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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT 3rd time's a charm with a 3 car workshop

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

M.Brane

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Any of those rubber lines that are heavily oxidized or show cracks should be replaced. If you don't want to spring for the AN bling on the fuel line FI hose is a good upgrade from standard fuel hose. So are the clamps.
 
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Xti04

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AN lines are not difficult to make but each fitting adds up quick. I built some custom lines for a Subaru STI build I did for a customer and between all the pieces I needed it was over 300 dollars in just fittings and then the hose he ordered was not cheap either. I was happy with them, no leaks and it looked really good when I was done.
 

OutlawDrifter

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I'm a full "zero it out" guy when it comes to putting stuff back on the road or used purchases. ALL fluids, ign components, rubber lines/hoses.

I would skip the AN/braided setup if it was me...the hardline from the pump and rubber hose makes for an easy roadside repair if needed. As stated, go for FI line and FI clamps if you want to upgrade. As long as the fuel pump isn't pushing through the needle/seat on that Edelbrock you should be GTG without the fuel pressure gauge. I would much rather have a metal filter in its place.
 

madison069

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Monroeville, PA
I'm a full "zero it out" guy when it comes to putting stuff back on the road or used purchases. ALL fluids, ign components, rubber lines/hoses.

I would skip the AN/braided setup if it was me...the hardline from the pump and rubber hose makes for an easy roadside repair if needed. As stated, go for FI line and FI clamps if you want to upgrade. As long as the fuel pump isn't pushing through the needle/seat on that Edelbrock you should be GTG without the fuel pressure gauge. I would much rather have a metal filter in its place.
IMG_0061.jpeg
 
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loganb

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Yeah...Speedway list is getting long

HEI distributor tune up kit
Plugs and wires...plus some improved wire loom for wires. Spent some time reading up on the MSD 6AL box ...future problem...I've got enough right now

Need to verify rear end so can get a new gasket for it... believe it's stock
Found a inline fuel filter, so that's easy
Probably replacing existing fuel line/hose clamps with the fuel injection hose...didn't realize that was different so thanks! Price tag on AN is steep as expected
Debating a bit on replacing the filter/gauge with an all in one regulator/filter with gauge to clean that up a bit..have to figure out mounting locations
Crawling under it at lunch to see if the TH350 pan has a drain plug or not...if not new drain pan is getting ordered

Will pull radiator hoses when I do coolant drain and take them to auto parts to hopefully find a match as can't find a PN on them. Need to further dive into the engine date codes/casting stamps so I can determine exactly what it came out but for most of the stuff it's pretty straight forward.

Tempted to do water pump at same time as coolant...

Going to pop the power steer belt off today and take both it and the alternator belt in to get new ones.

Still working thru seatbelt issues on the rear seats, new alternator is supposed to ship by Friday so won't go in this weekend.
 
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loganb

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Skip it all together...with a good coil in that HEI cap, you don't need the 6AL or anything like it. Just added **** to go wrong on a cruiser type vehicle that you want dead reliable.

Exact same sentiment I gathered from a couple other sites. In cases it can make a difference, but for a cruiser not worth the complexity. Keep a spare HEI module in glovebox and move on
 
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loganb

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IMG_2079.jpeg

Again……
Appreciate the moderation so I have money to spend on more frivolous things down the road that have less potential to cause headaches!

In good news alternator shipped ahead of schedule and is supposed to show up tomorrow now so will get that installed by the end of the weekend along with the new accy drive belts.
 
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loganb

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Jumping to another project that's been in hibernation

Wanting to finish the planer, it was moved from a dedicated base to on top of a Vidmar to save floorspace....but need to finish the infeed and out feeds

20260228_150654.jpg

Thinking about something like this.....though want it easy and repeatable so if I can make it work replace the tension handle with a spring pin into a drilled hole?
 
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loganb

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Not much accomplished on the car due to work and family commitments but spent a small pile of cash on incoming parts

Filter kit and new ****** pan with drain plug
New differential cover kit with drain and fill plug

I fully realize that the new pan/cover with drains are overkill...but i hate pans without fluid drains

New HEI tune up kit
New plugs, wires and some wire loom accessories

Haven't made a decision on fuel lines/regulator yet

Need to pick up oil filter and that should get the bulk of it except for cooling system. Will probably do that last and when I drain have to pull radiator hoses and take them in to find matches. Will replace heater hoses and thermostat at same time.

