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Craftsman Drill Press

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FrankLee

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DP#151 - Part 8

I refurbished the chuck this morning. This is a Ridgid Supreme chuck, model 6T33C. It was a little sluggish opening and closing, so it definitely needed dismantling.

This chuck is very similar to a Jacobs 633C, but the procedure to dismantle is very different. It took several attempts at rigging the puller to remove the sleeve, but it finally surrendered. All parts were cleaned in a sonic cleaner and most were lightly wire wheeled. A few drops of Super Lube oil during assembly made this chuck operate better than new!

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IMG_0856.JPG IMG_0881.JPG IMG_0887.JPG
IMG_0891.JPG IMG_0893.JPG IMG_0899.JPG
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FrankLee

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DP#151 - Part 9

The cover mount was also changed. The mount on the right is an earlier version. It has the rest stops built in and a kick-stand to hold the cover when lifted. The mount on the left is from this machine. It has an additional two mounting holes and larger 1/4" pivot rod holes.
IMG_0059.JPG

I don't know why they eliminated the kick-stand on the cover mount.
1768740842848.png 1768740987666.png 1768740904606.png

Without it, the cover would contact and crease the top of the front panel when lifted. The photo below was from my DP#93.
1768740450595.png
This morning, I also started a modification to the cover mounting plate.

Earlier versions of the cover plate had a built-in kick stand for the cover when lifted. For some reason, Emerson eliminated it in later models. I'm adding it back.

I had this flat-surface bracket and bent it similar to the oe part using my vise brake. I had to tweak the bend a bit, but it'll work great.
I bought that small vise brake many years ago at an estate sale and never used it until today, but I digress.

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FrankLee

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DP#151 - Part 9.1

The guard plate is complete and works perfectly. The spindle pulley and cover are installed.

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I installed shrink tubing on the cover rest stops and the new kick stand... only because I had some that fit.
IMG_0940.JPG IMG_0942.JPG
 

paulm12

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DP#151 - Part 8

I refurbished the chuck this morning. This is a Rigid Supreme chuck, model 6T33C. It was a little sluggish opening and closing, so it definitely needed dismantling.

This chuck is very similar to a Jacobs 633C, but the procedure to dismantle is very different. It took several attempts at rigging the puller to remove the sleeve, but it finally surrendered. All parts were cleaned in a sonic cleaner and most were lightly wire wheeled. A few drops of Super Lube oil during assembly made this chuck operate better than new!

IMG_0829.JPG IMG_0830.JPG IMG_0840.JPG
IMG_0856.JPG IMG_0881.JPG IMG_0887.JPG
IMG_0891.JPG IMG_0893.JPG IMG_0899.JPG

you have probably mentioned this before, but how do you measure runout specific to the chuck?

thanks
 
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FrankLee

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you have probably mentioned this before, but how do you measure runout specific to the chuck?
I always try to check run out on the spindle taper with chuck removed, before and after new bearings. Honestly, I don't see much difference between old and new bearings.

I sometimes check with a polished, machined rod in the chuck tightened with all three key positions, after refurbishing the chuck.

I often see guys check run out on the nose/body of the chuck. IMO, that's not the best location to check.
 
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mattaw

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I always try to check run out on the spindle taper with chuck removed, before and after new bearings. Honestly, I don't see much difference between old and new bearings.

I sometimes check with a polished, machined rod in the chuck tightened with all three key positions, after refurbishing the chuck.
This is a great guide if you are new to checking runout. To expand on a couple of points:

1. A drill held in the chuck and tightened by turning the key in all three positions makes a decent polished rod substitute. (The tighten all three positions vs. just one can matter significantly, if you have a sensitive indicator you will be able to measure the difference.)

2. Always measure as close to the chuck jaws as you can else your measurement becomes contaminated by how straight your test rod / bar is

3. If it's not turning true, you have to remove the chuck and test the spindle to figure out if the problem is the chuck or the spindle / bearings - a perfect chuck on a wobbly spindle will still wobble, and a perfect spindle in terrible bearings will still wobble.

3.5 if the spindle checks true, clean the spindle nose and chuck socket thoroughly with acetone / brake cleaner / alcohol and dry. Then feel with your fingers for any remaining dirt or grit. If clean and smooth try reassembling it dry and retest - that might fix it!

