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New trailer project

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Kaizen

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I am trying to get some equipment out of my garage that I use for a hobby. So I picked up a used enclosed 7x14 dual axle trailer with black sides (covered wagon i believe). I've been trying to do some reasearch and the internet is all over the map with advicce so figured I'd ask the people I trust the most.
Problem 1 - It currently has a wood floor with some porch and floor paint on it. I need to be able to hose out the trailer. The walls will be fine with exterior latex but the floor i'm thinking epoxy. I did epoxy on my garage and love it but the inside of this trailer will be over 110 degrees on a day like today when we are at 90. I'd probably sand what is there for good adhesion but is there any other prep to wood that needs to be done? I'd hate for this to start delaminating after moving everything into it. I had thought of rubber laminate and think the heat changes would cause issues with expansion and contraction.

Problem 2 - There was lettering on the outside which was removed. Lots of glue still remains. Thought i'd just get an eraser wheel and be done quick. Well I was wrong. It does remove some of it and using 99% alcohol I can get the rest off. There is a lot of it on 3 sides. It is screwed down every 4 feet. Anyone know if both sides are black so i could just flip them around? Even after getting it all off i can see the difference from the new paint under the sticker and the rest. Its smooth and wondering if buffing would even it out? below is a picture of the amount being removed by the wheel. The paint is not scratched through.
IMG_3374.jpeg
 
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tinmanwpk

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Acetone or Xylene. Hot stuff and use only outdoors for the adhesive.

Both sides may or may not be painted. I am of the belief that a trailer manufacturer will only buy one-sided painted metal. Quite often the other side is white. All you can do is check out a small corner somewhere. We are metal fabricators and you may be lucky or not. But if a metal supplier doesn't have to paint both sides then it saves money. Good luck, I would check a small unobtrusive corner and then repair it.
 
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Torque&Recoil

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I used epoxy over wood on my enclosed trailer, but I did it for reasons of cost. I really wanted to use coin rubber flooring, but that stuff is pretty pricey. That said, it seems to me that "rubber" is the ideal material if you are concerned about thermal expansion. When the floor moves due to heat, the rubber flooring is going to stretch right along with the wood floor. And, rubber flooring would be ideal for frequent washing. Another thing to keep in mind, is that epoxy is pretty slippery when wet. I'm very happy with the way my epoxy floor looks - except first time stepping on the ramp with wet shoes, I fell right on my a**.

Regarding the sticker goo - you can buy professional solvents for that stuff that work better than alcohol. I think the last solvent I used was made by PPG, but I don't see it online anymore. Maybe Eastwood PRE would work.
 
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Renegade1LI

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long island ny
I used truck bed liner in my snowmobile & utility trailer, both are holding up great. In the utility trailer I went 6"s up the wall to make it easier to wash out. I went with durabak, lots of good reviews, also did the roof of the trailers so I never have to seal the seams again.
www.durabakcompany.com

Truck Bed Liner Paint - DIY Roll On Bedliner

Our truck bed liner paint comes in 16+ Colors. DIY with ease. Suitable for cars, boats & many surfaces. Protects steel, fiberglass, aluminum, wood & more!
www.durabakcompany.com www.durabakcompany.com
 
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K

Kaizen

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tinmanwpk said:
Acetone or Xylene. Hot stuff and use only outdoors for the adhesive.

Both sides may or may not be painted. I am of the belief that a trailer manufacturer will only buy one-sided painted metal. Quite often the other side is white. All you can do is check out a small corner somewhere. We are metal fabricators and you may be lucky or not. But if a metal supplier doesn't have to paint both sides then it saves money. Good luck, I would check a small unobtrusive corner and then repair it.
Click to expand...
I'll take a look. it just laughed at acetone. i think i have some xylene kicking around to try as well.
 
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Kaizen

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Torque&Recoil said:
I used epoxy over wood on my enclosed trailer, but I did it for reasons of cost. I really wanted to use coin rubber flooring, but that stuff is pretty pricey. That said, it seems to me that "rubber" is the ideal material if you are concerned about thermal expansion. When the floor moves due to heat, the rubber flooring is going to stretch right along with the wood floor. And, rubber flooring would be ideal for frequent washing. Another thing to keep in mind, is that epoxy is pretty slippery when wet. I'm very happy with the way my epoxy floor looks - except first time stepping on the ramp with wet shoes, I fell right on my a**.

Regarding the sticker goo - you can buy professional solvents for that stuff that work better than alcohol. I think the last solvent I used was made by PPG, but I don't see it online anymore. Maybe Eastwood PRE would work.
Click to expand...
I saw those rubber penny mats and was concerned about water and stuff getting down the edges which led me to epoxy where I can seal the edges and go up the wall. Hopefully making a pan of sorts. I hear you on slip. I added double on my garage and glad i did every winter when i walk in with snow encased boots. I looked up a pro one and it was like 65 a quart. At that cost i might as well spend 100 per panel and replace them. Trying to get by so it looks less ugly
 
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Kaizen

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Renegade1LI said:
I used truck bed liner in my snowmobile & utility trailer, both are holding up great. In the utility trailer I went 6"s up the wall to make it easier to wash out. I went with durabak, lots of good reviews, also did the roof of the trailers so I never have to seal the seams again.
www.durabakcompany.com

Truck Bed Liner Paint - DIY Roll On Bedliner

Our truck bed liner paint comes in 16+ Colors. DIY with ease. Suitable for cars, boats & many surfaces. Protects steel, fiberglass, aluminum, wood & more!
www.durabakcompany.com www.durabakcompany.com
Click to expand...
That might be the ticket. I know bedliner is the only thing holding the sides of my truck together. How many coats did you use on yours? I like that they have lighter colors. In my case it will help with making sure its clean.
 
