Show Us Your Shop Built Cabinets

Bessy

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Dec 18, 2012
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I've got some analysis paralysis going on, so while I ponder some more, I'm wondering who will show me their woodshop built cabinets! Uppers, Lowers, Doors, Drawers, Sliding Trays? I'm interested in anything you've got that you've built for your shop!
 
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jar944

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Northern VA
I've got some analysis paralysis going on, so while I ponder some more, I'm wondering who will show me their woodshop built cabinets! Uppers, Lowers, Doors, Drawers, Sliding Trays? I'm interested in anything you've got!

Cabinets for the shop, or house cabinets built in the shop?
 

Boilerhouse

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Muskoka
I built 6 lower cabinets last winter in order to get some much needed organization into the shop. They were built with 5/8 Baltic Birch ply, except the drawer bottoms, which were 1/2 inch ply. The drawer joints were locked mitre joints. The cabinets were just a bit under 24 inches deep, and 24 inches wide, and by making them all basically the same, I could do one set up and run through the stock like an assembly line. It saved a bit of time, but really dialled in the quality control. I wanted a lot of shallow drawers, so roughly half were 2 inch, the remainder varied from 3, 4, 6 and even a few 12 inch drawers, which seemed like a good mix. Drawer slides are 100 lb, full extension.

1.JPG4.JPGDSCN8762.JPGDSCN8763.JPG
 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
I built 6 lower cabinets last winter in order to get some much needed organization into the shop. They were built with 5/8 Baltic Birch ply, except the drawer bottoms, which were 1/2 inch ply. The drawer joints were locked mitre joints. The cabinets were just a bit under 24 inches deep, and 24 inches wide, and by making them all basically the same, I could do one set up and run through the stock like an assembly line. It saved a bit of time, but really dialled in the quality control. I wanted a lot of shallow drawers, so roughly half were 2 inch, the remainder varied from 3, 4, 6 and even a few 12 inch drawers, which seemed like a good mix. Drawer slides are 100 lb, full extension.

1.JPG4.JPGDSCN8762.JPGDSCN8763.JPG
Those look fantastic! Nice job!
 
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Bessy

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Agreed, @Boilerhouse ! Those look fantastic. You've got me thinking now about putting wheels under some of mine (when I get them built). I have been wondering about whether I want to lose 10ish feet of depth across the whole garage or not.
 

Boilerhouse

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I installed the wheels so that I could move the cabinets around if I ever needed to clean around them or to relocate them if that should ever be desired. I bought the wheels on sale at Princess Auto, so they added just a small cost in the scheme of things.
 

Dig Doug

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I didn’t build em

but
about 10 years ago I had them built for a job, then the building owner wanted them removed when the tenants lease was up

I had a nice spot for em
3/4 inch MDF - white inside adjustable shelves, no lowers

I had to get creative to fit stacked like they are, but tons of storage


IMG_2517.jpeg
 
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Bessy

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I installed the wheels so that I could move the cabinets around if I ever needed to clean around them or to relocate them if that should ever be desired. I bought the wheels on sale at Princess Auto, so they added just a small cost in the scheme of things.
Any time the four pack of 3" casters goes on sale I grab a couple sets. Usually can be had for about $12-$15 I think. I just found a couple sets of them in the spare tire compartment of my car. Must have stashed them down there when we moved because I was filling out every bit of space I could to avoid additional rental days.

Cleaning is definitely not something I had thought too much about because I'm not the cleanest shop owner out there, but definitely I'm thinking it might be a good idea to be able to have full depth available along the west side of the garage if ever I need to get something longer in the garage. I haven't actually measured the Whaler on the trailer with the outboard installed, so I have no idea whether I'd need the extra space or not. I do seem to think it'll be about 19' if I don't add a folding tongue to the trailer.
 

Max

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Here are my cabinets. Originally I thought to do white cabinets as I wanted to put car and motorcycle logos on them. But over time the white grew on me so I've held off on the artwork. Here are my main cabinets:

1759597237174.jpeg

You'll note the HF parts box rack for small part storage on the right side as well. :) The tops make a good place to stash longer pieces of hardwood as well. The cabinets are mix of some **** HD plywood and baltic birch. The HD stuff has warped on the doors - some just single warps, some have actually bowed. So when I get mad at a warped one it gets replaced with baltic birch. So far about half the doors have been replaced.