4. If both the spindle bearings and chuck wobble you can pull them apart, rotate them and put them back together. Measure and if you are lucky the wobbles can cancel. Several different rotations are often needed to find the best rotation ( no gaurantees), but it can sometimes temporarily fix it so you can carry on while waiting for new parts or time to fix it properly.

I often see guys check run out on the nose/body of the chuck. IMO, that's not the best location to check.
Don't bother measuring the body or jaws as Frank says, it tells you nothing useful about how straight it will drill!
 
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FrankLee

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This is a great guide if you are new to checking runout. To expand on a couple of points:

1. A drill held in the chuck and tightened by turning the key in all three positions makes a decent polished rod substitute. (The tighten all three positions vs. just one can matter significantly, if you have a sensitive indicator you will be able to measure the difference.)

2. Always measure as close to the chuck jaws as you can else your measurement becomes contaminated by how straight your test rod / bar is

3. If it's not turning true, you have to remove the chuck and test the spindle to figure out if the problem is the chuck or the spindle / bearings - a perfect chuck on a wobbly spindle will still wobble, and a perfect spindle in terrible bearings will still wobble.

3.5 if the spindle checks true, clean the spindle nose and chuck socket thoroughly with acetone / brake cleaner / alcohol and dry. Then feel with your fingers for any remaining dirt or grit. If clean and smooth try reassembling it dry and retest - that might fix it!

4. If both the spindle bearings and chuck wobble you can pull them apart, rotate them and put them back together. Measure and if you are lucky the wobbles can cancel. Several different rotations are often needed to find the best rotation ( no gaurantees), but it can sometimes temporarily fix it so you can carry on while waiting for new parts or time to fix it properly.


Don't bother measuring the body or jaws as Frank says, it tells you nothing useful about how straight it will drill!
Very good info, Matt. Thanks for posting!


One more thing about chuck installation... Below is an excerpt from the owners manual from 113.24501, a 150. All(?) manuals for drill presses with a Safe-Lock collar chuck have these instructions. I suspect this is not done often.

1769683989593.png

Right or wrong, this is what I do.
After I clean the taper and socket with acetone, I blow out the chuck socket with compressed air, use a very thin sewing machine oil and apply a very light film on the tapers.
From Part 8 above:
IMG_0891.JPG IMG_0893.JPG
 
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mattaw

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One more thing about chuck installation... Below is an excerpt from the owners manual from 113.24501, a 150. All(?) manuals for drill presses with a Safe-Lock collar chuck have these instructions. I suspect this is not done often.

1769683989593.png

Right or wrong, this is what I do.
After I clean the taper and socket with acetone, I blow out the chuck socket with compressed air, use a very thin sewing machine oil and apply a very light film on the tapers.
From Part 8 above:
IMG_0891.JPG IMG_0893.JPG
I'm torn, as I was taught to keep tapers dry, and a (much later) Jacob's chuck manual and contemporary Atlas Drill Press manual say dry:
Screenshot_2026-01-29-10-11-16-47_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpgScreenshot_2026-01-29-10-14-13-34_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpg

But Craftsman (I guess Emerson, King Seely really?) say light oil. A later Craftsman manual (1969 113.24630) states a film of oil too:
Screenshot_2026-01-29-10-22-02-67_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpg

Obviously I prefer the method I was taught (grin). I suspect that either is OK, to be honest, but for this drill press I'll use oil until I'm convinced it's wrong.

I should check the machinist's handbook in case it explains why to oil or keep dry - anyone know?

Edit: An obvious difference is the threaded safety collar on the Craftsman. So is the dry joint to increase the taper hold of plain tapers so the chuck stays on, but the craftsman (men?!) DPs can boost the chuck & spindle lifetime via corrosion proofing w. oil and control the problem of the chuck falling off with the threaded collar?

M
 
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FrankLee

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Edit: An obvious difference is the threaded safety collar on the Craftsman. So is the dry joint to increase the taper hold of plain tapers so the chuck stays on, but the craftsman (men?!) DPs can boost the chuck & spindle lifetime via corrosion proofing w. oil and control the problem of the chuck falling off with the threaded collar?
I'm not sure whether the oil is intended to prevent corrosion. but I do believe it is related to the safety collar.

The Safe-Lock chuck was introduced in 1951. There are no references in earlier manuals to applying oil to the tapers.
 

