The other day, I watched from the beach as Steve took my daughter out to Waiohai for a surf session. The swell was coming in heavy, the chop was relentless, and most folks out there were fighting for their lives. Not Steve. He’d spring up on his self-shaped board, plant his feet closer together than any surf coach would recommend, and lean back like he was rolling a lowrider down Whittier Boulevard without a care in the world. When the wave closed out, he’d step off clean… no leash, no drama, just style.
Steve’s my closest friend on the island and the kind of renaissance man you can’t pin down. He’s a hot rodder, an artist, a surfer, a surfboard shaper, a story teller, and the host of one of the most wonderfully chaotic rock ’n’ roll shows I’ve ever heard on public radio. The man’s just good at everything and just like his surfing, he makes it all look effortless and more stylish than it should be.
We had dinner at...
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