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Can someone check my wiring in a sub-panel?

weatherby460

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The feed comes from the house. This is in a shed. I believe the grounds and neutrals should be separated. Is the larger black cable/yellow stripe on the left the neutral side (green screw show's it's bonded), and the bar on the right meant for the bare wire grounds (no green bonded screw present)? Thanks1000005505.jpg
 
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OP
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weatherby460

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Southern WI
I want to clean this up myself. If I understand:
Right side are grounds, left side is neutrals.
1. On the left, remove the green bonding screw and put all "white wires" on that bar. Left side has the large black cable with yellow stripe.
2. On the right side, move all bare wires to the bar on the right side. This side has a large bare copper wire connected to that bar on the bottom. I assume that goes to the grounding rod. Does this side need to be bonded to the case...aka...add a green screw?
 

Model A Fan

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I don't know anything about Australian code. Sorry.

But in all honesty, you would do well to tidy up the Romex coming into the box and running each wire (ground, hot, neutral) in a tidy manner so it is less difficult to look at/decipher the more you work in this box.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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both those bars are neutrals (notice the plastic standoffs?)

I would leave them alone so you have a neutral bar on each side to keep wiring tidy

you would then purchase 2 listed ground bars for the panel and remove the bond jumper on the left side

you will also need to run an EGC between the feeding panel and this panel. terminate it on one of the new ground bars

Does this panel have ground rods? I see stranded bare #4 or #2
 
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gagecalman

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OP needs to find a way to run a 4th wire between panels before he thinks about cleaning up the wiring inside the panel.
 

theoldwizard1

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Referring to this image in the FAQ

1215778178-ground-rod-not-4-wire-subpanel-detached-jpg.2278503
Screenshot 2026-04-29 181119.png

both those bars are neutrals (notice the plastic standoffs?)
First, the neutrals and grounds are on the wrong sides ! Who cares if they have plastic standoffs if only one is bond to the enclosure ?

OR

Is that black "strap" in this picture connecting the two of them together ?
you will also need 2 run an EGC between the feeding panel and this panel.
I ASSUME the "2" means "to", correct ?
 

mm08822

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Referring to this image in the FAQ

1215778178-ground-rod-not-4-wire-subpanel-detached-jpg.2278503
Screenshot 2026-04-29 181119.png


First, the neutrals and grounds are on the wrong sides ! Who cares if they have plastic standoffs if only one is bond to the enclosure ?

OR

Is that black "strap" in this picture connecting the two of them together ?

I ASSUME the "2" means "to", correct ?
The black strap is an insulated jumper connecting both insulated neutral blocks together. As it is configured now, there aren't dedicated ground bars.

The advice was to add 2 grd bars and leave the existing neutral bars as is (with clean up).
 

sparky 1971

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This is a long shot but if it was installed prior to the adoption of the 2008 NEC, it's fine as is as long as there are ground rods. I have no idea what edition Wisconsin was on 10 years ago (probably 2014) but it wasn't that long ago someone on here was building a garage and I think wherever he was they were still on the '02.
 

Model A Fan

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This is a long shot but if it was installed prior to the adoption of the 2008 NEC, it's fine as is as long as there are ground rods. I have no idea what edition Wisconsin was on 10 years ago (probably 2014) but it wasn't that long ago someone on here was building a garage and I think wherever he was they were still on the '02.
If it was permitted, I'm guessing you can look it up by permit? In the county where I live, you can view any permit for your property that was pulled for work. That may tell you when it was installed at least...
 
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sparky 1971

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If it was permitted, I'm guessing you can look it up by permit? In the county where I live, you can view any permit for your property that was pulled for work. That may tell you when it was installed at least...
He already said it was installed 10 years ago in post #13. When wouldn't matter without know which edition of the code was being used then. Some permits might give that information, but the permits I pull don't, it's just something we are supposed to know. My guess is that in 2016 they were on the 2014 or maybe still the 2011. The odds of being on the 2005 or older (prior to the 2008) in the year 2016 are pretty slim, that's why I said it's a long shot.
 

PCustoms

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He already said it was installed 10 years ago in post #13. When wouldn't matter without know which edition of the code was being used then. Some permits might give that information, but the permits I pull don't, it's just something we are supposed to know. My guess is that in 2016 they were on the 2014 or maybe still the 2011. The odds of being on the 2005 or older (prior to the 2008) in the year 2016 are pretty slim, that's why I said it's a long shot.

This is where I was going when I asked when it was installed.

If it was 10yrs ago, in 2016, WI appears to have been on 2011 NEC
 

T444e

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In my digging for electrical I plan I doing, it appears WI runs two cycles behind. Not that I plan on pulling a permit...
 

