Vintage Grinder Sticker Reproduction
- Thread starter mattblast
- Start date
Made a reproduction Tibon nameplates for a Bridgeport milling machine. The original was heavily faded, but I had a photo of what it should look like. This was completely hand-drawn as a vector file so I have clean crisp lines.
It’s small, only 1-3/4” wide x 1-3/16” tall with 1/8” rivet holes
Original
Found photo
Reproduction
It’s small, only 1-3/4” wide x 1-3/16” tall with 1/8” rivet holes
Original
Found photo
Reproduction
larry4406
Well-known member
Very nice.Embossed anodized nameplate for a Craftsman 103.24280 Bandsaw made for GJ member Magillg This is a slight variation of others I made so I had to redo the layout to match. One distinction is a smaller AND.
Before
After
The font on the embossing is clearly different. I would imagine that gets costly to reproduce accurately assuming typesets are involved.
I use an old Addressograph Graphotype machine. Each die is premade, so I have no flexibility on size or shape. I’m lucky to have found one that not only had almost the perfect character height, but is a deboss model and not an emboss model. Most of these units have the stamping press in to the plate rather than be raised.
There are digital means of embossing any size or character shape using a dot peen machine, but those are prohibitively expensive.
Magillg
Member
Looks great!
How cool! That's a very neat machine! I wonder if you could 3D print dies with different fonts....I use an old Addressograph Graphotype machine. Each die is premade, so I have no flexibility on size or shape. I’m lucky to have found one that not only had almost the perfect character height, but is a deboss model and not an emboss model. Most of these units have the stamping press in to the plate rather than be raised.
There are digital means of embossing any size or character shape using a dot peen machine, but those are prohibitively expensive.
lafester
Well-known member
That is pretty sweetI use an old Addressograph Graphotype machine. Each die is premade, so I have no flexibility on size or shape. I’m lucky to have found one that not only had almost the perfect character height, but is a deboss model and not an emboss model. Most of these units have the stamping press in to the plate rather than be raised.
There are digital means of embossing any size or character shape using a dot peen machine, but those are prohibitively expensive.
Re-created a 1938 Delta 1426 Sander label for GJ member Snip’s. The original label was missing, and all we could find were low resolution photos taken at an angle. I saw similar sander for sale on eBay, and the seller was willing to take a straight on photo and provide some critical measurements which allowed me to create a perfect vector version.
Before
After
Before
After
I made a set of vintage Estwing hammer labels. These are 7/8” x 2-3/4” and printed on clear adhesive vinyl with a scuff resistant lamination.
It’s hard to see the details in the final print so I’ve also included an image of the vector version. (I’m behind in posting – these were made back in April).
The originals were carefully peeled off the hammer, then scanned to a PDF file by Office Depot. I used the scan as a template to redraw a perfect vector version.
Original on hammer
Original flat scan:
Cleaned up vector image:
Final labels:
It’s hard to see the details in the final print so I’ve also included an image of the vector version. (I’m behind in posting – these were made back in April).
The originals were carefully peeled off the hammer, then scanned to a PDF file by Office Depot. I used the scan as a template to redraw a perfect vector version.
Original on hammer
Original flat scan:
Cleaned up vector image:
Final labels:
Western auto supply company label reproduction from a vintage toolbox made for garage journal member Satinblack. The old label could not be peeled off without destroying it, so this was made with a photograph and an overall dimension. (1-15/32”)
Toolbox:
Closeup of label:
New label:
Toolbox:
Closeup of label:
New label:
Wow! Thank you. I’ve been working on this a long time. Sometimes it’s discouraging when I don’t get much feedback. I’ve been a lurker on other threads and know folks have been quietly reading my contributions.
What is most satisfying is when I get a PM from a new member that discovered GJ because of my posts then stick around and contribute.
I used to post in other threads too - my first post here is about an industrial air compressor rebuild. I made a ton of posts in the garage sale threads over the years and other restorations but this is the one that has kept going.
First post back in 2013! (Sorry but photos seem to have been lost by photobucket)
Saylor Beal Rebuild
larry4406
Well-known member
I too enjoy this thread greatly!
I would like to see some of the details behind the curtain on how you manage to pull this off.
Is this an offshoot from a day job or a hobby that has gone off the rails a bit? Regardless, great work Matt and keep it up.
