Pioneer vs Mitsubishi

Kapn · Apr 28, 2026

Working towards installing a single 36-40k outdoor unit with three heads inside. 18k and 18k for 30x40' shop and 12k ceiling cassette ducted unit for upstairs bonus room.

I had a company come and give me a quote and it was nearly $40,000! Seemed like a 'go away' price but they also wanted to do three separate units and didn't listen when I showed them the wiring and a pad was already installed.

Going to install as much as I can myself and have a friend vacuum and check it out before I start it up.

Looking at Pioneer as a diy. Or another option is to order Mitsubishi from a local wholesaler. I like them based on reputation but I know I won't get a Mitsubishi warranty unless I have a certified installer. The mitsubishi equipment will be around double the cost of the Pioneer. Is it worth it?

Buckaroo5 · Apr 28, 2026

Consider Senville....that is my plan when I get through my current project although the unit I want appears to have gone up $100.

Ohmthis · Apr 28, 2026

This is a tough question. It is all based on your budget. To me, Mitsubishi is the one of the best and is worth the extra cost. I have a hyperheat unit that I installed 10 years ago. The only thing it’s ever had was routine cleaning. I’m not suggesting that you only buy a Hyperheat unit, just that they make damn good stuff. I also think Fujitsu, Daikin, LG, and Gree are good. If I’m spending your money, there is no doubt I’d install Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, or Daikin. I know that there are others that have had excellent experiences with other brands. Hopefully they will chime in and give you more options.

Diesel Dan · Apr 28, 2026

For a dirty shop environment, I'd consider ducted indoor head units with a custom plenum made to fit common furnace filters.
9 yrs ago I did a self install of two, dual zone Fujitsu mini splits for the living quarters of my shop/house build. Mitsubishi was a first choice but couldn't buy them from a local supply house and was not going with grey market, online vendors.

pcmeiners · Apr 28, 2026

Kapn said:
but they also wanted to do three separate units and didn't listen when I showed them the wiring and a pad was already installed.

They want to install 3 separate units as single zone mini splits are more efficient than a multi zone unit. Also if you have 3 separate units all is not lost when the outside unit dies or needs a emergency repair.

"but they also wanted to do three separate units and didn't listen when I showed them the wiring and a pad was already installed."

If you have a 608 certification Mitsubishi might warrrant a DIY, someone on the forum with a 608 did get a warranty after calling them. Have (5) Fujitsu mini splits, did a DIY with a 608, all are warrantied for 10 years.

Ohmthis · Apr 28, 2026

Diesel Dan said:
For a dirty shop environment, I'd consider ducted indoor head units with a custom plenum made to fit common furnace filters.
9 yrs ago I did a self install of two, dual zone Fujitsu mini splits for the living quarters of my shop/house build. Mitsubishi was a first choice but couldn't buy them from a local supply house and was not going with grey market, online vendors.

While I agree that you will get much better filtration with the ducted type. You add the complexity of designing the ductwork, proper installation of said ductwork, proper installation of the drain, and he’s talking about a DIY project. If you are diligent on cleaning the filters (weekly isn’t a bad idea), they can do well in a shop environment.

Steve W. · Apr 28, 2026

I installed a 24k Pioneer in my place last year. So far, have only had a couple weeks worth of cooling, then heating all winter, but it's doing quite well. After contacting a recommended contractor (to verify he would do it), I had purchased the system, my son and I installed the indoor unit. The contractor and I installed the outdoor unit and the tubing. He then did all the vacuum/pressure checks and pronounced the system "healthy".

I agree with @pcmeiners on the value of multiple, individual units. Another factor that might influence a change in your mind, would be the distances the air handlers would be from the outside unit. Most systems have a maximum length for the refrigerant tubing. Depending on where you might be able to place the outdoor units, you might be able to save a bit on the tubing sets. Not enough to offset the extra units, though.

When my son and I were wiring the shop 10 years ago, I had run wiring for a mini. Thought I would place the outdoor unit at the back corner. Later, my wife decided to add some raised-bed gardens back there. Adding a condensor unit would make it a bit "cosy". After finally deciding on the actual mini to purchase, the inside location changed, so we move the outdoor unit to the other back corner. That meant we had to extend the wiring. Not exactly "trivial", but easy enough to do. Also made provisions to allow a second unit for the upstairs room, if necessary.