PCustoms

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And there might not have been a permit at all and the old timer that did the install did it the same way he's been doing it since 1964 when he started.

Yep

I'll probably get roasted for this, but here's how I look at it. It was permissible per code in Wisconsin until 2010, theoretically it will be perfectly fine today if it had been installed just 6 years earlier.

It's been this way for 10 plus years, as long as it's correct to how a three wire detached feed should be (I think it is, but don't quote me) I would just leave it as is.
 
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sparky 1971

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Yep

I'll probably get roasted for this, but here's how I look at it. It was permissible per code in Wisconsin until 2010, theoretically it will be perfectly fine today if it had been installed just 6 years earlier.

It's been this way for 10 plus years, as long as it's correct to how a three wire detached feed should be (I think it is, but don't quote me) I would just leave it as is.
I agree. There are more outbuildings with three wire feeds out there than there are four wire feeds. Adding the equipment ground would probably be way more work than it's worth even though it's technically not right.
 
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MovingAlong

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Neutral and ground bond together at the main panel, nowhere else.

The subpanel box should be bonded to the ground bar and return to the main panel. Neutral bar should only have neutral wires (don't bond the box to neutral) and return to the main panel.

As for wire size, that's dependent on a few different factors: distance, desired amps, allowable voltage drop, copper vs aluminum, etc..

If you're determined to DIY, be sure to review the NEC/NFPA 70 code online for free. You'll need to setup an account for personal use...

1777511110700.png

And @Chuckster in NJ is giving you good advice too - call a licensed electrician. It's money well spent.
 

sparky 1971

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Do i still need to split the grounds and neutral?
NO! You can only do that if there is a separate ground wire pulled back to the main panel. There won't be anything to carry fault current causing a breaker to trip. The intent of the ground rods is to shunt lighting; while they may be capable of clearing a short, they can't be trusted to do so.
 

PCustoms

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3-wire feeder VS 4-wire feeder

First topic for this sticky is one that is beat to death :deadhorse every weak- the 3-wire vs 4-wire branch feeder.

The following pics are here to help those who are visual learners.

3-wire feeders to detached structures that had no other parallel metallic pathways(eg. conduit, water and gas piping, communication cabling, etc.) were allowed up until the 2008 NEC code cycle.

From then on, 4-wire feeders have been required.

4-wire feeders to panels in attached structures have always been required.

3-wire feeder to DETACHED building(no longer allowed as of 2008; existing feeders are grandfathered in as long as there are no parallel metallic pathways between the buildings):

1961d1199122156-detached-garage-sub-panel-grounding-q-3-wire-feeder-detached.jpg
 

Chuckster in NJ

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In the 1990’s when I saw a "cluster f" like the OP has it was always "my buddy has a friend who is a union electrician help me with this work"

In the early 2000’s the excuse is "I got help from the internet"

Nowadays it is: "the experts on the Garage Journal told me how to do the work AND they were so knowledgeable they did NOT even see the job in person"

Giving well intended repair advice on a "cluster f job" like this could prove to be hazardous…….. This is why I suggest to call a pro.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Referring to this image in the FAQ

1215778178-ground-rod-not-4-wire-subpanel-detached-jpg.2278503
Screenshot 2026-04-29 181119.png


First, the neutrals and grounds are on the wrong sides ! Who cares if they have plastic standoffs if only one is bond to the enclosure ?

OR

Is that black "strap" in this picture connecting the two of them together ?

I ASSUME the "2" means "to", correct ?

Just stop while youre ahead and let the pros guide the discussion

Both of those bars are neutral bars. The plastic standoffs and the tie bar indicate this

Why is there a bonding strap going to the left bar you ask? Because its suitable for use as service equipment

Panels NEVER come with ground bars. Why? I have no clue but you always have to buy them separate

And yes that was a typo. It has been fixed
 

wyliesdiesels

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This is a long shot but if it was installed prior to the adoption of the 2008 NEC, it's fine as is as long as there are ground rods. I have no idea what edition Wisconsin was on 10 years ago (probably 2014) but it wasn't that long ago someone on here was building a garage and I think wherever he was they were still on the '02.
OP said it was installed 10yrs ago so that wont fly
 

purplezr2

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Central MN
both those bars are neutrals (notice the plastic standoffs?)

I would leave them alone so you have a neutral bar on each side to keep wiring tidy

you would then purchase 2 listed ground bars for the panel and remove the bond jumper on the left side

you will also need to run an EGC between the feeding panel and this panel. terminate it on one of the new ground bars

Does this panel have ground rods? I see stranded bare #4 or #2

Curious why 2 and not a single one?

In my subs(I have two), I have put a single bar at the bottom with a lug added for the feeder ground wire(ground wire in the 4 wire feeder)
 
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