Outlawmws

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In my experience with taper fits, its essentially a "vacuum lock" - at least that was what was explained to me "back in the day".

A dry fit is easier to break loose later. The "wet fit" makes it much more difficult to break that vacuum.

Ever tried to pull two finely machined tool blocks apart 90 degrees from the junction? It's nearly impossible, and its all about that vacuum. Sliding them apart is usually the only way.

A taper is no different.

Many think its friction alone on a taper. Its not...
 

mattaw

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Ever tried to pull two finely machined tool blocks apart 90 degrees from the junction? It's nearly impossible, and its all about that vacuum. Sliding them apart is usually the only way.

A taper is no different.

Many think its friction alone on a taper. Its not...
Yeah! I left some glass sheet on my surface plate for a few days, and could only slide it off slowly, not lift it. I believe it had simply settled down and most of the air escaped from underneath it.

For the ultimate example of machined blocks, take steel Gage blocks wrung together - pressed flat to flat and then slid over each other in a circular motion. Gage blocks are optically flat, and if left wrung together too long cannot be separated without damaging the steel blocks!

Note the mechanism that holds them together is far stronger than vacuum and not fully understood. It's believed to be intermolecular forces like those that keep solid steel solid, the idea is the blocks are so flat they are actually just becoming one piece of metal over time. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_contact_bonding
 
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FrankLee

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DP#151 Part 11

I cleaned and installed the final pieces. I'm calling this one complete.

I'm thinking this may be my own refurb swan song (although I thought that at DP#100, LoL!). I've got too much other **** going on; starting with cataract surgery on Feb 3rd.

I'm definitely not leaving and I'm still looking forward to helping anyone who asks.

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Prospecter

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DP#151 Part 11
After 151 DPs, which models do you like best? I am partial to my 80. Originally purchased new by a carpenter. I bought it from the son, and am the second owner. So great Karma. It also has the least run out of my 3 DPs.
 

Tom Graham

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”Swan song”!? Say it isn’t so! After your own refurb, you‘ll be good for another 50-75! Seriously, best of luck with your imminent cataract surgery.
 
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FrankLee

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After 151 DPs, which models do you like best? I am partial to my 80. Originally purchased new by a carpenter. I bought it from the son, and am the second owner. So great Karma. It also has the least run out of my 3 DPs.
I like the 80 and 100 style, but the 150 features. My keeper machine can be more accurately described as a Craftsman 125.

”Swan song”!? Say it isn’t so! After your own refurb, you‘ll be good for another 50-75!
I hope to help at least that many guys overhaul theirs. I do have a handful of private conversations going at the moment.

Seriously, best of luck with your imminent cataract surgery.
Thank you.

Out of 151 (really 153) drill presses, 106 have been refurbs, 39 have been part-outs, 9 were other (flips, gifts)
17 were Atlas-made DPs and there were a handful of other manufacturers.

Here is a summary of the KIng-Seeley and Emerson Craftsman drill presses.
1769874574681.png

Here's a summary of all machines by year.
1769874903343.png
 
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mattaw

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(... reads through @FrankLee 's post, thats interesting, wow that looks beautiful, got to love the window on that model ... ) SWANSONG!?!?!

Say it ain't so, although I totally get that whole "too many other things to do" as I have two teenagers.

All the best on the cataract surgery, and I have really appreciated all that you have written, and all the the help you have given!

Glad to hear you will be sticking around for a while too.

Best, Matthew
 
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mattaw

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Column decanted successfully.

Improved technique - after decanting immediately scrub with Scotch brite + water to get the black gunk off before it dries, immediately wipe dry ish, then blow hot air down it for 20 mins until it was painfully hot along it's length. No flash rust.

I think the column is almost factory on some sections, although heavily pitted where it was set into the base:

IMG20260131172043.jpg

Next steps are to build a box from 2x12, lined with plastic the exact size for the base. It will also do the table and head casting. I degreased them all too early and they have surface flash rust all over them, sadly.

Advice to anyone else: maybe do one large casting at a time, degreaser, rust remover, dry, until you get the hang of it. The pros like @11b30b4 & @FrankLee have it down with the proper containers etc. to tackle a whole press at once!

Matt
 
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FrankLee

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PSA: The Dangers of the Inexperienced and Importance of Column Collars

I posted the contents of the quote below a while back. It demonstrates how quickly bad things can happen.


