amateurwheels
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Show us your arbor press!
- Thread starter atari
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Nutria
Well-known member
Whatever color you like. Is Nicholson related to Greenerd? The press, ram, and stand all look a lot like Greenerd to me, but I'm no arbor press guru.
Ultradog MN
Well-known member
Agree with Nutria - it looks a lot like my Greenerd 3AS-1.
Did you get the daisy wheel for it.
I had one made.
If you think the one in the photo below would work on yours I still have the .DXF file they used to CNC burn mine out that I could send you. They did a real nice job.
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amateurwheels
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I did not. I do have access to a Mazek and a Waterjet. I'll send you a PM, I appreciate it!
I wonder if the slots in the base are for different types of daisy wheels?
starlight_tools
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Reading through and looking at all the shop presses, figured I'd share my press. I picked this press up while I was in Millwright school, just a few centuries ago. No fancy paint jobs, it is as it came.
It is a Famco 25R, I hauled it home in the trunk of a valiant car (did not come with the stand)! It is one of the most used tools in my shop. Built the stand for it using 3x3x1/4 angle iron, realized it was too low, so added the extra lift with a 3/4" plate on the bottom. Plate is handy as you can press longer items against it.
Like most tools in the shop, the press is only the base tool, it needs lots of extra tooling to make it work efficiently and I have been collecting press accessories ever since I got it. Many are specialized for particular usage, other more general purpose.
Press pins and sleeves of various diameters come in handy for pressing bearings on and off shafts
I made the bearing knives shortly after getting the press using 1-1/4" T1 plate and 5160 for the threaded rods and have been using that as it did not come with a slotted daisy wheel.
The project right now is designing the Daisy wheel (snail plate), and learning how to use CAD.
It is a Famco 25R, I hauled it home in the trunk of a valiant car (did not come with the stand)! It is one of the most used tools in my shop. Built the stand for it using 3x3x1/4 angle iron, realized it was too low, so added the extra lift with a 3/4" plate on the bottom. Plate is handy as you can press longer items against it.
Like most tools in the shop, the press is only the base tool, it needs lots of extra tooling to make it work efficiently and I have been collecting press accessories ever since I got it. Many are specialized for particular usage, other more general purpose.
Press pins and sleeves of various diameters come in handy for pressing bearings on and off shafts
I made the bearing knives shortly after getting the press using 1-1/4" T1 plate and 5160 for the threaded rods and have been using that as it did not come with a slotted daisy wheel.
The project right now is designing the Daisy wheel (snail plate), and learning how to use CAD.
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starlight_tools
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Managed to get some progress done on the snail plate today.
First step, after cleaning the clutter off the mill table was to bolt down the rotary table, then centre under the spindle. it is only an 8" so I used a brake disc as a sub table.
Centred the brake disc on the rotary table and tightened the bolts.
Centred the plate over the rotary table, using a sacrificial piece of plywood sandwiched in between the brake disc and the plate to drill into. Then drilled the centre pivot hole.
Offset the mill table to establish the hole circle, and started lining up centre marks and drilling the holes. Since the spacing was not equidistant, used the rotary table to rotate the plate but did not really concern myself with how many degrees each movement was.
As the holes got larger switched to annular cutters to drill hole and boring bar to size each one.
The final hole, drilled with a 3-5/8 holesaw, worked but was not really a happy drill! Lots of cutting lube and constant stop to clean out swarf, resorted to vacuuming it out, just to keep the cutter from jamming on the filings.
First step, after cleaning the clutter off the mill table was to bolt down the rotary table, then centre under the spindle. it is only an 8" so I used a brake disc as a sub table.
Centred the brake disc on the rotary table and tightened the bolts.
Centred the plate over the rotary table, using a sacrificial piece of plywood sandwiched in between the brake disc and the plate to drill into. Then drilled the centre pivot hole.
Offset the mill table to establish the hole circle, and started lining up centre marks and drilling the holes. Since the spacing was not equidistant, used the rotary table to rotate the plate but did not really concern myself with how many degrees each movement was.
As the holes got larger switched to annular cutters to drill hole and boring bar to size each one.