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Renegade1LI

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long island ny
Kaizen said:
That might be the ticket. I know bedliner is the only thing holding the sides of my truck together. How many coats did you use on yours? I like that they have lighter colors. In my case it will help with making sure its clean.
Click to expand...
I went with 2 coats, maybe could of got by with one but 2 looks much better, great bond going on plywood.
 
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whateg01

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The skin may be taped to the frame between the edges where it's screwed down. When I've bought sheets of aluminum it was painted white on one side and bare on the other.
 
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PCustoms

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VT
Kaizen said:
I am trying to get some equipment out of my garage that I use for a hobby. So I picked up a used enclosed 7x14 dual axle trailer with black sides (covered wagon i believe). I've been trying to do some reasearch and the internet is all over the map with advicce so figured I'd ask the people I trust the most.
Problem 1 - It currently has a wood floor with some porch and floor paint on it. I need to be able to hose out the trailer. The walls will be fine with exterior latex but the floor i'm thinking epoxy. I did epoxy on my garage and love it but the inside of this trailer will be over 110 degrees on a day like today when we are at 90. I'd probably sand what is there for good adhesion but is there any other prep to wood that needs to be done? I'd hate for this to start delaminating after moving everything into it. I had thought of rubber laminate and think the heat changes would cause issues with expansion and contraction.

Problem 2 - There was lettering on the outside which was removed. Lots of glue still remains. Thought i'd just get an eraser wheel and be done quick. Well I was wrong. It does remove some of it and using 99% alcohol I can get the rest off. There is a lot of it on 3 sides. It is screwed down every 4 feet. Anyone know if both sides are black so i could just flip them around? Even after getting it all off i can see the difference from the new paint under the sticker and the rest. Its smooth and wondering if buffing would even it out? below is a picture of the amount being removed by the wheel. The paint is not scratched through.
IMG_3374.jpeg
Click to expand...

That "metal" seams to have a weird texture....

Can we get an overall shot of this trailer?
 
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Torque&Recoil

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That bed liner is an interesting idea. I was under the impression that it only came in black, but Durabak seems to have quite a few colors available.
 
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nadogail

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Location
Coronado, CA
Home Depot sells GOOF OFF, (repackaged XYELINE sp?) that will remove many adhesives.
Porch and Deck enamel should stand up for routine cleaning.
May your trailer give you good service for many years.
 
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gregs

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I use Rapid Remover which is designed to remove the adhesive from vinyl wrap. It works very well. I see that Chemical Guys are promoting some new products to handle vinyl wrap removal as well.
 
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Smilodon

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tinmanwpk said:
Tractor Supply has horse stall mats that are economical. Thick and good. Not sure about odor or not.
Click to expand...

I've used them for various things and highly recommend them. That said, they do stink (varying greatly from one to another) and would be a tough call for an enclosed trailer. Also, they are heavy and vary quite a bit in price (look for a sale in other words).

Not to talk them down. In an number of applications, they worked great (and the weight was an advantage).
 
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racecougar

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I'd shoot the floor/lower interior walls with U-POL's Raptor. You can get it in a bunch of different base colors, and can tint it beyond that, if you desire.

1779367309830.png
 
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gregs

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On a somewhat related question... Experience with which DIY bedliner creates the most texture when dried? I want to coat the fenders on my recent car hauler trailer purchase I am working on. The fenders are a little banged up and have gotten them to about 80% and thinking this could camouflage some of it as well as taking care of the beat up paint and provide future protection.
 
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racecougar

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I cannot divulge too much, but the OEM I work for utilizes U-POL Raptor with the traction slip-resistant additive for specific deck areas on equipment/vehicles. It works and holds up very well.
 
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gregs

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racecougar said:
I cannot divulge too much, but the OEM I work for utilizes U-POL Raptor with the traction slip-resistant additive for specific deck areas on equipment/vehicles. It works and holds up very well.
Click to expand...
I would guess that they spray it ? I see that most DIY use a coarse roller to apply which I am guessing that the thicker it is may create a more coarse or heavy pattern.
 
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racecougar

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gregs said:
I would guess that they spray it ? I see that most DIY use a coarse roller to apply which I am guessing that the thicker it is may create a more coarse or heavy pattern.
Click to expand...
Correct. I've never tried rolling it. You can play with the texture by adjusting your air pressure at the Shutz gun.
 
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PCustoms

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I sprayed Raptor on my bed, can definitely get texture, but I wouldn't expect it to hide dents.

May also want a flat finish...
 
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gregs

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I figured it would be a good application. Back in the day I would buy a couple new fenders when they where $25 a piece, but now they are $100+ each. Plus its a working trailer and is going to get banged up.
 
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Kaizen

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Thanks all. I'm going to pull the panel and see what I find before i continue removeing. Appreciate the bed lining suggestions. Going to make a desision after I clean it out a little more.
 
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