree
_ its softwood = lightweight
_ lighter weight ply = easier to install
_ you wanted to be cheap
3/4" is better, if its pulling out of 7/16" youve got seismic concerns
Call me crazy but I would go 18g x 2" nails at a angle
All fairI figured a couple things into that suggestion:
_ its T&G, self supporting to a degree
_ its softwood = lightweight
_ lighter weight ply = easier to install
_ you wanted to be cheap
3/4" is better, if its pulling out of 7/16" youve got seismic concerns
Call me crazy but I would go 18g x 2" nails at a angle
I have a 16 and an 18. Figured the slightly larger head on the 16's might be nice for anything that needs a little manipulating.
I'll have to give it some thought. Thanks
JohnX14
Well-known member
Another vote here to plywood the ceiling. You're only talking 8 sheets. I'd use 1/2" fir plywood. It'll hold nails better than osb, and probably better than 3/4 advantec or whatever the hardwood was glued and nailed to.
JohnX14
Well-known member
I'm in the middle of this project. I wanted the T&G to look like it's structural 2" T&G. So obviously no trendy pattern. IDK if I'd go T&G for a trendy pattern like in the OP or some other posts. I like some of the patterns, I would maybe use something like the hardwood or a nickel gap. Just more of a modern look to go with the modern pattern.
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larry4406
Well-known member
@mike93lx some of the T&G boards had a bow in them in the plane of the board. This sometimes required some clever leveraging to get it seated properly prior to nailing. Otherwise your groove width varies and the pattern wanders and it cascades.
Having a plywood substrate allows you to simply pound in a flat head screw driver and pry away then pin it with the nail gun.
The plywood sure made it easier for the hardwood guys while working overhead.
Having a plywood substrate allows you to simply pound in a flat head screw driver and pry away then pin it with the nail gun.
The plywood sure made it easier for the hardwood guys while working overhead.
Man, I wish I knew peer pressure was this easy years ago...Yeah, yeah yeah, fine, I'll sheathe it.
billconner
Well-known member
I don't know what your lights are but mine would not have mounted in 3/4 ply plus one-by.
strutaeng
Well-known member
The real question is: What kind of finish are you going to put on it?
Some would say 12 coats of tongue oil, no less. Let dry 48 hrs. between coats. Re-apply every 2-3 months to keep the wood from drying out.
Some would say 12 coats of tongue oil, no less. Let dry 48 hrs. between coats. Re-apply every 2-3 months to keep the wood from drying out.
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strutaeng
Well-known member
...and I was joking on the second half.
I would do a semi-transparent waterborne "stain". Since its a ceiling and won't get much UV, it will last a very long life. I say "stain" because I think those products are more or less translucent acrylic products, rather than the stains most folks associate with, like the old fashioned oil stains. Still a good product IMO. I built this porch almost 10 years ago and used the Bear product and it held up better than I thought, with a good amount of summer sun exposure. That's neither here nor there, so sorry ramble on.
jar944
Well-known member
The real question is: What kind of finish are you going to put on it?
Some would say 12 coats of tongue oil, no less. Let dry 48 between coats. Re-apply every 2-3 months to keep the wood from drying out.
I'd suggest something more durable like a 2k poly or conversion varnish for longevity. Obviously only sprayed after installation and with a AAA sprayer for that smoothfinish. Goes without saying you will need a full face fresh air supply respirator.
I'm getting prefinished....and I was joking on the second half.
I would do a semi-transparent waterborne "stain". Since its a ceiling and won't get much UV, it will last a very long life. I say "stain" because I think those products are more or less translucent acrylic products, rather than the stains most folks associate with, like the old fashioned oil stains. Still a good product IMO. I built this porch almost 10 years ago and used the Bear product and it held up better than I thought, with a good amount of summer sun exposure. That's neither here nor there, so sorry ramble on.
I barely have time for the project at all, let alone finishing the boards
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jar944
Well-known member
bluedog225
Well-known member
You guys cost me money every time I visit. 
billconner
Well-known member
Easier than cutting after t&g is on place.