I recently received a private message from a new GJ member seeking a replacement for a tilt table support. I didn't have one, but asked what happened. His response:


Below are a couple of his photos used with his permission. That is definitely a heart-breaker.
0.jpg 0-1.jpg

In all cases above, a column collar could have prevented the damage.

Atlas made a column collar that had lock sleeve cylinders that were identical to the table lock.
1751897763142.png

Early Craftsman column collars were cast iron with a ball-end lock screw.
1751896260431.png

The two above were accessories purchased separately.

Later Emerson Craftsman drill presses came with two pressed steel collars; one for the head frame and one for the table.
IMG_1614c.JPG

There are other versions including home-made using a muffler clamp, u-bolt or similar.
IMG_1616.JPG

IIRC, Jeff (@11b30b4) used this pipe clamp from Zoro:
[/URL]

There are several very nice options on Amazon with rubber cushioning.
[/URL]


The point is that something should be in place to prevent the head or table from free-falling.

I recently discovered these double-split shaft collars with 2-3/4" bores. They fit perfectly, work great and look decent on our classic Craftsman drill press columns. They are not terribly expensive either. They're also easy to r&r without dismantling your machine.

IMG_0229.JPG IMG_0230.JPG IMG_0233.JPG
IMG_0001.JPG IMG_0002.JPG IMG_0003.JPG
 
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FrankLee

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Emerson Electric Motors - Part 1

I really like the older cast iron Packard Electric motors for several reasons; the styling features, the heft, the integrated ON/OFF switch, the open bearings and the durability. They just look cool!
The downsides to the Packard motors include the unique capacitor (when equipped), the capacitor location in the base, the brittle wiring and the captive bearing on the switch-side frame. I can recall how intimidating these motors seemed when I was a novice.


I also like the Emerson Electric motors for different reasons. They are somewhat lighter weight, external capacitor (when equipped), fewer parts, spade electrical connectors make it very easy to reverse and, imo, they are so much easier to refurbish than the Packard motors.

Like the Packard motors, Emerson motors came in many different configurations, 1/4 to 1 hp, 1725 vs 3450 rpm, capacitor start vs split phase, single shaft vs dual shaft, sleeve bearing vs ball bearing.

Emerson motors also have some unique features; dual shafts in different sizes; 1/2" with flat and 5/8" with keyway,
rigid mount vs cradle mount vs direct-drive mount, the cord is attached under the terminal cover.

Rigid Mount
The base is welded to the stator cover.
full


Cradle Mount
This one has rubber resilient mounting rings. Some cradle models do not have the rubber rings.
full
full


Direct Drive Mount
Many Emerson motors have direct drive mounts. Those extended thru-bolts are used on direct drive fans. I've never seen any any direct drive applications.
full



Terminal Bar Access
A nice feature on the Emerson motors is the access to the terminal bar. Unlike Packard motors, the electrical cord is directly attached to the terminal bar through ports on the switch-end frame. There are four cord ports to the terminal bar; two on the top and two on the bottom, one on either side of the cover screws. The ports are different sizes on each end.
full

There is also a knock-out on the side for standard electrical clamp fittings. When I come across them, I usually eliminate that clamp and insert a snap-in cap.
full


Rubber Resilient Mounting Rings
Many times, the resilient rings can be removed other times they are glued in or captive behind the steel cap ring around the shaft.
full
full
full

Sometimes the rubber resilient rings can go fubar. They are available, but can be difficult to find.

On a vertical mount, the rubber rings can sometimes sag. I usually swap the top and bottom rings to reverse the sag.
(Also notice that this motor looks over oiled.)
full

This ring was slipping out of its steel ring. I believe this was caused by the cradle base splaying open. IIRC, I clamped that end of the base in a vise and bent the bottom down a bit.
full


Cords
These motors often come equipped with a flat cord. These are generally a pita as they don't fit well through the cord access ports. They are also often wrapped/wound as they came from the factory and are rather unsightly.

full
full


When installing a cord, take into account the machine on which the motor will be mounted. On a drill press for example, the cord exiting the terminal from the bottom would route better than if exiting on the top. On other bench machines, the cord exiting from the top may be better.

full
full
full



This was an interesting anomaly with a cradle base.
So, I'm nearly finished with the refurb of dp#84. This morning, I started cleaning up the motor. It is a Craftsman 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm motor with sleeve bearings, model 113.12140, manufactured in late '64.
IMG_0056.JPG IMG_0065.JPG


It's nothing unusual until I noticed that ends of the cradle mount are different heights. The difference between the height at the ends of the shaft is ~5/8". I've never seen this before. With the pivoting motor mount, it will be easy to compensate for the angled shaft. Is this a mistake? Or does anyone know the purpose of a cradle like this?

