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Truss/Sheating question

feotto

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Hi, I have some help coming tomorrow with intent to fly trusses. Today I only got two sides of a 26' x 26' 11' walls garage sheathed. Is it OK to go ahead and get trusses up with right side not sheathed, and sheath it after they're up, or maybe get 2-3 sheet up to help stabilize the wall before trusses?
 

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feotto

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You need to sheet that wall. At the very least put some diagonal braces on. The front wall could use some more shear also.
I do have diagonal bracing on right wall (look at truck roof) but not really long enough to hand my hat on, and would add another to right side of that wall. I agree more is needed and maybe put up 3 more sheets and get more of front wall completed. Thanks for the advice.
 

Codyboy

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Hi, I have some help coming tomorrow with intent to fly trusses. Today I only got two sides of a 26' x 26' 11' walls garage sheathed. Is it OK to go ahead and get trusses up with right side not sheathed, and sheath it after they're up, or maybe get 2-3 sheet up to help stabilize the wall before trusses?
This. You don't want the framing moving at all.
You and friends that are helping with trusses could put up at least the corner sheathing in a few minutes.
 
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feotto

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This. You don't want the framing moving at all.
You and friends that are helping with trusses could put up at least the corner sheathing in a few minutes.
Yes, that's what I plan to do. Putting up 3 sheets and another diagonal brace. Walls are already plumb and braced all corners.
 

PopcornSutton

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Diagonal braces on the inside of the framed unsheathed wall. Install a brace in the middle of the length on both sides to insure the wall stays straight will getting the trusses on top. Very easy to bump the wall out of alignment mid span.
 

PCustoms

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x#? It needs to be fully sheathed, plumb, square etc. before adding trusses.

Too late now but way easier to sheath the wall and tip it up IMHO.
 

mike93lx

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At the day job, we fully sheath the gable trusses while on the ground, apply Tyvek, and even build the ladder framed soffit and trim it out before craning it up into position.
I'd really like to try this on my next build. I've seen videos from a builder in the PNW (awesome framers) where they even trim and side before standing tall walls.
 

larry4406

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I'd really like to try this on my next build. I've seen videos from a builder in the PNW (awesome framers) where they even trim and side before standing tall walls.
As a general practice, we never install siding until after house/structure has had its drywall installed. The structure moves slightly with the weight of the drywall.

I have done it per office direction with vinyl siding. We had to redo a couple sections of siding after the house was hung as the vinyl showed ripples in a couple locations. I have also done it per office direction with Hardy siding with no ill effects visible.
 

mike93lx

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As a general practice, we never install siding until after house/structure has had its drywall installed. The structure moves slightly with the weight of the drywall.

I have done it per office direction with vinyl siding. We had to redo a couple sections of siding after the house was hung as the vinyl showed ripples in a couple locations. I have also done it per office direction with Hardy siding with no ill effects visible.
Seems like they don't side on most builds, but this is one I could find. Not a huge wall.

 

jack stand

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It might be too late, but diagonally squaring up the top of your walls should be done.
Just because you're level says each walk is plumb....
This can be a problem with truss layout and having the sheathing fall where there's a truss under the seam.
 
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feotto

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So, had a 3 person Amish crew out this after who got the roof up/sheathed in about 4 hours. Knew I was in over my head after sheathing 11' walls. They lifted up trussed by hand (one person pushed up to two working top plate, and sheathed gables after flying them. Best $2k I've spent.
 

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TRWham

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I'm not sure you meet the minimum braced wall panel requirements. We always use the portal framing method (CS-PF) around garage doors. You only need to extend the header(s) a few feet, so it adds nearly no material, but offers sufficient shear resistance with less braced wall panel length.
 

ddurrett896

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I'm not sure you meet the minimum braced wall panel requirements. We always use the portal framing method (CS-PF) around garage doors. You only need to extend the header(s) a few feet, so it adds nearly no material, but offers sufficient shear resistance with less braced wall panel length.

I've always done a double LVL across the entire garage and it's always rock solid - cost is negligible.
 

TRWham

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So IRC disallows 18' single garage doors?

Hint: I don't think the IRC specifies the header length
Read the code and be enlightened.

ETA:

Now that I have a minute more: the longest finished opening allowed is 18 feet, so an 18' door is fine. You also cannot have more than one finished opening within a single portal frame, so even 2 single 8' doors could not be accommodated by one 18' opening. When the standard was set based on APA testing, they only tested up to an 18' opening, so that is still the limit.
 
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PCustoms

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Read the code and be enlightened.

I did, your original statement was incorrect.


ETA:

that I have a minute more: the longest finished opening allowed is 18 feet, so an 18' door is fine. You also cannot have more than one finished opening within a single portal frame, so even 2 single 8' doors could not be accommodated by one 18' opening. When the standard was set based on APA testing, they only tested up to an 18' opening, so that is still the limit.
 

whateg01

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At the day job, we fully sheath the gable trusses while on the ground, apply Tyvek, and even build the ladder framed soffit and trim it out before craning it up into position.
Back when I built houses in the mid90s, that's h how we built houses. Wall was pretty much complete before being stood up. Especially nice on the 2nd and 3rd stories.
 
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feotto

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Diagonal braces on the inside of the framed unsheathed wall. Install a brace in the middle of the length on both sides to insure the wall stays straight will getting the trusses on top. Very easy to bump the wall out of alignment mid span.
That's exactly what the Amish crew did. Used my 14' 2x6's. Rafter tails are straight as an arrow.
 

kwb

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Whenever I see a stick frame erected without sheeting I have to wonder why the people doing it like to make a job harder on themselves?
We fully sheated my 42x14' walls and I even caulked the nail heads for the part of the wall that was done in T1-11. 5 amateur crew and we had all 5 wall segments standing in a weekend.
 

CraigStu

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Whenever I see a stick frame erected without sheeting I have to wonder why the people doing it like to make a job harder on themselves?
We fully sheated my 42x14' walls and I even caulked the nail heads for the part of the wall that was done in T1-11. 5 amateur crew and we had all 5 wall segments standing in a weekend.
Because 2 old guys can easily lift a single 4x8 or 4x10 or even a 4x12 sheet of whatever. But they can't stand up a wall w/ 3-5 sheets on it.
 

kwb

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I used rope, a couple 2x6's and a truck.
If you get nervous about the size you can always do the wall in a couple sections.
If I was building again I would have a forklift or telehandler on site for a week or so.
 

Beemer

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Careful bracing the trusses while in progress.
My neighbor's came crashing down when the carpenters didn't think it was an important part of erection.
 
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