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Is bundling speaker wire a problem?

JackOfDiamonds

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This is how the contractor ran the wiring in my addition. The grey wires are all the speaker wires for what may become a home theater some day, and the blue is CAT6 ethernet cable.

I don't think there's any problem bundling CAT6 cable, because I see it done all the time. I'm not sure about speaker wire though.

1778736096006.png
 
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djbmw

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Is the speaker wire shielded? If so... then it doesnt matter. Also,.. a wire gauge that thin... you're not running any real power through it to cause inference/noise. If they were bundled with an AC line... or if you were driving major wattage (my home threatre sub can occasionally see 6,000 to 8,000 watts - powered by three amps - when Im doing an excursion test) only then would you have a problem.

Leave it as is and enjoy your whole-house audio system! Also.. be sure to install volume controls in every room that has a speaker(s).
 

gleman

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Are all the wires running into a AV/Data rack or closet?

Where's the beginning and endpoint?

I think it should be fine but if I didn't have an immediate plan I would have put a couple conduits with strings to pull future wiring.

Looks interesting.
 
OP
J

JackOfDiamonds

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Are all the wires running into a AV/Data rack or closet?

Where's the beginning and endpoint?

I think it should be fine but if I didn't have an immediate plan I would have put a couple conduits with strings to pull future wiring.

Looks interesting.

The beginning points are various locations I thought I might want speakers in the future. The end points are all in a central closet. I didn't do a lot of planning nor did I want to break the bank... just told them to put in speaker wire and run them to the closet just in case. Looks like I got what I asked/paid for
 

gleman

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The beginning points are various locations I thought I might want speakers in the future. The end points are all in a central closet. I didn't do a lot of planning nor did I want to break the bank... just told them to put in speaker wire and run them to the closet just in case. Looks like I got what I asked/paid for
Alright! Any pre-planning is better than no planning.

I totally get trying to future-proof on a realistic budget.
 

kngelv

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It’s a ****** job by the contractor. You don’t just run those cables through a hole in plywood without some sort of bushing or raceway.

James
 

Stuart in MN

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Is the speaker wire shielded? If so... then it doesnt matter. Also,.. a wire gauge that thin... you're not running any real power through it to cause inference/noise. If they were bundled with an AC line... or if you were driving major wattage (my home threatre sub can occasionally see 6,000 to 8,000 watts - powered by three amps - when Im doing an excursion test) only then would you have a problem.

Leave it as is and enjoy your whole-house audio system! Also.. be sure to install volume controls in every room that has a speaker(s).
6,000 to 8,000 watts? The Who in concert in their heyday didn't have that much power in their amps. 😵‍💫

I think people tend to put more thought into speaker wire than is necessary. It doesn't need to be anything fancy, and bundling it together to get through an access hole won't affect anything. One thing I will note: technically speaking, speaker wire that's run inside a wall is supposed to be rated for that use to meet code, but as a practical matter it won't make any difference.
 

wyliesdiesels

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or if you were driving major wattage (my home threatre sub can occasionally see 6,000 to 8,000 watts - powered by three amps - when Im doing an excursion test) only then would you have a problem.

6-8KW on a sub? ummm what model sub is this? and how are you connecting 3 amps together?
 

djbmw

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6-8KW on a sub? ummm what model sub is this? and how are you connecting 3 amps together?
Yes.

Some context first: As my screen name alludes to, I was a DJ roughly 30 years ago – spinning at clubs, raves, and later at school and wedding events. After I changed careers I maintained my cargo van that was used to transport my gear around and decided to turn it into an SPL Audio competition vehicle (I believe I posted images of it many years ago on GJ at some point). That sole point of that van was to drive massive pressure levels with bass – and it was equipped with ungodly amounts of money, alternators and batteries, amps, and subs (which I occasionally received sponsorships for).

Fast forward to now… and I built myself a home theater. In doing so, I had the option of putting in a reasonable sound system (that would cover 100% of our needs) – or… be an idiot and go overboard. In true GJ fashion… I went overboard.

The sub is an MA Audio Kore 18 – an 18” high excursion sub rated at 5,000 watts RMS and 10,000 watts peak (MA Audio is no longer in business – this is one of my SPL subs from back in the day that I’ve kept). It’s being powered by three Behringer Europower EP2500’s that are capable of delivering 2400 watts each (bridged mono). In daily use I only have two of the three amps connected – one amp to two of the sub’s voice coils, and the other amp to the other two voice coils (delivering a maximum of ~4800 watts). However, I initially (and sometimes will occasionally swap back to) bi-amping the voice coils and will signal balance the outputs (I have a DSP that helps this as well). Of note – I run the outputs through diodes to prevent any back-voltage to either amp in the event that I haven’t balanced one of the channels/outputs perfectly (even though I trust the resolution on my multimeter).