New Tuff Stuff alternator is on the bench and awaiting a free lunch hour later this week to get installed. Once that's in should be able to finish LED signals and then start radio install.
 
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loganb

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Ordering Friday and showing up on Sunday doesn't ****

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Another box from Summit coming but this gets me more then enough to be dangerous this week. Don't want to do a ****** filter change in the storage unit, but rear diff cover, alternator, plugs, wires can all easily be done.
 
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loganb

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In another wild oscillation from project to project....nap time brings me to an indoor project when I'm not always as comfortable going out to the garage and getting into something in depth(and I'm sure this is more of a mental excuse)

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New to me baby printer got booted up and setting up so I can start playing with it. Not sure what I'll do with it, it's size makes it super handy for traveling with....but I don't have a real need for that but since when does need have anything to do with it. I should have an extra Pelican case laying around that is the right size for it.
 
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Blackbyrd

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TN
Do as much as you can in one go, nothing more frustrating then doing the obvious items only to have to tear into the other stuff in proximity 2-4 weeks later.
 
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loganb

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Do as much as you can in one go, nothing more frustrating then doing the obvious items only to have to tear into the other stuff in proximity 2-4 weeks later.

Spoken like a guy who has been there, done that...and probably returned? lol

Kinda my thought as well. Rear diff is straight forward....drain, remove cover, clean, install fresh gasket and cover...refill and wipe up spilled mess...shouldn't ever have to touch it again. Alternator and new accy drive belts are easy, wiring may get loomed/cleaned up down the road but that'll be done in teh garage not the storage unit.

Plugs/wires/distributor cap/coil/rotor should also be easy as well...minus leaning over the engine bay to get to the distributor. Get all that done and I'll probably take a break and go back to seatbelts, LED conversion and stereo work depending on weather.

Will still have engine coolant drain/refill and all associated hoses, transmission fluid/filter change plus new pan, engine oil change, and brake fluid flush. None of those I want to do in the storage unit....but I've got more then a couple lunch hours already committed to the prior stuff so it'll take a bit and some decent-ish weather to get to the stuff when it needs to be in the garage. That'll also give me more time to decide what I'm doing with fuel lines/filter/regulator which I'd also prefer to do in the garage

With fluids, hoses, tunes and seatbelts done....I'll be looking a bit at handling. Subframe bushings are on a shelf for it as well...thats reportedly an hour or two of work...another that has to be done in the garage. By now we're solidly in spring time(if not weather) so it's should be sleeping at home and I can get more miles on it and figure out how much more work the wife will tolerate now vs just drive :)
 
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loganb

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So it begins

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Back together but not filled back up yet. Had to go to the hardware store as the provided bolts were too short, but a new Ace just opened up so got a chance to visit. Oil was definitely not original so guessing it got changed about 24 years ago

New alternator is also in...but wiring needs work and a 2 wire pigtail for the sense plug on the alternator is coming in tomorrow as the 2 wire plug that was on the old alternator was of course different. Gives me a better reason to cut apart the loom and figure out where wiring is going and make sure it's wired correctly

In the 70's the next 2 days and a guy at work who was on vacation and I was covering for is back so maybe some early days out and knock some of these items off the list. Trying hard to stay on the functional items and not jump to the radio and speakers ....reminding myself I need alternator working properly to not blow the new head unit!
 
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loganb

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Chasing down what existing wiring is and what was done on the car before to understand if the factory voltage regulator was still existing and functional. The new alternator is internally regulated so the original external regulator can be removed and wiring bypassed

enginebay1.png


Existing tape wrap loom along passenger side of carb and back on top of firewall over to behind brake booster mostly exposed. Will be replaced with split loom type

Original regulator is on radiator support, appears to be wired as factory so I can remove the box, and make a jumper across 2 of the wires. As I don't see a reason to ever go back to an externally regulated unit I could probably pull this harness back to the firewall and make the jumper there, but functionally it's the same if I jump it and wrap it up in a concealed location so for short term that's likely what happens

enginebay2.png

The new alternator is bolted up but has to come back out. The rear bracket on the prior alternator isn't big enough for this larger (100 amp vs 37 amp) unit. I'll have see if I can lengthen it out and modify the rear bracket to work or if fabbing/buying a new one is in store

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loganb

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That rearend is a limited slip Posi, do you have the additive for Posi clutch? I might of missed it if you mentioned it.