The final hole, drilled with a 3-5/8 holesaw, worked but was not really a happy drill! Lots of cutting lube and constant stop to clean out swarf, resorted to vacuuming it out, just to keep the cutter from jamming on the filings.
Oregon rock crusher
Well-known member
Your shop made press tooling looks good and very useful starlight. Here is a shop made arbor press I picked up this summer. It was made in an old machine shop in Portland and ended up at a swap meet. I cleaned it up and modified a few things to make it a little better.
Worst problem as it came was the arbor was out of square to the press plate. I wasn't sure I would like the left hand ships wheel but it is comfortable in actual use. Way more stroke for pushing broaches than my Dake 3 ton which is very useful and with the gear reduction it has good power without a lot of effort. Ed.
Worst problem as it came was the arbor was out of square to the press plate. I wasn't sure I would like the left hand ships wheel but it is comfortable in actual use. Way more stroke for pushing broaches than my Dake 3 ton which is very useful and with the gear reduction it has good power without a lot of effort. Ed.
whateg01
Well-known member
That's a lot of leverage. Don't get your fingers in the wayYour shop made press tooling looks good and very useful starlight. Here is a shop made arbor press I picked up this summer. It was made in an old machine shop in Portland and ended up at a swap meet. I cleaned it up and modified a few things to make it a little better.
Worst problem as it came was the arbor was out of square to the press plate. I wasn't sure I would like the left hand ships wheel but it is comfortable in actual use. Way more stroke for pushing broaches than my Dake 3 ton which is very useful and with the gear reduction it has good power without a lot of effort. Ed.
starlight_tools
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Large hole is designed so that a sleeve can be set into the counter bore and Tee Bushings set onto the sleeve for pushing through.
Alternately the Tee bushings can be set directly into the counterbore to give a series of hole sizes without having to get another plate.
Decided to go 1/2" for the pivot hole, so reamed out the hole. Had to go old school and use a tap handle as I did not have a angle drill around that would fit without modifying something.
1/2-20 Socket head cap screw, had a smooth shaft that was 0.496" diameter, so turned the head down to match, still left a thin walled socket to mount the pivot screw with. Yup, it is a bit long, may shorten it, but at least it does not jump off the table.
In place. Largest hole is larger than the opening in the table.
Short sleeve with a Tee Bushing.
Long sleeve with a tee bushing
Alternately the Tee bushings can be set directly into the counterbore to give a series of hole sizes without having to get another plate.
Decided to go 1/2" for the pivot hole, so reamed out the hole. Had to go old school and use a tap handle as I did not have a angle drill around that would fit without modifying something.
1/2-20 Socket head cap screw, had a smooth shaft that was 0.496" diameter, so turned the head down to match, still left a thin walled socket to mount the pivot screw with. Yup, it is a bit long, may shorten it, but at least it does not jump off the table.
In place. Largest hole is larger than the opening in the table.
Short sleeve with a Tee Bushing.
Long sleeve with a tee bushing
whateg01
Well-known member
Never heard anything called atee bushing. Finally figured out you meant a flange bushing. I like that idea. I keep putting off cutting a plate for my about presses but I like that idea.
starlight_tools
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The sleeves and the "Tee" "Flange" bushings are from one of the tool suppliers as part of their "specialty" tools which service centres can purchase. I just incorporated it into the design.
Now to see if I like this better than the bearing knives, I have been using for the last 30 years.
whateg01
Well-known member
There are still situations that a bearing separator are usefulThe sleeves and the "Tee" "Flange" bushings are from one of the tool suppliers as part of their "specialty" tools which service centres can purchase. I just incorporated it into the design.
Now to see if I like this better than the bearing knives, I have been using for the last 30 years.
starlight_tools
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I have three different sizes of bearing knives that I use with that press on a regular basis. Even with the snail plate, I'm sure they will still get used.
There are times though that when pressing, more support is required than what can be supplied by the bearing knives. This plate will give a better circular support.
DavidR8
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starlight_tools
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Added a bolt on table to increase the daylight of the press today. 6 x 6 x 5/8 angle Iron 18" long.
I followed the same system as on the snail plate with the 4-1/2" sleeves and flanged tee bushings, centred under the press ram.