Oh – the audio gear that I have has a dedicated electrical sub panel that makes available 120 amps for the AV rack (though this is not needed… it’s just another ‘overkill’ thing).

*** Finally - RE: shielded wires - There's no way that anyone of us can tell from the picture that OP posted if the wires are shielded or not. I certainly cant read the sheath from the image. Shielding is simply a thin foil wrapping of the wires to prevent/reduce inference/noise.

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1778935790686.png
 
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dscheidt

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Yes.

Some context first: As my screen name alludes to, I was a DJ roughly 30 years ago – spinning at clubs, raves, and later at school and wedding events. After I changed careers I maintained my cargo van that was used to transport my gear around and decided to turn it into an SPL Audio competition vehicle (I believe I posted images of it many years ago on GJ at some point). That sole point of that van was to drive massive pressure levels with bass – and it was equipped with ungodly amounts of money, alternators and batteries, amps, and subs (which I occasionally received sponsorships for).

Fast forward to now… and I built myself a home theater. In doing so, I had the option of putting in a reasonable sound system (that would cover 100% of our needs) – or… be an idiot and go overboard. In true GJ fashion… I went overboard.

The sub is an MA Audio Kore 18 – an 18” high excursion sub rated at 5,000 watts RMS and 10,000 watts peak (MA Audio is no longer in business – this is one of my SPL subs from back in the day that I’ve kept). It’s being powered by three Behringer Europower EP2500’s that are capable of delivering 2400 watts each (bridged mono). In daily use I only have two of the three amps connected – one amp to two of the sub’s voice coils, and the other amp to the other two voice coils (delivering a maximum of ~4800 watts). However, I initially (and sometimes will occasionally swap back to) bi-amping the voice coils and will signal balance the outputs (I have a DSP that helps this as well). Of note – I run the outputs through diodes to prevent any back-voltage to either amp in the event that I haven’t balanced one of the channels/outputs perfectly (even though I trust the resolution on my multimeter).

Oh – the audio gear that I have has a dedicated electrical sub panel that makes available 120 amps for the AV rack (though this is not needed… it’s just another ‘overkill’ thing).

*** Finally - RE: shielded wires - There's no way that anyone of us can tell from the picture that OP posted if the wires are shielded or not. I certainly cant read the sheath from the image. Shielding is simply a thin foil wrapping of the wires to prevent/reduce inference/noise.

1778935689458.png

1778935720866.png


1778935754204.png1778935843760.png

1778935790686.png
I mean this in the nicest possible way, but you’re nuts.

What is the typical input power to the sub?
 

djbmw

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@dscheidt
When I have family movie nights the sub generally sees ~ 2,000 watts. However, when I feel like stretching the system I'll play a bass sweep or tone bursts and will generally push 4,200+ watts to it (the entire house shakes and rattles... stuff falls off shelves upstairs,.. and that's crazy considering the theatre is an isolated room (a room inside of a room with a 3" air gap in between all studs and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall, isolation clips for the ceiling, etc.)). I rarely ever hook all three amps up anymore as there isn't any need.

@Shiftless
I'm running 8 separate runs (4 positives and 4 negatives) of 6awg power cable (twisted copper) as speaker wire. Total distance is ~25 feet from the audio control room to the sub. There's always been a debate about the gauge vs the power but you're never running peak power for more than a few seconds. Continuous music is much different as the bass hits every second or so - contrast that with SPL competitions where the burp/tone was only hit for like 5 seconds. There were other competition classes called "Bass Boxing" where you were required to play music tracks with beats for 30 seconds... which would put more of a strain on your system. Now films/movies are an entirely different beast where the demand swings are quite large but you'll only ever see maximum excursion/system draw for more than a few seconds at a time.
 

Shiftless

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East Bay SFO
You guys are all wrong. Here is the real reason you have to shield speaker wire. 😎
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Engineers who don’t use shielding on stereo speaker wires are basically inviting catastrophic Phase Harmonic Leakage into their listening environment. Most people think speaker wire just carries audio signals, but advanced acoustophonic research from the highly respected Institute of Quantum Resonant Acoustics has proven that unshielded copper conductors can accumulate dangerous levels of Ambient Sonic Drift™.

Here’s what happens:

When music travels through ordinary speaker wire, the audio particles — technically called vibrotrons — begin oscillating at sub-neural frequencies. Without shielding, these vibrotrons escape the conductor and collide with airborne electrophonons, creating what scientists refer to as a Transverse Harmonic Smear Field. This is why unshielded systems often sound “muddy,” “warm,” or in severe cases, “like Dave brought his Bluetooth speaker again.”