Good eye and thanks for watching out! I've got Red Line GL-5 which has the friction modifier in it so should be good to go

More wiring work over lunch hour....old vacuum solenoid not used on this engine and another wire I haven't yet chased down but was unhooked and 2 that were cut in the loom....but progress

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loganb

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Realized upon closer examination my issue with the rear alternator bracket was due to how the alternator was clocked. 5/16 socket to reclock it 90 degrees and problem should be solved. I didn't realize but the alternator I ordered wasn't clocked at 12 as is default here...so my fault.

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Dumped the hardware into the Vevor ultrasonic
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Some high temp primer and them high temp black and should be ready to reinstall tonight.

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Pigtails for the 2 pin harness showed up so should have what I need to wire it up and throw a voltmeter on and see if the voltage regulation works....fingers crossed. Assuming it does adding a dedicated volt gauge and not using the dash generator light is on the future project list....but down the road.
 
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loganb

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I guess it helps to be able to read an analog clock :ROFLMAO:

I will admit my 7 yr old is struggling with the need to tell time on an analog clock with the digital display with it is on the tablets, phones, stove and microwave.... Alas we will make sure the kids know how!

Now that I've got the alternator "reclocked" and the clock is past bed time...back to garage I go

Alternator got reinstalled

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Matte black is a bit...well matte but it's a support bracket. New pigtails plug is temporarily in for testing ....I like Wago's but don't plan to keep it there lol

Wiring this up as shown on the link here:


Got the pigtail in for the harness to the external voltage regulator.


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Long term I think this harness may get pulled out, but for now this is sufficient and I'll pull the voltage regulator off the radiator support.

With a bit of help from the wife I was able to get it fired and the trusty Fluke voltmeter read 14.6v from idle to 2500 rpm and no magic smoke left anything (that I saw) so this seems to be a success! Lots of wire cleanup to do ...but glad this one seems to be working so far

And got 3 quarts of Red Line GL-5 into the diff

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Need to check on how much higher the rear cover fill plug is vs the normal one as I was using the rear cover as it's easier...and why I got this cover. It swallowed 3 qts when most sources I found said approximately 2
 

gearhead1960

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I will admit my 7 yr old is struggling with the need to tell time on an analog clock with the digital display with it is on the tablets, phones, stove and microwave.... Alas we will make sure the kids know how!
Glad to hear you're working to get your 7 yr old clock literate. SWMBO teaches HS students and this year she had to teach several of her classes how to read clocks. Several of her student athletes were resistant at 1st until she pointed out the high $$$ watches (brands better than Rolex) that her student's Athlete Idols wore....all analog...and that they knew how to read them... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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loganb

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Glad to hear you're working to get your 7 yr old clock literate. SWMBO teaches HS students and this year she had to teach several of her classes how to read clocks. Several of her student athletes were resistant at 1st until she pointed out the high $$$ watches (brands better than Rolex) that her student's Athlete Idols wore....all analog...and that they knew how to read them... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Props to her to figure out how to relate and motivate them!

"Gonna look stupid with that Patek on the wrist if you can't read it!'
 
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loganb

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The magnetic pinch clamp/3rd hand type soldering aids came in handy

alt1.png

Alternator install should now be done

alt2.png

A lot of wire cleanup to do, but need to put that on the backburner and get the rear seatbelts functional. Just resolved the issue with them not unrolling figured out...the reel needed to be flat/clamped on a table to mirror the installed orientation to allow the internal safety pendulum to release so it can unwind. With that resolved I can get the backseat in, the reals mounted on the deck and pick up some booster seats/car seats to mount in the backseat for the excited passengers
 
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loganb

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Seat belts got done



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The right angle attachment is critical for the mounting bolt that goes thru the rear package shelf

Had to clean up one of the holes for the drivers seat belt and couldn't find the chaser set so cutting tap it was


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Pull ashtray, vent and the inside glovebox container to get the duct work out of the way to get the front dash mounted speaker out
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New speaker from Classic Car Stereo, what they recommended for a system without an amp



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Radio out
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Wiring mess...check

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And new head unit...appears to be nicely done and solid instructions.