IMG_0058.JPG
IMG_0063.JPG IMG_0057.JPG IMG_0064.JPG
 
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FrankLee

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Emerson Electric Motors - Part 2

I made a youtube slide-show with the 200+ photos and a handful of short videos I took during the refurb of the Emerson Craftsman motor, model 113.12130, from DP#151. The "video" is actually quite boring if you're not refurbishing an Emerson ball bearing motor, and maybe even if you are.

Anyway, there are a couple minor modifications I usually make to these Emerson motors.
  • I flip the thru-bolts around so the threaded direct-drive mount extensions are pointing down.
  • I remove the drive screws for the model number badge and drill and tap for 6-32 button head screws.
Enjoy! (if possible)


Here's another slide-show video of an Emerson Craftsman motor, model 113.19665.

This motor is split-phase, 1/3 hp, 1725 rpm. It has sleeve bearings, a cradle mount and a single 1/2" shaft. This is very typical of other Emerson sleeve bearing motors, but very different than the motor above.

This motor came on a Craftsman band saw model 113.24261 and was very filthy. It was repainted and a new power cord and some new hardware were installed.


Removing the drive screws for the motor badge...
Anyway, there are a couple minor modifications I usually make to these Emerson motors.
  • I flip the thru-bolts around so the threaded direct-drive mount extensions are pointing down.
  • I remove the drive screws for the model number badge and drill and tap for 6-32 button head screws.
Sometimes the heads of the drive screws will snap off after cutting the slot; I've had a handful of those. It's not a problem to under-cut the post with a Dremel from inside of the end frame to expose the drive screw hole. Then, the remnant of the drive screw can be punched out.

There is no thermal switch in the example below, but you can see that post is shared between the badge drive screw and the thermal switch mounting screws. They are offset enough so undercutting the post has no ill effect on mounting the thermal switch.
1778516436896.png
T
 
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FrankLee

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I am saving the link for the column collars. Me like them....
They are very nice. One thing to note, though, is that the aux table mount flange for the Emerson gen 2,3,4 tables does not fit over these collars.

IMG_0012.JPG



Edit 2/11:
Out of curiosity, I soaked one of the collars in citric acid to remove the black finish. The raw steel looks pretty good too! I flipped over one half to show both sides in one photo.
IMG_0017.JPG IMG_0019.JPG
 
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BSWS

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Emerson Electric Motors - Part 1

I really like the older cast iron Packard Electric motors for several reasons; the styling features, the heft, the integrated ON/OFF switch, the open bearings and the durability. They just look cool!
.....I can recall how intimidating these motors seemed when I was a novice.
I agree with you 100%. After seeing yours I really wanted one and finally found it. A few months back you helped guide me with my self-inflicted wiring issues. I took "before" pictures but those old wires were so dirty I didn't see the colors well enough. I was more than a little intimidated and close to giving up. I'm still a novice after only 1 motor but it sure is purring nicely now. And looking cool.
 

mattaw

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Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated! I have certainly been very busy at work - we had a visit by AMD CEO Lisa Su so were all on our best behavior. Any road, I have moved onto de-rusting the main castings which flash-rusted after de-greasing. I was able to extract the pole back in this post without flash rust so I am hoping to achieve the same thing by adding a little extra washing soda on top of the normal citric acid + sodium bicarbonate to make it more alkali.

Below is my best (worst?) idea. I cannot find any totes the right size, the only one I have is far too large, and will cost far too much to fill w. anti-rust. Scavenged lumber walls, no base, and 4-6 layers of plastic dust sheet to hold in the liquid. I am also running a very cheap aquarium bubbler which I actually purchased for nickel plating as I have noticed some oddities when the anti-rust sits still.