Patrickm82
Well-known member
Love your work @mattblast i have a few of your pieces on some of my stuff! Keep it up
02Xterra
Well-known member
I too enjoy seeing you recreating all of these cool labels @mattblast! I recently found this thread and like to see so much variety. Your attention to detail is amazing!
I spent over a decade developing professional grade signmaking software to simplify the process of creating perfect vector layouts. So I have experience in both the software side and the signmaking side. For years I just made labels for myself and figured I should share some of my work.
Restoration is a hobby, and I've purchased a lot of specialized equipment to make these. Fortunately I'm handy and patient so was able to get equipment for a bargain in non working order, then fixed them up to factory specs.
Hi Matt,
I'm an ER Doc that has recently had lots of free time on my hands and have been restoring a BUNCH of old hand tools from my dad and my father in law, and has been a new fun hobby to utilize some of my free time and keep me busy and also using my hands, which I really haven't done a lot of over the last 20 years working a ton in the ER. Currently I'm in the middle of restoring a 1956 Reed 203 R Bench Vise!
ANYWAY, I just found your thread on here recently and am getting ready to restore my dad's old 1976(?) Craftsman 1/3 HP Bench Grinder (Model # 397.19391). I was wondering what the process is to get a decal made by you? (Happy to pay btw). This thread is quite long, and tbh I didn't read the whole thing to try and find the answer.... Your work looks AMAZING and I'm sure so many on here appreciate your hard work making the last details of their restoration really shine! I THANK YOU in advance for your help/time/expertise!!!!
(PS. in the pic attached, my dad scribbled out (with a black sharpie) the "on & off" at the bottom of the decal because years ago he had to replace the original switch for one that goes up and down instead of right to left.)
Michael
Attachments
I just wrapped up some labels for the blade guard from a Dewalt radial arm saw for GJ member SMOKEYBEAR.
It took a little experimentation to determine the size needed. I made one the original burgundy color on silver, and one as black on silver. These are both on aluminum which was cut and filed to shape, then double sided adhesive was applied to the back for final application.
You can follow his progress here
Original (missing the label!)
New labels
It took a little experimentation to determine the size needed. I made one the original burgundy color on silver, and one as black on silver. These are both on aluminum which was cut and filed to shape, then double sided adhesive was applied to the back for final application.
You can follow his progress here
Original (missing the label!)
New labels
Paint masks to restore good emblems off a 1970s Mopar. “340 Four Barrel” and “440 Six Pack”. These were made for GJ member Floyd.
This had to be very precise to prevent any overspray and took several dozen attempts to tune each character. I don’t usually work with dimensional pieces, and had to pull out the caliper to get the size and spacing of each character perfect.
“Six pack” mask is laser cut card stock (the center of the P & A were also cut, but not shown in the photo), and “four barrel” is cut on a vinyl cutter using paint mask with removable adhesive.
Originals:
Adhesive mask:
Paper mask:
This had to be very precise to prevent any overspray and took several dozen attempts to tune each character. I don’t usually work with dimensional pieces, and had to pull out the caliper to get the size and spacing of each character perfect.
“Six pack” mask is laser cut card stock (the center of the P & A were also cut, but not shown in the photo), and “four barrel” is cut on a vinyl cutter using paint mask with removable adhesive.
Originals:
Adhesive mask:
Paper mask:
Matt was awesome to work with on my emblem paint mask project. Really great results!
Attachments
I made the label for ERDoc74. Even kept the misaligned serial number to match original!
Looks Great!!! Thank you so much and I'll post pics with Resto is complete!
Here's some pics of my completed Craftsman grinder restoration! (A first of 2 concurrent vintage tool restorations I've been working on... The other is a Reed 103 R Vise.)
Thanks again Matt for the awesome label! It really made a huge difference in the final outcome!
Thanks again Matt for the awesome label! It really made a huge difference in the final outcome!
Attachments
Patrickm82
Well-known member
Thanks Patrick!
Shiftless
Well-known member
Hey Mattblast,
I have admired your work for years. All of your emblems are absolutely first class.
Have you made any craftsman badges like this one? I am working on restoring a 5196 vise that came with a ruined badge.
edit: This is not my project vise… I found this pic on GJ to show an example of the part I am looking for.
I have admired your work for years. All of your emblems are absolutely first class.
Have you made any craftsman badges like this one? I am working on restoring a 5196 vise that came with a ruined badge.
edit: This is not my project vise… I found this pic on GJ to show an example of the part I am looking for.
