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Ryan

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Another day, another deep dive into a shop space. This time it’s the bench and tools of a horologist who specializes in vintage timepieces.



I should say up front, I dabble in this world myself. Or more accurately, I dabble in watch modding. I love taking vintage watch parts, mostly Rolex and Tudor, mixing original components from different eras with a few well-made reproductions (read:fake), and building what I think of as hot rod watches.



But this is a whole different animal. This is a guy restoring watches with tools and techniques I can’t even pretend to understand. He’s clearly trained, both through formal education and years of experience, and it shows. The level of precision and care is unreal, and the end result is a watch that’s as close to new as a vintage piece can realistically get.



That’s not to say I agree with every choice he makes. I’d never polish a vintage case, revisionist history just isn’t my thing, and I’d never remove an engraving either. Erasing...

Continue reading...


 
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rlitman

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Wow, that was one real basket case to begin with. I'm with you, always erring on the side of conservation rather than restoration, but when all you have to work with is something abused beyond usability you have to weigh the historical value you would be destroying vs the value you are recovering by returning it to a usable state. My guess is the current owner has no idea who Uschi ever was.

Those sides do leave the factory polished like that, and polishing them is pretty much accepted as part of a cleaning nowadays (along with refreshing the brushed pattern). It's a practice I really don't comprehend, as I prefer the patina they both acquire (both blending towards a rubbed satin) through use. But some people really like the look of "desk divers".
 
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Ryan

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Wow, that was one real basket case to begin with. I'm with you, always erring on the side of conservation rather than restoration, but when all you have to work with is something abused beyond usability you have to weigh the historical value you would be destroying vs the value you are recovering by returning it to a usable state. My guess is the current owner has no idea who Uschi ever was.

Those sides do leave the factory polished like that, and polishing them is pretty much accepted as part of a cleaning nowadays (along with refreshing the brushed pattern). It's a practice I really don't comprehend, as I prefer the patina they both acquire (both blending towards a rubbed satin) through use. But some people really like the look of "desk divers".

I'm weird about watches. My dad was a full blown collector and I inherited much of it. I kept most of the tool and military watches and sold the rest to put towards my kid's college educations, but I kind of got into it all with the research required to market what I did sell.

What I learned is that I don't care for restored watches. I prefer watches that show their history, but are mechanically maintained. I would much rather own a watch that is beat to hell and shows its history than a watch that looks as though it sat in a box it''s whole life.

And you know what I like even more? Frankenwatches. Watches that are pieced together from parts I appreciate - even if they are from different eras... even if some of the parts used are "fake" reproduction parts... For instance, I love early Rolex Explorers, but don't have 50k sitting around to buy one. But I do have an old Rolex Air King case... and an ETA 2824 movement. Add a fake dial, a Tudor handset, and a OEM crown and... Bingo... I have a couple of hundred dollars in a watch that I absolutely love, but the watch world HATES. I love that stuff...

But this guy… he’s operating in an entirely different league when it comes to craftsmanship and knowledge. What I do is basically just hacking stuff together and hoping it works. What he does actually creates value, provenance, and longevity. Honestly, I don’t even know enough to fully understand how good he is, which probably says everything.

And the tools… my god. They’re incredible. I’d love nothing more than to spend a day in that shop, just playing with everything, poking around, and seeing if I could even begin to figure out how it all works.
 

Shiftless

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Thanks for posting. It’s a pleasure to watch a master craftsman at work. His collection of tools is totally amazing.
His one inch bench top belt sander is WAY nicer than the one I got from HF. 😎
 
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Ryan

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More specialized tools in this one:


That welder is fascinating... I have no idea what's going on there.
 

rlitman

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...That welder is fascinating... I have no idea what's going on there.
It sure is. You can see the machine at 4:52. Its an MS 3.5 laser welder. Look up Freeform Fabrication Dado laser welder. Pretty awesome technology using a microscope and mixing laser pulses for heat input (unlike an electric arc) with an inert gas (as needed), with the ability to add filler wire. I've used TIG with DC currents below 5A (and a 0.5mm tungsten) to weld 1/16" stainless rods, but getting the arc concentrated where you need it at those power levels is tricky, even if you have the magnification. And you can forget about it entirely with AC. Lasers don't wander at low power levels, and can focus onto a much smaller spot than an arc, so you can do crazy stuff like this. And with a much more concentrated heat, you have a smaller HAZ and can weld onto difficult alloys like titanium.
 
