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Mini split Line set flare sealing Rectorseal flaretite

pcmeiners

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Use these line set seals on my (2) mini splits for my garage. The seals fit over the male flare face, they have a thin coating of dried blue Loctite, these are made for HVAC service. For a test I applied about <6lbs torque on both the 1/4" and 3/8" line's male flares, far below either of the lines recommended torque setting. Both fitting were leak proof at 500psi. When I was ready to open the lineset valves valves I warmed the fitting to about 180° F, and torqued the fittings to 12.5ftp (1/4") and 25.5ftp for the 3/8" to bring the torque to the recommended amount, again no leaks at 500 psi, vacuum settled steady at 250 micron.
Mind you I would not have had any leaks without the seals but I used the flaretites as insurance for possible future expansion/contraction and vibration leaks. Cheap insurance, great product.

 
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428PI

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I hope it works for you. When I installed my mini split from Pioneer I had to order the outdoor unit separate from the inside units with the lines because of backorders. Well, they forgot to put in the adapter I needed for the bigger lineset. I could have picked up an adapter for cheap from Lowe's but decided to get the adapter from Pioneer because it had the extra seal washer sort of like you were describing. but in that application one was installing hard brass against hard brass. I do believe though that on new soft copper lines and fittings the Rectorseal is probably not necessary.
 

ALinCarolina

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NC Piedmont
When I installed the last mini split it came with an adapter to mate the bigger suction line to the service valve. There was a piece of flared copper in it. I wasn't sure if it should stay there in order to have the soft copper seal instead of brass to brass. I ordered a Flareseal which also fit over the male but no loctite that I saw. I used that instead and has worked fine.
 

56Mark

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Oct 26, 2014
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Fall Branch, TN
I used these on the minisplit I put in our sunroom in 2021. Pressure tested with N2 and vacuum pulled down and held. It still is working great. So far, so good. I would use them again.
 
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pcmeiners

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"I do believe though that on new soft copper lines and fittings the Rectorseal is probably not necessary."

Fully agree, but how happy will you be if in 5 years if your system gets a leak from expansion/contraction, vibration or some kid using your lineset as a step ladder, your warranty likely will not cover it, will cost hundreds if not more, for the sake of a few dollars for seals.
 

428PI

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Fully agree, but how happy will you be if in 5 years if your system gets a leak from expansion/contraction, vibration or some kid using your lineset as a step ladder, your warranty likely will not cover it, will cost hundreds if not more, for the sake of a few dollars for seals.
I don't see how those seals would help in that situation at all.
 

rlitman

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Long Island
I don't see how those seals would help in that situation at all.
I can easily see how they would improve a sketchy flare. In the past, many people have recommended Nylog as a lubricant/sealant for flares, but manufacturers frown upon that, because Nylog can contaminate the system and cause issues with valves and orifices. This is a great idea, and I will surely be getting these the next time I have to deal with a refrigerant flare.
 

American Locomotive

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While they're neat and seem to help with poorly torqued or prepared connections, I really don't think you can say with any certainty that they will have any more long-term durability than just a straight flare connection.

I suspect the vast majority of mini-split leaks (even long-term), are from grossly under-torque (or over-torqued) connections.
 

2Fast

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I can easily see how they would improve a sketchy flare. In the past, many people have recommended Nylog as a lubricant/sealant for flares, but manufacturers frown upon that, because Nylog can contaminate the system and cause issues with valves and orifices. This is a great idea, and I will surely be getting these the next time I have to deal with a refrigerant flare.

Nylog Blue.jpg
 
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2Fast

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Tell that to the people who have had their warranties voided by manufacturers.
Do you have any examples of actual people you know that this happened to or is this one of those 'I heard it on the internet so it has to be true' kind of a thing?

Are you actually saying that if one of the circuit boards fails, the 'manufacturer' isn't going to warranty it?

Just for fun I googled it - check out the first hit
Nylog voided warranty.jpg
 

428PI

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I put the lubricant on the flare that came with the Pioneer unit in a little squeeze tube. I have no idea whether it is the Nylog or not. They call it leak guard.
 
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pcmeiners

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"I suspect the vast majority of mini-split leaks (even long-term), are from grossly under-torque (or over-torqued) connections."

Think it starts before torquing, most do not have the correct tools, the correct patience, or bother to create test flares...,. basically laziness with expectations of success.... they rarely go together.
 

jlrut

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Dec 30, 2018
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Michigan
Proper flare tool, roll on type, creates a beautiful flare, so much so, that it’s almost difficult to get a leak. Seriously, this isn’t rocket surgery, lubricate the threads and neck of the flare so the nut can spin without binding on the copper tubing. I’ve installed hundreds of systems and never used gaskets.

Also do commercial refrigeration (lots of vibration), never had a leak that a little round gasket would have saved. How can a flare connection vibrate and cause a leak? It’s rock solid, I’ve seen copper get brittle, wear through, but never a worn flare, it’s a rock solid connection.

Cannot imagine putting enough Nylog into a system to cause an issue, common sense goes a long way 🤦‍♂️
 
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pcmeiners

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This thread is primarily aimed at the thousands of people who do not succeed in creating a working flare seal, and that goes to "professionals" who have had flare leaks, and secondly for insurance against a 1 in 100 tiny leak. It only requires one to be tired, rushed, or lazy for for one time to get a leak.
What is the argument here? For the shake of a few bucks even a poorly created flare will seal with flaretites. Do I care if you have done a 10,000 flares and not had a leak... I do not care, I only care about my work, and the health of my installed units so I will use the extra insurance.
 
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American Locomotive

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I think the argument is that you have really not proven these do anything, except allow for a flared connection to be under-torqued and not leak initially.

What's not to say that these won't also fail after numerous heat/pressure cycles? Especially since they're essentially loctite coated copper shims being jammed into a connection that was never intended to have a sealing element in it?

Then again, we now live in a world were crimped-on refrigeration fittings with o-rings are now common place. We'll see in a 5-6 years if these things are great, or if they're just as problematic as raw flares.
 

jjrbus

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Florida
When getting ready to install a new evaporator coil in a mini being a hack and not wanting to fail I went back and watched some install videos to refresh the memory banks. There was one, a supposed pro that slopped blue Nylog all over the flair, maybe 1/2 ounce on 1 joint! I wonder if he used flairettes if he would use 2, if one is good 2 have to be twice as good.
 

jshillin

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PA
Bumping an old thread on purpose.

Any issues with the seals after 3 years of use?

I bought some, but opinions on them are pretty much split, 50% love them, 50% hate them.
 
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