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Show us your arbor press!

F-22

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Jan 23, 2022
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1,827
Hey, here's my hand press:

IMG_1341.JPEG

Is this also called an arbor press? I have no idea how strong it is, but I assume you get a lot more leverage when the lever is towards the end of the stroke. It's just a simple three-piece mechanism, no teeth.
It's a short stroke, and you adjust the height with the screw. It must be made for more mass production work, and being always set to the same height (like for riveting stuff? could imagine that something like this was used for putting rivets in clothes or shoes...).


Since the "head" is removable and on a dovetail, it would make for a cool project to make a rack-and-pinion setup on there instead. I think that'd make it a lot more versatile for home use.
 
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huckaberry

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Dec 24, 2022
Messages
33
Hey, here's my hand press:

IMG_1341.JPEG

Is this also called an arbor press? I have no idea how strong it is, but I assume you get a lot more leverage when the lever is towards the end of the stroke. It's just a simple three-piece mechanism, no teeth.
It's a short stroke, and you adjust the height with the screw. It must be made for more mass production work, and being always set to the same height (like for riveting stuff? could imagine that something like this was used for putting rivets in clothes or shoes...).


Since the "head" is removable and on a dovetail, it would make for a cool project to make a rack-and-pinion setup on there instead. I think that'd make it a lot more versatile for home use.
Thats an interesting machine , it looks like it would have a shorter throw than a rack & pinion press , but , it looks like it could have some powerful leverage , and the ram looks like you can make all different type of mandrels for bending / punching / pressing etc. , i don't think it would make sense to convert to rack & pinion , it looks like theres alot of leverage as is .......... im no expert on these , maybe someone will chime in .
 

whateg01

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Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,127
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
Hey, here's my hand press:

IMG_1341.JPEG

Is this also called an arbor press? I have no idea how strong it is, but I assume you get a lot more leverage when the lever is towards the end of the stroke. It's just a simple three-piece mechanism, no teeth.
It's a short stroke, and you adjust the height with the screw. It must be made for more mass production work, and being always set to the same height (like for riveting stuff? could imagine that something like this was used for putting rivets in clothes or shoes...).


Since the "head" is removable and on a dovetail, it would make for a cool project to make a rack-and-pinion setup on there instead. I think that'd make it a lot more versatile for home use.
I really like that design. I can imagine situations where that would be preferable to a rack and pinion. It would be hard to calculate the tonnage since it varies depending on where in the stroke you are. I don't know if there is any kind of standard for that or not, like the force when the lever is horizontal?
 

F-22

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Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Messages
1,827
Thats an interesting machine , it looks like it would have a shorter throw than a rack & pinion press , but , it looks like it could have some powerful leverage , and the ram looks like you can make all different type of mandrels for bending / punching / pressing etc. , i don't think it would make sense to convert to rack & pinion , it looks like theres alot of leverage as is .......... im no expert on these , maybe someone will chime in .
Yeah got too many projects anyway... :)

Here's a video of it in action:

I googled a bit further, it seems this is called a "toggle press". It's a German design, first made for stamping coins. A big part of its design is that it has a fast movement to and away from what you're pressing, but as it is being pressed (something like a coin) the force rises exponentially. But it is ideal for "short" presses, like stamping coins or rivets...
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
Yeah got too many projects anyway... :)
...

I googled a bit further, it seems this is called a "toggle press". It's a German design, first made for stamping coins. A big part of its design is that it has a fast movement to and away from what you're pressing, but as it is being pressed (something like a coin) the force rises exponentially. But it is ideal for "short" presses, like stamping coins or rivets...
That's a good example. Punching holes is another. As you said, moving the tool to and from the work quickly, but multiplying the force when it's time to get to work!
 

huckaberry

Active member
Joined
Dec 24, 2022
Messages
33
I've been thinking about restoring my arbor press and the hydraulic press it's attached to.

