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aww ok you didnt specify regardless are you purposely touching an ungrounded phase and the grounded phase? i dont get it :dunno:

bigger can but it wont be quick...

so you shock yourself on a regular basis and dont die? that makes no sense and 240D isnt any more spicy than split phase 120/240 unless youre messing with the stinger leg. anyone who grabs the stinger leg and touches neutral or ground at the same time has whats coming to them.... still dont get...

wire size is based on nameplate HP NOT nameplate FLA.... Do you have 3Ø Delta? because skipping every 3rd breaker space indicates this And here's the junction box that's halfway down the run. This is where I was doing to potentially get power for my Bridgeport clone mill (single phase 230v or...

correct, have to read past 240.4(D) however the ampacity of NM-b doesnt change regardless if its feeding a motor. for 5HP, 35a rated wire is required. this means #10 THWN or #8 NM-b because #10 NM-b is limited to 30a

motor circuits are easy wire sized 125% of NEC FLC table amps (28a for 5HP as listed on nameplate not compressor label). This means 35a rated wire for 5hp disconnect needed if more than 50' from and not within sight of panel must be hardwired unless you can find plug and receptacle rated for...

youll be fried before it does

go for it. youll get fried... hope you have a defibrillator nearby 30ma is for equipment protection not life safety/personnel

could be a half switched receptacle... need to test both hot wires while removed from receptacle

if the lights in a garage are cord and plug connected, code requires them to be GFCI protected.

they do not. a GFCI can be installed without connection to an EGC the pathway for leakage current has nothing to do with what i said.

umm GFCIs dont care about the EGC. they work without them

if youre not worried about money, what are you waiting for? ask the OP for an address and head out there.... let us know how it goes

so you think youll get more money than the time money and labor spent to pull it out of the ground? who knows how easy it would even be to pull

6-8KW on a sub? ummm what model sub is this? and how are you connecting 3 amps together?

nope. no such failure mode would exist in a cheapo receptacle

that makes no sense at all. The OP stated they have 120v at the side terminals of the receptacle. that means its not an issue upstream and surely not a loose neutral.

probably deteriorated tangs on the side of the receptacle. i would just replace it

is it an equal waste of time and money to pull it out and get less money than the equivalent time value you spent pulling it out?

oh boy. another mandated money grab