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Ryan

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It sure is. You can see the machine at 4:52. Its an MS 3.5 laser welder. Look up Freeform Fabrication Dado laser welder. Pretty awesome technology using a microscope and mixing laser pulses for heat input (unlike an electric arc) with an inert gas (as needed), with the ability to add filler wire. I've used TIG with DC currents below 5A (and a 0.5mm tungsten) to weld 1/16" stainless rods, but getting the arc concentrated where you need it at those power levels is tricky, even if you have the magnification. And you can forget about it entirely with AC. Lasers don't wander at low power levels, and can focus onto a much smaller spot than an arc, so you can do crazy stuff like this. And with a much more concentrated heat, you have a smaller HAZ and can weld onto difficult alloys like titanium.

I so want to play with that machine... and I want to do it with very little supervision for some reason.
 

paulsomlo

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Regarding the inscription, "1978 ALL MY LOVE USCHI" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uschi_Obermaier

For those not inclined to follow the link, here's an excerpt:
"Obermaier went on The Rolling Stones' Tour of the Americas '75 and is said to have had affairs with both Keith Richards and Mick Jagger,[5] as well as with Jimi Hendrix – a visitor to Kommune 1 – with whom she can be seen kissing and cuddling farewell outside the West Berlin hotel Kempinski in the movie Last Experience.[6]"

Coincidence? Maybe - it is noted as a "Rockstar's" watch.
 
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Ryan

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This thread inspired me to get a watch running today. This is a Bulova Mil-W-3818A from the late 1950's or early 1960's. My dad had it in a box that read "service before winding," so I serviced it, cleaned it up a bit, and got it wound. Running really well actually... Pretty little watch.

L1000007.jpg

L1000011.jpg

L1000012.jpg

L1000014.jpg

L1000020.jpg
 
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Ryan

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Regarding the inscription, "1978 ALL MY LOVE USCHI" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uschi_Obermaier

For those not inclined to follow the link, here's an excerpt:
"Obermaier went on The Rolling Stones' Tour of the Americas '75 and is said to have had affairs with both Keith Richards and Mick Jagger,[5] as well as with Jimi Hendrix – a visitor to Kommune 1 – with whom she can be seen kissing and cuddling farewell outside the West Berlin hotel Kempinski in the movie Last Experience.[6]"

Coincidence? Maybe - it is noted as a "Rockstar's" watch.

Oh... it's definitely her... and that engraving should have stayed with the watch. Even with a full restoration, I think the clasp should have been left untouched.
 

rlitman

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This thread inspired me to get a watch running today. This is a Bulova Mil-W-3818A from the late 1950's or early 1960's. My dad had it in a box that read "service before winding," so I serviced it, cleaned it up a bit, and got it wound. Running really well actually... Pretty little watch...
Yeah. That is a beauty. That era of military watches had class. I wonder if the hands and dial are full of radium...
Oh... it's definitely her... and that engraving should have stayed with the watch. Even with a full restoration, I think the clasp should have been left untouched.
Ok, that context was lost on me, but if it is her, then unless there was some bad blood the owner was looking to erase, I agree. That being said, while I use my pneumatic engraving pen on all sorts of things, I wouldn't be tacky enough to peen up a watch bracelet with it.
 
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Ryan

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I wouldn't be tacky enough to peen up a watch bracelet with it.

I'd like to talk big and say I'd do it, but I probably wouldn't either... That said, I love it when people treat their Rolexes like tools rather than some precious art piece. In my mind, they look so much more real when they have some age and signs of use. Then again, I've never bought a new one and have no idea how bad that first scratch might hurt.
 

