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Shop Stairs for Second Level

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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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I went fully enclosed on mine. I like being able to attach the stringers to the walls so there's no give at all. I made mine 42" wide as well. I didn't use a center stringer; instead, the riser is part of the structure, and they are the most solid stairs I've ever built. The stringer overlaps the back of the 2X12 treads, and is glued and nailed to them. That way, the riser becomes a beam and really stiffens them up. Because my stairs are so long (12' 4" ceiling height) I had to make my stringers in two pieces, but because they are secured to the walls on both sides, they are solid. Probably not code, but they are stout.
 
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purplezr2

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Jun 1, 2010
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5,285
Location
Central MN
I went fully enclosed on mine. I like being able to attach the stringers to the walls so there's no give at all. I made mine 42" wide as well. I didn't use a center stringer; instead, the riser is part of the structure, and they are the most solid stairs I've ever built. The stringer overlaps the back of the 2X12 treads, and is glued and nailed to them. That way, the riser becomes a beam and really stiffens them up. Because my stairs are so long (12' 4" ceiling height) I had to make my stringers in two pieces, but because they are secured to the walls on both sides, they are solid. Probably not code, but they are stout.


This is similar to what I was leaning toward, have any pictures?
 
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jmarkwolf

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Jan 15, 2013
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1,806
Location
Southeast Michigan
My 28ft x 30ft detached garage shop has a full 2nd story (12:12 roof pitch with attic trusses) with an enclosed staircase (pics below). The 1st floor is nicely insulated and finished and is climate controlled, but the 2nd story is not (yet).

The straight-shot staircase is 36in wide, climbs 11ft, and is getting "increasingly" difficult to hump anything upstairs for storage, which is why I plan to install a fixed light-duty gantry and hoist over the staircase.

The 36in high knee wall adjacent to the staircase was installed to meet code 13 years ago but blocks convenient access to the window over the staircase as apparent in the pics. I'm either going to construct a new knee wall or modify the original one with an integral hinged "gang plank" for window access and a swinging door to accommodate the gantry. The handrail will need to be "segmented" somehow to accommodate the "gang plank".

Shop upstairs window.jpgShop upstairs knee wall.jpgShop upstairs handrail.jpg
 
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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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Location
Upstate South Carolina
Here's a couple pics of mine. Lotsa stuff in the way! For the stringers, rather than cut them, I added supports cut out of 2X material. The risers are 3/4" Advantech that I had left over. They are glued and fastened to the front of the support, glued and fastened to the back of each tread, and glued to the underside of the next tread. I need to figure out a lining for the insulation in the stairwell. There's not enough room for sheet goods, as there is a landing, a 90 degree turn, and a door at the bottom. I'm thinking maybe vinyl siding?

As for getting stuff up the stairs- I made a lift out of a HF winch, over in a front corner of the shop. I never put more than a few hundred pounds on it at most, but it sure saves trying to lug heavy stuff up all of those stairs!

IMG_0901.jpegIMG_0902.jpeg
 

MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,713
Location
Upstate South Carolina
I guess I could figure out the biggest piece that will take the turn. I could get nearly a full sheet on my hoist, but that's on the other end of the shop. Of course, smaller pieces means left weight to lift for a senior citizen. T&G is too expensive; I want the cheapest route possible.
 
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