Seduce me with your EMT runs...

VietGnome · May 9, 2026

I've pretty well settled on full metal interior and surface mounted EMT for my 30x40 stick build.

I'm planning to start small and just add circuits as required. I'm starting with

1. Outlets around the circumference, of the shop alternating on 2 circuits.

2. Outlets down the center of the ceiling switched for lights

3. Circuit with 2x Outdoor Floods and soffit lighting

4. 2x Outdoor outlets on a circuit.

I'm unsure if I want my garage door opener on a dedicated circuit since I plan to have a single outlet servicing 2x jackshaft openers. The 3rd door on the other side of the shop will probably just stay on a manual chain opener as it will seldom see use.

Regardless I'm trying to plan out some of these runs, and am looking for inspiration to keep it clean, simple, and have the ability to add all the circuits I need down the road without making it a cluttered mess. First debate is unsure if I want to run the EMT at outlet level, or like I've seen, run it near ceiling level and have drops going down to each outlet.

Basically just looking to see how all you surface mounters have done your shops, and looking for anything you wish you did differently, or tips for the process.

EDIT:
One question I'm unsure about is, how should I do the electrical for the few things I have outside (i.e. 2x floods, and 2x outlets)? Should I mount the boxes, etc, right away before I side/finish the interior, and stub EMT from the back of the boxes to the inside of the building? Then once the building is finished, continue the EMT run on the inside?

NostraThpmas · May 9, 2026

If you're planning to install wall cabinets, then consider running receptacles at counter height. In open areas I put my receptacles at 4+ feet above the floor to avoid blocking them when I lean sheet goods against the wall. Running EMT at ceiling level and using drops avoids all of the doors and windows and results in straighter, easier pulls.

VietGnome · May 9, 2026

NostraThpmas said:
If you're planning to install wall cabinets, then consider running receptacles at counter height. In open areas I put my receptacles at 4+ feet above the floor to avoid blocking them when I lean sheet goods against the wall. Running EMT at ceiling level and using drops avoids all of the doors and windows and results in straighter, easier pulls.

I was planning on running outlets at counter height along my back wall/work area, and normal height for the rest.

If I run normal height there's one 8x8 door I'd have to go around, but you're right that ceiling height would dodge it all. It would likely just be more of a PITA to install 12+ feet up opposed to ground level.

Tchicken · May 9, 2026

Signing on to pick up some knowledge that may have escaped me - planning on adding some emt circuitry in the garage

WildBill · May 9, 2026

I used double boxes for lights and left one side unswitched, has been really handy for extension cord reels and numerous random things.

VietGnome · May 9, 2026

WildBill said:
I used double boxes for lights and left one side unswitched, has been really handy for extension cord reels and numerous random things.

That is a much better idea than running a separate circuit for ceiling outlets at a later date!

mm08822 · May 9, 2026

Make 4 wall plans that could include obstructions for conduit. Even air lines can use the same thinking.

Horizontal runs for a line of recepts will be the least amount of material. Adding up/downs is more labor and materials.
Try and keep a free path above and below the horizontal line of recepts for future runs.

You could also leverage the ribs (raised) and the flats (valleys) where runs may cross for vertical drops.

Ceiling light outlets and exterior light fixtures probably make sense run up high in the corner of wall/ceiling.

Best thing is to plan on paper first. Erasing is easy.

The plan should also include where the panel goes. Don't shove it off in a corner that becomes a PIA to get to every time. You'll only run the feeder once, so what if it is 25' longer while making everything thereafter easier/closer.

Don't forget conduit can go below concrete between panel and outlet if it shortens runs.

VietGnome · May 9, 2026

mm08822 said:
Make 4 wall plans that could include obstructions for conduit. Even air lines can use the same thinking.

Horizontal runs for a line of recepts will be the least amount of material. Adding up/downs is more labor and materials.
Try and keep a free path above and below the horizontal line of recepts for future runs.

You could also leverage the ribs (raised) and the flats (valleys) where runs may cross for vertical drops.

