dkmc
Well-known member
I get their email ads all the time. Their prices are pretty good on most things. I've bought a couple Goyen valves from them.
I'm actually using a Goyen valve 'backwards' as a supply valve on my smaller Trinco cabinet.
The Abrasive Blasting Resource Thread
- Thread starter OccupantRJ
- Start date
I'm actually using a Goyen valve 'backwards' as a supply valve on my smaller Trinco cabinet.
dkmc
Well-known member
I think the 5120 is the only V config in the QR series?
It's listed at $450, negative contact from seller.
Compressor will be available in 4 weeks, maybe a road trip!
dkmc
Well-known member
Do you have 3phase electric to run that? It's probably 15-25hp
I built a RPC to run my Champion. Looked at American Rotary, need to check with SPS at adding real three phase at my shop.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Someone needs help with blast cabinet hoses.
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Need some help with hoses for a blast cabinet
I have a central pneumatic blast cabinet, bought it used for like $200 before the world went crazy. The hoses have all rotted or worn through and and ID and OD are not printed on them. Does anyone know what type of hoses to get to fix this up? Its this model...
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R_Holiday
Well-known member
I have an ALC sandy jet blasting cabinet that works great. I made a metering valve for it but it doesn’t seem to work. Here’s a pic of the setup. If anyone can tell me what’s wrong with the setup I’d appreciate it. I didn’t mount it at the bottom because I wanted to retain the spring hinge to change media without having to weld it closed.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
The ambient air intake hole is too far from where media would puddle as it moves, and the extension from the cabinet too long.
Let me see if I can find a pic for you
Let me see if I can find a pic for you
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Read this. Also look at the pictures in post #11 at the mix valve. You want the grit dribbling a constant flow into the edge of the air flow to allow it to get sucked along with the air to the gun. This abrasive blasting thread is long overall but there is much to be learned from it if you take the time to read more.
www.garagejournal.com
HF Blasting Cabinet Fixes
Looked at 8 or 10 YouTube videos on modifying a sand blasting cabinet and spent $100+ and 3/4 of a day installing a gravity feed system and increasing the air hose size to 3/8" id. Only made it worse. What did I do wrong?
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
The mix valve can also be incorporated into the hinged door. The mix valve will swing aside to drain media. Here is a pic of one of my cabinet mix valves. It is a piece of pipe cut in two at 45 degrees, then rotated and welded together. My grit intake hose, which is 5/8” heater hose, inserts inside and can be slid back and forth to open or close down the ambient air flow hole to regulate it. To far in gives a grit rich mixture and too far out is gives a lean grit mix. The other holes are past experiments.
Keep no more grit than necessary in the cabinet hopper as it will settle and the weight will impede flow. An electric vibratory sander can be used on the lower hopper by bolting the pad to the hopper and running it off a foot pedal as needed during operation. Properly designed, you should not need that.
@R_Holiday, Sorry forgot the pic of the simple mix valve.
Keep no more grit than necessary in the cabinet hopper as it will settle and the weight will impede flow. An electric vibratory sander can be used on the lower hopper by bolting the pad to the hopper and running it off a foot pedal as needed during operation. Properly designed, you should not need that.
@R_Holiday, Sorry forgot the pic of the simple mix valve.
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R_Holiday
Well-known member
Thanks for the advice occupant. I’ll read through what you recommended and also shorten the tube. I’ll also look into moving it to the swing door.
TriumphFan
Well-known member
I am using a 20 gal pressurized sand blaster. Is there a kit or a DIY mod to add a longer handle or wand so I don't have to be so close to the deadman valve? Pic just because...
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Need pic of dead man valve on hose.I am using a 20 gal pressurized sand blaster. Is there a kit or a DIY mod to add a longer handle or wand so I don't have to be so close to the deadman valve? Pic just because...
TriumphFan
Well-known member
Are you getting pelted by the media? Try aiming the nozzle at a 45 degree towards the un- blasted area. Are you using the proper PPE?Ask and ye shall receive... The dead man is from Eastwood.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
That is a tricky one with the dead man valve at the very end. You could hose clamp the valve open and add a pipe wand with a ball valve at the upper end to control with, but it will not last long term due to abrasion. With that said, it may last long enough to improve your comfort level somewhat.Ask and ye shall receive... The dead man is from Eastwood.
TriumphFan
Well-known member
Yeah, that and having to bend down to work the piece. I try to keep the angle at 45* but with this frame, it's not always possible. I'd like to be able to stand straight up and use two hands like a pressure washer.
Extending the nozzle length will change its design function, lift the frame to chest level?
TriumphFan
Well-known member
sandblasting wand
Pricey
Pricey
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Throw some more concrete block risers under that sucker. Just don’t let your groin area get close to what you are blasting. A static bolt will wake you up! Ask me how I know. I use a jumper cable and a short ground rod driven in the ground to help with that. A Facebook small blaster group you may also be interested in is devoted to that blaster.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I have pressure blasted before with a ball valve on section of pipe, a bell reducer, and a short piece of 1/8 steel pipe ****** as a nozzle. It works but wears fast. Cheaper than that price.
