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About to pull the trigger on polyaspartic coating for new build.

MelvinManiac

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Sep 30, 2025
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231
Full build is here for anyone curious about it: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/36x48-garage-build-aka-i-love-debt-is-underway.551889/

Garage is 36X48 with a 1ft stem wall, but technically measures more like 34X46 inside.

I did an epoxy floor myself in the attached garage 10 years ago, and it's held up well, except some yellowing and a few chips. From what I understand, this polyaspartic should be much more durable and UV resistant.

Anything I should ask before signing the contract? My main concern is that they do thorough prep work and use a thick top coat so there are no sharp flakes snagging on brooms/cloths, etc.. The company has good reviews and seems decent so far...but I know that's never a guarantee of anything.

Screenshot 2026-04-23 165812.png
 
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Sumboodie

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I'd **** a brick if someone gave me a quote for $10k on a garage floor paintjob. $6.25 a sq ft...

That's nearing slab cost!
 
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MelvinManiac

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Sep 30, 2025
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I'd **** a brick if someone gave me a quote for $10k on a garage floor paintjob. $6.25 a sq ft...

That's nearing slab cost!

Then you might not want to know what this whole build is costing lol... I got another quote and it was about the same.
 

logical

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Northern fringe of the Motor City Suburbs
So, what is a normal sq/ft cost for polyaspartic? From what I'm Googling, around $6 sq/ft seems to be the going rate.
It's obviously going to depend on where you are, but in SE Michigan and NW Ohio, for the floor system you posted, it is about $5/sq.ft. if they are busy and $4/sq.ft. if they are hungry.
 

Shea

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Sep 19, 2012
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California
Full build is here for anyone curious about it: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/36x48-garage-build-aka-i-love-debt-is-underway.551889/

Garage is 36X48 with a 1ft stem wall, but technically measures more like 34X46 inside.

I did an epoxy floor myself in the attached garage 10 years ago, and it's held up well, except some yellowing and a few chips. From what I understand, this polyaspartic should be much more durable and UV resistant.

Anything I should ask before signing the contract? My main concern is that they do thorough prep work and use a thick top coat so there are no sharp flakes snagging on brooms/cloths, etc.. The company has good reviews and seems decent so far...but I know that's never a guarantee of anything.

Screenshot 2026-04-23 165812.png

The price per square foot is not out of line with the national average for a full polyaspartic floor coating. Polyaspartic is more expensive and requires more people for the application process due to how quickly it cures.

That said, we aren't the biggest fans of polyaspartic base coats and prefer polyurea instead. Polyaspartic is moisture-sensitive, which can affect adhesion. More importantly, the extremely fast cure rates prevent it from penetrating concrete as well as polyurea does, which typically provides better adhesion.

Some installers slow the fast cure by adding Xylene. This reduces the rush to apply it and improves penetration for better adhesion. However, it results in a thinner base coat. It can also lead to the VOC smell complaints people report because the installers did not wait long enough for the base coat to fully outgas before applying the clear coat.
 
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MelvinManiac

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The price per square foot is not out of line with the national average for a full polyaspartic floor coating. Polyaspartic is more expensive and requires more people for the application process due to how quickly it cures.

That said, we aren't the biggest fans of polyaspartic base coats and prefer polyurea instead. Polyaspartic is moisture-sensitive, which can affect adhesion. More importantly, the extremely fast cure rates prevent it from penetrating concrete as well as polyurea does, which typically provides better adhesion.

Some installers slow the fast cure by adding Xylene. This reduces the rush to apply it and improves penetration for better adhesion. However, it results in a thinner base coat. It can also lead to the VOC smell complaints people report because the installers did not wait long enough for the base coat to fully outgas before applying the clear coat.
So, it would be better to do a Polyurea base coat and Polyaspartic top/clear coat?

I'm not familiar with Polyurea and not sure if this company even uses it.

I definitely don't want VOC fumes...I mean, that's OK if they fade away after a few weeks, but I don't want anything permenant.
 

Miss the Pontiacs

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Nov 7, 2016
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Saskatchewan Canada
I totally like my Polyaspartic floor. I paid $6.50 a square foot. Spill oil and just wipe up no staining. Just be sure the moisture level in your pad is within the spec allowed. I had 2 commercial dehumidifiers, fans running full time and a 240 volt heater running intermittently until I hit the spec required. The installer treated the project like it was his own.
But I do remember paying a finisher to trowel it just so and run the expansion cuts radiating from the center from a recessed water catch basin to the corners of the garage for drainage. We poured this in early November when it was relatively cool and he had a hell of a time capping the concrete. I know as I had to get lighting on the project and we finished up about 11:00 pm. Then did the cuts the next day.
Then the flooring guy just comes in and grinds it all off. :yikes:
The Polyaspartic was not even a prospect when I paid the guy for finished floor. Could have saved the money and applied it to the Polyaspartic.
The smell was pretty potent but a day or two later it was gone.
 