Ceiling light outlets and exterior light fixtures probably make sense run up high in the corner of wall/ceiling.

Best thing is to plan on paper first. Erasing is easy.

The plan should also include where the panel goes. Don't shove it off in a corner that becomes a PIA to get to every time. You'll only run the feeder once, so what if it is 25' longer while making everything thereafter easier/closer.

Don't forget conduit can go below concrete between panel and outlet if it shortens runs.

This is pretty much my layout for initial electrical. I think the panel is in the best spot. I think best bet for lights/floods etc is to run straight up from the man door switch to the ceiling, then from there where it needs to go.

As for lights, I'm doing soffit lighting, so I'll need to stub EMT into the attic for that. For the floods I'm debating also stubbing that into the attic in the same run, and running a few PVC drops from the exterior fixtures into the attic.

Still undecided about running EMT for outlets ceiling or outlet height. I'll draw it out like you said and see how it looks. I'm thinking if I keep the outlet runs low, and it will give me lots of room high to run future circuits.

PCustoms · May 9, 2026

VietGnome said:
That is a much better idea than running a separate circuit for ceiling outlets at a later date!

Generally you want your lights on their own circuit

VietGnome · May 9, 2026

PCustoms said:
Generally you want your lights on their own circuit

Yeah my bad i worded that wrong. I was originally planning on running EMT and adding ceiling outlets later, but his idea of using the same run/boxes never dawned on me

LopezBart · May 9, 2026

PCustoms said:
Generally you want your lights on their own circuit

Having the lights go out when an overload/short occurs is definitely not a good plan....

PCustoms · May 9, 2026

LopezBart said:
Having the lights go out when an overload/short occurs is definitely not a good plan....

No, it's a PITA.

I did it a few weeks ago because I was too lazy to move the planner or get an extension cord. Got dark awfully fast...

rust in the eye · May 9, 2026

My only contribution is to agree with your thoughts for a dedicated circuit for the door operators. This allows you to easily disable them while away.

LopezBart · May 9, 2026

PCustoms said:
No, it's a PITA.

I did it a few weeks ago because I was too lazy to move the planner or get an extension cord. Got dark awfully fast...

Yup. Since emergency battery-backed lights are relatively inexpensive (some less than $30), I'm planning on adding a few to my shop so that when the power goes out when it's dark outside I can see any obstructions on my way to the man door.

PCustoms · May 9, 2026

LopezBart said:
Yup. Since emergency battery-backed lights are relatively inexpensive (some less than $30), I'm planning on adding a few to my shop so that when the power goes out when it's dark outside I can see any obstructions on my way to the man door.

Not a terrible idea.

With minimal windows I'd bet most of us would be fumbling thru the dark in an outage.

Luckily I have a few "courtesy" lights on a completely different circuit in the front of the shop, Soni could see enough to shut things off and go reset the breaker

drmarkr · May 9, 2026

LopezBart said:
Yup. Since emergency battery-backed lights are relatively inexpensive (some less than $30), I'm planning on adding a few to my shop so that when the power goes out when it's dark outside I can see any obstructions on my way to the man door.

You guys don't carry cell phones in your pocket or on your waist???

drmarkr · May 9, 2026

One quick comment to the op about his Jack shaft openers. All three of mine are on one circuit and switched with a single switch. I can turn it off before I leave on vacation and back on when I'm home

I will take several pictures of my layout when I get down to the shop later today and post them up.

VietGnome · May 9, 2026

drmarkr said:
One quick comment to the op about his Jack shaft openers. All three of mine are on one circuit and switched with a single switch. I can turn it off before I leave on vacation and back on when I'm home

I will take several pictures of my layout when I get down to the shop later today and post them up.

I've seen that mentioned here. Seems like a good idea, but would it also not be simple to just flip the breaker?
Also do your openers have a battery backup? The ones I've looked at do, and using either the switch or breaker I think I'd still have to climb up there, open it up, and disconnect the battery?