20230116_075332.jpg20230116_075304.jpg20230116_075314.jpg
thats a nice machine !..... and thanks for the idea of mounting to the hydro press , save space , i think i'll do that with mine .
...... i have a question on numbers on these , yours has a 1 1/2 on it but it looks like it's more than that (ton)........ mine is a number "3" and according to the catalog i found it is a 3 ton , so does Dake have a different numbering system for how they rate tonnage ?
 

iagsxr

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Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
1,495
Location
Vinton, Iowa
thats a nice machine !..... and thanks for the idea of mounting to the hydro press , save space , i think i'll do that with mine .
...... i have a question on numbers on these , yours has a 1 1/2 on it but it looks like it's more than that (ton)........ mine is a number "3" and according to the catalog i found it is a 3 ton , so does Dake have a different numbering system for how they rate tonnage ?

I think it came right from Dake mounted to the hydraulic press. Anyway it's been like that longer than I've been alive so I can't take credit for the idea.

Mine is a 3 ton press. I had thought the 1 3/4 referenced the ratio of the ratchet mechanism but now I'm thinking it's just a model number.

Dake's website is pretty good but I just started looking around on it.
 

12vx2

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Joined
Feb 6, 2017
Messages
75
Location
Duck Creek New Mexico
Nice setup!

I cleaned mine up a little, too.
I have used many hydraulic presses with smaller arbors on them, I have never seen a retractable or swing down castor set up to relocate it on any. Not sure how it works, but that is a terrific idea. Do you use the ram to push on a shaft to lift it and set the castors?
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
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Location
SF Bay Area

Sweetcorn

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Feb 14, 2018
Messages
659
Location
North Central Ohio
I have used many hydraulic presses with smaller arbors on them, I have never seen a retractable or swing down castor set up to relocate it on any. Not sure how it works, but that is a terrific idea. Do you use the ram to push on a shaft to lift it and set the castors?
Thanks. I made a thread about it a little while back when I prettied up the hydraulic press. Here's a link with a couple of pictures that help:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/freshened-up-a-dake-75h-press.501954/

Basically, it just uses a 1/2-13 bolt to push the wheeled arm down. You can turn the bolt and push the casters down easily with a 6" adjustable wrench or a 1/4" drive ratchet.

I came up with a design and just kept stripping it down until I had the least amount of components I could have on it and still retain the functionality I wanted.

Rolls surprisingly easy, can do it with one hand.
 

iagsxr

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1,495
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Vinton, Iowa

Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Everybody wants a press, most without a need in sight. So they paint them as display pieces, lowering potential use farther yet!
Starting here, uses will become apparent as you work.

Step 1. Mount to rigid stand, bearing on the pads underneath press, without obstructing the opening. Remember, some parts [like axles] need room below....
Step 2. Keep the slotted plate, and scrounge long rectangular steel one. 1" thick is sufficient, you can weld gussets or drill and tap for jackscrews as reinforcement. Next time you are straightening, this forms bed for V-blocks.
Step 3. Remove the ram, drill and bore or ream a 1/2" central hole about 1.5" deep, cross drill for two 1/4"-20 setscrews. This allows conversion for tooling, especially holders for smaller pin punches. Turn a mushroom for normal use, protecting the newly bored hole. Use flat point setscrews or mill small flats; cup points distort diameter, making removal a problem.
Step 4. With 2 pieces of rod stock, 1/4" to 3/8" diameter [depending on gear rack size] set them in two teeth, two or three teeth apart, measuring distance outside to outside. Deduct 1 pin diameter, this calculates distance between centers selected. Build a block holding those pins that clamps to ram, adding a fine thread screw to land on head of the frame. This will adjust accurately, stopping travel repeatedly; long as the screw protrudes, extending about distance of two teeth.
Step 5. Extra Credit.....I use a simple pointer on a magnet stuck to ram, and a 6" scale also on a magnet, but on the frame. This helps indicate depths, where there is no land or blind hole to indicate same. Also handy when straightening, when known travel attains desired deflection.

Don't paint stuff until you are satisfied with completion.

I don't and won't do videos or plead for subscriptions. I rarely add CAD drawings, pix, sketches, or drafted drawings. As mentor, and mentee alike, my belief says there is little benefit steering someone into MY concept, compared to pointing them in a possible direction, nearly forcing their own visualization take charge.
Apt descriptions have generated patents and monumental construction for hundreds of years...
Hello Sir,
I must say I have thoroughly enjoyed reading all of your replies to this thread. Very informative. You sound eerily similar to one of the old timers I’ve encountered over on Practical Machinist forums over the years. Good day to you Sir and thank you for contributing valuable insight.
 