IMG20260308194117.jpgIMG20260308195505.jpgIMG20260308212639.jpg

Next steps are to put a harbor freight HVLP gun to work with my tiny compressor, and to finish polishing the remaining metal parts. I also have new bearings on order from Misumi to avoid the fake ones I got from eBay - I honestly believe nearly all the eBay and Amazon bearings are fakes these days, sadly.

(Note, for those who look too closely, I definitely did not only add x1 the width to the sides, not x2, when measuring and marking up, and had to use the cut ones as I ran out. The corners just look like that for artistic reasons. So there. Also cutting these square with my jigsaw was murder - I need a full size table saw or sliding miter saw to do this kind of work on the regular.)
 
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mattaw

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Just a brief post as I'm tired and have a late midterm tomorrow night. Here is the base, fresh out, scrubbed with Scotch-brite and only slightly brown. I'm guessing cast iron is simply too porous to dry quick enough to not rust again. It is still a million times better:

IMG20260310203025.jpgIMG20260310203000.jpg

Head casting is in soak now, and the bearings arrived, so with @FrankLee 's supply drop I'm in good shape once things are painted and polished.

Must not forget to plug the holes where the switch was installed, I've got a nice foot switch to replace it now. I'm going to try @11b30b4 's putty and sandpaper texture technique!
 

mattaw

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Hit it with VERY hot water and then towel dry quickly, then hit it with a Prop torch to minimize flash rust.
I'll try that! This time around I tried using hot water and my hot air gun and I guess it just lacks the oomph to get it done.

It looks like there is little enough rust so I'll be able to spray rustoleum over it after a good scrub with Scotch-Brite.
 
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mattaw

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IMG20260316110729.jpg
Castings done! Torch FTW (thanks @Outlawmws ), all bearing seats / sliding surfaces now rust free, v. light surface rust only on the exposed metal. Now to the motor, and getting setup to do some HVLP spraying. I have got a couple of broken 27gal Husky air compressors on FB for $150 to pick up on Tuesday - should be simple to get them going based on what is wrong with them and that compressors are basically kits anyway (I will do a home hydrostatic test though with a grease gun just in case!). I'll sell the one I don't want. I have an old vice to practice spraying with anyway.
 

saipan59

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Colorado Springs
Recently acquired a 150 (113.24511) with (I think) a slightly unusual motor: Dayton 1/2 HP, 6-pole, 1140 RPM, made in 1965.
In addition to being a 6-pole motor, it is a "2-value capacitor" type (a large-value cap for starting, a much smaller value 5 uF cap for running).
Is it correct to say that this motor was NOT a Craftsman option?
Any comments welcome.

Pete
 

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FrankLee

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Welcome Pete!

Recently acquired a 150 (113.24511) with (I think) a slightly unusual motor: Dayton 1/2 HP, 6-pole, 1140 RPM, made in 1965.
In addition to being a 6-pole motor, it is a "2-value capacitor" type (a large-value cap for starting, a much smaller value 5 uF cap for running).
Please post a close-up photo of the motor badge.

Is it correct to say that this motor was NOT a Craftsman option?
You are correct. Dayton was not a Sears option for any of their machines. IIRC, Dayton was a Grainger house brand.

Craftsman drill presses of that era did not necessarily come equipped with motors. Craftsman, Companion or Dunlap motors (mainly manufactured by Packard Electric or Emerson Electric) were often bought separately with Craftsman drill presses, but there are many examples where original buyers had other brands of motors that were appropriate for a dp.

Back in the day, there were many motor manufacturers. I've had Craftsman machines with at least a dozen different brands. GE and Westinghouse were probably the most common of the non-Sears options.


Your 150 looks to be in decent condition. What are your plans going forward?


What is your general location?
 
Last edited:

saipan59

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Apr 5, 2026
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Colorado Springs
Hi, thanks for the warm welcome!
I'm in Colorado Springs.
Attached is the motor ID plate. I'm generally more familiar with motors, than with the machines that use them. I dated this motor based on the date code on the two capacitors (1965) - I don't know if a Dayton ID plate includes a date code or not. I suppose the "67" in the model no. could be a date, but I don't know. I have date-code decoders for G.E., Westinghouse, and Marathon.

This is my #2 DP. My first is a Craftsman 15" that I bought new in the early 1980's (Taiwan-made). It continues to serve very well. In recent years I do metalworking in the garage, and woodworking in the shed, so one of the DP's will be moved to the shed.