Lookin forward to the pictures

bluedog225 · May 9, 2026

As I get older, having plugs up higher on the wall helps.

drmarkr · May 9, 2026

VietGnome said:
I've seen that mentioned here. Seems like a good idea, but would it also not be simple to just flip the breaker?
Also do your openers have a battery backup? The ones I've looked at do, and using either the switch or breaker I think I'd still have to climb up there, open it up, and disconnect the battery?

Lookin forward to the pictures

This is a 4,000 square foot area and getting to the box behind the motorhome would be a chore. Placing this switch near the man door made things much easier.

No mine do not have battery backup.

jd_1138 · May 9, 2026

I thought this thread was about being taken to a hospital with a **** EMT in the ambulance.

3baygarage · May 9, 2026

jd_1138 said:
I thought this thread was about being taken to a hospital with a **** EMT in the ambulance.

My neighbor was an EMT. Some woman seduced him and he cheated. Might have been his coworker. Didn't have to run, wife threw him out. It ended their nice family of 4. He was a great neighbor. Never ever seen the guy again.

sparky 1971 · May 9, 2026

I wire a lot of shops, with most of them being pole barns. I do my best to run everything high and drop as needed; it takes a little more time and material, but keeps wall spaces open for benches, cabinets, and junk in general. My first option is to run everything at the top of the wall, but there are times that plan goes to hell when the overhead door hardware says nope, ain't gonna happen. Then running on the ceiling, but close to the walls comes into play. I've done enough that I no longer draw a picture of what I'm doing but wouldn't be afraid to do it again. The main thing is to set everything up so there are no conduits being crossed because it looks like **** when that happens. I also put a gutter about six inches above the panel when using a load center; the knockouts in the panel don't line up and require everything to have an offset right from the start and once again, it looks like ****. A few six inch ******* from the panel to the gutter don't need anything and the the conduit can then be fanned out across the top of the gutter, keeping everything the same. You can also then run a circuit two directions through two different conduits and splice them in the gutter, leaving the wire nuts out of the panel. Another thing: nothing smaller than 3/4 leaves the panel or gutter; 1/2 is for drops, you can thank me later for that.

WildBill · May 9, 2026

sparky 1971 said:
I wire a lot of shops, with most of them being pole barns. I do my best to run everything high and drop as needed; it takes a little more time and material, but keeps wall spaces open for benches, cabinets, and junk in general. My first option is to run everything at the top of the wall, but there are times that plan goes to hell when the overhead door hardware says nope, ain't gonna happen. Then running on the ceiling, but close to the walls comes into play. I've done enough that I no longer draw a picture of what I'm doing but wouldn't be afraid to do it again. The main thing is to set everything up so there are no conduits being crossed because it looks like **** when that happens. I also put a gutter about six inches above the panel when using a load center; the knockouts in the panel don't line up and require everything to have an offset right from the start and once again, it looks like ****. A few six inch ******* from the panel to the gutter don't need anything and the the conduit can then be fanned out across the top of the gutter, keeping everything the same. You can also then run a circuit two directions through two different conduits and splice them in the gutter, leaving the wire nuts out of the panel. Another thing: nothing smaller than 3/4 leaves the panel or gutter; 1/2 is for drops, you can thank me later for that.

I ran all my EMT along the top of the wall and drop down as needed, has worked out nice.

WildBill · May 9, 2026

3baygarage said:
My neighbor was an EMT. Some woman seduced him and he cheated. Might have been his coworker. Didn't have to run, wife threw him out. It ended their nice family of 4. He was a great neighbor. Never ever seen the guy again.

That is a funny way to blame the women instead of the guy who destroyed his own family by being a complete jackass.

SouthernIllinois · May 9, 2026

mike93lx · May 9, 2026

I know, pretty sweet, eh? I did that all by myself, completely unsupervised

wyliesdiesels · May 9, 2026

PCustoms said:
No, it's a PITA.