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See what I think in an hour or two
 
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loganb

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I love those wiring labels
I need to use them more! Generic cartridge for the Brother label maker

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Believe they're around 18 bucks for a 3 pack. Biggest complaint is that the label maker can only do 1" tall labels..which on tubing means it's rolled and printed flat and the tube when flat is just short of 1" across. Then when you slip it around a wire its not as big as you thought.....lol

For normal single wire labels it's no problem and their are a couple different sizes....but don't believe you could slip it on 14/2 romex. So far it hasn't been a significant headache and caused me to buy a bigger one....so far.

Currently have no rear speakers but the wires are there ..but not labeled. So ohm'ed them out with the help of a couple of test leads daisy chained together to get them identified and then labeled

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Don't have the speakers installed yet though.

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Head unit is in...everything is wired up with Wago lever locks as it's gonna have to come out several more times. The standard bezel is about 1/16 too tall....the narrow bezel is way too small....have to figure out what I'll do to get it just right. So right now the bezels are off.

This head unit needs retained 12v for memory etc so pulled that for the time being from the cigarette lighter. Confirmed it works and fires up the front dash speakers which are laying on the floor....mounting bracket for that isn't just right.....so more work there as well. But the radio is at least in(for now) which is honestly farther then I expected to get today.

For the audience who made it this far....what's your preferred splice or connection for low amperage auto work? Solder and heat shrink....crimp on type connector be it **** or spade....wire nuts and electrical tape? Something else?
 
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Xti04

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2,258
I need to use them more! Generic cartridge for the Brother label maker

20260314_194946.jpg

Believe they're around 12 bucks for a 3 pack. Biggest complaint is that the label maker can only do 1" tall labels..which on tubing means it's rolled and printed flat and the tube when flat is just short of 1" across. Then when you slip it around a wire its not as big as you thought.....lol

For normal single wire labels it's no problem and their are a couple different sizes....but don't believe you could slip it on 14/2 romex. So far it hasn't been a significant headache and caused me to buy a bigger one....so far.

Currently have no rear speakers but the wires are there ..but not labeled. So ohm'ed them out with the help of a couple of test leads daisy chained together to get them identified and then labeled

20260314_193021.jpg

Don't have the speakers installed yet though.

20260314_191843.jpg

Head unit is in...everything is wired up with Wagon lever locks as it's gonna have to come out several more times. The standard bezel is about 1/16 too tall....the narrow bezel is way too small....have to figure out what I'll do to get it just right. So right now the bezels are off.

This head unit needs retained 12v for memory etc so pulled that for the time being from the cigarette lighter. Confirmed it works and fires up the front dash speakers which are laying on the floor....mounting bracket for that isn't just right.....so more work there as well. But the radio is at least in(for now) which is honestly farther then I expected to get today.

For the audience who made it this far....what's your preferred splice or connection for low amperage auto work? Solder and heat shrink....crimp on type connector be it **** or spade....wire nuts and electrical tape? Something else?
Audi taught me to use **** splices and with my ratcheting crimper that splice is as solid as can be. We had to endure watching multiple videos where they showed how solder joints can fail and why they felt **** connectors were superior. I go with a 3m heat shrink connector as I have great success with them. I used to build a lot of radio harnesses and if they were coming in and out a lot I would use either the bullet style or flat male/ females so I could unplug them. Still got heat shrinked, as I like the glue bond to the wire.
 
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loganb

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Imho—- solder and heat shrink tubing

This is what I've historically done. I spent a lot of time in college working in structures labs supporting beam testing...getting paid to break stuff? Ok! All the cables for data collection there were all solder and heat shrink, often into amphenol connections so there wasn't room for crimp type connectors.

As I was familiar with it, I've continued doing it for the most part.

Audi taught me to use **** splices and with my ratcheting crimper that splice is as solid as can be. We had to endure watching multiple videos where they showed how solder joints can fail and why they felt **** connectors were superior. I go with a 3m heat shrink connector as I have great success with them. I used to build a lot of radio harnesses and if they were coming in and out a lot I would use either the bullet style or flat male/ females so I could unplug them. Still got heat shrinked, as I like the glue bond to the wire.

I've often dismissed crimp type connectors as an emergency type fix only....but have started to realize this opinion was probably influenced by never having good connectors and a good crimper. I picked up a ratchet type crimper with interchangeable dies a couple months ago along with some Wirefy brand heat shrink connectors and my opinions have definitely changed.
 
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