Craftsman Drill Press

mattaw · Jan 10, 2026

I deeply appreciate those thoughtful posts and am ashamed to say I did not take care. Both the plumbing collar in one of @11b30b4 's videos and @FrankLee 's comprehensive post.

However, just like every fool I thought I was smart enough, and nearly paid dearly for it. If you are reading this and think you will be fine ... well so did I and I wasn't and as the wise folks stated it happens without warning, and leaves no time to dodge or catch.

I deeply appreciate your no-nonsense teaching, and understanding responses.

I got the head all the way off, and stripped down to the spindle pulleys+bearings. Only one chunk missing inside the rim of the casting, and that is painted Emerson grey - phew!

mattaw · Jan 10, 2026

So, by coincidence, I'm in the market for a couple of column collars that won't look too out of place. Looks like the Craftsman pipe-clamp style - gosh they look bad - are maybe $25 on the bay, while anything 2-3/4" from cast is ~$40. Nothing that looks like an original from this thread:

FrankLee said:

Hopefully they are not as rare as the MSA or Vari Slo speed options.... !

mattaw · Jan 11, 2026

Onto happier things! Firstly the stripping went well. The only hindrance (apart from the incorrectly installed stud, see #5718 above) was a snapped Rod - Motor Support lock screw.

This was successfully extracted through:

24 hrs of deep-creep application
Center punching and drilling a hole into the screw approx 1/3" (Note, the Grabit-Pro has a drill on the other end, but that is for use on stripped screw heads, not tunneling into snapped screw bodies).
Torch heat circling the screw and casting for 20s
Sprayed focussed CRC Freeze-Off for 20s in the drill hole in the screw, with a towel to absorb the tons of oil that goes everywhere!
Wait 2 minutes for Freeze-Off, heat, and oil to work
A Grabit-Pro at low speed, hold the drill very tight, that initial start is very, very, important. (Note the Grabit-Pro is very different from a Grabit - the Pro is hardened M2 steel made in the USA, vs. the imported Grabit which I consider pretty much useless.)

Matt

mattaw · Jan 11, 2026

Stripping results, still need to separate the base from the column and tap out the upper spindle pulley & bearings (after releasing it's lock screws...). Looking pretty good, the worst seems to be the motor mount and motor support rods. Lots of cleaning to do!

Oh, and anyone who has seen one of @11b30b4 's amazing videos will recognize the pipe gluing in the corner...

(Full very rusty Craftsman Emerson 150 playlist from Jeff's shop here, amazing work: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfmzf8SKnxXn7KOyEvtww8mIEJ6ekQ3Cu&si=-NuhI4t0u5F2VF9H.)

mattaw · Jan 11, 2026

After much scraping the upper spindle lock screws were easy to remove, surprisingly. I was able pull out the upper spindle by hand, so I hope the bearing seats are OK. Also I'm going to hazard a guess, but the 150 did not ship with Naichi bearings, Japan, correct? Because that is what is on the upper spindle! Likely someone from Garage Journal has already worked on this!

FrankLee · Jan 11, 2026

mattaw said:
After much scraping the upper spindle lock screws were easy to remove, surprisingly. I was able pull out the upper spindle by hand, so I hope the bearing seats are OK.

How do the spindle bearings feel? If still somewhat smooth, the cast iron seats are likely fine. If the bearings are stiff, I would suspect the inner races would spin and the seats for the outer races are still fine.

mattaw said:
Also I'm going to hazard a guess, but the 150 did not ship with Naichi bearings, Japan, correct? Because that is what is on the upper spindle! Likely someone from Garage Journal has already worked on this!

I believe those Nachi bearings are original. I just checked some of my old bearings and there were several sets of Nachi for both the spindle pulley and quill/spindle.

mattaw · Jan 11, 2026

FrankLee said:
How do the spindle bearings feel? If still somewhat smooth, the cast iron seats are likely fine. If the bearings are stiff, I would suspect the inner races would spin and the seats for the outer races are still fine.

Good news, they both turn freely, and seem in great condition, so I'm hopeful it's all fine.