I also built a drawer unit in the same style. It's the first drawer unit I've made with flush fitting drawers:

1759597341247.jpeg
My shop is in a 2 car garage that's located adjacent to our basement. The previous owners had put a sink in there with really cheap and nasty cabinets. I got sick of them so I built these out of cherry:
1759597448270.jpeg

The finish was just 5-6 coats of tung oil which has held up well. The sink is super handy to have in the shop, and it also makes a great place to drain the dehumidifier.

Next up is likley a wide drawer unit to store offcuts to the right of the refrigerator.
 

Ohio Andy

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Columbus, Ohio
I start by trying to understand what I want to store in the cabinet or box. This determines what I use for things such as runners or drawer slides

I custom built the cabinet before to hold

CRAFTSMAN OVERDRIVE 284-Piece Gunmetal Chrome Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric Socket Set, with Hard Case (CMMT99284)​



The set comes with trays and it is designed to hold trays two deep. The drawers are a bit over 24" deep and use full extension slides with over travel so I can get to everything. This leaves me with three extra drawers.

1000004976.jpg

A simple box with "junk" chisels. I used this as one of my loaner or beater sets. Sent it to my nephew-in-law since his set was real junk. A better "beater" set is made by DeWalt, made in England and the back is much flatter than the Stanley chisels I was buying.

DeWalt DWHT16063 4-Piece Chrome Carbon-Steel Wood Chisel Set, Bi-Material Handle​


Won't bother showing you my user sets, much more expensive.

1000004977.jpg

This is a lot to take in... This is in my basement.

Left has things like screwdrivers, hangers, pliers, tapemeasure, saw sharpening tools... Bottom for drawers are full extension slides with overtravel. The top, the drawers pull out.

On the right, multiple portable chisel boxes. Below are two cabinets that can pull out of the metal shelf. Lots of sharpening supplies and things I won't bother itemizing.

I have another four or seven floor standing cabinets including one with furnace and other) filters.
1000004978.jpg
 
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duneslider

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Riverton, Utah
I started building my cabinets about 5 years ago, got all the boxes built, ordered drawer slides, put a top on the boxes, shoved all my **** into the boxes, including the box of drawer slides, and that is where I am at. I say every winter I'm gonna make time to build all the drawers. Maybe this winter...
 

Ohio Andy

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Columbus, Ohio
I started building my cabinets about 5 years ago, got all the boxes built, ordered drawer slides, put a top on the boxes, shoved all my **** into the boxes, including the box of drawer slides, and that is where I am at. I say every winter I'm gonna make time to build all the drawers. Maybe this winter...
How do you build your drawers?

Most of my drawers I have done using solid wood and hand cut dovetails. This takes a lot of time and is very rewarding. if you lack time and you want fast and you want to use solid wood, use something like:

MICROJIG FITFINDER 1/2 Gauge and (R9A) 3/4" Lock Miter Bit with Center Index (1/2" shank) Bundle

I bought mine from Woodcraft because it is close and easy



This last link contains a video.

The magic is that:
  1. Use the gauge to measure the board thickness. This gauge measure the 1/2 height position.
  2. The bit has a flat on it that set the center so using the gauge it is TRIVIAL to set the bit height.
  3. You set the distance from the board using a straight-edge (ruler) so that it aligns perfectly with the shank.
I pretty much nail it every time on my first try, and that includes my first time. Disadvantage?

  • a bit expensive (over $100).
  • You need a router table and it had better be easy to adjust the bit height.
  • You need a router fence (hopefully with dust collection).
  • You need to push the wood through flat a square. I use a larger board since you might have a long thin edge running against the fence.
  • One edge lays flat on the table (easy-ish) and one edge must be flat against the fence so the thin edge down (hard-ish).
  • Boards should be all the same thickness (and it almost always will be).
  • The boards had better have nice square cuts, but your drawers will be bad if they are not no matter how you build them.
  • I don't think that this will work with plywood.

So if you can figure out the "hard" parts, you can kick out a bunch of drawers really fast. I have even used this for boxes and small cabinets. I have only used this with solid wood. For plywood, I use pocket holes, but I also only work with 3/4" plywood. I have not tried 1/2" ply if you are thinking about drawers and pocket holes. In theory that should work, I have just never done it.