.

Diesel Dan · Apr 28, 2026

Ohmthis said:
While I agree that you will get much better filtration with the ducted type. You add the complexity of designing the ductwork, proper installation of said ductwork, proper installation of the drain, and he’s talking about a DIY project. If you are diligent on cleaning the filters (weekly isn’t a bad idea), they can do well in a shop environment.

You are over complicating "ductwork". Any local HVAC shop should be able to knock out a plenum inlet with basic measurements. Same with outlet "ductwork". It just needs to be a basic discharge plenum with a diffuser the same size as the ducted outlet. It won't look as neat and tidy as an indoor head unit but will be better long term, imo. That is what I will do I ever get around to installing a fixed HVAC in the shop. For now, with my insulation package, a single 12k window unit does wonders, pulls 4-5 gallons of water/day out during the humid summer months.

Ohmthis · Apr 28, 2026

Diesel Dan said:
You are over complicating "ductwork". Any local HVAC shop should be able to knock out a plenum inlet with basic measurements. Same with outlet "ductwork". It just needs to be a basic discharge plenum with a diffuser the same size as the ducted outlet. It won't look as neat and tidy as an indoor head unit but will be better long term, imo. That is what I will do I ever get around to installing a fixed HVAC in the shop. For now, with my insulation package, a single 12k window unit does wonders, pulls 4-5 gallons of water/day out during the humid summer months.

Based on your idea of ductwork, yes I am over complicating things. My idea is getting air to more places than just dumping it right in front and then returning some of it almost immediately. I’ve done several ducted style mini splits. A proper plenum, with a trunk and branches is how I’ve done them. I’ve seen exactly what you are describing in hotels, studios, and small suites. I’m thinking in my head that he has way more space than that. He said he has 1200 sqft of space. I know wall mounted systems essentially do the same thing but by design they are different animals.

HoosierBuddy · Apr 28, 2026

First mini split I ever had installed was for a server room at work. The installer recommended Mitsubishi.

Sometime in the 1990's. 1995 maybe?

Still running perfectly. Can't recall it ever needing service. Good thing 'cause the installer retired 20 years ago.

Kapn · Apr 28, 2026

Thanks for the input.
The garage area is going to be relatively clean. No real sawdust or grinding going on. The bonus room will be clean too but that's where I'm looking to do a ceiling cassette with ducts over to the bathroom. There's no where to hang a normal minisplit wall mount up there.

Longest lineset will be 30'-35'. Two others are 15' each.

I'll price out Mitsubishi equipment and see how far off it is from Pioneer.
I'll need to quickly run an additional wire run if I decide to do two separate outside units. Going to get insulation and drywall up shortly .

rjacobs · Apr 28, 2026

I dont know what the in ceiling cassette portion costs, but two regular 18k's should be more than 33-3500 a piece... I would guess the 12k with a cassette setup would be at least 3k since I know those cost a bit more to install. So 9-10k... hell 12k wouldnt shock me... 40k... GTFO of here. Also Mitsu might be more than Daikan, but I doubt 3x the cost...

Im getting a Daikan 24k installed in my shop at end of May for $4100 with 10/10 warranty. He quoted me an 18k at like 33 or 35 cant remember, but suggested stepping up to the 24k. I dont know what series Daikan that is, but I told him I wanted Wifi and heat which I think pushes me into at least their 3rd tier(I think they have 4 tiers of units) as their 2 lowest tiers dont have wifi i dont think.

BurtEggley · Apr 28, 2026

re the quote. In 2004 I replaced the HVAC system here. Four bids. Three from well known companies in this area, and one from a HVAC company I knew. The difference in price was 2 - 3X as much on the three I did not know. When they kept calling me wanting the job, and they found out they lost out, they were pissed and said we can match.