FrankLee said:
I believe those Nachi bearings are original. I just checked some of my old bearings and there were several sets of Nachi for both the spindle pulley and quill/spindle.

I guess at one time Japanese bearings were the low cost option, like the Chinese ones are today? I never really thought about it before as Naichi are premium options. I was fortunate to find four individually barcoded Koyo bearings for $29, shipped. So many fake bearings, sigh. Arriving tomorrow so hopefully genuine and in good condition.

11b30b4 · Jan 12, 2026

Lots of good information in the past few posts. I never really considered the stud could lock the head to the column but that makes perfect sense. It is a good practice to always block the head when disassembling. I often place a piece of 2x4 between the bottom of the head and the top of the table along the column or use a column collar. I like your motor lock screw removal and may play around with that method. Franklee and I have discussed doing a few videos on how to solve issue that may come up with these drill presses like removing seized columns, heads, bases, and broken screw removal.

FrankLee · Jan 13, 2026

Yesterday was a long day... ~250 mile, 6-1/2 hour round trip to pick up these two machines.

Craftsman wood lathe with a double pedestal. Missing some parts, but the pedestal is complete with very nice original dark Emerson gray paint.

An Emerson Craftsman gen 2 bench top (DP#151). This one is easily in my top 5 of outstanding original-condition machines!
The owners manual, a drill press operation guide and the ORIGINAL sales receipt were included.

11b30b4 · Jan 13, 2026

Very nice catch. Original receipt for a dp in great condition is awesome. The wood lathe pedestal is one of the hardest for me to locate. I have only seen 3 for sale in my area over the years and eventually snagged one. The lathe is ok but I prefer the 100 series wood lathe. The bed is way better than the pipe and looks way better in my opinion. Down here the pipe lathes are always available but the 100's are rare to only a few each year. Let me know if you need me to snag a lathe for cheap to get the parts you are missing.
Also, for the board on the pedestal, I recommend planning and making a nice hardwood oak table for it.

Outlawmws · Jan 13, 2026

FrankLee said:
Emerson Craftsman gen 2 bench top

Is that the one with the 2 pulley 8 speed system using the super thin belt?

FrankLee · Jan 13, 2026

Outlawmws said:
Is that the one with the 2 pulley 8 speed system using the super thin belt?

This was the last with the 1/2" belt.

There are quite a few parts in common with the 100s & 150s.

FrankLee · Jan 13, 2026

11b30b4 said:
Very nice catch. Original receipt for a dp in great condition is awesome.

It's rare, but I love getting provenance with these old machines.

It's interesting that the date code on the drill press is L 68 (November 1968), the date code on the motor is 11 69 (November 1969) and the sales date is 1/27/70.

The item number, 99X24547N3, is not shown in the 1969 catalog. The motor was not listed as a separate item, so I believe the motor came with the drill press.

It also looks like the drill press was bought on sale. The regular price in the catalog is $164.95.

11b30b4 said:
The wood lathe pedestal is one of the hardest for me to locate. I have only seen 3 for sale in my area over the years and eventually snagged one. The lathe is ok but I prefer the 100 series wood lathe. The bed is way better than the pipe and looks way better in my opinion. Down here the pipe lathes are always available but the 100's are rare to only a few each year. Let me know if you need me to snag a lathe for cheap to get the parts you are missing.
Also, for the board on the pedestal, I recommend planning and making a nice hardwood oak table for it.

I really went to get the lathe for the stand. The tool mounts for the lathe pedestal is the same part number as the bench grinder tool mount. So the lathe pedestal makes a very nice double grinder pedestal. I posted these photos many years ago.

Coincidentally, the tubular lathe bed is the same diameter as the Craftsman 80 13-1/2" drill press column. I've done two conversions to the taller column.

This is the stand that the drill press was sitting on. From the seller's pictures, I assumed it was an all-wood stand and wouldn't be a problem loading in the car. I could not have been more wrong.

The top is 24" x 28" cast iron! The base frame is cast iron with a steel pipe in each corner. The previous owner made the wood cabinet to slide over the pipes.

The 5" x 1-3/8" steel casters have a ball-bearing swivel!