The angle iron is bolted to the stand with six 3/8NC16 SHCS's, and the holes in the stand are drilled 1-1/2" C-C vertically in 9" C-C row at the top and 12" C-C row in the lower section, this allows the table to be adjusted vertically the height of the stand.
I followed the same system as on the snail plate with the 4-1/2" sleeves and flanged tee bushings, centred under the press ram.
The angle iron is bolted to the stand with six 3/8NC16 SHCS's, and the holes in the stand are drilled 1-1/2" C-C vertically in 9" C-C row at the top and 12" C-C row in the lower section, this allows the table to be adjusted vertically the height of the stand.
First post here on the forum, and figured this was the perfect thread to kick things off.
Just picked up this 1920's (?) Weaver Motor Service Press at a local auction for $78. These auction photos are all I have of it at the moment, but it looked to be in good shape in the 1-2 minutes I had to get a sneak a peak at it.
My plan is to put it to work on my old Beetle immediately. I'll post some updated photos once I haul it home, clean it up, and get it properly set up in the shop.
Glad to be here!
Just picked up this 1920's (?) Weaver Motor Service Press at a local auction for $78. These auction photos are all I have of it at the moment, but it looked to be in good shape in the 1-2 minutes I had to get a sneak a peak at it.
My plan is to put it to work on my old Beetle immediately. I'll post some updated photos once I haul it home, clean it up, and get it properly set up in the shop.
Glad to be here!
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LeeG
Well-known member
Welcome. I picked up my big 5 ton press a few years ago while passing through Kansas City. A guy had a whole shop of equipment he had fixed up and was selling at a pretty good price.
I built a stand for it and it lives under a tarp out next to my hydraulic press.
I need to build a stand for mine. May need to steal your design!
Patrickm82
Well-known member
It does! I haven't had a chance to dig into yet (just picked it up 15 minutes ago), but it looks like it's missing at least the knob on the back. No idea what it's for though.
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RTM
Well-known member
Looks like it might lock the straightening fixture, shown 2nd up from lower right image here, into its desired horizontal position.
Weaver Manufacturing Co. : 1925 : Weaver Manufacturing Co. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
5 p., illus., 27.0 cm, trade catalog
archive.org
Welcome to GJ!!!
@Oregon rock crusher has one of those Weaver Motor Service Presses (and seems to collect other Weaver items, based on posts in other threads here). Maybe he can help you out!
Mike
Oregon rock crusher
Well-known member
Congrats on your Motor service press rcjh77 and thanks for the wake up call Mike. I noticed in the first picture you posted there was the brake lining attachment shown. Hopefully you got that with the press as they are not common and very useful for punching holes and setting rivets way beyond just relining brake shoes. Other factory attachments including the cast stand are not at all common.
That hole through the back of the press was for arbors which the exposed end would be the same diameter as common crank shafts of the time. That allowed you to fit up bearings and check length and alignment on piston / rod assemblies on the bench. The missing knob on the back would lock the arbors in place. The add RTM attached explains a lot of features and here is one more that adds a bit more info. Ed.
That hole through the back of the press was for arbors which the exposed end would be the same diameter as common crank shafts of the time. That allowed you to fit up bearings and check length and alignment on piston / rod assemblies on the bench. The missing knob on the back would lock the arbors in place. The add RTM attached explains a lot of features and here is one more that adds a bit more info. Ed.
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Thanks for the info, RTM, Mike, and Ed!
As for the brake lining attachment, I did get that with the press. The more I try to learn about this press, the luckier I feel that I found it, especially that attachment. These presses seem to be few and far between. I assume there are quite a few that will be changing hands over the next several years as they get passed down or sold at auction.
By the way, Ed, I messaged you on another forum yesterday, not realizing you were here. Thanks for reaching out!
As for the brake lining attachment, I did get that with the press. The more I try to learn about this press, the luckier I feel that I found it, especially that attachment. These presses seem to be few and far between. I assume there are quite a few that will be changing hands over the next several years as they get passed down or sold at auction.
By the way, Ed, I messaged you on another forum yesterday, not realizing you were here. Thanks for reaching out!