Razorhunter

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Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
To any and all Dake ratchet lever press owners….
Can anyone here identify the location and actual purpose of part #5 on this Dake diagram? It is a 3/8-16 x 2” hex bolt, according to the schematic legend and this is the diagram for a 5 ton Dake model 3A press.
Absolutely no where on my Dake 3A do I have a 3/8-16 x 2” hex bolt, neither am I able to find a hole where such a fastener might even reside…????
Does anyone here have knowledge of what this bolts purpose is and where exactly it locates on a Dake ratchet lever press???? See pic for details.
 

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RTM

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Just looking at the drawing, a not owning a Dake that big, I wonder if it’s a poorly drawn rendition of what might be holding pieces 6, 7, and 8 in place, which looks like the back side of the handle, and you need to look between that and the frame to see it. Just guessing.
 

Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
RTM, I’m thinking it was a design change, as the lever rest pin #6 is actually held into a bored hole in the casting via a setscrew, and there simply is no #5 in any of the many DAKE presses I’ve ever owned and I’ve owned many lol.
Here you see me holding #6 and 7 in my hand (the compound rest pin and setscrew). I do not have a 6, 7, or 8 and this is the exact model press the schematic is for. I’m thinking DAKE just changed the design or something. It’s odd because they have been built like mine door almost a hundred years.
 

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Razorhunter

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Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
By the way, since I just happened to find this thread, here is some arbor press love for you guys. Most are mine, or were mine. The big double column Greenerds are not mine however. I will own a Greenerd 30 ton one day however. I simply must have one.
 

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Razorhunter

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Messages
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RTM, I’m thinking it was a design change, as the lever rest pin #6 is actually held into a bored hole in the casting via a setscrew, and there simply is no #5 in any of the many DAKE presses I’ve ever owned and I’ve owned many lol.
Here you see me holding #6 and 7 in my hand (the compound rest pin and setscrew). I do not have a 6, 7, or 8 and this is the exact model press the schematic is for. I’m thinking DAKE just changed the design or something. It’s odd because they have been built like mine door almost a hundred years.
 

Razorhunter

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Messages
393
Sorry for the double reply. Here is another big Greenerd.
 

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Dave455

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Mar 19, 2013
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Sussex, England
Hey, here's my hand press:

IMG_1341.JPEG

Is this also called an arbor press? I have no idea how strong it is, but I assume you get a lot more leverage when the lever is towards the end of the stroke. It's just a simple three-piece mechanism, no teeth.
It's a short stroke, and you adjust the height with the screw. It must be made for more mass production work, and being always set to the same height (like for riveting stuff? could imagine that something like this was used for putting rivets in clothes or shoes...).


Since the "head" is removable and on a dovetail, it would make for a cool project to make a rack-and-pinion setup on there instead. I think that'd make it a lot more versatile for home use.
Thar’s called a “Toggle Press” - at least it is here in the U.K.

Yes, invaluable for things like rivets, but to be honest they’re a good option for pretty much any fastener that normally needs hammering.

A firm I worked for had a job that involved roll pinning an aluminium knob to an aluminium slider. It was the last assembly job on a project, was performed with a hammer and punch, and they trashed about 1 in 10. Switching to the togggle press (using simple tooling) resulted in zero rejects.

Yes, you’re right, there’s a lot of force at the end of the stroke.

I wouldn’t mess with it. If you really want an arbor press I’d sell the toggle press and buy an arbor press. You will probably make a profit! But personally, unless you are really short of space, I’d keep the toggle press!
 
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G-ManBart

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Jan 24, 2015
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2,059
Location
Michigan
I've been keeping my eye out for a decent arbor press for a while, hoping for a floor model. I've bid on many and looked at some that turned out to be pretty trashed, so I walked away. Turns out I finally got one, but not a floor model. It's a Dake 2-1/2 that seems to have lived a pretty easy life. It's dirty, but everything seems to work and all it really needs is a handle and something to mount it on. I'm probably going to fabricate a small table for it (like 2x2') because every time I'm using my hydraulic press I find I'm looking for a place to set things down. At some point I'll give it a cosmetic refresh....have a lathe cabinet that needs new paint so I'll probably so both at the same time.IMG_3848.jpgIMG_3849.jpgIMG_3847.jpg
 

kenc184

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Feb 25, 2012
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718
Location
Nor Cal
I upgraded my Dake 3 ton arbor press to a Dake 3 ton ratcheting arbor press. Got it for a good price, it had no rotating plate, or pawl. I found a drawing of the pawl online so made one up and case hardened it. Works fine. I haven't - and won't - paint it, as it is a user tool.
The eagle eyed will spot that it has the 5 "hole" base plate off my old - now sold - Dake, rather than the 4 "hole" plate which should come with the ratcheting press.