I estimate that the top alone weighs 200 pounds. I was very lucky that two burly guys showed up while I was there and offered to carry the top up from the basement and load it into the car. At that point, the car was full and I had to leave the wooden cabinet. NBD.

Eventually, I'll get the cart back together and see how it functions in the garage. My garage floor has a slope and the casters have no locks. I may have to flip it. There's not a chance in hell I'm carrying that thing downstairs.

Outlawmws · Jan 13, 2026

That double post base was also used on the 6" jointer.

BSWS · Jan 13, 2026

FrankLee said:
Refurb Hardware Kits

I'm fortunate to have a really great fastener store near me; Mid-States Bolt & Screw. So, I usually have an ample supply of standard hardware parts for the Craftsman line of drill presses and usually replace much of them in all my refurbs.

I have enough hardware to offer custom refurb kits consisting some parts below based on the dp mode. Let me know what pieces you need and I’ll forward a quote.

A. Spindle Pulley Retaining Screws
Size: 8-32 x 3/4" slotted pan head
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150

B. Model Number Badge Screws
Size: 6-32 x 1/4" socket button head
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150, Craftsman/Dunlap 12-1/4”, many other machines
A 6-32 tap is required with #36 (0.1065") tap drill.

C. Head Trim Panel Screws
Size: 6-32 x 1/4" socket button head, polished.
Application: Craftsman 80, 100
A 6-32 tap may be required with #36 (0.1065") tap drill. The '46 to '49 machines were already tapped for machine screws here.

D. Head Trim Panel Screws
Size: 8-32 x 3/8" slotted round head, polished brass.
Application: Craftsman 150
An 8-32 tap will be required with #29 (0.1360") tap drill.

E. Spindle Collar Set Screw
Size: 5/16-18 x 3/8" socket cone point
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150

F. Leather Disk for feed handle assembly
Size: 5/8" diameter
Application: Craftsman/Dunlap 12-1/4”

G. Leather Disk for feed handle assembly
Size: 1/2" diameter
Application: Craftsman 80

H. O-ring Rubber Spindle Washer
Size: 5/8" ID, 3/16" cross section
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150

I. O-ring Rubber Quill Bumper
Size: 1-5/8" ID, 1/8" cross section
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150, Emerson Gen 2, 3, 4

J. MSA Pulley Retaining Screws
Size: 8-32 x 3/8" socket button head
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150
These are much easier to use with a 3/32" hex socket wrench than a slotted screw driver.
I've also used these for Packard motor bearing covers, Atlas bearing plates and more.

K. Rubber Bumper for studs on early pivoting motor mounts
Size: 5/16" ID
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150

K. Rubber Tip for the belt tensioning rod
Application: Emerson Gen 2, 3, 4, commercial

L. Rubber Cord Grommet
Size: 5/16 ID
Application: Packard motor bases with a 16/3 cord

M. Motor Mount Lock Screw
Size: 5/16-18 x 3/4"
Application: Craftsman 80, 100, 150, Craftsman/Dunlap 12-1/4”

N. Roll Pin
Size: 3/16" x 1-1/4"
Application: H&TL crank handle
Replaces grooved pin. Re-drilling not required.

O. Patent Number Badge Screws
Size: 4-40 x 3/8"
Application: H&TL patent badge
A 4-40 tap will be required.

P. Head Lock bolts
Size: 1/2-13 x 4"
Application: Craftsman 100, 150
I usually replace the head lock handles with a standard bolt. Once the head is installed on the column, there is rarely a need to move the head. In addition, the head cannot be moved with an MSA or Vari-Slo installed. There is no reason to keep the original handle.

FS: Atlas Drill Press & Sander Parts
FS: Craftsman 80/100/150 Drill Press Parts & More
FS: Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press MSA Sleeve/Collar - Multi Speed Attachment
FS: Craftsman Belt/Disk Sander Parts
FS: Craftsman Bench Grinder Parts
FS: Craftsman Emerson Gen 3/Gen 4 Drill Press Parts
FS: Delta Motor Shaft Guard
FS: Diamond Tool and Horseshoe GT28C Tile Nipper
FS: Jacobs Chucks
FS: Powr-Kraft
FS: Stationary Machine Switches

Hey Frank, I can't believe I missed this post about your kits until today, but this is great, Thank You. I'd like to think I'm done redoing drill presses after 2 but you never know. I'm saving this post just in case.