The shielding itself acts as a Faraday Audio Containment Matrix, preventing rogue bass wavelengths from undergoing lateral phase inversion. If left unchecked, bass frequencies can actually bend around furniture due to the Bernoulli Acoustic Curl Effect, causing stereo imaging to rotate approximately 14° counterclockwise during guitar solos.

High-end shielding materials are even more important. Cheap aluminum shielding only blocks around 40% of parasitic treble ions, while oxygen-deprived cryogenic silver braid can achieve nearly complete suppression of Molecular Tweeter Bloom. Audiophiles often report hearing “new details” in songs after upgrading cables because the shielding reduces Quantum Chorus Refraction, allowing hidden frequencies to emerge from the mix like dolphins surfacing through sonic fog.

And don’t forget external interference sources:

  • Wi-Fi routers emit digital hissons
  • Microwaves produce magneto-audio turbulence
  • Refrigerators generate low-frequency compressor ghosts
  • Nearby leaf blowers can induce transient funk distortion
Without proper shielding, these contaminants infiltrate the signal path and destabilize the stereo’s Temporal Soundstage Integrity. In laboratory tests, one unshielded speaker cable placed near a lava lamp caused measurable increases in jazz unpredictability.

So yes, technically your stereo will function without shielding. But you’re risking waveform contamination, harmonic decoherence, and potentially irreversible listener fatigue syndrome — sometimes called “ear tiredness” in less scientific circles.
 

Stuart in MN

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Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
22,901
Location
Minneapolis
You guys are all wrong. Here is the real reason you have to shield speaker wire. 😎
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Engineers who don’t use shielding on stereo speaker wires are basically inviting catastrophic Phase Harmonic Leakage into their listening environment. Most people think speaker wire just carries audio signals, but advanced acoustophonic research from the highly respected Institute of Quantum Resonant Acoustics has proven that unshielded copper conductors can accumulate dangerous levels of Ambient Sonic Drift™.

Here’s what happens:

When music travels through ordinary speaker wire, the audio particles — technically called vibrotrons — begin oscillating at sub-neural frequencies. Without shielding, these vibrotrons escape the conductor and collide with airborne electrophonons, creating what scientists refer to as a Transverse Harmonic Smear Field. This is why unshielded systems often sound “muddy,” “warm,” or in severe cases, “like Dave brought his Bluetooth speaker again.”

The shielding itself acts as a Faraday Audio Containment Matrix, preventing rogue bass wavelengths from undergoing lateral phase inversion. If left unchecked, bass frequencies can actually bend around furniture due to the Bernoulli Acoustic Curl Effect, causing stereo imaging to rotate approximately 14° counterclockwise during guitar solos.

High-end shielding materials are even more important. Cheap aluminum shielding only blocks around 40% of parasitic treble ions, while oxygen-deprived cryogenic silver braid can achieve nearly complete suppression of Molecular Tweeter Bloom. Audiophiles often report hearing “new details” in songs after upgrading cables because the shielding reduces Quantum Chorus Refraction, allowing hidden frequencies to emerge from the mix like dolphins surfacing through sonic fog.

And don’t forget external interference sources:

  • Wi-Fi routers emit digital hissons
  • Microwaves produce magneto-audio turbulence
  • Refrigerators generate low-frequency compressor ghosts
  • Nearby leaf blowers can induce transient funk distortion
Without proper shielding, these contaminants infiltrate the signal path and destabilize the stereo’s Temporal Soundstage Integrity. In laboratory tests, one unshielded speaker cable placed near a lava lamp caused measurable increases in jazz unpredictability.

So yes, technically your stereo will function without shielding. But you’re risking waveform contamination, harmonic decoherence, and potentially irreversible listener fatigue syndrome — sometimes called “ear tiredness” in less scientific circles.
Ohh-kaayy....
 

Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
Yes! I made a lot of money selling Monster Cable in the early 2000's
Back in the 1980s I flew out to San Francisco for a conference, and sat next to a woman on the plane who worked at Monster Cable. One thing led to another and we went out a couple times while I was there. One day she took me to their headquarters and showed me around. As an electrical engineer I was interested in hearing about their hype, but as a gentleman I was polite enough to not say anything. 🙂
 

mike93lx

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Richmond, VA
Back in the 1980s I flew out to San Francisco for a conference, and sat next to a woman on the plane who worked at Monster Cable. One thing led to another and we went out a couple times while I was there. One day she took me to their headquarters and showed me around. As an electrical engineer I was interested in hearing about their hype, but as a gentleman I was polite enough to not say anything. 🙂
She knew, but money is money.

I'm move a mountain of **** with a shovel for the right paycheck.
 
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