Damon L.
Well-known member
I have the Kennemetal nozzle and ball valve on my pressure blaster. allows you to grab the hose further back.
dkmc
Well-known member
How many are you getting?
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
That's enough of them to give a sandblaster enthusiast an organism!
dkmc
Well-known member
Wellll......I'm not a Ford guy for starters.
But 6 of one, half dozen of another sounds tempting.
Maybe they'll have a buy 2 get 1 free sale eventually
No, but it should work fine.
dkmc
Well-known member
If you do, post the results
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
We used free wood planer shavings at work to polish small stamped parts. It would disintegrate during the tumble and get tossed as dirty grey sawdust. It all got dumped into a large perforated hand basket over a tub to shake out the dust from the parts. Sand or oil dry should also work. It just depends on the size of the parts and the finish you want. A lid is needed for materials that crumble to keep dust down If you use an open top tumbler like a cement mixer.
They work well as tumblers.
They work well as tumblers.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I enjoy restoring and modifying things and bought two Craftsman upper tool chests both for $15 on FB marketplace, a 12 drawer and a 14 drawer. The 12 drawer had the lid missing so it is getting modified into an under bench cabinet. They had obviously ridden in the weather a few times so had surface rustus muchus, to be cured by a liberal dosage of alox.
Did you know that it takes quite a while to blast 12 tool box drawers inside and out? I am not in a rush so I tend to stretch things of this nature out over a few days for sanity.
Oh, the things we do for fun!
Did you know that it takes quite a while to blast 12 tool box drawers inside and out? I am not in a rush so I tend to stretch things of this nature out over a few days for sanity.
Oh, the things we do for fun!
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any of you guys try large totes full of water with citric acid to knock down the rust? i did it in october when it was cold, note heat helps aid the reaction, all the rust brushed off with a nylon brush after a week or is it several days?
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I have tried several soaks but it takes too long for me, and a lot of things I work with need to have some sort of deposit or finish coating removed. I also work by my mood, bouncing from one thing to another, but I do complete things unlike some people who tend to do that. I usually keep two to five things going at once and work by opportunity, working on various parts of different devices at once. An average is about 5 months in a refurbish the size of a Bridgeport mill, lathe, or such, so I need the variety.
dkmc
Well-known member
This is an abrasive blasting thread. I'm not sure we recognize chemical rust removal ?
Seriously tho.....I've heard citric/cleaning soda works better than Evaporust. I want to try it.
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OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I have been out out the shop blasting my tool box drawers this morning, two more large ones to go. Blasting my drawers sounds like a digestive issue, doesn’t it?
Here is a peek at the last finished product. I am doing a second creation now. It is a standard Craftsman top tool box modified into an under bench storage.
I switched to the second compressor this morning to give the first one a well deserved rest.
Here is a peek at the last finished product. I am doing a second creation now. It is a standard Craftsman top tool box modified into an under bench storage.
I switched to the second compressor this morning to give the first one a well deserved rest.
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dkmc
Well-known member
Looks great. I've had a much worse result when blasting my drawers a time or 2.
dkmc
Well-known member
Bad news, tank blew up, 1 fatality. Drain your tanks. Hydro test them. Replace them.
OP
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Bad deal, and all the best to his family.
I wonder if his fire dept brothers or some other official will investigate the tank further as to whether it was caused by a bad tank or a stuck pressure relief valve after a failed pressure switch. Even at our state required pressure vessel inspection when I was working all the inspector did was visually inspect the tank while standing up, compare the data stamp to his previous tank info, read the marked pressure on the pressure relief valve, and have me to manually activate the valve to insure it was not stuck. The bottom of the horizontal tanks could have had ten screws driven into them to prevent pinhole leaks and they would have never seen it. 150# relief valves were used because our air system pressure cutoff was set to 125.
One tank was a 1947 Westinghouse and no one other than me ever seemed to be concerned by that fact. It just held air, right? Certainly the owners were not. The tank is now 78 years old. The two tanks were drained at least twice a day and drain lines were air gapped to the drain system to allow visual confirmation of removed water.
I wonder if his fire dept brothers or some other official will investigate the tank further as to whether it was caused by a bad tank or a stuck pressure relief valve after a failed pressure switch. Even at our state required pressure vessel inspection when I was working all the inspector did was visually inspect the tank while standing up, compare the data stamp to his previous tank info, read the marked pressure on the pressure relief valve, and have me to manually activate the valve to insure it was not stuck. The bottom of the horizontal tanks could have had ten screws driven into them to prevent pinhole leaks and they would have never seen it. 150# relief valves were used because our air system pressure cutoff was set to 125.
One tank was a 1947 Westinghouse and no one other than me ever seemed to be concerned by that fact. It just held air, right? Certainly the owners were not. The tank is now 78 years old.
The two tanks were drained at least twice a day and drain lines were air gapped to the drain system to allow visual confirmation of removed water.