11b30b4 · Jan 14, 2026

Franklee, do you think the casters are from an old factory dolly cart? it is what comes to mind when I look at them.

Outlaw, the base of the pedestal and the columns may be the same as the 6" Jointer but the top mounts on my 6" Jointer are not square like the ones on my wood lathe pedestal. It makes sense that they would reuse the base and columns for several tools. I also have the 24" jig saw with the double column pedestal mount and I think it is also the same. I have not disassembled it yet so i am not sure about the top mounts on it. regardless, you got me thinking, I have been searching for another wood lathe pedestal and they are very rare here in GA but I do see the 6" jointers with pedestals quite often. I may be going that route to assemble a 100 series wood lathe and pedestal for a rebuild series in the future.

Outlawmws · Jan 14, 2026

FYI from the 63 catalog:

FrankLee · Jan 14, 2026

11b30b4 said:
Franklee, do you think the casters are from an old factory dolly cart? it is what comes to mind when I look at them.

Yeah. This whole cart is screams an industrial history. All parts were made for each other. I was wrong about the ball bearing swivels. Those are just steel disks turning on a pin.

The previous owner had another just like it. The SIL said there were other heavy duty carts. I didn't really have much time to look at anything else.

Here's the FBMP ad with a couple other machines that are in the same great condition as the drill press.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/26388051997451723/

There was a very nice Craftsman round-top grinder; almost new looking. I'm tempted to go back when they have the estate sale. This place is one hour from me.

11b30b4 · Jan 14, 2026

Thank you, I made thread about the pedestal tool stands some time ago here:

Pics of Craftsman Pedestal Mounted Tools

For anyone who has been on GJ for more than a few weeks, you have probably heard or seen these. For me, it has become an obsession. The art deco look and level of design and craftsmanship has made these my go to shop tools. Here some illustrations of these tools from various tool catalogs...

www.garagejournal.com

And I made a thread about the castors for the pedestal tool stands as well, here:

Classic Craftsman King Seeley Pedestal Mount Casters

Like the title says, I have several Craftsman KS pedestal mounted tools and I have a concrete floor in my shop. Back when these tools were marketed, you had the option to purchase a very unique caster for them. In this page from a 1950s catalog, you can see that the casters had the part number...

www.garagejournal.com

11b30b4 · Jan 14, 2026

11b30b4 said:
Outlaw, thank you, I made thread about the pedestal tool stands some time ago here:

Pics of Craftsman Pedestal Mounted Tools

For anyone who has been on GJ for more than a few weeks, you have probably heard or seen these. For me, it has become an obsession. The art deco look and level of design and craftsmanship has made these my go to shop tools. Here some illustrations of these tools from various tool catalogs...

www.garagejournal.com

And I made a thread about the castors for the pedestal tool stands as well, here:

Classic Craftsman King Seeley Pedestal Mount Casters

Like the title says, I have several Craftsman KS pedestal mounted tools and I have a concrete floor in my shop. Back when these tools were marketed, you had the option to purchase a very unique caster for them. In this page from a 1950s catalog, you can see that the casters had the part number...

www.garagejournal.com

BSWS · Jan 14, 2026

11b30b4 said:
Thank you, I made thread about the pedestal tool stands some time ago here:

Pics of Craftsman Pedestal Mounted Tools

For anyone who has been on GJ for more than a few weeks, you have probably heard or seen these. For me, it has become an obsession. The art deco look and level of design and craftsmanship has made these my go to shop tools. Here some illustrations of these tools from various tool catalogs...

www.garagejournal.com

And I made a thread about the castors for the pedestal tool stands as well, here:

Classic Craftsman King Seeley Pedestal Mount Casters

Like the title says, I have several Craftsman KS pedestal mounted tools and I have a concrete floor in my shop. Back when these tools were marketed, you had the option to purchase a very unique caster for them. In this page from a 1950s catalog, you can see that the casters had the part number...

www.garagejournal.com

Hey Jeff, you got me watching for pedestal stands now. Last summer I was in IN and needed a cheap grinder for a project there. I found a beat up CM grinder on a stand and decided it could be my buffer for now. It also had to fit in to my new color scheme.

mattaw · Jan 14, 2026

Got it!