Attachments
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Just_Steve
Well-known member
Just read this whole thread........Awsome.
I've made this before as both a sticker and as a sticker attached to a piece of aluminum then shaped to match the original. I've tried direct metal printing but found that it doesn't have the durability.
Wow, thanks for checkout out all my labels. There are still many I haven't had a chance to post about.Just read this whole thread........Awsome.
Vintage label for the restoration of a 1985 Goodall G48 Comercial mower. The original tag was missing but I had an image from the manual which helped, plus the dimensions and spacing for the rivets.
This was laser engraved on gloss black lacquered aluminum then manually engraved on a New Hermes pantograph engraver.
Before:
After:
This was laser engraved on gloss black lacquered aluminum then manually engraved on a New Hermes pantograph engraver.
Before:
After:
Reproduction labels for a 1945 Delta DP600 17" drill press. The old label was in very rough shape, but by getting measurements and finding similar labels online, I was able to make a perfect reproduction.
These labels are printed on a gold at his vinyl, then laminated for added durability.
Before:
After:
These labels are printed on a gold at his vinyl, then laminated for added durability.
Before:
After:
Labels for a Hitachi B600-A bandsaw restoration project.
If you look closely, you’ll see that the labels have typos and uneven letter spacing. This is intentional so that it matches the originals. (“crearance” “atta” “hight” etc)
These were printed on a silver gray adhesive vinyl, and then laminated with a high gloss film.
They’re kind of ugly, but took a long time to replicate the unusual letter spacing.
Before:
After:
If you look closely, you’ll see that the labels have typos and uneven letter spacing. This is intentional so that it matches the originals. (“crearance” “atta” “hight” etc)
These were printed on a silver gray adhesive vinyl, and then laminated with a high gloss film.
They’re kind of ugly, but took a long time to replicate the unusual letter spacing.
Before:
After:
Patrickm82
Well-known member
Hey @mattblast do you do stencils? I have an old craftsman 1/4 socket box that I’m redoing and wanted to try painting one on
Awesome work! Thanks for posting it.A beat up old sticker on a newly restored grinder makes it look bad. Many restorations require that the label be removed (and destroyed in the process) to repaint. When I restore a grinder I go all out - sandblast, paint, new bearings, replace cord, replace rubber feet, etc. I want my old grinders to have no problem lasting another 20 (or 40) years of heavy use before they look worn out.
Besides the old label my restorations look new.
Sometimes I need to remove the old label to sand and paint and sometimes the old label is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Here is a recent Baldor 3/4 HP from 1978 that I picked up for $200 a few months ago and is undergoing a restoration.
Solid grinder but it was heavily used and ready for a full restoration. This requires that I remove all the old stickers and sand blast it.
Here it is partially restored. Only new parts are the bolts to attach to the stand, the bolts to attach the polycarbonate sheets and the new labels. I still need to attach nameplate and switch cover which I ordered new from Baldor.
Baldor also sells the adhesive labels but they are overpriced in my opinion so I made them myself. And besides, Baldor won't sell the UL label.
These labels were drawn on the computer using the old label as a template. I scanned the old label in on the office copy machine then used vector based drawing tools to make a perfect replica. These labels are within 0.01" of original.
I print them on silver or white high performance adhesive vinyl using solvent inks then machine cut them to size (the cutter automatically rounds the corners). The hard part is creating the electronic version of the label. It can take an hour or two for complex ones. The printing and cutting take just a few minutes.
It's actually no more effort to print out 8 then I have a few extras in case I mess up.
These are unlaminated so they are damaged with alcohol based solvents but are water and light resistant. For more durable labels I add a high performance clear laminate prior to machine cutting. That does complicate the cutting process as the machine needs to re-orient the print origin but then the labels are impervious to chemicals.
Here's one I did for a craftsman grinder last year (this is the spare one that didn't end up getting used). This one took about 90 mins to draw.
And some for another machine I'm restoring
I use professional sign making software to do the layout (FlexiSIGN) which allows for fast and accurate drawing in vector format and can import and export EPS and PDF files.
All these labels (except the yellow/black ones) are extras that I don't need anymore. If you can use a any let me know and PM me your address and I'll send them.
I may regret saying this but I will also make any adhesive label for a grinder for free (at least until I get overwhelmed). If you need one post up a photo and I'll let you know of that is one I can make.