Stuart in MN

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What I learned is that I don't care for restored watches. I prefer watches that show their history, but are mechanically maintained. I would much rather own a watch that is beat to hell and shows its history than a watch that looks as though it sat in a box it''s whole life.
You may like the Wristwatch Revival channel. He repairs watches but makes a point of not restoring the exterior any more than necessary (usually no more than maybe a new crystal, and just a good cleaning.) https://www.youtube.com/@WristwatchRevival
 

Stuart in MN

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I was never too concerned about expensive wristwatches. I do have my dad's two Timex Marlins from the 1960s, one is gold tone and the other is silver. A friend cleaned them and got them running again. They keep good time and I think they're pretty stylish. Similar to this:

61i459AkMWL._AC_UY900_.jpg
 
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BSWS

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Regarding the inscription, "1978 ALL MY LOVE USCHI" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uschi_Obermaier

For those not inclined to follow the link, here's an excerpt:
"Obermaier went on The Rolling Stones' Tour of the Americas '75 and is said to have had affairs with both Keith Richards and Mick Jagger,[5] as well as with Jimi Hendrix – a visitor to Kommune 1 – with whom she can be seen kissing and cuddling farewell outside the West Berlin hotel Kempinski in the movie Last Experience.[6]"

Coincidence? Maybe - it is noted as a "Rockstar's" watch.
If Tony Carey, of the band Planet P, got a Rolex, I wonder what Mick, Keith, and Jimi got.
 
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Ryan

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Not on that level, but I play around with custom Seiko divers. And I'd have pretty limited use for it, but that little steamer on the sink would be great to have.

Agreed... Also, all the fixtures he has for getting bevels to the right angle, etc... I love **** like that.
 

amgent57

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I enjoy this guy.

 

LXCam

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Well that was incredible. I’ve never been a watch guy but I’ve always been interested in trades where craftsmanship is glory.

The inverse of that appreciation is I’ve always weighed effort over value and in this case I couldn’t help but wonder what this restoration might cost.

Maybe I’m wrong here and you guys can set me straight. I’m thinking anywhere from 20-60hrs for the time piece resto minus a service to the mechanics.

But that band, holy **** that’s got to be 100+ hrs If not double. I could see the effort if keeping the prominence of the inscription mattered. But after erasing that history, what does something like that cost and was it worth it over a replacement (if possible).


Thanks for sharing Ryan.

I rarely watch anything but I’ve been stuck at a doctors appointment for me wife for the last 3hrs and this kept my undivided attention for a bit.
 

Bryan Burns

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Fascinating, thanks Ryan. The guy made it look easy, as if he's done each step a million times before.
I had no idea that Rolex crystals were acrylic. Just kind of assumed they were very high quality glass. (I know nothing about high-end watches and just wear a eco-drive. I'd rock a Rolex if I could afford one though, just because I admire craftmanship.)
 

roclakdg

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different craft, but the guy seems to be an artist at what he does as well.
He looks to have the kind of shop Ryan might wanna snoop thru for a day...
 

4xdog

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...I had no idea that Rolex crystals were acrylic. Just kind of assumed they were very high quality glass...
Back then they were indeed acrylic. My first Rolex, c 1984, is acrylic. Nowadays (and since 1988-90-ish IIRC) they're a synthetic sapphire of some sort.
 

Chaznsc

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I have been and still am baffled at many things, like how the mail works, how quickly emails and texts move and how intricate watches are. They are tiny, precision instruments that anyone can afford. Yet so fragile that one poke in the wrong area and a spring is no more. All those moving pieces....... just baffles the mind, or maybe just the simple minds.
 

rsparks64

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I enjoy this guy.

Heck of a hobby. How many watches do you have to work on (and screw up) to get the knowledge and skill that Marshall has. His work just to get that watch working again would be very expensive. I can’t imagine what the cost of repairing and refurbishing that Rolex would cost in the original posting by Ryan.
 

Mtpisgah

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My grandfahter was a watchmaker. I inherited some of his pocket watches, but they have very limited usefulness. I started collecting watches in college and have a nice collection. My father in law also collects watches, and has given me a few watches over the 25 years my wife and I have been married. He gave me a Rolex bubble back he found at an estate sale; it was literally in pieces when I received it. I had it repaired and somewhat restored. I instructed the watchmaker to keep it generally in the worn condition, but to clean it a little. It is a great watch.
 

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egdede

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I thought of this thread after seeing this. There were other related discussions including one that showed a warehouse of counterfeit parts (I had no idea):


 

Stuart in MN

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I enjoy this guy.

I watch his videos, along with the Nekkid Watchmaker. Both are entertaining.
 
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