unnamed.jpg
 

G-ManBart

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Jan 24, 2015
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Michigan
Made a handle and bolted it to one of my fab tables for now...looks a lot bigger on a table. In the background is my Clausing 6913 lathe that is a partial overhaul project. It's pretty good size at 14" swing with 48" between centers, but it looks small behind the press!

IMG_3854.JPG
 

Razorhunter

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Apr 25, 2013
Messages
393
Compound? The ratchet drives the spindle directly.
Those Dake presses are either single leverage (no sliding pins) or compound leverage (two sliding pins, with one being single leverage and the second being compound leverage). The one you see above is indeed a compound leverage press. You can look them up on the net to get a full explanation. I honestly don’t have the time. It’s late and I’m beat.
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
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SF Bay Area
I haven’t been on here in a long time. Oh how my shop has changed since I started this thread in 2010. I can’t believe it’s still active!!
I keep looking for new and better ways to use mine, or modify it to work better
 

SilverJimmy

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Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,619
Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
When my mentor friend shut down his home machine shop I got this press from him.E7898ED5-D2B6-4019-A430-93DA0A659202.jpeg
5A30312C-F742-42D5-BAA1-49904BA44EB1.jpeg
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It’s a combination hydraulic, screw, and arbor press. Built 2 months after my dad was born, and it works perfectly! The table is lifted and lowered by the chains and hand crank. Just need to clean it up and make a new handle for the arbor press. The hand wheel on the screw press isn’t painted black, that is 85 years of grease and oil petrified into a hard coating!
 

larry4406

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
18,739
Location
Northern Virginia
When my mentor friend shut down his home machine shop I got this press from him.E7898ED5-D2B6-4019-A430-93DA0A659202.jpeg
5A30312C-F742-42D5-BAA1-49904BA44EB1.jpeg
A9372010-B463-4BD2-BF2C-51E9EA14B1A9.jpeg
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It’s a combination hydraulic, screw, and arbor press. Built 2 months after my dad was born, and it works perfectly! The table is lifted and lowered by the chains and hand crank. Just need to clean it up and make a new handle for the arbor press. The hand wheel on the screw press isn’t painted black, that is 85 years of grease and oil petrified into a hard coating!
I would not clean it or anything! That just reeks of vintage goodness!
 

All

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Mar 28, 2013
Messages
606
@bubinga

How do you keep that green stand under your arbor press from tipping toward you whenever leaning down hard on the press handle?
 

bubinga

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Jul 26, 2014
Messages
12,744
Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
@bubinga

How do you keep that green stand under your arbor press from tipping toward you whenever leaning down hard on the press handle?
It does tend to. Just have to be careful right now. I'm going to bolt the stand down some day here.
I don't think you can see the bottom of the stand in the picture, but it was 2X4's mounted on the bottom, that extend pretty far forward. It's not too bad so far.
I still plan to bolt it to the floor.
 

dwall174

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Jun 1, 2012
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453
Location
Southeast Michigan
When my mentor friend shut down his home machine shop I got this press from him.
A9372010-B463-4BD2-BF2C-51E9EA14B1A9.jpeg
It’s a combination hydraulic, screw, and arbor press.
I'm in the process of building a hydraulic press, after seeing your picture of the arbor press combined in the hydraulic press!
It's got me thinking of how I could add the hydraulic press to the back of my arbor press.
 

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morsetaper2

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Jul 5, 2014
Messages
10
Greenerd #30 3-ton armature press. I made up a plate to allow it to operate and be used like a typical arbor press. Bought from HGR surplus 15-ish yrs ago. The green paint makes me wonder if it was originally in a John Deere facility?
 

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