I did it a few weeks ago because I was too lazy to move the planner or get an extension cord. Got dark awfully fast...

tis why i carry 2 flashlights with me always

wyliesdiesels · May 9, 2026

are you wanting pics?

twinfin · May 9, 2026

Here’s my meager contribution. It’s a very small project where I brought off-grid power to my 400 square foot garage built to house a recreational vehicle but it does show the diversity of options limited only to the imagination.

Since I only wanted to power occasional lighting and the garage door opener and I’m nowhere near a source of electricity, I picked up an EcoFlow 2,000 watt inverter and plugged it into a simple wall mounted metal conduit bringing power to the door opener and the two lights it controls. A small solar array outside provides power to keep the EcoFlow charged up.

I threw in an extra outlet while I was at it and painted everything because why not? When was the last time you saw painted conduit? Overboard? Perhaps, but sometimes, I get carried away in the moment.

Here’s some pic’s…

The EcoFlow with earthquake ******** a custom pedestal. It plugs into the wall conduit system with a short, 3’ extension cord. Forgive the missing piece of trim between the two wall-paint colors; I‘m still finishing up that task.

The male wall plug to receive power from the EcoFlow

The side mounted door opener and one of two lights. The conduit continues up and then across the top of the garage door to a light on the other side of the garage.

The conduit terminates at this outlet bringing power to the second light. Both lights are mounted on a pedestal that angles the beam downward to the floor where light is mostly needed (The walls are 12’ tall).

It’s a very simple yet elegant power solution for an off-grid garage where electrical needs are minimal. Now I just have to figure out what kind of treatment to give the garage floor…any suggestions?

LopezBart · May 9, 2026

drmarkr said:
You guys don't carry cell phones in your pocket or on your waist???

Most of the time... but sometimes not, or it may have run out of battery again.

VietGnome · May 10, 2026

SouthernIllinois said:
snip

Looks great, exactly what i was looking for. What are your boxes mounted to? Do you have blocking/strapping behind? or are you just fastening to the metal panel?

VietGnome · May 10, 2026

I haven't done the ceiling runs yet, but this what I'm thinking about the wall runs.

LEFT WALL:

REAR WALL:

RIGHT WALL:

Obviously it's not a 100% plan, exact placement will depend on how the R-Panel lays, etc, but it's a pretty good solution for general runs.

Outlet runs are high enough to be out of the way/allow drops, but has room above for future circuits. Still undecided if I want the right wall outlets to be around 48" high, or low as I have them, but easy enough to change.

The two outlets under the window are going to be on their own dedicated circuit for fridge/freezers.

Conduit flowing over the man door and down is to junction boxes, and from there I'll stub straight out through the wall to outdoor outlets. I'm unsure how to get power to the outlet I have below the switches without it being jank/a **** show, so I'm considering just putting an indoor outlet in the 4x4 box left of the man door and having it on the same circuit as the 2 outdoor outlets.

Hammer me with criticism and questions please.

How is everyone attaching surface mounted boxes? Since it's stud frame, I was planning on attaching the R-Panel with screws into the bottom plate, top plate, and the 2 rows of blocking that you can see in the left wall (forgot to turn that layer on for rear and right wall). So I wasn't planning on furring like you see in pole barn builds. Can the boxes be attached to just the metal? Or should I plan for blocking in all the stud bays where boxes are going to go?

SouthernIllinois · May 10, 2026

VietGnome said:
Looks great, exactly what i was looking for. What are your boxes mounted to? Do you have blocking/strapping behind? or are you just fastening to the metal panel?

Purlins and blocking.

I went through the building before the interior metal was up and put in blocking for air lines, electrical, lights, tube heater, garage door openers, garage door tracks and anything I planned to mount on the wall or ceiling that didn’t fall on a purlin or rafter.

VietGnome · May 10, 2026

SouthernIllinois said:
Purlins and blocking.

I went through the building before the interior metal was up and put in blocking for air lines, electrical, lights, tube heater, garage door opener, garage door tracks and anything I planned to mount on the wall or ceiling that didn’t fall on a purloin or rafter.