Right now I am struggling with a decision as to which method I should use. I cut 8 pieces of Walnut and I will build boxes for my "loaner" chisels. Historically I have used nice wood with hand cut dovetails. Right now I am low on time and would really like to just punch these out fast. I can probably prep the wood in under an hour with full setup and tear down in under an hour... or, I can spend a few nights cranking out hand cut dovetails. I am not fast with my hand cut dovetails, even though I have done a bunch of them.

I am not considering the time needed to cut a groove for my slide-on top that I intend to use. I want that groove before assembly. I guess I could do that on the router table after I build the box.... Never done it that way, maybe I will give that a try just for fun.
 

duneslider

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Jan 20, 2013
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Riverton, Utah
How do you build your drawers?

Most of my drawers I have done using solid wood and hand cut dovetails. This takes a lot of time and is very rewarding. if you lack time and you want fast and you want to use solid wood, use something like:

MICROJIG FITFINDER 1/2 Gauge and (R9A) 3/4" Lock Miter Bit with Center Index (1/2" shank) Bundle
I will be honest, I am going to hack job some 3/4" melamine drawers. So, just cut it all and assemble with confirmat screws. I worked for a school district a long time ago in the "carpenter/flooring" department and we used that method to make cabinets and drawers and they held up great and it was affordable. I do have a dovetail jig and if I was making nicer stuff for in the house I do that but for the garage I am going to be lucky if I ever make drawers at all. I am really hoping it happens this winter as the garage is getting unruly and I need to do something.

I have seen that locking miter bit before and wouldn't mind trying it sometime.
 

Ohio Andy

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I will be honest, I am going to hack job some 3/4" melamine drawers. So, just cut it all and assemble with confirmat screws. I worked for a school district a long time ago in the "carpenter/flooring" department and we used that method to make cabinets and drawers and they held up great and it was affordable. I do have a dovetail jig and if I was making nicer stuff for in the house I do that but for the garage I am going to be lucky if I ever make drawers at all. I am really hoping it happens this winter as the garage is getting unruly and I need to do something.

I have seen that locking miter bit before and wouldn't mind trying it sometime.
If you lived closer to the middle of Ohio, I could make that happen! :)

Nothing wrong with screws and glue, it gets the job done... And with Melamine you know it is flat! Well, it should be anyway.
 

rharman

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SoCal
If you lived closer to the middle of Ohio, I could make that happen! :)

Nothing wrong with screws and glue, it gets the job done... And with Melamine you know it is flat! Well, it should be anyway.
All four walls of our master closet are melamine - custom built when we remodeled. One of the big closet companies did all our closets in the house. We later modified this one area.

Those two sections used to be open shelving. Now, we have pantry type storage on the left, drawers, and two vertical sections of enclosed shelving. The open cubby above the drawers was sized to accommodate two nested laundry baskets. My wife designed it and we built it together.

We built the drawers from 3/4" melamine (sides, bottom, face) with biscuits, glue, and pocket screws. They've held up very well. Some carry a fair amount of weight. I did try to scuff up the mating surface a bit so I wasn't gluing direct to the melamine.


1763447029110.png1763446972578.png
 

Max

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Jun 16, 2018
Messages
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Georgia
Here are my cabinets. Originally I thought to do white cabinets as I wanted to put car and motorcycle logos on them. But over time the white grew on me so I've held off on the artwork. Here are my main cabinets:

1759597237174.jpeg

You'll note the HF parts box rack for small part storage on the right side as well. :) The tops make a good place to stash longer pieces of hardwood as well. The cabinets are mix of some **** HD plywood and baltic birch. The HD stuff has warped on the doors - some just single warps, some have actually bowed. So when I get mad at a warped one it gets replaced with baltic birch. So far about half the doors have been replaced.

I also built a drawer unit in the same style. It's the first drawer unit I've made with flush fitting drawers:

1759597341247.jpeg
My shop is in a 2 car garage that's located adjacent to our basement. The previous owners had put a sink in there with really cheap and nasty cabinets. I got sick of them so I built these out of cherry:
1759597448270.jpeg

The finish was just 5-6 coats of tung oil which has held up well. The sink is super handy to have in the shop, and it also makes a great place to drain the dehumidifier.

