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Bernzomatic TS7000

trooper1954

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Nov 4, 2016
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197
Location
Salmon Arm, BC, Canada
Hi guys,
Have a 30 year old benzomatic TS7000 that has served me well....I dropped it the other day, and that resulted in the piaza self lighting wire breaking. I am not happy about throwing a perfectly good torch away, so am wondering if anyone has repaired this component in some way? The manufacturer does not sell replacement ignition systems...the torch will still work, but has to be manually lit.
the broken igniter wire can be seen in photo.
Thanks
 

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trooper1954

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Salmon Arm, BC, Canada
The Cobbler......thank you....this is almost exactly what I'm looking for except....the wire needs to be long enough to go from the igniter to the end of the nozzle.....think these are just a tad too short, and I don't think they can be joined?
 
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trooper1954

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The Cobbler....so I've actually found an igniter that may work.....on amazon.ca and exactly the same as you sent except wire is 19cm long.
I think this would work, but its a real pain to try and work out how to get the broken wire out of the nozzle....it seems held in there by some sort of circlip.
Anyhow....thanks and I'll keep working on it, Unfortunately I cant access the broken end of the wire to re-solder, but your saying if I could, they can be soldered together?

 

decableguy2000

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Nov 4, 2012
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647
Wire doesn't run all the way up. The igniter wire goes up thru the housing into bushing with a spring. The wire to the tip is in the tube and should be exposed at the bottom. That wire on the igniter looks to be the right length. We use these type torches at work for heat shrink tubing and I collect the broke and wore out ones to cobble spares together.
 
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trooper1954

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Location
Salmon Arm, BC, Canada
decableguy2000...thanks......so the wire tip that's exposed at the top of the flame tube is nothing to do with the igniter? If that's the case the cobbler's link would be the ones to get?
 
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decableguy2000

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20260517_212700.jpg

You can barely see a few stands of wire poking out the hole on the small brass tube. The wire from the igniter sits in with spring in the housing. I would take a pencil eraser or small wire brush and clean the brass portion of the igniter and where makes contact in the housing. If you put the igniter back in the housing and try to fire it with out gas and the tube on you should see or feel the arc if you have your thumb on the spring. I have never purchased any igniters always cannibalized old ones.
 

bonneyman

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Desert SW
I applaud you trying to save this old tool. I've had a self-lighting torch handle for years and just love it.

Then I found this old school torch. Uses a lighter flint for start up! (y)
 

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trooper1954

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20260517_212700.jpg

You can barely see a few stands of wire poking out the hole on the small brass tube. The wire from the igniter sits in with spring in the housing. I would take a pencil eraser or small wire brush and clean the brass portion of the igniter and where makes contact in the housing. If you put the igniter back in the housing and try to fire it with out gas and the tube on you should see or feel the arc if you have your thumb on the spring. I have never purchased any igniters always cannibalized old ones.
decableguy2000...thank you...I'm sorry but I'm still a little confused as to where exactly the igniter wire should go....the actual ignitor works and sparks but I'm sure it is broken....see length in photo.
Does an unbroken igniter wire go from the igniter housing to the very top of the burn tube as indicated by the black arrows, or just into the lower chamber? And is the wire supposed to go up inside the small brass tube? It seems too thick for this?
Thanks for the help so far.
20260517_212700.jpg

You can barely see a few stands of wire poking out the hole on the small brass tube. The wire from the igniter sits in with spring in the housing. I would take a pencil eraser or small wire brush and clean the brass portion of the igniter and where makes contact in the housing. If you put the igniter back in the housing and try to fire it with out gas and the tube on you should see or feel the arc if you have your thumb on the spring. I have never purchased any igniters always cannibalized old ones.
 

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decableguy2000

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The wire looks like the correct length. In the plastic bushing/cup behind the trigger lock should be a spring. The arc travels from the igniter to the spring to the wire in the little tube that runs to the tip. If you pull the bushing out, you'll see where wire pokes up.
 

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trooper1954

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Salmon Arm, BC, Canada
okay....I think I've got it. 20260518_181544.jpg .....I have two problems now. One is the spring in your photo is missin....must have taken off when I dropped the torch.
Second problem is...the silver button to the left of the orange line in your photo is held in place with a set screw.....it has to be removed I think in order for the black nob and spring to be re-inserted....there's a spring loaded button inside that needs to be depressed in order for the igniter and the black nob to be re-inserted......I have tried heat and deep creep penetrating oil to get the allen screw to loosen with no luck. Also, can you give me the dimensions of the spring, or where I might find one in the event I'm able to get that set screw loose?
Thanks for your patience :)
 

driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
Good luck with your repair. I'm 'old-school.'

20260217_114039.jpg


I have three of the above: one on my oxy/acetylene cart, one on a 'trench tank' of acetylene for plumbing, and a third for my probably 60 years old Bernz-O-Matic torch, requiring scritch-scritch to spark things up.

1779228750357.jpeg

I expect this open-sided box of flints should for me be a 'lifetime' supply, as I don't do a lot of soldering or using a gas-axe these days, and I'm in my mid-70's.

Sharp viewers may notice the crinkly blonde hairs on the flints box, freely-contributed by my Project Assistant.

20251003_162719.jpg

Here she is testing the water for proper chemical balance. And, is that a ghost dog she sees?
 
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