You should have a reasonable idea what the job you want will cost in equipment, and in man hours. Multiply the man hours times what you feel is a fair rate, add in a reasonable profit, add in the cost of equipment. If someone isn't close to that within reason, walk away from them. They are looking to get rich on you.

pcmeiners · Apr 29, 2026

Kapn said:
18k and 18k for 30x40' shop

For your info I am in a slightly colder climate, I have (2) Fujitsi 12k low temp mini splits in my 30x36 , 10' high shop, standard insulation, two large rollups...I have never turned on the second mini split, so 12k has heat/cooled my shop from -7°F to 101°, plenty of heat or cooling.

aggie113 · Apr 29, 2026

While not a totally like comparison, had a 36k unit with 4 indoor cassettes on my house run for ~24k (existing electrical from old unit). This was a Mitsubishi setup and included a line junction distribution box. All wall mount units inside so no ducting but the lineset run was a bit cumbersome for the installer. This was 2021.

reader2580 · Apr 29, 2026

BurtEggley said:
You should have a reasonable idea what the job you want will cost in equipment, and in man hours. Multiply the man hours times what you feel is a fair rate, add in a reasonable profit, add in the cost of equipment. If someone isn't close to that within reason, walk away from them. They are looking to get rich on you.

It seems like a lot of HVAC companies give a commission of $1,000 to $2,000, or more, to an employee who sells a system. That is a decent chunk of money the customer has to pay for.

Ohmthis · Apr 29, 2026

aggie113 said:
While not a totally like comparison, had a 36k unit with 4 indoor cassettes on my house run for ~24k (existing electrical from old unit). This was a Mitsubishi setup and included a line junction distribution box. All wall mount units inside so no ducting but the lineset run was a bit cumbersome for the installer. This was 2021.

The distribution box can be cumbersome to package. I didn’t like that change, but such is life.

bcsaltchucker · Apr 29, 2026

I don't get why a ductless system with multi heads should ever be more than 4 figures complete, other than due to unfair gatekeeping going on. The Senville mini split I got 5 years ago paid for itself in about 2-3 years compared to buying heating oil for my furnace. $2.000 all in including new breaker, thhn conduit etc.

pcmeiners · Apr 29, 2026

bcsaltchucker said:
I don't get why a ductless system with multi heads should ever be more than 4 figures complete,

Simple, >$300 per hour labor and double the mini-split cost.

manwithtools · Apr 29, 2026

pcmeiners said:
Simple, >$300 per hour labor and double the mini-split cost.

Somebody has to pay for that fancy fully wrapped service van

pcmeiners · Apr 29, 2026

manwithtools said:
Somebody has to pay for that fancy fully wrapped service van

With chrome wheels, and under 3 years old, with an under paid tech.

Ohmthis · Apr 29, 2026

And they have to pay for the accounts with the supply houses, payroll of everyone’s salary in the business, licensing, insurance, and so on. That be said, the owners are the only ones that get rich in the trade. I left for industrial maintenance years ago. I still stay active and current in the trade. I get a lot of work because I don’t have to mark everything up.

American Locomotive · May 5, 2026

bcsaltchucker said:
I don't get why a ductless system with multi heads should ever be more than 4 figures complete, other than due to unfair gatekeeping going on. The Senville mini split I got 5 years ago paid for itself in about 2-3 years compared to buying heating oil for my furnace. $2.000 all in including new breaker, thhn conduit etc.

They shouldn't. But all the small local guys are being bought up by big national chains. They hardly ever install Mitsubishi or Fujitsu around here. They charge crazy money to do a minisplit install, slam the whole thing out in half a day, and then charge 80% they would a traditional split system. Customer is happy because they "saved" money, corporate HVAC company is laughing at their outrageous profit.

KenC · May 7, 2026

Can't speak to Mits or other premium brands, but can tell you I've been satisfied with Pioneer units. When the first one failed due to a bad blower motor in the head unit, they shipped a replacement immediately, even though it was an owner self install. After a couple of years I decided to install a larger unit, Another Pioneer, install went smoothly, again owner install. It is a year old and doing great. Both were/are r410a as I grabbed one of the last instock units when they were clearing them out.

I took a risk with both as I bypassed the pressure test. Did new flares, used Nylog and Flareseals. So far, So good. My thinking was and is that a service call of it leaks and needs evacuated/tested after the fact isn't that much more than the equipment to do the pressure test. And it may not be needed.

Snapped-off · May 8, 2026

I've got a Mitsubishi that runs 24/7 Spring - Fall in a staircase. Haven't had any issues with it. It's going on its 5th year.

Pioneer vs Mitsubishi

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