That's what I thought. I might just run a ton of 2x4 in the ceiling like you have. Unsure if I want to install rows of blocking in my studs, as that will make insulation more of a PITA/more loss of insulation factor. Or if I should just run a ton of 1by strapping ontop of the studs like a pole barn and attach steel onto that.

SouthernIllinois · May 10, 2026

VietGnome said:
That's what I thought. I might just run a ton of 2x4 in the ceiling like you have. Unsure if I want to install rows of blocking in my studs, as that will make insulation more of a PITA/more loss of insulation factor. Or if I should just run a ton of 1by strapping ontop of the studs like a pole barn and attach steel onto that.

The purlins and interior metal were installed by the builder - that was part of the package I bought. For the EMT I largely ran it “over” the purlins behind the metal out of convenience.

I did forget blocking for the wall fans so I ran unistrut between purlins and mounted them to that.

Murphys laws says you are going to forget something or change your mind.

Here is an example. I put blocking between the windows to raise this one outlet box a few inches higher than the purlin because I planned to put that tool box between the windows. As it turned out, I put the box under a window and now I have this one box that is a few inches higher than the ones on either side. Drives me crazy!

Lassen Forge · May 10, 2026

Conduit bending is a skillset I wish I learned - unfortunately here everything is run through plastic flex conduit - usually because it's buried in concrete. The sad part is because most no one has an eye for that here (because it's all hidden) so you don't see the artistry you have back there...

beta&t=RSc9yQU1JOsstUT3rh3kneyvS_IJQfvCTyLdJk0PA5k.jpg

(Disclaimer - Not my work, reminds me of some of the bridge infrastructure we used to have, tho!)

VietGnome · May 10, 2026

SouthernIllinois said:
The purlins and interior metal were installed by the builder - that was part of the package I bought. For the EMT I largely ran it “over” the purlins behind the metal out of convenience.

I did forget blocking for the wall fans so I ran unistrut between purlins and mounted them to that.

Murphys laws says you are going to forget something or change your mind.

Here is an example. I put blocking between the windows to raise this one outlet box a few inches higher than the purlin because I planned to put that tool box between the windows. As it turned out, I put the box under a window and now I have this one box that is a few inches higher than the ones on either side. Drives me crazy!

Fair point. I'm doing the interior entirely myself, and it's looking like a buddy (electrician) and myself are going to do the electrical.

Looks like I have to play around with the switch layout as I'm right to the nose of max fill in 1, and just over in another. Back to the drawing board.

35Ford · May 10, 2026

I'd mount all the boxes high. I don't see the need to bend down to plug something in. I'd also eliminate at least half of the plugs shown on the diagram. Maybe install the boxes in the run near the ceiling but skip every other drop until you find a need for it. I have three plugs on a 36' wall, two on a 28' and have never felt the need for more. Except for a few stationary tools, it seems all I ever plug in is a shop vac. Everything else is battery. Not to criticize OP or anyone's layout, but for me, too many plugs is a waste of time and material and looks cluttered and not well thought out.

VietGnome · May 10, 2026

35Ford said:
I'd mount all the boxes high. I don't see the need to bend down to plug something in. I'd also eliminate at least half of the plugs shown on the diagram. Maybe install the boxes in the run near the ceiling but skip every other drop until you find a need for it. I have three plugs on a 36' wall, two on a 28' and have never felt the need for more. Except for a few stationary tools, it seems all I ever plug in is a shop vac. Everything else is battery. Not to criticize OP or anyone's layout, but for me, too many plugs is a waste of time and material and looks cluttered and not well thought out.

I definitely forgot to mention.

All the outlets will be a single duplex in a 4x4 box. The double duplex was the only model I could find in sketchup. If that changes anything?

I don't know how I'm going to lay out the back wall of my shop yet, and that's going to be the working area, and everyone has always preached they can't have enough outlets. Figured I'd appreciate the flexibility for tools, chargers, task lighting, etc.

Though I can drop a couple outlets on the right wall for sure. I like your idea of keeping the overhead boxes to add later.

I'm here for the criticism, it'll make it better in the end.

Seduce me with your EMT runs...

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