Custom cedar patio door

H

hefnerconstructionlc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
665
Location
Kansas
Building a pair of custom cedar patio doors for a customer. Still several steps to go but shaping up nicely. Milled down rough red cedar to size.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20260326_162804971.jpg
    IMG_20260326_162804971.jpg
    837.4 KB · Views: 65
  • IMG_20260326_120109521_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260326_120109521_HDR.jpg
    572.9 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_20260326_120051921_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260326_120051921_HDR.jpg
    658 KB · Views: 43
  • IMG_20260326_154835015.jpg
    IMG_20260326_154835015.jpg
    750.2 KB · Views: 42
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
H

hefnerconstructionlc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
665
Location
Kansas
Bored through the tenon. Pleased with the fit up
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20260331_121026486.jpg
    IMG_20260331_121026486.jpg
    520.4 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_20260331_121035276.jpg
    IMG_20260331_121035276.jpg
    548.9 KB · Views: 44
C

Codyboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
1,577
Location
S.E. TEXAS
Those look really nice!
How thick are the stiles and rails?

Is there any reason you went with a rabbeted panel instead of a floating type panel?

I am going to build a couple doors for the shop bathroom from rough cedar but I think im going for more of a barn look.
I love working with cedar a lot. It seems better suited for machining than pine.

One thing I really like is old reclaimed cedar fence pickets. If you can find some old ratty looking stuff they just give it away.
Check it for metal and run it through the planer and its like brand new.
I need to find me another source , as the fence contractor I would go to went out of business.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
H

hefnerconstructionlc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
665
Location
Kansas
Codyboy said:
Those look really nice!
How thick are the stiles and rails?

Is there any reason you went with a rabbeted panel instead of a floating type panel?

I am going to build a couple doors for the shop bathroom from rough cedar but I think im going for more of a barn look.
I love working with cedar a lot. It seems better suited for machining than pine.

One thing I really like is old reclaimed cedar fence pickets. If you can find some old ratty looking stuff they just give it away.
Check it for metal and run it through the planer and its like brand new.
I need to find me another source , as the fence contractor I would go to went out of business.
Click to expand...
Just easier for me with the tooling I have. I had originally planned to go that route but thought it would be difficult to assemble with the tenons at the same time while keeping the door squared. Also I would have needed to rabbit the edges of the t&g and it just seemed like an unnecessary complication.
 
OP
H

hefnerconstructionlc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
665
Location
Kansas
Doors are getting drilled for the tenon pins. The screening trim has also been shaped and sanded. The screening trim is loose fitted and will get screws to allow for easy screen replacements.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20260402_171106588.jpg
    IMG_20260402_171106588.jpg
    703.4 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_20260402_171104667.jpg
    IMG_20260402_171104667.jpg
    610.6 KB · Views: 24
  • IMG_20260402_181527633.jpg
    IMG_20260402_181527633.jpg
    742.9 KB · Views: 22
  • IMG_20260402_181739419.jpg
    IMG_20260402_181739419.jpg
    816.6 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_20260402_181920521.jpg
    IMG_20260402_181920521.jpg
    731.4 KB · Views: 29
C

Codyboy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
1,577
Location
S.E. TEXAS
hefnerconstructionlc said:
Just easier for me with the tooling I have. I had originally planned to go that route but thought it would be difficult to assemble with the tenons at the same time while keeping the door squared. Also I would have needed to rabbit the edges of the t&g and it just seemed like an unnecessary complication.
Click to expand...
O ok. Ive only made a few things with panels but not the size of a full door.
Yes I could see it would be easier on assembly and trying to manage sliding it all together with glue oozing out everywhere.
 
OP
H

hefnerconstructionlc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
665
Location
Kansas
All wrapped up, fitted, and installed.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20260406_174402718.jpg
    IMG_20260406_174402718.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 27
  • IMG_20260406_174535399_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260406_174535399_HDR.jpg
    980.3 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_20260406_174439143_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260406_174439143_HDR.jpg
    912.7 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_20260406_174538949_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260406_174538949_HDR.jpg
    962.5 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_20260406_130410521_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260406_130410521_HDR.jpg
    698.5 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_20260406_174424026_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260406_174424026_HDR.jpg
    780 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_20260406_174531071_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20260406_174531071_HDR.jpg
    873.1 KB · Views: 35
OP
H

hefnerconstructionlc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
665
Location
Kansas
captain14 said:
What is your recommended long term care and maintenance required for the door?
Click to expand...
Well it seems to me, that with any outdoor stained project, I think you probably need to reapply every 2 to 3 years. This helps to keep the grain clear and not oxidized. Brand seems less important, whether it's cabot, Sickkens, Penofin, TWP, Flood or any other brand of oil based stain. They all seem to last about 2 to 3 years on horizontal surface and maybe a year or two longer on vertical max.

Yes you can go longer than that, but after 2-3 years, it seems like the sun really gets to the wood. Then the wood really starts to oxidize and dry out. Which is why I think a two or three year reapplication time frame for that door would be advised. It was very costly to produce so if it were mine I would stay on top of it.

On my deck I pretty much reapply every two years. I think the brand matters less than just staying on top of the recoating.

Some of the transparent oil finishes are more oily some are more plasticy some flash off quicker. But they're all pretty similar. It's more that you should pick up brand and just stick with it so they're compatible.
 
Last edited:
T

tarbellb

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
5,709
Location
Oregon
Looks real sharp, certainly nicer then anything you could buy

I noticed the black hardware everywhere but the screw heads on the upper mesh section..... I would be painting or replacing those for my own sanity. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom