- Thread starter Ryan
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I have the 7k one, I don't trust it with pick ups as much, as I didn't get the long wheel base model.
The other sketchy part is with the pad extensions on, I definitely just use it to put it up then lower it onto jack stands, those things are just too wobbly, especially if you have to beat off a stuck wheel or other non gentle repair haha.
But with unibody cars on pinch welds and the pads it's pretty sturdy on the locks.
Going to use this sale to get another one. I have low ceilings and these jacks are my favorite
That's the scissor lift I have also, I love it, got it in 2011 and have moved it twice (once rather violently haha). Have a different pump on it now which I'm draining to check out as something has failed.
If you have room, both are great for different things. The scissor is great for front end and brake work and other gravy jobs and much easier to set up.
The quick jacks are great if you need to access the center and don't need much height. They're also a lot more work to set up and move out of the way as you have to physically move the whole thing when setting or pulling back out.
I also use the atlas for alignments and put the plates on stools as it rests the most level when on the locks.
There are some side lift mobile post lifts I'm thinking about. These low ceilings are such a pain
tmshort
Well-known member
Seems like overall people are pretty happy with them ... ?
I have a Toyota Tacoma and an older BMW 335i.
I don't have the low ceiling problem, but have not gotten around to finding a 4 post lift that will fit with all my junk.
For oil changes, basic brake work etc this seems like it might be an ideal solution ...?
If the 7000TLX will fit the wheelbase of both vehicles, any reason not to get the longer one?
I have a Toyota Tacoma and an older BMW 335i.
I don't have the low ceiling problem, but have not gotten around to finding a 4 post lift that will fit with all my junk.
For oil changes, basic brake work etc this seems like it might be an ideal solution ...?
If the 7000TLX will fit the wheelbase of both vehicles, any reason not to get the longer one?
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
To those that have one, how much real estate does it take up when all the way down? How far up from the floor?
EDIT: Oh, NM, I see that it's two separate units that are easily moved. So it's irrelevant.
EDIT: Oh, NM, I see that it's two separate units that are easily moved. So it's irrelevant.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have the 7k and use it with the solid truck extensions and pinch weld adapters. It's absolutely rock solid
Only problem is each side weighs 100lbs. Not fun to move around, especially on and off the wall rack
Only problem is each side weighs 100lbs. Not fun to move around, especially on and off the wall rack
brandonsmash
Well-known member
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- Sep 8, 2016
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- 214
Yes, they're separaste units. They're still fairly heavy though.
I leave mine in the down position and push them towards the center of the bay when not in use. They're low enough that I can drive my Corvette or Miata over them (not over them as if they were ramps, just straddling them) with no problems. Then when I need to use them I just pull them to the sides a bit and press the up button.
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
And everyone here that has one would feel perfectly fine rolling underneath on a creeper?
tmshort
Well-known member
For some reason despite all of the good reviews this gives me the willies as well.
tmshort
Well-known member
Anyone have any thoughts on the 5000 vs 7000 model?
For my current vehicles the 5000 would likely suffice, but wondering if having the more robust one would be worth it in case I use it for other stuff.
Is it worth the extra weight / hassle of moving it around?
For my current vehicles the 5000 would likely suffice, but wondering if having the more robust one would be worth it in case I use it for other stuff.
Is it worth the extra weight / hassle of moving it around?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes, I do. They have a safety bar on each side that you lower the lift onto. Add a jackstand if you want
I have back issues and the wall mounts for 7000 are ball busters. I have mine so when it goes down inside mount the weight drops back down and mostly on the floor. Had them up a few inches previously for floor space but they were getting too much to pick up. The only bad thing about the wall mounts , sometimes you think its easier and quickerto just get the floor jack out.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have mine hanging the same way so that I only have to lift a little, problem is that there is no great way to grab them. I wish I had the space to allow sliding them under something so they can stay at floor level
I could probably fit both, but I really only need one. I’m 48, so past the point where I prefer the creeper and low clearance for under type work. The last couple of jobs have been helping friends with brake, suspension, and maintenance work; four jackstands is doable but a PITA. My ceilings are 10’, and I don’t know how thick or strong the concrete is so I’d rather not buy something that depends on anchors. A flush in floor lift would be ideal, but I can’t swing it financially for a while.
They can lift 7000 lbs, so…
What about adding a block and tackle right above their hooks so you can lift them with mechanical advantage instead of all muscle? Would work for removing them from the hooks and putting back on the ground.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Could definitely work. I don't use them enough to justify anything elaborate and I don't find myself skipping on using them due to the weight.
I think if I was going to do something it would be to change from the hooks to something that holds them against the wall, so they don't have to be lifted off the ground at all
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yeah, way more than 1 ton
I'd expect a 1 ton truck to be close to the rating, if not over, especially a diesel
I got the 7000TL... Like the extra lift height... Got it so I could use it on my 2017 Explorer...
I've used it on my MINI, but haven't used it on the Ford yet...
Also bought the wall hangers for storage, so I wouldn't be tripping over them laying on the floor...
Makes working on the Mini a real breeze...
The heavier build on the 7000 makes them a workout lifting them up on the storage hooks...
Paid $1,615 for them on 5/2022 (not on sale) vs $1,950 reg price today, so $1,462.50 is a great deal...
I'm glad I got the QuickJacks...
I've used it on my MINI, but haven't used it on the Ford yet...
Also bought the wall hangers for storage, so I wouldn't be tripping over them laying on the floor...
Makes working on the Mini a real breeze...
The heavier build on the 7000 makes them a workout lifting them up on the storage hooks...
Paid $1,615 for them on 5/2022 (not on sale) vs $1,950 reg price today, so $1,462.50 is a great deal...
I'm glad I got the QuickJacks...
brandonsmash
Well-known member
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- Sep 8, 2016
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- 214
All the time; I just did this a couple days ago. Once the QJs are in the up position you just lower them slightly and there's a mechanical stopper that automatically engages that prevents them from lowering.
To lower the car to the floor you lift the QJs off the stopper, flip a cam so the stopper can ride over its rail, and hit the down button. It's actually quite clever and, yes, I feel totally fine underneath: The jacks aren't suspending the car on hydraulics once you lower them onto the stoppers.
If I'm using the post height extensions, I absolutely will use jack stands and just use the quick jacks to raise a truck enough to put the jack stands in. The lift extensions feel super sloppy to me and if you're working on something requiring jostling, I don't trust it.
Some jobs like installing lift and lowering kits or old drums or rotors stuck on or leaf spring hangers cAuse a lot of side to side movement and I'm not taking chances haha
Using the extra little extension is even more super sketchy. The extension pad just sits on the quick jacks and then the extra extension spacer just kind of flops in between the two pads. That's definitely a jack stand situation for me.
If working on something with just the pads then I don't use jack stands, just the locks on the quick jacks themselves are more than ok, even if you test it by bumping into car sideways pretty hard.
PCMusicGuy
Well-known member
I like my QuickJacks (pervious generation 5000 lbs model). I picked them up years ago from Costco for $900 and have gotten quite a bit of use out of them with my car. The cheap $2 harbor freight roller ball bearings placed in a particular spot on the arms with double sided tape make moving them around on the concrete so much easier.
tmshort
Well-known member
I ended up buying the 7000TLX model. Bigger is always better, right?
Hopefully it won't be too much of a pain to move around.
Hopefully it won't be too much of a pain to move around.
These are great units for oil changes, brake work, elevation for detailing and much more. I keep mine on the ground in the down position and just drive over them after centering on the garage floor. They are heavy and some hang them on wall.. but I just installed some roller balls on the bottom (+1 Music Guy, but I attached with self tapping screws) that contact the floor in the down position. Makes them easier to move around garage and under vehicle.
The first time I lifted my f150 on my 7000 I didn't get them parallel to each other and the truck fell off the lift to one side.. not real fast but just slowly went over. So I did some research and found out it's critical to have them parallel. On the pinched cars it's a piece of cake. Frame vehicles you need to pay attention. I just get the lift raised but not lifting and double check with a tape measure. Also learned that using it on the plastic floor tiles increases the risk if they are not aligned correctly but I have bare concrete so I can't verify. They are cool but not sure I would buy them again. I think you could do the same thing with Jack stands for the most part. But that scares me to! I was taught to put the tires under the car when you pull them off as a fail safe and always have but you don't have alot of space for that so I put my jack stands underneath on both ends of the lift. I don't really think twice about going under the civic or mustang but I'm a little leary of the trucks but they are tall enough that the cars are more dangerous if they were to fall. Sorry to be so long winded.
I bought them when they first came out or shortly after 5000 model, lifts my two cars fine (truck is a 1T and even if it could I wouldn't seems sketch)
I like them, I have done a full suspension and bushing swap on one car, and a full 6 month rebuild on another and it made it so much easier/safer/faster than a jack and stands. I even still use them for oil changes and brake fluid flushes and numerous other tasks.
They are not light or small (and mine were before the wall mounts) but I just collapse them and shove them against the back wall of my garage.
I like them, I have done a full suspension and bushing swap on one car, and a full 6 month rebuild on another and it made it so much easier/safer/faster than a jack and stands. I even still use them for oil changes and brake fluid flushes and numerous other tasks.
They are not light or small (and mine were before the wall mounts) but I just collapse them and shove them against the back wall of my garage.
Dragfluid
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I went to look at Amazon to see if they handled them, so I could read some reviews. A few people said that they don't go down any further once the weight of the vehicle is on the wheels.
Could anyone comment on that that has one?
Could anyone comment on that that has one?
They go down they go slower with no weight on them. I wonder if the hydronic fluid is cold would it slow it down. I've never really paid attention. I've had mine all the way up with nothing on them and I recall being the lower they got the better they lowered.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I've had no issues with mine going all the way down to the floor
If the cylinders are aired up properly they will go down flat.
Keep in mind that there is a lock feature at full and half height. A cam locks the jack after you raise fully and lower a bit. Add standard jack stands if you are worried. Personally, I feel the huge difference in surface area and construction of the QuickJacks make them even safer than some jack stands on the market.
cablebandit
Well-known member
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- Apr 20, 2008
- Messages
- 103
That would be my concern as well. I guess you could cut a spacer to sit between them to make sure they are parallel each time. While it seems nice to just hit a button and raise the vehicle, I can have all my vehicles jacked up and on jack stands in the time it would take to get these setup each time.
My initial use of the QJ was not a positive experience. As per the instructions stacking the rubber blocks to gain a few inches in lift did not end well with one of the QJ slipping under the vehicle after the vehicle was raised. This event occurred as I contemplated whether a jack stand would be prudent before going under the vehicle. Two floor jacks on one side was needed to lift one side of the vehicle to free the QJ. Either the QJ slipped on the concrete floor or the stacked rubber blocks moved or a combination effect. Costco (no longer sells the QJ ) recommended returning the QJ in case the frame was twisted. I had no further issues with the QJ to raise the vehicle using a single rubber block but I kept a jack stand with me while under the vehicle. IMO the QJ lifts and locks reliably but I’d prefer some type of adjustable bar between the two sides to prevent one or both of the sides from movement. Using any lift extensions from QJ would not be my preference.
Would not recommend stacking the blocks despite any instruction. There are extenders for trucks and lifted vehicles. Proper use and positioning of QJ's is essential. Raise to level of frame to make sure correct contact and stability. Level floor/driveway surface is also essential.