mattblast
Well-known member
A beat up old sticker on a newly restored grinder makes it look bad. Many restorations require that the label be removed (and destroyed in the process) to repaint. When I restore a grinder I go all out - sandblast, paint, new bearings, replace cord, replace rubber feet, etc. I want my old grinders to have no problem lasting another 20 (or 40) years of heavy use before they look worn out.
Besides the old label my restorations look new.
Sometimes I need to remove the old label to sand and paint and sometimes the old label is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Here is a recent Baldor 3/4 HP from 1978 that I picked up for $200 a few months ago and is undergoing a restoration.
Solid grinder but it was heavily used and ready for a full restoration. This requires that I remove all the old stickers and sand blast it.
Here it is partially restored. Only new parts are the bolts to attach to the stand, the bolts to attach the polycarbonate sheets and the new labels. I still need to attach nameplate and switch cover which I ordered new from Baldor.
Baldor also sells the adhesive labels but they are overpriced in my opinion so I made them myself. And besides, Baldor won't sell the UL label.
These labels were drawn on the computer using the old label as a template. I scanned the old label in on the office copy machine then used vector based drawing tools to make a perfect replica. These labels are within 0.01" of original.
I print them on silver or white high performance adhesive vinyl using solvent inks then machine cut them to size (the cutter automatically rounds the corners). The hard part is creating the electronic version of the label. It can take an hour or two for complex ones. The printing and cutting take just a few minutes.
It's actually no more effort to print out 8 then I have a few extras in case I mess up.
These are unlaminated so they are damaged with alcohol based solvents but are water and light resistant. For more durable labels I add a high performance clear laminate prior to machine cutting. That does complicate the cutting process as the machine needs to re-orient the print origin but then the labels are impervious to chemicals.
Here's one I did for a craftsman grinder last year (this is the spare one that didn't end up getting used). This one took about 90 mins to draw.
And some for another machine I'm restoring
I use professional sign making software to do the layout (FlexiSIGN) which allows for fast and accurate drawing in vector format and can import and export EPS and PDF files.
All these labels (except the yellow/black ones) are extras that I don't need anymore. If you can use a any let me know and PM me your address and I'll send them.
I may regret saying this but I will also make any adhesive label for a grinder for free (at least until I get overwhelmed). If you need one post up a photo and I'll let you know of that is one I can make.
Besides the old label my restorations look new.
Sometimes I need to remove the old label to sand and paint and sometimes the old label is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Here is a recent Baldor 3/4 HP from 1978 that I picked up for $200 a few months ago and is undergoing a restoration.
Solid grinder but it was heavily used and ready for a full restoration. This requires that I remove all the old stickers and sand blast it.
Here it is partially restored. Only new parts are the bolts to attach to the stand, the bolts to attach the polycarbonate sheets and the new labels. I still need to attach nameplate and switch cover which I ordered new from Baldor.
Baldor also sells the adhesive labels but they are overpriced in my opinion so I made them myself. And besides, Baldor won't sell the UL label.
These labels were drawn on the computer using the old label as a template. I scanned the old label in on the office copy machine then used vector based drawing tools to make a perfect replica. These labels are within 0.01" of original.
I print them on silver or white high performance adhesive vinyl using solvent inks then machine cut them to size (the cutter automatically rounds the corners). The hard part is creating the electronic version of the label. It can take an hour or two for complex ones. The printing and cutting take just a few minutes.
It's actually no more effort to print out 8 then I have a few extras in case I mess up.
These are unlaminated so they are damaged with alcohol based solvents but are water and light resistant. For more durable labels I add a high performance clear laminate prior to machine cutting. That does complicate the cutting process as the machine needs to re-orient the print origin but then the labels are impervious to chemicals.
Here's one I did for a craftsman grinder last year (this is the spare one that didn't end up getting used). This one took about 90 mins to draw.
And some for another machine I'm restoring
I use professional sign making software to do the layout (FlexiSIGN) which allows for fast and accurate drawing in vector format and can import and export EPS and PDF files.
All these labels (except the yellow/black ones) are extras that I don't need anymore. If you can use a any let me know and PM me your address and I'll send them.
I may regret saying this but I will also make any adhesive label for a grinder for free (at least until I get overwhelmed). If you need one post up a photo and I'll let you know of that is one I can make.
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, I sent you a message. 
That is so much better, I'll send you my info 