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MelvinManiac

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Messages
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I totally like my Polyaspartic floor. I paid $6.50 a square foot. Spill oil and just wipe up no staining. Just be sure the moisture level in your pad is within the spec allowed. I had 2 commercial dehumidifiers, fans running full time and a 240 volt heater running intermittently until I hit the spec required. The installer treated the project like it was his own.
But I do remember paying a finisher to trowel it just so and run the expansion cuts radiating from the center from a recessed water catch basin to the corners of the garage for drainage. We poured this in early November when it was relatively cool and he had a hell of a time capping the concrete. I know as I had to get lighting on the project and we finished up about 11:00 pm. Then did the cuts the next day.
Then the flooring guy just comes in and grinds it all off. :yikes:
The Polyaspartic was not even a prospect when I paid the guy for finished floor. Could have saved the money and applied it to the Polyaspartic.
The smell was pretty potent but a day or two later it was gone.
The rep said that they just add something extra in if the moisture level is too high...I'm guessing it's a compromise somehow though...

How many months did your concrete cure before you did the polyaspartic? Mine is a 6" slab and was poured in early Nov. So, basically been about 6 months now.
 
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Miss the Pontiacs

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Nov 7, 2016
Messages
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Location
Saskatchewan Canada
The rep said that they just add something extra in if the moisture level is too high...I'm guessing it's a compromise somehow though...

How many months did your concrete cure before you did the polyaspartic? Mine is a 6" slab and was poured in early Nov. So, basically been about 6 months now.

An additive wasn’t even mentioned to ramp up the procedure. Maybe it wasn’t available or maybe the contractor didn’t want a future potential failures. In my case he supplied one dehumidifier and I sourced a second. Fans and heaters were my effort as I wanted this part of the build completed. The contractor came a couple of times to check the progress of drying out the slab. I’d quiz some of the other contractors in your area on the additive. I thought I read after I seen about the additive that it caused more of a barrier and the product couldn’t seep in as well.
My slab was supposedly 5” with a barrier beneath and I had ran tubing for a boiler heating system. I like must admit I really like the in floor heating.
I also added an additional flake colour (green) to the black and white Tuxedo. My slab was at least 2 years old before doing the Polyaspartic. I’ll see if I have better records to check the time span. I don’t know where you are located and if your building is left open to circulate air better. My location wouldn’t be conducive for winter aeration and was shuttered in. My slab was poured early November and that is not the norm here.
Take a look at the “Welcome to my garage thread” floor info starts at about page 3 and continues on.
Take a look at one of their previous jobs, my guy ahead no problem with that request. What kind of warranty is available to you, especially if you do the additive.
This should not be considered a painted floor. I’ve seen some of those and I’d prefer it left as it was.
 
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MelvinManiac

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Sep 30, 2025
Messages
231
An additive wasn’t even mentioned to ramp up the procedure. Maybe it wasn’t available or maybe the contractor didn’t want a future potential failures. In my case he supplied one dehumidifier and I sourced a second. Fans and heaters were my effort as I wanted this part of the build completed. The contractor came a couple of times to check the progress of drying out the slab. I’d quiz some of the other contractors in your area on the additive. I thought I read after I seen about the additive that it caused more of a barrier and the product couldn’t seep in as well.
My slab was supposedly 5” with a barrier beneath and I had ran tubing for a boiler heating system. I like must admit I really like the in floor heating.
I also added an additional flake colour (green) to the black and white Tuxedo. My slab was at least 2 years old before doing the Polyaspartic. I’ll see if I have better records to check the time span. I don’t know where you are located and if your building is left open to circulate air better. My location wouldn’t be conducive for winter aeration and was shuttered in. My slab was poured early November and that is not the norm here.
Take a look at the “Welcome to my garage thread” floor info starts at about page 3 and continues on.
Take a look at one of their previous jobs, my guy ahead no problem with that request. What kind of warranty is available to you, especially if you do the additive.
This should not be considered a painted floor. I’ve seen some of those and I’d prefer it left as it was.
So, your slab still wasn't dry enough after 2 years?
 
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