Using @FrankLee 's technique #2 got the column out! Once it started moving gave it a bit more deep creep, stood it upright and twisted it back and forth till it came out.

I still need to disassemble the quill and chuck, then into the tote for degreasing and de-rusting. Left penetrating oil on it and the collar is under tension, maybe it will pop off overnight?

mattaw · Jan 17, 2026

"What monster lies under yonder briny swells?"

(I also got fed up of filling the tub from the hand basin one qt. at a time, and since it was in the basement shower room and I had a wrench anyway...

)

I still need to disassemble the quill and chuck, tried freeze off and left penetrating oil on it under tension, maybe it will pop off overnight.

FrankLee · Jan 18, 2026

DP#151 - Part 1

FrankLee said:
Yesterday was a long day... ~250 mile, 6-1/2 hour round trip to pick up these two machines.

Craftsman wood lathe with a double pedestal. Missing some parts, but the pedestal is complete with very nice original dark gray paint.

An Emerson Craftsman gen 2 bench top (DP#151). This one is easily in my top 5 of outstanding original-condition machines!
The owners manual, a drill press operation guide and the ORIGINAL sales receipt were included.

I've always considered these Emerson Gen 2's as the Edsels of Craftsman drill presses. They're not very attractive, but they included a few innovative enhancements; full belt cover, integrated lamp and switch, vertically pivoting motor mount, deeper feed and thinner single-plane table.

The gen 2 was produced between 1967 and 1969; a rather short period. Despite that short run, there were at least three versions of the belt cover, the cover mount and/or the cover pivot design. DP#151 was manufactured in November, 1968; one of the later of the gen 2's.

On this later model, they sprayed in a sound/vibration dampening material and added two stiffener braces. The front brace also acts as the rest stop.

The cover mount was also changed. The mount on the right is an earlier version. It has the rest stops built in and a kick-stand to hold the cover when lifted. The mount on the left is from this machine. It has an additional two mounting holes and larger 1/4" pivot rod holes.

This cover also has a paper caution label attached with double-sided tape. I wanted to save it before cleaning the cover. I carefully peeled it off, attached it to a magnetic sheet and laminated it.

This cover cleaned up beautifully. It is the nicest and straightest of the thirteen gen 2's I've had.

FrankLee · Jan 18, 2026

DP#151 - Part 2

I don't know why they eliminated the kick-stand on the cover mount.

Without it, the cover would contact and creased the top of the front panel when lifted. The photo below was from my DP#93.

mattaw · Jan 18, 2026

FrankLee said:
... and thinner single-plane table.

I see that the table has a hole drilled in it for the Pressmate table lift, but the Pressmate drawings in the manual show a 150 head with that table style. I'm guessing that parts from the presses were all switched between each other if the column size matched?

FrankLee · Jan 18, 2026

mattaw said:
I see that the table has a hole drilled in it for the Pressmate table lift, but the Pressmate drawings in the manual show a 150 head with that table style.

The hole is for key storage, but they designed the PressMate to repurpose it.

mattaw said:
I'm guessing that parts from the presses were all switched between each other if the column size matched?

Yes, parts from all Craftsman 15-1/2" drill presses with 2-3/4" columns are interchangeable.

Many manufacturers used so-called 2-3/4” diameter columns, but Atlas, Emerson and King-Seeley Craftsman and other brand columns were rarely 2.7500”.

Craftsman Drill Press

Just got a Craftsman drill press (and table saw) from my uncle as he doesn't use it much anymore. He bought it new in the 50's, and wanted it to go to someone in the family who would appreciate/use it. Also, because your drill press is a 100, painted gray and has a non-tilting table, I believe...

www.garagejournal.com

mattaw · Jan 18, 2026

Haha! Heat and freeze-off for the win! Spindle dissasembly is a go!