On this new 150, you can see that the 4-step motor pulley is missing, and it has just a single 2" pulley. I'm in the process of building a jack shaft that passes under the motor (so the motor will be inverted), then there is a 3-step pulley on the output of the jack shaft. I don't happen to have an appropriate 4-step pulley at the moment, but my feeling is that I would never use the highest speed anyway. There will be a roughly 2-to-1 reduction from the motor to the shaft. I'll post a picture when I'm done (probably in the next few days). I'm aware that there were Craftsman accessories for speed reduction/control and such, but I enjoy designing and building things. I'm not doing any irreversible mods to the original machine. Also need to work out a power switch and light setup.
BTW, the 150 came with an apparently home-made foot switch, using a switch that looks just like the hi/lo beam headlight switch on 1960's cars (except that this switch is momentary). Mounted on a sturdy steel box, with an L-shaped 'cover' to prevent the switch being pressed accidentally.

A safety lesson that I "learned the hard way" recently: My buddy and I were unloading the 150 from the back of his truck. As we pivoted it off the tailgate to stand it up, I was holding the column between the head and the table. The head-lock had become loose. As it became more vertical, the head suddenly slid down and smashed my hand against the table... No bones broken (I was lucky); only "a few drops of blood" from a cut on the back of my hand. I'll be getting a collar-clamp to go under the head, to avoid a repeat of that painful experience ;-) .

Pete

Dayton_5K617.JPG
 

zanyad

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Apr 26, 2018
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NE Ohio
A safety lesson that I "learned the hard way" recently: My buddy and I were unloading the 150 from the back of his truck. As we pivoted it off the tailgate to stand it up, I was holding the column between the head and the table. The head-lock had become loose. As it became more vertical, the head suddenly slid down and smashed my hand against the table... No bones broken (I was lucky); only "a few drops of blood" from a cut on the back of my hand. I'll be getting a collar-clamp to go under the head, to avoid a repeat of that painful experience ;-) .
Oof. Glad you came out of that with minimal injury!
 
OP
F

FrankLee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
3,518
Location
seMI, 48317
Hi, thanks for the warm welcome!
I'm in Colorado Springs.
Attached is the motor ID plate. I'm generally more familiar with motors, than with the machines that use them. I dated this motor based on the date code on the two capacitors (1965) - I don't know if a Dayton ID plate includes a date code or not. I suppose the "67" in the model no. could be a date, but I don't know. I have date-code decoders for G.E., Westinghouse, and Marathon.
I agree... M67 is the date code; M=December 1967.

This is my #2 DP. My first is a Craftsman 15" that I bought new in the early 1980's (Taiwan-made). It continues to serve very well. In recent years I do metalworking in the garage, and woodworking in the shed, so one of the DP's will be moved to the shed.

On this new 150, you can see that the 4-step motor pulley is missing, and it has just a single 2" pulley. I'm in the process of building a jack shaft that passes under the motor (so the motor will be inverted), then there is a 3-step pulley on the output of the jack shaft. I don't happen to have an appropriate 4-step pulley at the moment, but my feeling is that I would never use the highest speed anyway. There will be a roughly 2-to-1 reduction from the motor to the shaft. I'll post a picture when I'm done (probably in the next few days). I'm aware that there were Craftsman accessories for speed reduction/control and such, but I enjoy designing and building things. I'm not doing any irreversible mods to the original machine. Also need to work out a power switch and light setup.
There are several custom lamps posted. Here's mine:

BTW, the 150 came with an apparently home-made foot switch, using a switch that looks just like the hi/lo beam headlight switch on 1960's cars (except that this switch is momentary). Mounted on a sturdy steel box, with an L-shaped 'cover' to prevent the switch being pressed accidentally.

A safety lesson that I "learned the hard way" recently: My buddy and I were unloading the 150 from the back of his truck. As we pivoted it off the tailgate to stand it up, I was holding the column between the head and the table. The head-lock had become loose. As it became more vertical, the head suddenly slid down and smashed my hand against the table... No bones broken (I was lucky); only "a few drops of blood" from a cut on the back of my hand. I'll be getting a collar-clamp to go under the head, to avoid a repeat of that painful experience ;-) .
Ouch! That's a painful lesson. It's usually very easy to take those apart to move them.
 
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