Next up is likley a wide drawer unit to store offcuts to the right of the refrigerator.

I had an offcut storage area that was quite a mess:
1766329890839.jpeg
So I built another cabinet to hold my smaller wood pieces:
1766329930684.jpeg
I still need to clean up a bit more, but it's most of the way there. I've since added labels as well so I know what type of wood is in each drawer.
 

Mike65

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Mar 7, 2007
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Horse Pasture, Va.
Here are two I made recently for my woodworking shop. The first one has a slide out shelf that has my framing Nailer & a box of nails on it. The drawer has accessories in the drawer. The other cabinet two of the drawers are for hand tools, my router kit & some more small stuff. I used HD full extension drawer & shelf slide so the drawers & the slide out shelf extend fully. Both have lockable wheels so they can be moved if needed.

100_0010.JPG

100_0009.JPG
 
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Aspen RT

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Jan 4, 2011
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kansas
Here are my cabinets. Originally I thought to do white cabinets as I wanted to put car and motorcycle logos on them. But over time the white grew on me so I've held off on the artwork. Here are my main cabinets:

1759597237174.jpeg

You'll note the HF parts box rack for small part storage on the right side as well. :) The tops make a good place to stash longer pieces of hardwood as well. The cabinets are mix of some **** HD plywood and baltic birch. The HD stuff has warped on the doors - some just single warps, some have actually bowed. So when I get mad at a warped one it gets replaced with baltic birch. So far about half the doors have been replaced.

I also built a drawer unit in the same style. It's the first drawer unit I've made with flush fitting drawers:


1759597341247.jpeg
That white looks amazing !!! Got a shot of the inside of the big cabinets ?
 

Max

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Georgia
That white looks amazing !!! Got a shot of the inside of the big cabinets ?
Thank you. The insides are pretty bland. And the less deep one is the most interesting as it holds a bunch of my tools:
1769095103227.jpeg
A close up of the tools:
1769095125833.jpeg
The deeper cabinets are mostly junk. This one is mostly electronic stuff, plus a bit of photographic and motorcycle equipment. I did do the middle split so I can put tripods in the right upper part.
1769095206714.jpeg
And this one is mostly just junk.
1769095279358.jpeg
 

Aspen RT

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Jan 4, 2011
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kansas
Thank you. The insides are pretty bland. And the less deep one is the most interesting as it holds a bunch of my tools:
1769095103227.jpeg
A close up of the tools:
1769095125833.jpeg
The deeper cabinets are mostly junk. This one is mostly electronic stuff, plus a bit of photographic and motorcycle equipment. I did do the middle split so I can put tripods in the right upper part.
1769095206714.jpeg
And this one is mostly just junk.
1769095279358.jpeg


Wow....those are super nice !!! Great job !!!!
 
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tarbellb

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Apr 17, 2011
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Oregon
Thank you. The insides are pretty bland. And the less deep one is the most interesting as it holds a bunch of my tools:
1769095103227.jpeg
A close up of the tools:

Nice cabinets, but you should mount your track saw rails(and all the flat layout tools) on the door. Then you can load up the interior and not bang them on the way out.
 
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gearhead1

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Oct 14, 2013
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NC
Wow, you guys are impressive. I can do anything mechanical, and rough framing, but if I‘m afraid if do cabinetry it‘ll look like a kindergartener did it. But you guys - outstanding!
 

Jgaz

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Dec 16, 2016
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AZ
Wow, you guys are impressive. I can do anything mechanical, and rough framing, but if I‘m afraid if do cabinetry it‘ll look like a kindergartener did it. But you guys - outstanding!
You might surprise yourself. Most of the cabinets you see are just basic boxes with add ons.
I can send you a PDF or two of “how to”.

Table saw, skill saw, (or track saw) and a pocket hole jig are about all you really need
 

gearhead1

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NC
You might surprise yourself. Most of the cabinets you see are just basic boxes with add ons.
I can send you a PDF or two of “how to”.

Table saw, skill saw, (or track saw) and a pocket hole jig are about all you really need
I have the tools: a table saw, skil saw, and pocket hole jig. Cabinet maker I am not! Please send whatever you have. Much appreciated.
 
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