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Is this a Good Contactor for a Pool Pump?

B

bad_idea

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I plan to control my 1HP pool pump with a Shelly Pro 2 and am having difficulty figuring out a good contactor to use. I would like a quality din rail mounted contactor. The pump is 120v, plan to control the shelly and the contactor both with that same 120v. Is this a good one to use: Schneider Electric - DPE25G7
 
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Norcal

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Skooterj said:
Not din rail, but I've used this one for 4 years on my pool pump controlled by a Sonoff.
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There are some who say DP stands for "Don't Purchase", that DP contactor is not a listed product so it is unwise to use it for anything other than replacement on listed equipment.
 
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jlv03

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DP = definite purpose.

Picture on Big Green website shows that contactor as UR, CE, RoHS, and CSA. Not sure what more listings you need, but seems better than the majority of “ETL” ones sprinkled on the online retailers.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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jlv03 said:
DP = definite purpose.

Picture on Big Green website shows that contactor as UR, CE, RoHS, and CSA. Not sure what more listings you need, but seems better than the majority of “ETL” ones sprinkled on the online retailers.
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ummm did you do any research here?

UR isnt a listing. its the voltage rating of the contactor.

CE means "Conformité Européenne", which is for european safety ratings (not applicable in the US)

RoHS is the "Restriction of Hazardous Substances", another European standard (and again not applicable in the US)

CSA stands for canadian standards association (can you guess if that is applicable in the US?)

NOT one of those is an NRTL listing for the US. so im not sure why youre calling them listings. youre incorrect

Ironically the one listing you did mention you seem to have an issue with- ETL, which is an NRTL listing by Intertek

www.intertek.com

ETL Listed Mark | Product Certification

As a recognized NRTL, Intertek offers flexible and efficient product testing and certification pathways through our ETL Certification program and our ETL Listed Mark, designed to help manufacturers bring products to market faster.
www.intertek.com www.intertek.com
 
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alfredeneuman

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ЯU :)
As far as I can tell from the literature it has a CE rating which, as Wiley said above, is not to be used in the US.
 
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J

jlv03

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wyliesdiesels said:
ummm did you do any research here?
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How much research do I need to do?

Norcal simply stated there was no listing for the contactor linked. It wasn't specified what listing they were needing, so my response was that the contactor does have a wide variety of standards listings, just not the one that may be expected for the US market.

My issue, if you will, with ETL isn't necessarily with it being a recognized standards listing, but that it is frequently touted on components/devices on Amazon even when that item does not have any testing/certification behind it. You can see the issue pop up from time to time in the reviews sections, where users report that there is nothing on the device at all or that the ETL listing crosses to a completely unrelated device.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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jlv03 said:
How much research do I need to do?

Norcal simply stated there was no listing for the contactor linked. It wasn't specified what listing they were needing, so my response was that the contactor does have a wide variety of standards listings, just not the one that may be expected for the US market.

My issue, if you will, with ETL isn't necessarily with it being a recognized standards listing, but that it is frequently touted on components/devices on Amazon even when that item does not have any testing/certification behind it. You can see the issue pop up from time to time in the reviews sections, where users report that there is nothing on the device at all or that the ETL listing crosses to a completely unrelated device.
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So dont buy parts from non-reputable brands.
 
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Skooterj

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Okay. So aside from it still working after 4 summers, cycling on and off daily for 4 months, what should I be using? I need something for 240V/30 Amps with a 120V coil. Not that I'm going to replace it until failure...
 
A

American Locomotive

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wyliesdiesels said:
I thought that was RU with a backwards R? not UR

www.ul.com

The UL Component Recognition Classification

Learn more about the UL Recognized Component Mark and wetting agent Classification and why they matter for code authorities.
www.ul.com www.ul.com
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It is, and this component has that "RU" rating.

Definite Purpose just means the contactor is designed to be used as part of a system, where the system's characteristics are well defined. General Purpose means you can use the contactor in any application, and it should hold up.

In practice, what it means is that the definite purpose contactors are built a little cheaper, but still "rated" for a certain load.
 
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mm08822

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Skooterj said:
Okay. So aside from it still working after 4 summers, cycling on and off daily for 4 months, what should I be using? I need something for 240V/30 Amps with a 120V coil. Not that I'm going to replace it until failure...
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You buy based upon motor hp not amps when used within a motor circuit. The one you listed is 2 hp @ 115v, 5hp @ 240v.

ETA: For the price listed @Menards, OP should buy this one ........ much cheaper.
 
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R

rlitman

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Skooterj said:
Okay. So aside from it still working after 4 summers, cycling on and off daily for 4 months, what should I be using? I need something for 240V/30 Amps with a 120V coil. Not that I'm going to replace it until failure...
Click to expand...
For a pool pump contactor cycling daily during a short season, definite purpose should last a LONG time, assuming it meets the horsepower requirements. Where you get into trouble with the cheaper hardware is with things like HVAC equipment that could be cycling a compressor several times an hour (or a well pump; you get the idea).

Also, you need to consider the risks of what happens if the contactor latches closed (a common failure mode). With a pool pump, it's not likely to break anything (though it may hit your electric bill if you don't notice for long). With a well pump or HVAC compressor, saving a few cents very well could destroy expensive hardware. In those situations, we inspect and replace contactors preventatively (or at the first signs of trouble).
 
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