Edit: got it apart and bearings out! Hopefully Chuck disassembled too and all in Super Clean.

FrankLee · Jan 18, 2026

mattaw said:
Haha! Heat and freeze-off for the win! Spindle dissasembly is a go!

Good news!

mattaw · Jan 19, 2026

Strategic question folks, most of the Emerson paint survived the degreasing, I'm sure it will survive the derusting too. Its as hard as heck!

Rather than try to strip it, I'm tempted to paint over it with Rustoleum hammered grey + Magic activator.

Thoughts?

FrankLee · Jan 19, 2026

I only strip paint if it’s already been repainted. IMO, that factory paint is a good base. I still derust if necessary, prime then topcoat.

FrankLee · Jan 20, 2026

DP#151 - Part 3

FrankLee said:
I recently made a couple more pin spanners for 633C or 3333C chuck removal. They're so easy to make and work so much better than what's commercially available.

The shanks for the top three were made from band saw part #46, upper saw guide bar. The hook part on two were from a gen2/3/4 dp part #30 belt adjustment clamp. All required a bit of drilling, tapping and standard hardware. NBD!

Today, I had a chance to use my newest pin spanner for the first time on DP#151. This chuck wasn't much of a challenge, but still, the spanner works great!

mattaw · Jan 20, 2026

That is an amazing pin spanner - I was convinced I was going to break my cheap cast one when I was hammering on it to get the chuck off!

FrankLee · Jan 20, 2026

DP#151 - Part 4

Refurbishing such a clean machine is a real pleasure. I'm doing a bottom-up overhaul. I have the base and column complete and assembled.

There was no rust on the column. I first wiped it down with mineral spirits and it took just a few minutes on the lathe to clean. The table and head are also clean, but need wax.

After the chuck was removed, I found a couple surprises with the spindle.

First, the bearings were very dry. I didn't expect that on this machine. But it is 58 years old, though. They're going to be replaced anyway.

Second, run-out is almost non-existent. This little run-out is rare... ~0.0005".

1/21/2025

The table is all I completed today, but wow!

1/22/2025

The head casting is complete.

1/23/2025

The hub/pinion and the quill/spindle assemblies are complete.

FrankLee · Jan 25, 2026

DP#151 - Part 5

The feed stop assembly is clean and installed.

The spindle pulley is clean with new bearings installed. The spindle pulley assembly will be installed after the belt cover is installed.

Here's the electrical panel. The previous owner added a separate switch for the lamp; a good concept, but I don't like the execution.

I have a similar switch as the oe switch, so I'll be making the same change to the panel as I did on DP#125 back in 2023.

FrankLee · Jan 25, 2026

DP#151 - Part 6

I've got the panel cut out for the new switch. A hand nibbler tool is wonderful!

When I removed the original switch, I discovered a cold solder joint. Some of these switches are assembled with a rivet. This one has a removable pin, so I took it apart.

Interesting... I've got a better idea.

FrankLee · Jan 25, 2026

DP#151 - Part 7

I de-soldered the wires and tapped the terminals for screws. The terminals were already prep'd for machine screws.

1/26/2026

The power panel is complete (almost) and works great. The screw terminals make for very tidy wiring. I still need an 8-32 coupling nut to raise and attach the lamp socket.
Not shown, but I did apply some Shoe-Goo over the screw heads for insulation.

mattaw · Jan 26, 2026

I've been Ill and tired, however I'm feeling better. Here is a teaser - the backyard ballistics rust removing brew is amazing!

Before and after photos of just the motor plate:

Post processing was dunking in slightly basic water (washing soda), then hot air gun dry.

mattaw · Jan 26, 2026

FrankLee said:
DP#151 - Part 7

It looks stock! I'd never guess.

FrankLee · Jan 27, 2026

mattaw said:
It looks stock! I'd never guess.

A black switch would look better, but white is what I had.

DP#151 - Part 7.1

I also modified the female outlet by drilling out the rivet and replacing it with a 4-40(?) screw. Then attached the cord ground directly to the outlet with a nut.

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